Honda-SOHC

There are 2 ht leads coming out of each coil. 1-4 and 2-3 usually. Now you get a 1m length of ht lead. Do the first connection to say the number 1 lead. You’d normally measure how much of the length you’d need and cut the lead to this length with maybe a bit extra, just in case. Now you’d do the other one, number 4. Again after attaching it you’d measure and cut. The problem being if you get it wrong and you cut it too short you’re going to have to redo that lead. My idea was to do the first connection and then go right to the other end of the 1m lead and use that to connect to number 4. So you’re left with a lead going from number 1 port to number 4 port. Only after you have fitted the coil in place and routed the wires as you want them do you do the cut. One lead is always longer than the other so there is no chance of getting it wrong. Leave each lead a few inches long so you can cut and trim a little as time goes by. It wastes a little of the lead but that’s better than risking cutting too short.

Oh dear, what have I started. 😀😀

As for being up early, in fact I hadn’t even gone to sleep yet, my body clock is all messed up since I got ill last year.

If it was the OE manufacturer Ted you’d imagine they’d still have the original specs to hand, if so why are the wires fitted using flat spade connectors instead of the original bullet connectors? Why no manufacturers stamp on the body like the OE ones? Why no cylinder numbers or even the leads cut to the right length?

To me it sounds like the typical pile of BS that DS spout in order to get sales. They still make a profit even if it’s returned.

Not wanting to sound defeatist here Ken but just because it comes from DS doesn't mean it's perfect for your requirements. Lots of reports on the forum of DS stuff being either wrong or poor quality.

Your initial idea was a much better one IMO, the original Honda coils are almost bullet proof, the Achilles heel being the leads of course. The Ash fix cures that problem and should be good for many years and then can be done again if it ever needs it. Perfect fit, correct connectors etc. Ok it's more work but it's cheaper and better in the end.

Plus if your a bit odd like me you can substitute the leads for another colour. My CB1300 has red leads for instance and I much prefer the look of those so I've done a set of 500/550 coils with red leads, along with a red silicon outer sheath like the OE leads and the numbers on the leads. The old numbers slide off the old leads with a little care so can be reused.

The 500 has both earth and feed Bryan. The earth is riveted to the mount on the rear and you can easily miss it being there. The 550f had them attached to the bulb mount screw, a much better system.

Fully comprehensive is the right cover Ted😀😀

Gunk is a black thinnish liquid that dissolves oil/grease/tar. You brush it on/in and then rinse off with water. It goes milky coloured when water hits it. Extremely effective degreaser imo. Very old school.

Fair play to you Mick for sticking with it. Sometimes things can just elude you until you finally have an epiphany and it all slots into place.

Let me see if I can cause that. The adjusting screw is threaded into the slider and locked into position by the locknut. So the spring can only force it back as far as the screw allows. IF it wasn’t threaded then you’d be correct and it would indeed cause some brake pad drag.

The piston pad is self adjusting, in that it will allow the pad to slide out further as the pad wears, evidenced by the fact the piston needs to be pushed back into the housing when you fit new pads which will of course be so much thicker they’ll cause severe drag or even bind the wheel solid. The most gap between the piston pad and the disc is only ever a few thou if it’s working correctly. Hence minimal travel on the brake lever. You apply the lever, that causes the pad to travel out, and yes you are 100% correct, the piston seal distorts as it does so. When the piston pad touches the disc then as you apply more pressure the arm is forced to move and the back pad starts to touch. If it’s out of adjustment then you find the lever has to travel further to compensate. When you release the pressure, the spring on the adjusting screw forces the arm away from the disc, causing the rear pad to disengage. It will go back as far as the screw allows it to and no further. By this time the piston pad is also being retracted by the force of the seal distortion, it’s a really small movement and is just enough to allow the pad to clear the disc surface. You may still hear some pad drag on the surface however as even a modern caliper does that sometimes, I can hear my 4 pot calipers allowing it as a sort of hiss as the pad slides across the drillings on the disc.


I hope that helps you.