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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
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31
« on: May 06, 2026, 09:24:38 PM »
It may be toast. If it's getting power and not giving any out to the field coil.
If it were me I would try to find a used original. As Bryanj says they're pretty robust mechanical devices. Usual problems are oxidised contacts if they haven't been used for a long time. There is a rubber seal around the cover so moisture shouldn't have an easy way in. Downside for you if you go that route will be needing a separate rectifier as well.
I have a mistrust of no-name electronic devices from the far east but everyone is different.
Regards
Dave
32
« on: May 06, 2026, 07:40:58 PM »
Nothing much bonds to silicone apart from silicone. Silicone doesn't have much structural strength either.
The original ht leads look like pvc or similar thermoplastic with a rubber jacket.
Getting resins to bond with other materials is shrouded in mystery. A lot of the primers used in industry are obviously proprietary. In critical applications we sometimes had no option but to buy the molding kits with all the needed resins and primers. Without the right resin and compatible primers the bond would usually fail, usually when in deep water. We were bonding polyester and polyeurothane sheathed cables to stainless using a rubber compound. For less critical applications ie
Prototyping cable harnesses epoxy seemed to bond with most stuff. Low energy plastics were the worst, polythene or polypropylene.
Regards
Dave
33
« on: May 06, 2026, 07:13:56 PM »
The lightest smear of red rubber grease gives enough stiction to hold them in place or a small dab if super glue at each bend also works.
Thanks Julie. I had some stiff silicone 0 ring lube and that held them down in the grooves long enough. Dave
34
« on: May 06, 2026, 02:46:18 PM »
I have slitting saw, but at the moment I'm only set up to mount it on an arbour between centers and used to cut hexagon on the end of round bar held in the tool post. I might need someway to get up/down movement. I could just cut the slot to limited depth which would be curved same as the saw radius and then just flatten out the slot with small file.
Dave.
35
« on: May 06, 2026, 11:33:22 AM »
The problem with them screws is that there is very little contact area between the screw head and the carb body, essentially a ring 0.2 mm around the screw head making contact and no friction as you tighten them which in the wrong hands could easily result in stripped threads or them working loose.
A heads up for anyone else thinking of buying these, check that the head diameter 12mm. I didn't loose much with these ay £3.50 for 2 , I just added a couple onto an existing order get above the free postage threshold.
NRP have the Keyster ones back in stock now at just over a fiver each. Might have to bite the bullet. I'll hold off for now until I have sorted through all the spare brassware to see what else I might need.
Does anyone have any good tips for cutting neat screw slots, I have seen something somewhere about folk grinding the set off a hacksaw blade to get the right thickness? Machining the threads and holes be easy enough and I have enough round brass bar laying around.
Regards
Dave
36
« on: May 05, 2026, 07:43:42 PM »
Drain screws from AliExpress
O ring seat 9 mm, screw head 9.4mm
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Might work if there's nothing else but doesn't look right. Back to plan b for these.
Regards
Dave
37
« on: May 05, 2026, 07:27:20 PM »
63 x 1.8 seems to fit ok
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Regards
Dave
38
« on: May 05, 2026, 12:28:56 PM »
I used a lot of electrolube black epoxy potting compound at work for potting up underwater cable splices and connector to cable terminations. Comes as a split pouch where you pull off a crimp and mix the contents of the two sections. No mess. It's a one shot deal though, you have to use it or bin it. One trick was to put it in the fridge to extend the pot life a little.
Stays runny for about half hour and rock hard by the next morning.
I thing the smallest we used was RD Pro 50 g which was handy for small jobs.
Dave.
39
« on: May 04, 2026, 09:04:17 PM »
Does that mean the yellow 400f should have yellow ht leads to signal it's elevated status?😄
Dave
40
« on: May 04, 2026, 06:05:56 PM »
Mine is red and an indicated 110 was regularly achievable in the 80s with my girlfriend on the bach. It was dead flat where we lived, long straight roads and no traffic.
Not sure if I would be brave enough now. Too many other idiots on the road.
The local bobby only had a hilman advenger so the best he could do was tell my dad in the pub on a Friday darts night.
That was more of a deterrent than being brought before the magistrate.
Dave
41
« on: May 04, 2026, 04:12:45 PM »
Just be careful if you're using standard points. I had a set of coils off a scrap 400, they looked the same but had detachable ht leads and a much lower resistance. They ran fine but caused the points to get pitted quite quickly. Probably for a newer bike with electronic ignition or a ballast resistor.
Dave.
42
« on: May 04, 2026, 02:18:32 PM »
Black wire is switched 12v that supplies 12v everywhere when the ignition switch on
With the regulator connected up, ignition on you should be seeing battery voltage on both black and white wires. IE full 12v going out to the field coil.
With all wires disconnected from the regulator you should have continuity between the spade terminals on the reg for black and white wires.
From the black wire you should have continuity to any other black wire on the bike even with even with gnition off.
Are you missing 12v from anywhere else? Inside the wiring harness where the black wires are joined is by a soldered connection so if you have lost 12v at the regulator I would expect it to be missing somewhere else, or the evidence is pointing the individual wire and spade connector feeding the reg.
With your spanner close to the coil give the black connector a wiggle with ignition on.
Dave.
43
« on: May 03, 2026, 11:46:17 AM »
The reg does not switch at revs but at a prest voltage, as the generator output is based on both the field coil power input AND the revs it means that the reg allows charging till the battery voltage hits a specific level, its all in the pages i attached
I was trying to simplify things a little, the transition voltage where the resistor is switched in series with the field coil should be in the manual. At 15v the contact does short the field coil feed, now through the resistor to ground. Once the voltage drops below 15 the contact opens again. This off/on happens very fast and essentially modulates the feed to the Field coil to keep the voltage under 15v. Dave.
44
« on: May 02, 2026, 11:54:30 PM »
I think you have an electromechanical gremlin that stoped the engine and starter didnt work
Still in gear and clutch lever not pulled all the way in. We have probably all done it much to the annoyance of cars behind us. Dave
45
« on: May 02, 2026, 11:33:55 PM »
If the field coil is energised it should attract a metal spanner if you hold it close to the honda logo on the alternator cover with just the main switch on
If that doesn't happen it narrows down which connections it might be.
Charging at low revs the field coil is fed the full 12v from the regulator. As the revs go higher a contact opens and the field coil is fed from a wire wound resistor under the metal back cover on the regulator. So if your getting little or no charge at lo revs that suddenly bursts into life as the revs increase, there may be a grubby contact in the regulator. At 15v another contact shorts out the feed to the field coil.
The shop manual downloadable from Ash's Dropbox might help regarding what revs the regulator should switch over.
As mentioned in a previous post , spraying the connectors with wd40 or duck oil followed by plugging unplugging a few times to wipe the contacts might work if the connectors are grubby. There is also the 3 spade connectors that go to the regulator.
Regards
Dave
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