This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: February 11, 2026, 09:28:32 AM »
Impressive attention to detail. He could probably earn good money cleaning and rebuilding PD carburettor sets 
2
« on: February 10, 2026, 05:35:02 PM »
An original Honda 750 workshop manual shows simple multi bladed valve seat cutters in the 3 different angles for hand cutting use.
3
« on: February 02, 2026, 10:37:58 AM »
It's been a busy but productive weekend in the garage. The bike is now completely apart with the engine now sitting on its own on the bike lift as I removed the frame today.
Prior to indulging in some heavy degreasing I thought I'd strip the fork legs. Somebody has been in there before me and has managed to completely mangle the head of the hex socket bolt holding the damper rod. Nothing fits what is left of the rounded head.
Has anyone else come across this before and if you did how did you get the bolt out? I think I might have to resort to drilling it out but that is going to be risky considering the head of the bolt is set so deeply in the recess. It's only going to take a slight deviation of the drill and I'll go into the alloy of the fork leg. I was going to try to hammer a torx headed socket in there but knowing how tight those bolts are I can't see the torx head having enough grip in the socket head.
Any ideas would be welcome 🤔.
I do that for some, works well on softer materials to get good flank drive. However, with steel hex internal knackered, the "spline" drive bits (think some call them triple square) bits are usually most successful in getting good drive from the butchered item. Tap in with lump hammer, remove to clean swarf etc. Tap fully home, then first attempt with decent potency impact gun will usually see them yeald quite easily. Emphasis of the prep and fully home/engaged to give first strike bite and highest chance of straight removal.
4
« on: January 11, 2026, 08:08:09 PM »
I belive they are steel casting, and welding compatible without any special measure. Also welded to the central pivot, usually underneath the item.
When contemporary, a friend altered a 750 F2 example, by milling off original lugs, this to give a flat site to then weld in place significantly stronger and larger form items to make them more robust.
At the time, we were both working in engineering with metallurgy and analysis capabilities, checked through there as to material which verified the above view.
Plain stick method or decent grunt in mig etc to get competent amalgamation of weld site, else the result will just snap off easily.
If you want to build up a weld "lump" though, grind away flat, cover with lines of weld bead then clean the surface and go again on top. Repeating to height, you may need to grind top surface intermediately to get get good secure layering in building up.
Don't quench at all, just let cool between welds to avoid any crystalline risk.
We examined this process too during weld training, building up layers until sufficient to then cut the whole into cross section, ultimately to be then acid etched to expose any included faults etc.
6
« on: January 05, 2026, 05:06:28 PM »
Definitely smaller, and look almost as if they are ultimately based around roller bearing typical sizing. That wouldn't be unusual from their development path in road and track of that period.
7
« on: January 05, 2026, 07:58:32 AM »
They're more or less heavy duty in design spec, particularly for the 350/400 installation.
Some of their attributes and limitations aren't readily apparent in casual observation though.
The bearing pins, along with the holes they run in, are quite smal in surface area. Oil replenishment and its film strength being critical to longevity.
Originally developed to run in 5 viscosity transmission oils, are pushed into compromise a little in these engine oil applications. Because of restricted access into and out of the bearing sites, any impediment effectively starves those of competent lubrication. That resulting in the oil breaking down its film strength (shearing capacity) to both wear and overheat the pins.
Oil flow and low fuel dilution (shear performance reduction) are the prerequisite needs to give long life.
They are in effect self tensioning as the tooth form change along with centrifuge action causes them to moderate their own excess movement and generally not flap around. This effect part of their original designation as "silent" chain type, before development by Borg Warner into the more common usage for transmissions generally, named by them I believe as "HyVo" installation.
Ideally they'd use lowest viscosity engine oil in bringing it closer to the Auto transmission fluid they developed it with for high speed applications. But other restrictions apply here in our shere of regime operation. Cleam undiluted oil though, eminently sensible for all,engine function.
8
« on: January 04, 2026, 02:22:49 PM »
I completely forgot to put the link Ash 
10
« on: January 04, 2026, 12:52:30 PM »
Snowed Thursday night here, not huge amount but enough to make all surfaces white, including roads. Major routes gritted, but side roads treacherous as generally compacted into ice now. Some still have sheet ice and was -5.5c @ 8:00am today. A few nerfed car corners and clattered rims into granite kerbing are notable locally  proliferation of delivery scooters saw quite a few taken by surprise, fairly fast on their side too. Out at adhoc car meet locally this morning, quite a turn out from classics and surprised as the amount of salt/grit around would usually keep them away.
11
« on: January 03, 2026, 09:03:28 AM »
If you go to the "signal" wire that commands the starter solenoid, then provide input to that to see if it starts.
This effectively splits the system in half to see if the problem lays in the request part or the action part switching and running motor to turn the engine.
Check the terminals are tight on, successively the battery, the solenoid large terminals, the starter motor, as they won't take the load needed if loose, but may give you that intermittent situation.
12
« on: January 01, 2026, 11:44:40 AM »
They fettled an example of such on Wheeler dealers USA iteration I believe (it's that model) Ted.
Interesting your experience of it, and quite a individual design too.
Their's was a dark metallic green one, with various knocks and running inconsistencies. A reasonably lucid view of it on their program.
A few publications had someone draw interesting vehicles in that period, gave decent insight to the designs of the times.
I watch an American content on YT of a guy who runs a scrap/recycle business, dismantling various car engines, mostly with catastrophic failure, all of which are really informative as to limitations and failure node that occur.
13
« on: December 30, 2025, 09:30:26 AM »
Pretty cool poster. I love drawings of engines like this. Before I was even a bike owner they published similar for different engine in "Motorcycle" newspaper which my dad had delivered. I understood a lot just from those, fascinating details for me. Nice to have one like that of a bike you own 
14
« on: December 28, 2025, 09:47:29 PM »
Apparently, an individual was caught in attempt at evading all of the London traffic charges by travelling up the Thames by motorpike & sidecarp, baboom-tish
15
« on: December 28, 2025, 01:09:21 PM »
Or Danish oil even
|
Show Posts