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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
1
« on: January 06, 2026, 05:22:17 PM »
It's easy enough to test the diode if you [ Guests cannot view attachments ] have a multimeter of failing that , a battery, small bulb and some wire. A pilot light bulb or similar would do.
Just connect up the bulb to the battery and confirm that the bulb is good. Connect the diode in series with the bulb and test again. Connect the diode opposite way round test again.
Bulb lights up both ways - diode shorted
Bulb doesn't light either way - diode open circuit
Bulb lights up one way and not the other - correct
I would be surprised if it has failed, they're pretty reliable devices unless they suffer abuse through over voltage or excess current.
If it the same as mine , the diode symbol is marked in the molding of the plastic.
Regards
Dave
2
« on: January 04, 2026, 02:35:42 PM »
Nothing in Peterborough either. We seem to be in a dead spot between the Midlands an the east coast.
Shorts and t shirt weather compared to where my daughter lives in central Finland, -16 there at the moment.
Regards
Dave
3
« on: January 03, 2026, 11:59:23 AM »
Most bits cleaned, rust removed. This is the state I would have them before sending off to the platers or plating myself. Flash rusting shouldn't be a concern so long as some residual plate remains. That's the beauty of this clean up method, it removes rust but leaves zinc plate in place.
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Regards
Dave
4
« on: January 03, 2026, 11:54:44 AM »
It's also possible that the brushes in the starter motor are stuck in their slots, they wear down over time resulting in less spring pressure and add in a bit of carbon dust gumming up the slides.
A jump lead from the battery +ve to the starter motor terminal( need the sprocket cover off to access) should make the motor spin. Alternatively a thick screwdriver across the starter solenoid terminals should make it spin up.
However if this was the case you would still hear a click from the solenoid when you press the start button but no starter motor.
So
If the solenoid clicks when you press the button - check as above
If the starter solenoid doesn't click - check wiring and switches, that includes all the bullet connectors in circuit, IE pull apart connectors , squirt of WD40 then re connect and disconnect a couple of times to wipe the contact.
My first port of call though would be to drown the handlebar switches in WD40 while exercising them, do it a few times, mopping up with a tissue in between. This means splitting the two halves of the switche gear to get at them. The starter button contacts can get quite gunked up with all the lube from the throttle cable attracting muck.
Regards
Dave
5
« on: January 03, 2026, 09:56:51 AM »
Jury is still out on plating, depends if I can get a worthwhile batch together to send them out. Also there's a lot of small bits to loose. If I do them myself, I need to refine the brighteners in my tank to get a level finish, and probably try out an alkaline bath for better throwing power to get into all the nooks and crannies.
Regards
Dave
6
« on: December 30, 2025, 06:03:33 PM »
The original retainer rings for the felt seals weren't that great and it was easier to make some new one out of stainless.
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I will still try to re plate some of the old ones but I suspect that once they have been cleaned and pickled, there won't be much left of them.
Lots of. De rusting and electrolytic cleaning to do. Sodium carbonate, dash of oven cleaner and washing up liquid. It's a slow process but saves on a lot of scrubbing.
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Regards
Dave.
7
« on: December 29, 2025, 08:28:46 PM »
You have to carefull with Chinese suppliers, some, not all give OD and CS which is not the
convention in the UK
So taking 6.5 od -2 x 1.2cs gives 4.1 X 1.2 (ID x CS)
Regards
Dave
8
« on: December 29, 2025, 07:08:27 PM »
Time to separate the two halves of the throttle cable rotor. I learned from previous experience that acids and plating solution can get trapped between the two halves resulting in corrosion creeping out the cracks.
I center punched each rivet and drilled out using a center drill. Any residual around the hole can be sliced off with a sharp blade and the remaining rivet on the other side can simply be pressed out.
A center drill with a tip just under 3mm is an ideal size.
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9
« on: December 25, 2025, 07:41:48 PM »
Happy Christmas all.
It's not over yet, there's half a turkey to eat for tomorrow and a huge chocolate log that had today as the use by date. Had a big lump instead of Christmas pud and it looks like I'll be having it for supper as well.
Dave.
10
« on: December 24, 2025, 05:48:36 PM »
I have been digging through my boxes of bits and found enough bits to put together a set of carbs.
I'll post what ever I get up to on this thread as I go.
The first job was to refurb the frame and link rod that was stuck fast. Loads of soaking in various fluids and wiggling to get some movement. Made up a jig to drill out the pin so that the link rod could be extracted. Then drill out the hole to 4.4 mm and tap M5.
The jig keeps the drill centered. Drilling out a steel pin from aluminium can result in the drill wandering off centrer.
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Stepped screw to lock in the link rod.
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Remove the felt seals and retainer
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Link rod. This is after 2 days in my electrolytic cleaning bath to de-rust an clean.A bit scabby where the throttle linkage is attached bit at least the bit that engages with the bushes has survived. I'll probably just brush plate this portion.
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Regards
Dave
11
« on: December 23, 2025, 09:42:20 AM »
Found these, 6.5OD x 1.2CS. in viton.
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They are a nice fit.
Regards and seasonal greetings
Dave
12
« on: December 20, 2025, 06:19:26 PM »
Yes the felts, 4 of them are on the rod each one capped off with a small retainer ring..
They are easy enough to make if you have a set of cork borers and a bit of wool felt.
Regards
Dave
13
« on: December 20, 2025, 04:55:59 PM »
I prefer to keep all my fingers.
I managed to find the jig that I used last time, just screw in, and machine it flush with the jig and leave 1.5mm by 2 dia poking out.
The hard bit seems to be digging out the rock hard felt dust seals and corresponding retainers. Been soaking in duck oil for 2 weeks and no sign of them softening.
At least the bushes didn't get wrecked this time.
The last time I did a set of carbs they came out in one piece, soak/wash in paraffin, dry and they were reusable.
Regards
Dave
14
« on: December 20, 2025, 02:33:15 PM »
Yes all the best to all.
Had two crappy weeks here.
Just completed two weeks of jury service and having to travel alongside the great unwashed on public transport I had/ still have a snotty head cold. Still coughing up 'pork pie jelly' and nose running like a tap. First time I've ventured into the garage for two weeks today. On top of all of that I have had the wife suffering random panic attacks that can last some time and the cure seems just as bad as the illness at this stage due to side effects of the meds. Been a juggling act with family to make sure she wasn't left home alone for a whole day.
Just a simple bit of machining to make a stepped screw to locate the carbs link rod is a struggle. But there's only so much telly you can stare at, have to do something.
Regards
Dave
15
« on: December 14, 2025, 06:00:48 PM »
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Will these do? found on Aliexpress
Dave
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