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Messages - TrickyMicky
1
« on: September 04, 2026, 11:32:43 PM »
If the shiny portion(s) are towards the front and rear of the cylinders, then this is quite normal. On the firing/downward stroke, as the crank turns the con-rod is not in a vertical plane, and it gives the piston a 'slanting' tendency thereby exerting more pressure at these points. If ever you get the chance to look at a large marine diesel, or a steam locomotive engine you will se that the connecting rod from the base of the piston operates a crosshead, which keeps the piston square in the bore. I would put your camera away, and if it's not using oil, stop worrying and enjoy riding.
2
« on: August 25, 2026, 10:24:14 PM »
When you have your new lock fitted, please don't make the same daft mistake as me. Unlocked steering, wheeled bike out of garage, turned steerin to the left and snapped the key which I had left in the lock. Older and wiser??? Nah.
3
« on: August 23, 2026, 08:32:26 PM »
Firstly, I admit that I did not see or hear much of the video, But I thought it unusual to have cylinders 1 & 2 sharing a carb, likewise 3 with 4. Earlier twin cylinder Hondas only shared a carb if they had a 360 degree crank because the intake and exhaust pulses were evenly spaced giving smoother breathing. Bikes like the CB72/77 and the later CB250 K series had twin carbs because they were fitted with 180 degree cranks which give uneven pulses. The way the video shows the carb fitting means that each carb is supplying a pair of cylinders which are 180 degrees apart. Many years ago Mick Hand sprinted a 250 supercharged Honda which was catalogued as a CB72, but it had a C72 crank fitted to obtain the regular intake pulses.
4
« on: August 19, 2026, 08:15:28 AM »
If the black from the loom touched anything metal that would blow your fuse as black wires are 12v positive when key is turned on
The offending black wire that almost certainly has to be the culprit.
Just as an aside, I purchased a repro winker relay from David Silver for £18.50 delivered whereas they wanted £51.50 for a genuine part, the differential being just too far apart.
For what it's worth, I have fitted the (hopefully!) attached digital flasher unit to both my 400 and GB250. It will operate with either filament or LED bulbs, or even a mix of the two, the flash rate remains the same. Like yourself, the initial reason for this being an original OE flasher for the GB250 was only available from Japan at £112 plus carriage. The only downside I have found so far being if a bulb fails, the unit just carries on regarldless at the same flash rate. I found that it fitted into the rubber mount on the 400 quite qell.
5
« on: August 16, 2026, 11:18:25 PM »
I hope you did not take up the slack in the clutch cable while the engine was still hot, I think most of the 4's develop some slack when warmed up. When it has cooled off the slack disappears, meaning if you had tightened it when hot you could have clutch slip.
6
« on: August 15, 2026, 09:11:06 PM »
Don't forget that the unforgettable 6 cylinder Honda RC174, whilst using a gear driven magneto, it still used 3 sets of points.
7
« on: August 12, 2026, 11:07:29 PM »
Cibie, I always think of Oscar's & Super Oscar driving lights from the Monte Carlo era of Mini Coopers that were disqualified on a lighting technicality by the French in 1966. No surprise that Citroen ended up winning, BL who were 1,2&3 were disqualified as was the Ford in 4th place.
Ted, I have a distant memory telling me that at the time, French registered cars had to have yellow headlamps, but the Citroens that won by default were said to have white lights.
8
« on: August 10, 2026, 11:26:40 PM »
I worked for London Transport for nearly 11 years in Romford. 3 years as a conductor, then passes my test in a RTW with a pre-select gearbox. One of my best ever jobs. The final 28 years of my working life I was a coach driver. Attached (hopefully!) is the actual bus that I leant and took my test in. (RTW 62)
9
« on: August 10, 2026, 01:22:36 PM »
I had this happen a couple of times on the 400. I was advised to check the multi-plug supplying the fuse holder. Sure enough, after 40 odd years all the spade connectors inside were a lovely shade of green. Did not take too long with a set of jewellers files to restore them, and no problem since. The person who told me to look there, also mentioned that with the glass fuses, if it fails with the wire broken inside the glass, then that is usually a short. If it fails because the end cap on the fuse has parted company, as in my case, then that is because it has got hot trying to draw current through the corroded connections.
10
« on: August 06, 2026, 06:27:40 AM »
I fitted one of the new DSS combined units 10 years ago after a charging fault, just about limped home, thank Gawd for the kickstart!! I am not an electrician, especially when it comes to charging/rectifier systems. After making a mounting plate from an old brass window hinge, (yes, really!), the new 'potted' unit was fitted where the old regulator was sited under the left side=cover. There was just enough slack in the wiring to the old rectifier to reach across to the left side. So far, so good.
11
« on: August 01, 2026, 10:30:09 PM »
Looking at the angle between the front brake cable and the operating arm, I guess it will very soon want re-lining. Hope it does not reflect on the Spitfie!!!
12
« on: July 28, 2026, 03:41:53 PM »
Try putting the earth to the gearchange shaft, no paint or grime to impede the current.
13
« on: July 25, 2026, 07:38:20 AM »
Definitely sounds like a duff battery, irrespective of its age. It may have been a bit older, but I have just had the same problem with my 250. (No kickstart!!!). Left it on charge overnight, was reading 13.8 volts, touched the starter button in the morning to check. Magic!!. Went indoors to put all the riding clobber on, pushed bike out of garage, pressed starter button and all it did was kill the neutral light. New gel battery fitted, sanity returned.
14
« on: July 24, 2026, 08:13:57 AM »
I got my first bike (?), a Raleigh Runabout moped, in 1964. The next one was a Honda in 1967, and the 'boring old fart' syndrome started then, as I have only ever owned Hondas. I am now 79 years old, and yes, there are bits of my body that do not work as well as they used to but the grey matter is still functioning well, meaning that just occasionally as I approach a bend, I have to remind myself of my age and perceived wisdom. The 400 is starting to make its weight felt in the garage, so I bought a couple of Sealey moving dollies. The second one being for the GB250 Clubman, which, being over 100lbs lighter than the 400 is an absolute hoot to ride and corners like a dream. The 400 is still the chosen one though for anything over 50 miles. Most times, the prop stand is used on the 400, but when back in the garage I run the rear wheel up onto a piece of wood about 2 inches thick as it makes getting it on to the centre stand a lot easier. If I use the hydraulic lift, I have to seek assistance for the 400, but can just about manage the 250 unaided. Remember Clint Eastwood, "A man has to know his limitations". My main concerns now being, at the end of each ride out, there follows a quick check on body and bike to see who is going to be incontinent first!! You don't stop riding beacuse you're getting old, you get old because you have stopped riding. Regarding aching limbs, I own a car with a manual gearbox, and if you think about it, to drive it, you have to physically move all four of your limbs, whereas onve you've managed to get astride the bike, the actual driving/operation is a piece of p--s, and it's far better for the grey matter. Stay upright and keep riding everyone. Mike.
15
« on: July 19, 2026, 11:23:27 PM »
Check the tickover
Should pull as low as 3k
My little 200 twin will pull that low
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
If my memory serves me correctly, the 200 is a 360 degree twin, whereas the 250 is a 180 degree. I think back many years to my 175 twin with the 360 crank, and it would run to reasonably low revs, but my 250 needed to be kept spinning over quite quickly.
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