This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: Today at 03:29:02 PM »
Easy Start----- YEUK!!-- The work of the devil. The knocking noises I've heard over the years from enthusiastic use.
Its just basic testing to gauge effect. What it can do is show there's impaired or low flow from idle fuel circuit that's supposed to be supplying at this juncture. Improvement with "assistance" would indicate that the idle jet circuit needs further inspection ...... which no-one wants to do on these  The covered airbox test too, if there's notable improvement then again it suggests that the increase in inlet vacuum is more effective in pulling fuel up through the jets, initially.
2
« on: Today at 02:46:56 PM »
A couple of things to try in helping analysis and find out effect.
1) spray E-Z-start into airbox prior to cranking and see if there's any change to how it initially fires when cold.
2) cover airbox entry (thick rag or similar) and crank with kill switch off, just for a few 5 second bursts, then remove rag, switch on and try to start. Again, to observe if there's any immediate change in willingness to fire when cold etc.
3
« on: Today at 07:58:09 AM »
Thanks Ted! If this is all correct then I need to knock the bearing under the retainer inward a bit more, but can't because it needs the other bearing and the spacer to move at the same time.
Yes, that's correct in your assessment of the brake side bearing would have to move as it's location is dependent on the spacer keeping distance to sprocket side bearing. The sprocket/drive side bearing is tbe reference/datum on these rear wheel. It, when located against the shoulder/rebate in the hub, will set the wheel alignment in the frame, ultimately to make it bolt in centrally located. The brake side bearing is "slaved" off that position by the spacer distance as it has no effective rebate. It "floats" in other words, with any assembly discrepancy taken out when the spindle nut is torqued to spec on installation.
4
« on: May 15, 2026, 08:57:24 AM »
Were you aware that there is a Honda special tool for the clutch adjuster on the 500-4 Nige. The big slotted thing in the drive chain cover. Might also fit the drain screws, never tried it but seem to recall it’s a multi bladed tool
I was much more involved with the 750s Ken, and so not familiar with that tool. Sounds like it could be good for this though. My own method is a great big woodworking screwdriver that my dad used to drive in big brass hinge screws by hand (before electric tools were invented  )not sure, but either Stanley or Marple brand, the type with see through yellow resin handles for properly leaning into the job in door hanging.
5
« on: May 14, 2026, 09:37:04 AM »
Nice aesthetic in that though, which will make a good replacement when small issues, mentioned above, are resolved.
Does anyone else find that you need a unusually large flat blade screwdriver to engage them properly, and not just twist them in middle of slot that leads to "camming" out along with that subsequent mushing of the slot ?
Also need one with very good condition "grind" and flat end to let it engage fully and deep into slot.
6
« on: May 08, 2026, 04:02:24 PM »
Yes agree with your thoughts Ken, it should show with wet feet though out through the overflow tubes, if they are letting by. Interesting to hear if there's any improvement after the checks done and work on carbs.
7
« on: May 08, 2026, 02:04:02 PM »
If float valves (controlling fill from tank) are a OK, then it shouldn't matter how long the tap is left on prior to start.
As most things are checked, and carbs cleaned too, then if it persists a check of compression psi would be helpful in establishing whether anything is out of range there.
8
« on: May 08, 2026, 10:01:03 AM »
Its now fairly routine in bigger MTB forks to do tbe same in packing the preload to get ride height correct.
They're called "tokens" in there, and proprietary hard plastic that can be clicked together in addition for gaining more distance. There's general use of fork stanchion @ 40mm diameter too for racing purposes.
Some also use internal spacer that screws inside the spring coil to change the rate of spring by making section of coil incompressible, gives effectively a shorter wire length, which lifts the spring poundage without changing the spring.
Looks here that maybe previous owner was in need of jacking the front generally with the longer spring + spacers fitted.
9
« on: May 07, 2026, 08:17:43 AM »
Thats not a "later" one its an aftermarket one, they can be very unreliable and it only take a fraction of a second of reversed polarity to wreck them
It's not from SOHC F2 but later twin cam 750 (not the 70s replacement for SOHC motor either) that was original fit "OEM" and Japanese supplied component.
10
« on: May 06, 2026, 10:35:01 PM »
Perhaps one from a later Honda https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/277950477570 combined unit from OEM supply, would need individual "adopted" loom end into existing SOHC plug.
11
« on: May 06, 2026, 12:31:41 PM »
The problem with them screws is that there is very little contact area between the screw head and the carb body, essentially a ring 0.2 mm around the screw head making contact and no friction as you tighten them which in the wrong hands could easily result in stripped threads or them working loose.
A heads up for anyone else thinking of buying these, check that the head diameter 12mm. I didn't loose much with these ay £3.50 for 2 , I just added a couple onto an existing order get above the free postage threshold.
NRP have the Keyster ones back in stock now at just over a fiver each. Might have to bite the bullet. I'll hold off for now until I have sorted through all the spare brassware to see what else I might need.
Does anyone have any good tips for cutting neat screw slots, I have seen something somewhere about folk grinding the set off a hacksaw blade to get the right thickness? Machining the threads and holes be easy enough and I have enough round brass bar laying around.
Regards
Dave
Something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/336154261880 available in 0.5mm thickness, but would need rudimentary mount to drill etc and some method of holding brass bar and moving across this, thinking lathe cross slide and dremel ? A woodworking mortise hand saw will cut brass more accurately than trying to hold a hacksaw blade straight enough, could be utilised.
12
« on: May 05, 2026, 07:28:27 AM »
There are two small ports on my F1 front master cylinder that allow the brake fluid to enter the piston bore.
The little tiny one appears to be blocked.
I've tried poking it with a sewing needle etc, but so far no luck.
Thinking about drilling it now, but unsure of what size to drill.
Anyone know ?
I'm thinking too big a hole is going to have a bad effect on the master cylinder.
A dressmakers Pin is usually thinner than a needle and with less taper from tip into shank, they often pass through smaller holes but helpful with pliers to hold them ordinarily such that you can gently wiggle them.
13
« on: May 05, 2026, 07:16:17 AM »
The bore size effect controls different aspect, the one nearest to line output has to be fully closed to build line pressure. With an increase above std, that would delay closing and increase lever travel before caliper "activation" but once past that, the master seal would operate the same as system to line is fully isolated from reservoir.
You can get 0.3mm pcb hand drill bits that should be under that size, but check initially to see if it's OK.
Have you got the mastercylinder apart, or trying to clear in situ ?
14
« on: May 04, 2026, 12:53:39 PM »
Thanks Tricky Mick for the seat info. I managed to undo the lock and open the seat. The air Filter looks brand new, so I will have to investigate further.
If the weather holds today I will try some further tests. I have compared the speedo with a Sat-Nav and they are within 2 mph of each other.
Mine is a Red bike, but I have several litres of JCB Yellow Paint, if all else fails. . . !
Something that may need double checking, some years ago I had a honda that had stood for a while, that air filter looked new, but just would not flow properly, giving rich mixture and "capped" power output. Whether it had been damp and possibly compromised, or something else that I couldn't readily explain, the result was clear and when swapped it was fine. Tenuous link, but a possibility to consider.
15
« on: May 04, 2026, 12:19:56 PM »
I noticed yesterday that no 2 exhaust pipe warmed up a little slower than the test although it seemed to start OK so I believe the cable / plug on no 2 is occasionally breaking down.
The leads on all plugs are a bit short like they have been shorted a number of times so time for new hardware .
That rings alarm bells for a poor running cylinder. Given that your other investigations have not given anything confirmed as probable cause, that partially missing cylinder needs investigating for both ignition and idle circuit fuel supply. If you have a borescope it would be worthwhile looking in there to see if there's anything untoward. The cheap type for phone, with front & side facing camera are really good value to get decent inspection. Hope you have a good holiday, anywhere interesting ?
|
Show Posts