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Messages - Oddjob
1
« on: September 14, 2026, 12:42:36 PM »
Not very well known but supposedly ok.
2
« on: September 13, 2026, 11:53:40 PM »
Are the points TEC or Daichi? Daichi have a 3 bladed propeller on them.
3
« on: September 13, 2026, 10:44:07 PM »
Probably got a second hand points plate for the 500/550 lying around somewhere. Should also have some stainless steel points screws as well. Complete with captive plain and spring washers.
4
« on: September 12, 2026, 02:13:19 PM »
My brother in law came round on his CM400T the other day Ted. Did you know it got linked air suspension on the front forks like the CBX550?
Might be worthwhile seeing if you can find a pair of fork caps off a write off it that idea appeals to you. It has one air valve that pressurises both forks together. I found a set off a CBX550 hoping it would fit the 500 but it doesn’t.
5
« on: September 12, 2026, 02:09:52 PM »
Different bolts needed. Use the 8mm headed bolts Honda used on the 650 is my advice. Don’t think Honda used a gasket on the 650 but the cork one out of the chrome cover should fit if you feel the need to fit one.
6
« on: September 12, 2026, 01:18:14 PM »
Considering a new chrome cover is the best part of £60 the CMS price is quite reasonable. Even NOS ones can show some damage, mainly to the lacquer finish. I polished mine.
7
« on: September 11, 2026, 11:07:19 PM »
The CB650z fits and is an alloy type not pressed metal. Getting harder to find though.
8
« on: September 11, 2026, 06:33:51 PM »
The most common cause of oil burning in the 500/550s is worn valve stem seals. They hardly ever get changed due to how much work it involves. Watch for blue smoke on startup and especially on closing the throttle after a high speed blast.
9
« on: September 11, 2026, 04:32:15 PM »
Goes against what we were taught. What’s this clearance come from between tang and the float needle.
10
« on: September 10, 2026, 12:33:53 PM »
Plus some electronic ignition systems require timing at full advance. If you don’t know that and set it on the F mark at tickover it won’t idle anyway.
Hence Bryans insistence on knowing which brand it is.
11
« on: September 09, 2026, 01:42:26 PM »
7.5mm Julie. Odd size but was halfway between 7and 8 on my steel ruler so decided for accuracy.
12
« on: September 09, 2026, 12:48:44 PM »
I’d have said replace them. For gods sake don’t forget to grease the sliding mechanism. Easy done in your haste to get everything back together. Ideally the sprocket carrier should be quite hard to get back into place, some silicon or rubber grease helps to slide it back into place. It should have minimal movement if it’s done right. Less than 1mm I’d say. That’s forward and back not left to right.
13
« on: September 09, 2026, 12:43:41 PM »
Got 2 apart atm. I’ll see if the collars are present and get back to you.
14
« on: September 09, 2026, 12:42:53 PM »
Most people think the crank is bent when the bolt holding the advance/retard mechanism to the end of the crank is bent. This causes the mechanism to wobble as it rotates, causing major running issues, normally happens when the bikes dropped hard on its right hand side, usually takes out the chrome points cover at the same time. Sometimes the mechanism is ok afterwards, sometimes not.
Whereabouts in the UK are you?
15
« on: September 08, 2026, 08:53:06 PM »
Replacing the jets is usually a mistake unless you source genuine Keihin jets. Keyster jets are known to not be as good.
Sure you mean 13volts not amps. If so that’s low, around 14 volts is more like it at 4k.
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