Honda-SOHC

Linked to my other thread about Koni shocks that won't fit ideally, I'm considering other options to replace my stock shocks. Ideally, new one looking like OEM (chomed)

Any ideas what is actually available on the market and where to buy?
I was looking at TEC website but those declared as matching OEMs are not available... https://www.tecbikeparts.com/product/cb500f-cb550f-k-tec-chrome-shock-absorbers/ but have no idea about their performance anyway.

The reason I'm lloking for the replacement is very, very poor performance of OEM ones, bike is "jumping" on uneven surface and behaves very bad in curves... I simply need much better performance for my riding needs.

Photo of current bike with original shocks attached
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I'm considering to make this tool, as I'm quite bothered using normal 8mm socket and screwdriver for carb sync. Each time I tighten nut it moves screw a bit and sync is not accurate...

Found this original Honda tool, want to make something similar https://www.cmsnl.com/products/wrench-carburetor_079083230200/

If somebody has it, can you pls measure key dimensions for me?
Dimensions I'm looking for see attached picture

Just online from garage: I'm in front of rear wheel assembly and wondering what side first? Logically I would first install right one (brake side), until fully seated. Then from opposite side long spacer, short spacer and left bearing until it touches spacers. Then tightening retainer while checking for free rotation of bearings?

Please correct if wrong

PS: normally I would not ask and do as above, just seen some posts on US forum instructing other way?

Just found that inserts in rubber connecting muffler ends on CB500/550K are broken into pieces. Rubbers are still good.
Honda sells it as kits (rubber+insert) - did anyone find good alternative to OEM inserts?

Looks to me kind of plastic or asbestos ring?

Maybe thick gasket material would do the job?

Any advice welcome

Went through parts catalogues (CMS), just want to have it confirmed from experts here
I understood, there were 2 PN - 12200-323-010 and later 12200-374-000. Seems there were also 2 types of EX valve guides in production.

- are cylinder heads compatible across all CB500K - 500K - 550F?
- how to identify what head is what PN? Is there some "marking" on head casting allowing that?


Why these questions - I'm preparing for engine rebuild, have possibility to buy set head+cam+valve cover (new type) for good price, but seller is unable to confirm exact head type. Idea is to rebuild that head and swap it on my engine as whole (saving some time) and keep my head as spare for future.

Hello all,

Preparing for engine opening and partial or full rebuild. As I’ll do it for the first time, I’d like to kindly ask for forum experts’ advices/recommendations. I’ll keep thread updated as I’ll proceed. Sorry for long post in advance 😉

Bike is stock CB550K K1, has 17.7k miles total. Engine pulls good as far as I can judge (till 70 mph good, above it not so fast, max speed is about 90-100 MPH)

So let’s start with why I plan this and what I want to address/achieve:

1.   Issue with either camshaft or valve rocker or something else – so need to open valve cover as minimum, more details here http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,23227.msg208693.html#msg208693. Along with that I want to replace valve cover by new type, that have fixed rocker arm shafts. But need to find it first. Along with that of course new gasket.. Optionally, if it turns out that camshaft needs to be replaced, I’ll try to find one with improved torque or one from CB650. And of course rockers if replacement needed

2.   Rattling noise @idle coming from head-cylinders (pushing clutch makes just little difference). I’ll make video and post it here, maybe you know that noise and its route cause. Bike idles well, ign. set properly, carbs synced

3.   Cam chain replacement

4.   If head will come off – complete head work – cleaning, valve checks, eventually new valve guides, seals, check for flatness / milling … simply taking opportunity that head is off, check/replace all needed. All gaskets / O-ring / seals replacement. Check/replacement of tensioner

5.   If cylinders will come off – replacement of piston rings. I expect bores & pistons will be OK

6.   Splitting cases is big question now – I’d like to fix shifting issue, but still hope this could be caused by mechanism under clutch (?) http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,19775.msg175185.html#msg175185 On the other hand side, having cylinders off, maybe it is good idea to replace all seals, primary chain and check gearbox (?)

Now first questions – before I pull engine and start stripping, any advice what I should do before?

I’m thinking about:
-   leak test (to estimate rings / head status to be confirmed when removed)
-   redo compression test to have reference for comparison after rebuild. Last measurement was: dry: 120/120/110/130 psi, wet (teaspoon oil into each cylinder) : 150/150/145/145 psi
-   detailed inspection of clutch and shifting mechanism under basket – maybe after that case splitting not necessary (?)

Any thoughts / ideas / advices what else I should do before pulling engine / stripping?

Engine - CB550K1 / 1975

Today during break in ride I discovered cause of oil leak - tapper cap on intake (cyl#1) was not tightened fully (strange as I'm sure I tightened it after tapper adj.)
But why - because valve arm is "hitting" cap and making knocking noise

I did not have tappet feeler gauge with me, but just checking free play with hand it looked OK, maybe bit too much.
Comparing with intake on cyl#4 it is obvious that tappet adj.screw is "too deep", consequently arm too high and hitting cap (and also nearly hitting cyl head cover...)

See attached pics for comparison, incl. "hammered" points in cap

===>>>  Can someone provide idea what's wrong, why this tappet arm is so high? Worn arm? Worn cam? Or some other issue I should look for?
I'll check other tappets too, but seems only this one tappet/arm has this issue (I did not realised it before when adjusting tappets). Motor has not been opened yet from stock.

Note: Temporary I filed part of tappet cap (wide groove) to allow free arm movement, I still need to arrive home tomorrow (>150 miles), hope it will be fine like that. I'll check tappet adjustments tomorrow on cold engine before I go.

wish you all