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Messages - Orcade-Ian
1
« on: June 01, 2026, 01:07:36 PM »
Yes, the waiting bit is very important with aerosol paint - it's far too thin to do the job straight after spraying into the cup. Sometimes takes a few hours to thicken up to a point where it's useable. Body shop paint straight from a tin is usually ok to use 'as is'. Hope you get a good result - like many of our jobs, patience is key. Try to do what sign-writers do too - have something to rest your hand on while applying the paint, rather than aiming in mid-air.
Ian
2
« on: June 01, 2026, 09:26:09 AM »
I never use a paint brush on tiny marks - I never seem to find one fine enough. I use a piece of copper wire (stripped from 1mm twin&earth) Depending on the size of the fault, I might use the wire with a clean cut end or for something larger, a chisel shaped end after squeezing with side-cutters.
Like you, I spray into an aerosol can lid and leave for while for some of the accelerant to disappear. I then 'dot' the paint into the defect using the wire dipped into the paint. This might have to be done over several applications until the defect is filled. I aim to get a slightly 'proud' surface and when completely dry the excess can be removed with a new body shop type backed razor blade held nearly parallel to the surface. A quick rub with Farecla compound and then polish - they take some seeing by anyone other than you.
Ian
3
« on: May 27, 2026, 07:18:11 PM »
Stokie,
I have a US spec 350/4 and a UK 400/4, the bars are the same diameter but the clamping is different - 2 separate clamps on knurled areas on the 400 but a single clamp with idiot lights on the 350. Can't remember if the bars are knurled on the 350 but imagine they would be.
The riding position on the 350 is far more relaxed for an old bugger like me but it's also helped with the footrests being further forward than the 400. Cables and upper brake pipe flexy might need modding as Bryan says but the 350 bits should fit.
Ian
4
« on: May 24, 2026, 08:29:43 AM »
Don't worry Ted, the price of your oil (and road fuel/heating oil) will soon come down now that the Very Reverend Donald has sorted the mess out.
As you say - badge (bottle)engineering!
Ian
Forgot to add :
BP Chemicals in Saltend Hull (where my then girlfriend worked in the 70's) used to buy 5 gallon 'Robbican' drums of 20/50 Orobis oil, which was the same stuff that was branded as 'BP Visco Static' but the Orobis was a fraction of the 'Genuine' stuff.
5
« on: May 19, 2026, 09:35:49 PM »
After 20 years living in Orkney, there's no way I would want to return to what now passes as civilisation - no, I'll stay put until I get me wooden overcoat! The Highlands of Scotland are on our doorstep - after a 90 min ferry ride of course. We're having a short break with friends from 'Ull in Fort William just now.
Ian
6
« on: May 18, 2026, 08:22:29 PM »
Having been born in Hull, the fishing capital of the civilised World and of advancing years, white sea-boot socks and boots just like yours were all we ever wore - thanks for the memory - bike looks great too!
Ian
7
« on: May 18, 2026, 01:41:26 PM »
Skoti,
Just laughing to myself about your Daytonas being waterproof! I had a pair of Meindl walking boots some years back and they accidentally got left outside on a walking holiday and it rained like hell during the night. They were definitely waterproof as when they were full with water, none leaked out!
Ian
8
« on: May 17, 2026, 04:32:47 PM »
"We're about 12 miles from Krumlov and often visit, it's a sort of miniature Prague in terms of tourist sights, glad you enjoyed it."
I agree about the miniature Prague bit - if any of our members are venturing out that way, the area is well worth a visit.
Our first couple of times was with the 1200 'Wing and later with the 15. The first time was when we stayed with a lady and her Daughter in Chvatěruby and they thought we were German. We speak enough German to cope, so we sat chatting with a Czech/German dictionary at hand and had a great time. Caught the local train (chickens on the line) to Kralupy and our first 'double decker' train into Prague. Truly memorable and got Christmas cards for years from them.
Happy days!
Ian
9
« on: May 17, 2026, 02:43:22 PM »
Skoti
Was out yesterday for a 60 mile jaunt with the re-soled boots. Obviously just as comfortable as they always were but strange as it seems, I can tell the difference in height, which can't be more than 15mm. Yes, very pleased and as Johnny says, good for another 25 years (I'll be 102 then!)
Just noticed where you are - we have stayed a few times in Český Krumlov and also further north in Kralupy - lovely places, great food and very friendly folk.
Ian
10
« on: May 15, 2026, 03:40:59 PM »
I was looking at my Ashman steel toe-capped motorcycle boots the other day and felt that perhaps they should be replaced. They have been fantastic boots for over 25 years but I couldn't seem to find any suitable replacements. The left boot sole was quite worn - I always stop with left foot down, so that was to be expected.
Whilst idly trawling the web, I came across the 'Boot Repair Company' in Hunslet, Leeds and sent them an email with pics. Immediate reply came - just parcel them up and send them, we'll re-sole them and re-stick that gear-change pad. New Vibram soles, £79 plus post. They quoted upto 4 weeks turn around - they took NINE days from posting in Orkney to receiving back home!
Seems a really good option, as these boots have been really comfortable - even for fairly lengthy walks.
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Ian
11
« on: May 12, 2026, 06:12:38 PM »
Perceived wisdom is that the originals (they look like they could easily be) are far better than some of cheap replacements, so better to keep those. I would not use wire wool but a good soaking in a small jar with carb cleaner in (even brake cleaner works well) might get most of the gunge off. A light rub over the external surfaces with a grey scotchbrite pad, should have them clean again. You can keep checking to see if all holes are clear and keep going if not. If you know anyone with an ultrasonic cleaning bath (jewellers, dentists 🙈) they might help you.
Ian
12
« on: May 11, 2026, 07:54:38 PM »
That's the stuff Dave,
As I say, try not to get it on the tread, especially if you are a toe down merchant 🤡
Ian
13
« on: May 11, 2026, 01:09:13 PM »
Well, for anyone interested or contemplating the different battery tech, here's what happened this morning:
Fitted the SI battery we bought for our Genny to my 550 - no problems with leads as it's a 4 terminal type like the Motobatt but will need packings as Ken suggested, as it's smaller. The 550 fired up as normal - faster turning but no better or worse for all cylinders to eventually chime in.
Ran the bike for about 5 minutes - battery showing 3 lights (full charge). Switched off and with the kill switch off, gave it 5 x 10 second bursts with 10 seconds recovery between each. I think if you have a bike that won't start after that, it needs further investigation and more than just a new battery! 10 seconds is longer than I ever need or use. Battery test now down to two lights - 50% if it's to be believed but it was still turning over acceptably.
Decided to take the battery off again and put on charge - as I said, I have a stabilised power supply and can vary both current and voltage. I normally charge a Motobatt at 14.5 volts and the current gradually drops from the max of 3amps to almost zero in a few hours.
I tried this setting on the SI battery but it remained on constant current and didn't flick over to constant voltage after 10 mins. I lowered the voltage to 13v and it started the usual sequence and the current gradually dropped from over 2 amps to less than 0.5 in about 15 mins. 3 lights back on! They do say that they are very fast to charge.
I think for anyone without a variable supply, these batteries might need a dedicated charger - I don't have experience of these normal DIY chargers, so can't say. Forgot to say, the charge voltage on my 550 at 3000rpm with this SI battery fitted was 13.4volts, so I would be happy to give it a longer term test sometime. Perhaps there's a more sophisticated REG/REC available these days. Not sure what you have on your VT1100C Ken?
Oh and by the way, the Motobatt for the 550, 400 and 350 fours weighs 4346 grams - this SI one weighs 939 grams - thats 21.6% - unbelievable!
Ian
14
« on: May 11, 2026, 07:52:07 AM »
Hi Ken and Ted,
Yes, the battery is slightly smaller in width and a good bit less in height when compared with the rather tight Motobatt that a lot of us are used to. As Ken says, some closed cell dense foam (I have quite a few large scraps of that) will bring the terminals to a near original position. That's my job for this morning and hope it's a winner - it certainly is on the Genny! It had 3 blue lights when delivered (full charge) and I have not charged it since and will not do until after the 550 test. As I say, early days yet.
Ian
15
« on: May 10, 2026, 09:23:45 PM »
That's great Ted,
Looks like the Chinese have addressed the original problems of charge density. Tomorrow, I'm going to bung this new battery on the 550. I haven't started this bike for about 3 weeks and like Johnny said in another post, my 550 chimes in on one, two, one, four, two again but settles down very quickly to a good 4 cylinder tick-over. I'm interested to see if any change takes place with the Sodium Ion. Another thing I will do - assuming all is well, will be to knock the kill switch off and see if I can get a few 10 second bursts to partly address Gareth's concerns - ok, I realise there will be no power drain to the coils but the starter current might be enough. This is no way to treat a new battery but I have to know its shortcomings!
Ian
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