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Messages - Trigger
16
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:13:24 AM »
I have used OKE brake DOT 5 on all my bikes for a few years now and it is great 
17
« on: October 12, 2023, 07:07:39 AM »
Hi everyone,
More updates on the bike,
My V5 arrived last week only a few days after the inspection which was a nice surprise. So it’s now insured and ready for the road.
I took the bike out on Saturday for its first ride out, got a few miles down the road and started getting issues with misfiring and bogging down, which got worse the further I went.
I few things I have found is the charging system was a bit weak, but I’m getting good power from the stator, I’ve replaced the rectifier for a modern one which improved it slightly, but the thing that made the most difference was permanently wiring in the ‘night time coil, by connecting the wires in the headlight bucket, yellow wire into the white with yellow stripe. Thanks to Ash for that suggestion.
I now get a steady 13V at idle which is good.
But the bike was still running rough and misfiring on one cylinder (left side) so tonight I removed the point cover and ran the bike and the left side point contact is sparking continuously while the righ side had no sparking at all, so I think it’s time for a new condenser. Fingers crossed that sorts out the last of the running problems,
I checked the point the other day for sparking and could see nothing, got in the shed tonight where it’s darker and it was obvious straight away.
Had the same problem with my 750K6 at the weekend Ben. Misfiring and bogging down and it was a condenser. It is the first time i have had a condenser go down on me so, i was stumped what the problem was at first. The K6 is 46000 miles plus and it still has the same old points and condensers from when it left the factory. The bike would run and rev up to on the bench but, out on the road under load it would bog straight away.
18
« on: October 01, 2023, 10:41:28 AM »
On a new tube the first nut is tight and the second nut is just threaded on. This indicates that one nut on the inside and one on the outside. Also on some new tubes the first nut has a blob of thread lock on the thread [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
19
« on: September 30, 2023, 11:12:56 PM »
The original fitting was a 5mm thin nut on the inside with a thumb nut with a recess as in picture. Just had look at a new inner tube and the nuts are 4mm thick and a standard thin wall spanner is 4.5mm thick so, you would have to find a thinner spanner to lock the nuts together [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
20
« on: September 30, 2023, 06:49:04 PM »
one inside and one out
21
« on: September 30, 2023, 03:11:19 PM »
Get it blasted and powder coated black. They were black on the later 550's
22
« on: September 30, 2023, 05:25:01 AM »
The 400 has lot of casing marks on the engine and you will not know if they are marks or cracks until the engine is totally cleaned up and assessed. If they are cracks they are easy to alloy weld repair. I can't remember the members name but he lived in Peterborough who was in a panic with his 400 engine and thought it was cracked. After i had a good look at his cases, it was just casting marks. Looks like something has got into that centre crank pin to make that deep score
23
« on: September 29, 2023, 06:24:50 PM »
Delkevic exhausts should come with a spring puller in the kit
24
« on: September 12, 2023, 06:17:29 PM »
Yes, back to standard spec. And you have to do all the rods the same to keep the weight right
25
« on: September 12, 2023, 06:00:24 PM »
They just push in Phil on the flange. Were original some sort of brass which are hard to get hold of theses days. To get out without damage with a small blade under the flange and as you say wiggle
26
« on: September 12, 2023, 02:30:05 PM »
If i have had any good spokes that were not pitted. I would send them for plating in BZP with a clear coat and many of them come back like new I would also have the nipples done to the original passivate yellow that look like gold .
27
« on: September 12, 2023, 02:25:20 PM »
Not sure what is meant by reclaiming a con rod Graham?
I think the yanks call it resizing but, i have always known it as reclaiming. I use a Sunnen machine
28
« on: September 12, 2023, 10:45:26 AM »
I have had loads of rods that needed re claiming, which you can not see that they are out with the human eye over the years and quite a few twisted rods even on SOHC's. As for the price of the correct measuring equipment it can be very expensive and take a lot of experience to use correctly.
29
« on: September 12, 2023, 09:11:33 AM »
It is not worth any member going out and buying the correct measuring equipment for 1 or 2 engines. I have lost count on how many members i have had in my workshop asking, if i could measure up everything so they know it is correct. And some i have found that they had at least one rod that was slightly oval. That would of all ended in tears if they had used it.
30
« on: September 12, 2023, 08:28:16 AM »
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