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Messages - Laverda Dave
1
« on: July 15, 2025, 08:59:34 PM »
OK, thanks.
I'll try that once I get the clutch off. Trying to find someone with a castellated socket; I'm here with 4 spanners, a screwdriver and a vise grip! 
You need the correct tool to remove the clutch centre nut, it is held on really tight. You'll need to probably use a torque ratchet to get the oomph needed to loosen it and make sure you have bent the tabs back on the lock washer before attempting to undo the nut (and replace the tab washer, not worth the risk of using the old one).
2
« on: July 15, 2025, 08:55:46 PM »
F means front so make sure you have them on the correct way round and follow the manual when doing the bolts up and torque to the correct setting👍.
Similar to tgd handlebar clamps if you take them off for any reason, the have a dot that faces the back. When you do these up you tighten the front bolts first.
3
« on: July 15, 2025, 08:53:01 PM »
Poor Ken. I messaged Roo last week and he told me Ken was in hospital with double pneumonia but I didn't know he was in a induced coma.
Get well soon Ken 👍
4
« on: July 15, 2025, 08:16:44 AM »
Mootobatt's were originally designed for snowmobiles and the harsh weather they endure so having one on a motorbike gives them an easy life 😊. I've got four in total on my bikes and never had a failure apart from when the regulator failed in my VFR and cooked it (it was so buckled and swollen it was a job to get it out of the tray!).
5
« on: July 15, 2025, 08:11:19 AM »
Where did you get the exhaust, is it hand made? They really add to the look👍
6
« on: July 14, 2025, 08:33:54 PM »
I heard last week that Popham airfield in Hampshire has been sold (it was owned by the family of Charles Church, he built it). All upcoming events have been cancelled including the annual bike meet and autojumble. There are plans to build houses on the site.
7
« on: July 14, 2025, 08:25:51 PM »
I always go for Mottabatt's (the yellow brick). The one in my 400/4 has been in there over six years now, no problems at all 10/10. I had two Yuasa's on my old Triumph Sprint ST1050, both died with no warning at all.
8
« on: July 14, 2025, 08:22:17 PM »
That's very nice and good to hear it all went well on the island 
9
« on: July 13, 2025, 03:32:31 PM »
Thanks for that Tim 👍.
I think I best get one just in case. I would have thought it would be a very fiddly arrangement especially when trials riding and it stalling in the heat of a section when you just want to kick it over and get going again!
I got the front forks back on last night but not before discovering a mistake I had made during their rebuild. If you look at the manual it states the oil capacity in each leg as 95-110cc but deeper into the manual at the TL125 supplement it gives a capacity of 135cc (don't quote me, I'm out for the day in Oxford so no manual to look at). I topped up each leg via the oil drain bolt with a syringe as there was no way I was going to remove the circlip again at the top of the leg, they fly off with such force the spring follows it out! Getting them back in and seated in the groove is a nightmare requiring three hands!
10
« on: July 12, 2025, 04:53:37 PM »
Welcome to the forum. Is it an F or F2 model? We need to know the colour as well, the reason will become obvious 😉.
22 years is a long layup, do have some 'as found' photos?
11
« on: July 12, 2025, 04:50:37 PM »
The knuckle was fine Tim. Maybe the previous owner also had a 400/4 and he knew the damage that could be inflicted on a knuckle when you fail to lift the footrest up!
I went into the garage earlier today to do some work and walked straight out again, it was 36c in there 🥵.
12
« on: July 11, 2025, 10:31:10 AM »
Some progress.
I have now stripped the old scabby paint from the tank and found three previous minor dents. TBH I was expecting to find a lot of filler considering the rest of the bike but was pleasantly surprised with what I found. The inside of the tank hasn’t rusted following the good old DEOX-C treatment followed by a drop of diesel swished around the tank to keep it oiled. I’m taking the tank, side panels and headlight rim to Tony at CycleSprays today for its repaint.
Diego (Reddice on here and a site sponsor) has produced a set of tank and side panel decals to his usual immaculate standard.
Peter Horton the master of the clock has overhauled the original MPH speedo that came with the bike and has also found a set of lamp holders. The top bezel was badly dented, the lower bezel was missing and the case had a nasty dent that couldn’t be knocked out. Ash as usual came to the rescue (as he does with most of my restorations these days) and obtained a used JDM KPH speedo for sale in Japan (along with the all important exhaust heat shield that are made of rocking horse poo). Ash sent the KPH speedo to Peter who swapped all the missing and damaged bits over from the KPH to the MPH speedo, an absolute master of his craft. The JDM KPH speedo can hopefully be sold on, no use for it in blighty.
I also collected the chrome plating a couple of weeks ago from Ashford Chrome Plating, their usual excellent job, you can swim in the depth of the plating!
Next week it’s going to be the assembly of the chassis.
13
« on: July 11, 2025, 09:04:03 AM »
Are you 100% sure the swing arm is moving George. I have taken mine apart before even though it felt free to move but it wasn't until I actually removed the whole thing that I found it was sticking. If the two o-rings are missing from the pivot pin water gets down there (even when you wash the bike) and it results in the pin rusting plus a bit of aluminium to steel corrosion going on results in the pivot becoming sticky.
I would take it apart for piece of mind, clean the pin with a bit of fine emery or wire wool and do the same with the arm where the pivot fits. When you reassemble make 100% the two o-rings are in good condition and sit in the recess. Be warned, Honda OEM o-rings are expensive, do yourself a favour and buy a box of various sized o-rings from eBay, much cheaper and you will always use them.
14
« on: July 11, 2025, 09:03:07 AM »
Are you 100% sure the swing arm is moving George. I have taken mine apart before even though it felt free to move but it wasn't until I actually removed the whole thing that I found it was sticking. If the two o-rings are missing from the pivot pin water gets down there (even when you wask the bike) and it results in the pin rusting plus a bit of aluminium to steel corrosion going on results in the pivot becoming sticky.
I would take it apart for piece of mind, clean the pin with a bit of fine emery or wire wool and do the same with the arm where the pivot fits. When you reassemble make 100% the two o-rings are in good condition and sit in the recess. Be warned, Honda OEM o-rings are expensive, do yourself a favour and buy a box of various sized o-rings from eBay, much cheaper and you will always use them.
15
« on: July 09, 2025, 01:14:49 PM »
Hmmm, recent Dyna failures. Dyna were a highly regarded name for ignition systems and coils. I wonder if this is maybe linked to manufacturing changes. Are Dyna still manufacturing in the USA or have they gone like all the rest and moved manufacturing to China?
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