Honda-SOHC

I think that re-assembly out of the frame is far better. There is far less caution and finesse needed when dismantling, but rebuilding successfully is easier to achieve without frame tubes, cables, and wires getting in the way, plus of course you will be constantly working on either side of the engine, which is made easier if you can just turn the engine round in front of you on a bench. (Whilst comfortably seated on your stool!!!). The only down side being that you may have to enlist the help of a friend to lower the frame over the finished item.

You start to wonder if all these complications are just the designers'  way of keeping their jobs!!  I'm sure we all know of vehicles where you need the instruction manual just to reset the clock from winter to summer, I have a digital clock in my garage, and there is a button which I press once to advance it one hour, and if I press it again it goes back one hour. What could be simpler?  I consider any vehicle that needs the driver to look at and touch a screen whilst driving is not fit for purpose, and should never have been giver a certificate of initial fitness.

My last real bodge was 4miles from home, so, a 1 hour walk pushing it, or an 8 minute very careful ride. This was on the 400, and the main fuse had cried enough and I had no spare.  Even though all myn thoughts were scre aming "Don't do this", I found that the small screwdriver bits that we all use nowadays fit the fuseholders perfectly, and yes, this was after I had identified the cause!!!

I have no technical qualifications on this subject, only my memories. When I ran a 750 K2 in the 70's I used 20/50 oil. All the comics were singing the praises of the wonderful Duckhams "Q" multigrade, so, in it went.  My personal experience was "What a load of crap".  unless the bike was used on extremely long journeys, every time I took the dipstick out of the tank, the top of it was covered in white frothy sludge. I finished up using Shell Super Multigrade 20/50, and never had any problems at all regardless of type of usage. It also helped that my father worked in a Shell garage, say no more!!!  I carried on using this oil even when I got the 400, but then it changed to becoming Super Helix, also suitable for diesels. I then started using Motul 10/40 mineral oil, and have done ever since.  It's interesting to try to remember that there was life before the multigrade revolution, just over a year ago I did a cosmetic restoration on a 1966 CL160, and cast into the upper crankcase were the oil specifications, winter - straight 30, and summer - straight 40, and still they lasted!!   

The last time I bought some black fuel line, I got it from a large Briggs and Stratton dealership. It was quite a few years ago, but they did have a range of diameters, and it was good stuff.  You have to rewind your brain though, as it's American, it's sold by the foot!!

Solvol is fairly abrasive, that's whi it does such a good job on alloy. I would only use it very gently on small rust dots on chrome.  I use a generous dose of Zip Wax shampoo for washing, using a very soft bristled brush, hose off, leather. Then leave on prop stand to let remaining water run off. I'm fortunate in having a small compressor, so I use the blowgun at about 35PSI to remove any hidden drops of water. I then give the bike a run long enough to get the exhaust system really hot and dry on the inside.  For polishing I have always used Turtle Wax for paintwork and chrome.

One of the not uncommon features regarding older vehicles, (2 or 4 wheels),  is that nowadays they are being driven by people of all age groups, so there are differing expectations as to what is an acceptable level of performance. Being an old 'wrinkly git'  I was brought up with the idea of firm/hard braking required firm/hard input from the driver. This method, when used with a well set up hydraulic or mechanical system gave great feedback through the lever/pedal.  My first vehicle with a so-called powerful brake was a 1969 CB250 with a twin LS front brake, which I soon learnt not to apply too suddenly!! Bloody useless though when trying to stop the bike rolling backwards down a slope.  I never had a car licence until I took my test in 1969 on a London Transport bus. Very satisfying, but the early type air brakes felt peculiar at first, it was just like pressing your foot on a firm rubber ball. Because there was no mechanical connection between the pedal and the brake shoes, the only feedback you got was from the seat of your pants.  ABS had not been invented then, so I was taught the art of cadence braking on the skid patch in West London.  Moving on, my present car, a 14 year old Peugeot is the first car I have owned with ABS. The irony of this being that 3 days ago, the ABS warning light illuminated, and stayed on. To me this is not too much of a problem, as it still possesses a working brake system like I have been used to. BUT!!! it will not pass the MOT.  My GB250 is fitted with one of those 2 piston front calipers, which yes, is quite powerful, but has a vastly different lever feel to the 400, quite soft in fact. When I took it for its MOT, I queried it with the tester, and he replied that it was a perfectly set up brake. I realise that I have deviated somewhat from the original post, so, is there any progress on the offending front brake?  It'll soon be spring, when the dust sheets can be removed from the bikes and placed over the model railway!! Stay safe everyone.