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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
1
« on: April 21, 2026, 01:10:55 PM »
Might be worth checking the 400 parts book.🤔
2
« on: April 21, 2026, 08:46:39 AM »
Might be worth checking the downloadable Honda workshop manual on this site.
My 400 has lock washers, a paired arrangement iirc.
3
« on: April 19, 2026, 03:30:07 PM »
I have found the parts manual the best reference point.
4
« on: April 17, 2026, 01:44:19 PM »
I could be wrong, I often am, I think they are essentially dust shields to keep muck out of the mechanism.
Often wondered if an O ring would do the job on each ball end.
5
« on: April 15, 2026, 11:08:23 PM »
Here's a pic of the Seeley from back in the day:
Nice looking 105E Anglia in the background with Go faster Stripe.
6
« on: April 15, 2026, 10:08:52 AM »
An old friend of mine was a metalagist who worked for a firm called Lubrizol at Hazelwood where he was the head chemist, they are independant oil/lubricant testers to the international oil industry. He bought a new Rover 2000 TC that he ran in for what to me sounded like a ridiculous period, 10k miles!
He sold the car when the bodywork statrted to let it down, not only did it never need oil topping up between services but it covered almost 200k miles when he parted with it. I'm talking here about a 1970's vehicle before the advent of newer oil technology. He told me that he thought it was the extra long running in period that gave his engine the long life.
I have always respected manufacturers advice on running in periods even on company cars, many new cars back in the 1960's would have running in sticker in the rear screen. Yes things have moved on, not sure if a rebore has the ability to machine within the current fine tollerances used by engine manufacturers.
7
« on: April 15, 2026, 08:20:44 AM »
Personally I think running in is essential especially if you have had a rebore or new piston rings.
Not labouring the engine and keeping the revs lower say a maximum of 5500 revs increasing this gradually over the next 500 miles or so should benefit long term.
Many car manufacturers used a special running in oil that was slightly abrasive at the factory.
The ride it as if you stole it could lead to a shorter engine liife or premature oil consumption. My understanding is that at a molecular level the contact surfaces at the bore and ring need to be smooth as they mate and work harden. Over reving too soon destroys the initial bedding in process. This has become less important with current synthetic oils and more accurate fine machining of the bores imho.
8
« on: April 14, 2026, 05:13:20 PM »
For lower risk heating I use one of Wendy's old hair driers.
Upgrades include a Bosch Paint stripping heat gun,
lastly my Plumbers Calor Gas Torch.
None of the above worked on the seized center stand pivot on my 400, I had to resort to a hack saw and impact tool.
9
« on: April 13, 2026, 08:54:08 PM »
Hi Ted The oil on the floor was directly under the mount I thoroughly cleaned the mount area with brake cleaner then left it a couple of days The oil leak was back With oil dripping from the mount area Checked around the filter housing but that dry Where the nut for the mount goes The casing looks a bit rough As though someone has had a go at it in the past So is my number 1 suspect. Now I know I can remove just the lower crankcase
its better than a full engine strip. So engine out ( Happy days ) Just need to find a good local welder around Norwich Any recommendations I know BadFoot Customs in Yorkshire is brilliant But has a very very long waiting list
thanks for the comments
A bit of bad luck with the casing damage, at least it's fixable,
10
« on: April 12, 2026, 02:36:03 PM »
Are you 100% certain as to the source of the oil leak?
Very easy to find what you think are cracks in the casing that turn out to be casting marks.
Oil can easily run down from the cylinder head etc.
11
« on: April 11, 2026, 01:28:33 PM »
When you say that you changed the master cyclinder for something newer, did you check that the bore size is the same as the original? If the bore size is bigger, then it will need more lever pressure to achieve a brake force. If you apply 50lbs force to a piston of 1/2 sq. inch you will get a line pressure of 100PSI. If the piston has an area of 1 sq. inch then you will only get line pressre of 50PS!.
Pretty sure the bore size is a tad larger, someone here will know the difference, I have no difficulty in applying any extra pressure, the reduction in free play was well worth it. My old master cylinder was corroded and seized. I have new standard brake hoses not braided with Silicone brake fluid.
12
« on: April 11, 2026, 12:34:15 PM »
Well spotted on the tool front Skoti, I have a set of three.
13
« on: April 11, 2026, 12:31:10 PM »
Yes the single front disc brake on a 400 is never going to feel like a modern twin disc set up with multiple caliper pistons.
That said with correct adjustments, free pivots plus modern friction materials they can work satisfactorily.
I guess most owners of older bikes have developed appropriate riding styles with anticipation skills to match the older braking ability. I found the DS master cylinder improved the general feel of the front brakes with much reduced free play.
14
« on: April 11, 2026, 11:41:42 AM »
Just a bit of an update since my heath issues have improved and Wendy's Stroke last April. I'm planning to start work on the SD in the next few weeks, it will only be a few hours a week, I see it as a sort of home respite from my new role as a Carer. The 500T swing arm did not work out, yes it fitted but rear wheel was way off center using the original spacers. The longer arm length was also problematic impacting on chain length & ride height. I had the original swing arm repaired by a member on the SD website, it fitted a treat with the rear wheel central to the rear fender, frame and wheels now fitted to frame.  PXL_20250524_190205750 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
15
« on: April 11, 2026, 10:19:09 AM »
On the topic of oddometer reading / mileage there is also the factor of what type of use a vehicle has, my experience is mainly on cars.
I bought a cheap 10 year old Opel Ascona back in the early 1980's it belonged to a Turkey Farmer who used the vehicle to drive to a local Church less than three miles from his farm. The vehicle had covered just over 16,000 miles, he had it serviced by the main dealer every year.
When I changed the rocker cover due to an oil leak the valve gear was thick with sludge as was the inside of the rocker cover.
It had clearly spent half its mileage with the automatic choke on. After only 18 months of ownership it started with little end clatter and other horrible engine noises, after my additional 15k miles the engine/car was scrap.
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