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Messages - TrickyMicky
1
« on: June 10, 2026, 08:45:57 AM »
Just a random thought, but, are you sure that the cables are correctly routed? If you search this forum you will find "Ash's Dropbox" which contains a very good diagram of cable routing from the dealers' set - up manual. As has been said already, I replace my clutch cable approx. every two years, and to make sure the routing stays the same I cable tie the new cable to the old one at the engine end and pull it through from the handlebars.
2
« on: June 07, 2026, 03:57:50 PM »
Can we be sure that it was the bike and not the washing machine we could hear?  ??
3
« on: May 31, 2026, 07:07:34 PM »
Rear end.
4
« on: May 31, 2026, 07:06:45 PM »
Rims and spokes from DSS fitted May 2020. Photos taken October 2025.
5
« on: May 29, 2026, 08:19:15 AM »
And another:---
6
« on: May 29, 2026, 08:17:15 AM »
On the tail hump,it's say 250
One of the tiny twin cam 4s
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
19k rpm anybody??
19K Most definitely!! They make a very nice, and authentic sounding parade bike. (Try to ignore the radiator hoses!).
7
« on: May 28, 2026, 04:32:00 PM »
Whilst I can fully understand the desire for originality, I hope you are looking for "original looking" hose, but of recent manufacture. Back in the 70's when I had a cb750 from new, after just under two years old, it started making a peculiar sound on a cold start, which would disappear as the engine warmed. The dealer, when told, went straight for the oil feed hose from the bottom of the oil tank, and informed me that it had 'imploded', or, collapsed internally. When I asked how he knew where to look, he informed me that I was not the first to suffer from this. Fortunately, no engine damage was done. So make sure you get the best quality hose possible.
8
« on: May 28, 2026, 02:13:01 PM »
Why not forget about it and leave them blinking like everybody else does!!! 
Rode behind a guy on a Triumph Bonnie yesterday who had his right blinker flashing for nearly 10 miles. He finally "fixed it" when he had to make a left turn... 
Not like I haven't done the same thing...with the blinker light on the dash flashing away...
Alcoholic reasoning:- To save faffing about with extra wiring, when you operate the indicators, make the loud beeping noise with your mouth. Pedestrians will certaionly look at you, and you most definitely will not forget to cancel the indicators!! Logical???
9
« on: May 27, 2026, 06:50:41 PM »
CMSNL show that they have stock of the handlebars for a USA model CB350F. Part No. 53100333000. Don't know if it the same diameter as the 400 though, cannot find dimensions.
10
« on: May 22, 2026, 08:25:28 PM »
Regarding the centrifugal oil filter, if it hasn't been touched for a while it can be a real b-----d to undo. Last year I cleaned up a CL160 which has the same type of filter. You start by removing the small cover to reveal the filter which is held in place by one of those early philips headed bolts In my case I started with a T-handled JIS screwdriver, but you have to stop the engine from turning!! Jamming the footbrake isn't strong enough, so, remove the clutch cover completely and jam a plastic or wooden wedge into the primary drive gears, and then attack with an impact driver. In my case, and apparently many others, if it's been in there long enough, you have to carefully drill the bolt head off. Once this has been achieved, on the 160 I removed one of the handlebar clamp bolts, and used it to draw the spinner out of the filter bowl. Such fun. If it's any use, attached (hopefully) is my 1971 250 fresh from the dealers, note the side covers.
11
« on: May 18, 2026, 03:16:40 PM »
Easy Start----- YEUK!!-- The work of the devil. The knocking noises I've heard over the years from enthusiastic use.
12
« on: May 17, 2026, 07:53:05 AM »
If you still have not removed the switch, maybe try applying plenty of pressure through the brake lever then give a sharp tap to one of the hexagon flats with a small jhammer or a screwdriver handle. This used to work sometimes on compressed air lines if a valve played silly buggers.
13
« on: May 15, 2026, 06:59:23 AM »
Nice bit of work done there, looks good. Re. the kickstart rubber, I can remember some of my early Hondas had this very useful piece of information as standard. As for the slight mishap, well, I'm sure many of us have suffered from sidestand woes one way or another in our time. Your first fears are probably echoed by most of us with older machines regarding "Mind the tank, or, mind the exhaust system"!!! My recent lucky escape from a 'slight mishap' (brain fog) being that I use a couple of Sealey dollies to make swapping the two bikes round in the garage a lot easier. I had moved the 400 sideways across the garage, and then went behind the 250 and pushed it forward using the rear carrier. Hard concrete floor, hard castors on dolly, one of which caught a small pebble and stopped dead, meaning bike shot forward off the stand and fortunately fell against a tool cabinet with the handlebar end weight taking the shock. Must remember to keep the floor swept!!!
14
« on: May 05, 2026, 02:07:14 PM »
Original ones are steel, Ted. Even the new reproduction ones from DSS have a steel base.
15
« on: May 04, 2026, 11:16:01 PM »
If you have the standard seat, are all the rubber spacers fitted as per the photo? These keep the seat base clear of the air intake. If the seat has been allowewd to settle too low, this could also be why the lock jammed.
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