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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
1
« on: May 18, 2026, 07:41:22 PM »
It makes it easier to smear some light oil on the outer surface of the bearing, place it in a poly bag and then into the freezer for a while. Ones that I have done before, I just warmed up the hub with one of those hot air guns that you strip paint with on the mid setting.
You have to make sure that the inner spacer stays aligned otherwise the bearing doesn't seat square onto it effectively making the bearing spacing larger than needed.
Regards
Dave
2
« on: May 15, 2026, 04:53:42 PM »
I am opening this page ok with Firefox on android phone
Could be a temporary glitch in the server that issues the certificate. The certificate is valid up to
July 1st.
Regards
Dave
3
« on: May 14, 2026, 11:41:46 AM »
I have a big flat blade screwdriver intended for electricians that usually gives a snug fit. The trick is not to overtighten them in the first place.
But you're right if some monkey uses a too small too thin driver the slots get chewed.
4
« on: May 13, 2026, 02:04:19 PM »
That looks just great Dave! Have you tried it in the carb float bowl?
Short answer - doesn't fit Long answer - the old knackered carbon steel die I found lying around is giving me an oversized thread. This was a run through to make sure I had the necessary tooling and holders. I'm sure with a decent die and a regrind of the lathe tool to give a smoother finish on the underside of the screw head it will be ok. Regards Dave
5
« on: May 12, 2026, 08:06:22 PM »
You need to examine the top oraface of those emulsion tubes to see if corrosion or wear has enlarged the hole. If it has look forward to some black spark plugs. For the needles, can you feel the machining marks with your thumb nail or are they well polished.
What about the float valves, is there noticeable ridge worn on the conical tip.
The jets should be ok so long as you don't open them up by poking steel wire through them.
Main jets I put string through and rub them up/down the taught string.
Pilot jet - copper wire out of mains cable flex.
Regards
Dave
6
« on: May 12, 2026, 05:49:34 PM »
I decided to have a go making the drain screws and had a practice run this morning. Here's what came out of the garage.
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The OEM screw is the tarnished one with screwdriver marks in the slot.
A little refining of methodology and it should be doable. The first mistake was in cutting the screws slot and then facing off the screw. It caused the tool to jump a bit. Second was removing one thread too many closest to the screw head.
The 1 mm drill bit was a bit blunt after using it on fibre glass PCB material so I picked up a couple of new ones this morning.
Regards
Dave
7
« on: May 11, 2026, 06:45:54 PM »
8
« on: May 10, 2026, 04:19:12 PM »
What are folk using these days?
When I was on a budget I used to use boot polish which looked ok for a short while but some folk are saying it's not good for the tyre. Can't see it being any worse than all the chain lube that ends up on the back tyre?
Don't want anything very shiny, just black and clean.
Regards
Dave
9
« on: May 10, 2026, 11:47:44 AM »
It used to be called cylinder black that I used on the barrel of my fizzie. Guess there's a modern equivalent around somewhere. Not sure what the finish would be like though as it's intended for crusty/gnarly cast iron barrels.
Or have a look on frost, they carry a wide range of stuff not found in the usual sheds.
Regards
Dave.
10
« on: May 07, 2026, 06:24:57 PM »
Mine won't even pop off with any throttle when starting it on full choke and once running it needs about 5 seconds before you dare to touch the throttle. Bikes do have their own personality I guess. It usually fires up 3rd kick from cold most times so I'm not too worried.
A new battery is still on the job list.
Regards
Dave
11
« on: May 07, 2026, 03:46:05 PM »
Welcome.
One thing I always do I turn off the fuel tap about a mile from home. The next time you come to start it, there's a fresh glug of fuel into the carbs that seems to help a bit. These old bikes do loose a bit of goodness from fuel sitting in carbs due to evaporation if they're stood for a while.
The other thing to check with cold start woes is the choke flaps fully closing when required. For fast idle when cold, the choke lever should also lift the throttles by a very small amount and you need the choke lever at least quarter setting to hold a fast idle for half a minute then ease it off as it warms up and the idle increases.
Don't touch the throttle when on full choke it won't help.
Regards
Dave
12
« on: May 06, 2026, 09:24:38 PM »
It may be toast. If it's getting power and not giving any out to the field coil.
If it were me I would try to find a used original. As Bryanj says they're pretty robust mechanical devices. Usual problems are oxidised contacts if they haven't been used for a long time. There is a rubber seal around the cover so moisture shouldn't have an easy way in. Downside for you if you go that route will be needing a separate rectifier as well.
I have a mistrust of no-name electronic devices from the far east but everyone is different.
Regards
Dave
13
« on: May 06, 2026, 07:40:58 PM »
Nothing much bonds to silicone apart from silicone. Silicone doesn't have much structural strength either.
The original ht leads look like pvc or similar thermoplastic with a rubber jacket.
Getting resins to bond with other materials is shrouded in mystery. A lot of the primers used in industry are obviously proprietary. In critical applications we sometimes had no option but to buy the molding kits with all the needed resins and primers. Without the right resin and compatible primers the bond would usually fail, usually when in deep water. We were bonding polyester and polyeurothane sheathed cables to stainless using a rubber compound. For less critical applications ie
Prototyping cable harnesses epoxy seemed to bond with most stuff. Low energy plastics were the worst, polythene or polypropylene.
Regards
Dave
14
« on: May 06, 2026, 07:13:56 PM »
The lightest smear of red rubber grease gives enough stiction to hold them in place or a small dab if super glue at each bend also works.
Thanks Julie. I had some stiff silicone 0 ring lube and that held them down in the grooves long enough. Dave
15
« on: May 06, 2026, 02:46:18 PM »
I have slitting saw, but at the moment I'm only set up to mount it on an arbour between centers and used to cut hexagon on the end of round bar held in the tool post. I might need someway to get up/down movement. I could just cut the slot to limited depth which would be curved same as the saw radius and then just flatten out the slot with small file.
Dave.
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