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Messages - Mikep328
1
« on: March 02, 2026, 02:25:30 PM »
I don't care at all for the "concours" thing. I was at a Ferrari concours once and a regularly driven 308 GTS was docked points because the screws holding the fuel filler tube to the body, totally hidden unless you are fueling, were stainless instead of original type screws. I agree that it is interesting and useful to see a vehicle "just as it left the factory," but they should never be judged in the same category as one that is actually driven. It seems ludicrous to do so.
2
« on: February 20, 2026, 11:57:54 AM »
"Get a yellow one and see what all the fuss was/is about."
I have '76 Red but I must admit that I could see myself adding a Yellow AND a Blue!! But I don't have any REAL use for three of the same motorcycles...  "You could always go for a 6 into 6 to be really cool"Funny - a few years ago we were at the Isle of Man for the races and there was a guy with cafe-ed 6cyl red Benelli. Gorgeous bike. Every time he rode up to any of the various viewing areas, people quit watching the racers fly by and went over to look at/listen to that Benelli. I really wanted a Honda CBX back in the day but they were too expensive for me. Now I could actually buy one but they have become too heavy! Not sure how they gained weight over the years...
3
« on: February 19, 2026, 08:54:19 PM »
IMO it is one of the prettiest bikes ever made and that 4-1 exhaust is a major reason! Back in the day most folks with 4cyl bikes ditched 4-4 exhausts to install a 4-1. Honda did it for us and made a classy looking one as well.
It's a great little bike that deserves to be ridden regularly. I ride the heck out of mine, winding it up to redline as often as possible through whatever gears traffic allows! Of the bikes I own, it is probably the most FUN to ride. Though I admit my '21 Moto Guzzi V7 Special comes close! Opposites, of course!!
4
« on: February 14, 2026, 03:20:49 AM »
I haven't used any fuel OTHER than "normal" ethanol since ethanol became standard in fuel. Never have made any attempt to find non-ethanol fuel for any vehicle. Have had no issues whatsoever with ethanol fuel. I have had that fuel in motorcycle tanks stored for over two years with StaBil added before storage and the motos started as if they had been running yesterday. I didn't intend for the motos to not be ridden for two years but it just worked out that way! Ethanol fuel has worked just fine in engines from 60's US Muscle Cars to current cars/motos. In my experience, worrying about ethanol fuel is right up there with worrying about getting attacked by a shark...in Kansas or while sitting in a pub in Cheddar!. 
5
« on: January 21, 2026, 09:26:41 PM »
FWIW, when I did the work on my front brake I replaced all parts with genuine Honda parts. I figured that since the brakes are a critically important component I did not want anything but Honda parts, regardless of price. This included removing a new aftermarket caliper piston a shop had installed for the previous owner just a few months prior. But since the brake was TERRIBLE and essentially useless when I bought the bike, I figured the shop didn't actually test the brakes, just installed some new parts/new fluid, made sure the lever felt firm and that was that.
6
« on: January 19, 2026, 12:51:48 PM »
After the brake bleed, and assuming you have new brake lines that won't be expanding when you apply the brakes, bed in a set of NEW, brake pads properly and you will likely be happy with the front brake. Bedding in the brakes takes some effort, it's not a matter of just going out/applying them a few times. It is not really necessary on modern brakes but it will make a DRAMATIC difference/improvement on these brakes. I suggest the Vesrah Organic pads which were best of 5 different compound pads I tried when I restored my 400's front brake.
Here is the bedding-in procedure I followed, it was posted on the site by OddJ in Aug, 2023:
"Clean the brake disc off with brake cleaner to remove any existing pad transfer material, a gentle rub with some fine wet and dry won't hurt either. Then take the bike out and do 15 gentle brakes from 30mph and then a 2 mile cool down followed by another 15 or so from around 45mph using moderate brake pressure followed by another 2 mile cool down run, then stop to see how the discs look. You should clearly see some pad transfer, it's a sort of blue/grey mist on the surface of the disc, then do 15-20 full on braking sessions from around 65-75mph, dropping the speed down really quickly but rolling off when around 10mph and then back up to speed later, followed by a 5 mile cool down run."
7
« on: January 13, 2026, 05:25:25 PM »
My 400F is my primary ride in the UK so it's seen a lot of use. I've ridden in the wet - though not pouring rain - and my best "statement" about the brakes overall is that I don't even think about them when riding. After doing the re-work AND the break in procedure for new pads that you (OddJ) so kindly posted back then, it stops with no issue/concern when I need it to stop! 
8
« on: January 12, 2026, 09:19:40 PM »
"I know that the front brake on this model is not great " Old wives tale courtesy of the internet. Per road test data from then/now the 400F had the same stopping distance from speed as current middleweight standard Honda's. more info... (you can take a look at the whole thread if interested) https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,29559.msg285797.html#msg285797
9
« on: December 09, 2025, 02:34:36 PM »
Agree with the comments re sorting out other possible faults. Re sync gauges - the individual gauges quite likely will not agree out of the box. IOW, you might adjust all carbs to the same setting using the gauges but the carbs may not actually be set the same. So with a multiple gauge set, attach each gauge in turn to the same cylinder and adjust each gauge calibration so each reads the same. THEN you can attach all four gauges to the cylinders and get accurate indication of any difference between them.
10
« on: November 25, 2025, 01:00:17 PM »
MY 400 does essentially the same except that it's a single cylinder (#4) that does what you describe. The issue appeared after last year's winter layup. Same as you noted, the bike runs perfectly on the road from any RPM/gear up to redline and idles fine at around 1100 RPM though, just as you said, occasionally at idle it will quit but restarts instantly when the start button is pressed. After a run, all pipes are equally hot but if it sits there idling for a bit, #4 cools while the others remain hot. Seems clear to my troubleshooting ability that it's definitely the carb and it's only an issue at closed throttle (idle).
TBH, I didn't feel like removing the carbs so I operated the bike this past year and ignored the issue since it didn't really affect normal riding. Maybe next year I'll pull them.
11
« on: November 19, 2025, 09:30:40 AM »
Can you give an example? I'm not understanding the calculation. If the max pressure on the tire sidewall is say, 800 lbs max load at 44PSI, the moto weighs 450 lbs and the rider 175, what would you calculate a starting tire pressure to be?
12
« on: November 18, 2025, 05:00:59 PM »
I've found that the TP as stated on my '76 CB400F's sticker - 26psi F/28psi R. works fine with current tires of the OEM size. Higher pressure just makes it a harsh ride. OTOH, a couple of pounds lower improves the ride AND cornering grip but at the expense of increased wear. So it seems to me that the OEM pressures are the best for normal riding. I weigh about 77Kg with riding gear.
13
« on: November 08, 2025, 12:56:21 PM »
I bought the pattern part grab handle from DSS and it looks good/is solid. In this particular case - though I bought all OEM Honda parts when available from DSS involving the engine/brakes - I think the pattern part is excellent. A caveat - I bought the part two years ago so I can't really say if the current pattern part is from the same supplier/same quality...
14
« on: October 22, 2025, 09:49:42 AM »
Totally agree! My 400 was quite cranky at low RPM. It didn't take the throttle well and stuttered when held at around 1800-2000 RPM. I pulled disassembled/cleaned/bench synched the carbs and it improved but not to my satisfaction. I pulled them again and cleaned/adjusted more carefully, also finding two distorted emulsion jets (probably the wrong term) that I hadn't noticed the first time. I also cleaned all passages with a guitar string as opposed to carb cleaner/compressed air as I had the first time. I did another bench sync and put the carbs back on. AMAZING difference. Bike was smooth at any RPM and pulled immediately upon opening the throttle with no hesitation.
15
« on: October 15, 2025, 07:01:49 AM »
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