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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
1
« on: Today at 12:00:05 AM »
These days oil pressure gauges have pretty much gone, as have manual dip sticks on many vehicles.
I was advised decades ago that fitting an oil pressure gauge just gives you one more thing to worry about plus the added risk of an oil leak from the pipework.
Back in the day you could buy oil pressure switches for BL cars that had a higher psi operating point (20psi?) if the pressure dropped you would notice the oil light illuminate on your dashboard immediately. (They sometimes flickered when the engine oil was very hot, giving cause for worry!)
Neat looking layout in the photo btw.
2
« on: June 10, 2026, 07:55:39 AM »
I can't say with certainty - I loosened the adjustment screws at the grip and the grip moved easily within the limitation of that travel. But I didn't disconnect the cables. Now that the weather has been a bit warmer, the stiffness is reduced where the spring will now return the throttle but it's still pretty stiff.
Obviously, I need to disconnect the cables to be sure BUT I've also noticed the clutch seems much stiffer than it was last season. I ASSUME it's the cables in both cases so I was looking for some teflon lined versions. It appears the only way to get that for the 400F is to purchase the "raw" cable and make them up using the fittings on the existing cables. I'd rather not do that but the only other "remedy" that might help is lubricating them as has been suggested. I used to do that regularly back in the "old days" (when I used to clean the chain in petrol then put it in a pan of grease melted on the kitchen stove!!) but I haven't needed to lubricate a cable in quite a while! Even the cables on my '73 Norton Commando are teflon-lined!
I can't recall how often I needed to lube the cables back then. I replaced all the cables on the 400 - throttle, clutch, speedo, tach - about two years ago...
On my 400 the tube was split, gripping the throttle made it clamp on the bars, I ended up fitting a new tube IIRC using Silicone a lubricant to keep out water. As you suspect probably the cables, the clutch cable is often reported here as having a short life due to the engine heat & load etc
3
« on: June 09, 2026, 04:36:23 PM »
Is it definetly the cables themselves Mike and not the throttle twist grip tube binding?
4
« on: June 08, 2026, 10:40:14 AM »
I had a similar issue when it came to fitting my 500 tank badges.
I did not want to risk rusting from bare metal.
I used push in plastic tube clips as used on old car badges.
Probably not as secure against theft.
5
« on: June 07, 2026, 02:05:02 PM »
Best wishes for a great 2026 to everyone. My chemo and radiotherapy finishes on 31st December. I'm looking forward to feeling something like normal again. 🤢
Quick update, I saw my consultant for the final scan results a couple of weeks ago and it was all clear! The cancer has gone. Thankyou NHS, they were brilliant.
Great News.👍
6
« on: June 05, 2026, 08:02:59 PM »
It's a work in progress Ken, I'm far from finished!
I bought the Von Haus version (recommended by a member here) as I could not justify the price of a genuine Dremel kit. I don't think Von Haus do an extension lead.
7
« on: June 05, 2026, 03:32:32 PM »
I'm beginning to wonder if this whole build is an AI generated entity, it's so detailed & perfect.😃
8
« on: June 05, 2026, 08:15:52 AM »
Hi Phil, I've used ebay & Amazon, only time I have had the wheels fall to bits is when I've accidenally moved the speed control or applied too much pressure.
I find position 3 on my Von Haus tool is usually about right, I tend to use two wheels at a time. IIRC I found a seller that sells the colours individually. Checking back today that seller has ended the listing.
I tend to use 400, 600 & 1000 most of the time.
Ken might know a supplier of quality versions.
Update I'm assuming you have them mounted the right way round on the shaft.
10
« on: June 04, 2026, 05:38:11 PM »
Before my 400 engine rebuild it took a lot of cranking to get it started, once it had run it would then start easily for the rest of the day. In my case it was poor cold compression.
11
« on: June 04, 2026, 05:34:39 PM »
I think the M8 refers to to spanner size of the nipple, not the thread size
Yes mine are M8 for a ring spanner, thread definitely looks like M7.
12
« on: June 04, 2026, 01:33:51 PM »
Have you tried squirting some oil down the bores, to see if the compression rises to normal, just to rule out valves & head gasket?
What about the rebore option?
13
« on: June 04, 2026, 01:27:55 PM »
I've checked my 400, it measures more like a M7 as McMaz says,
I checked the nipple thread o/d against my M7 thread gauge tool certainly not M8.
14
« on: June 04, 2026, 10:18:47 AM »
Have you identified the thread size you need on your 400F ?
I am not sure if this is correct, internet search says M8 x 1.25 ??
Update looks like M7
15
« on: June 04, 2026, 08:03:14 AM »
I use them on other bikes. It more convenient/faster than futzing around with vacuum or pressure bleeders on such small systems. I have both and use the pressure bleeder for cars but I can bleed motorcycle brakes faster using the bleeder valve when you factor in the time it takes to get the vac or pressure bleeder out, set it up and then put it back away.
When you have used the bleeder valve to get a good air free lever feel, do you then swap back to the standard one or do you leave it in place?
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