Honda-SOHC

Also if you're running resistor plug caps you don't really want a resistor plug as well.

Had some time this afternoon so I made a start on the rack. I was watering a lot of thirsty agaves in the glasshouse but it got a bit warm. They have waited 5 months for a drink so another day won't make much difference.


First.  Refit the 4 nylon shim washers on each end of the bushes that carry the link rod. Hard to know they are there until they fall out during initial cleaning.  The felt seals were installed next followed by the retainers.  I found it easier to use a nut and bolt with some flat washers to squeeze the retainers back in.
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When assembling the components on the link rod, there are two nylon shim washers that go either side of the 'Wheel'. When you force close the throttle, the wheel needs to move freely until it hits the stop.
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Other than that it's fairly easy to assemble, the torsion spring is a bit fiddly to get it stretched and located on the peg.

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Regards
Dave

Same as any polish, abrasive to wipe away oxides without scratching the chrome.  I did look up the  MDSS for it, there's a significant amount of aluminium oxide in there.

When we were kids and poor we would dig up a bit of clay and put that on a wet  cloth to shine up bicycle wheels and then a wipe over with an oily rag.



Regards
Dave

Finally finished the zinc plating.
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I have tried to reuse all original components where possible but there were a few screws that had been chewed up and quite rusty.

I was unable to salvage the M5 screws that hold to the top cover onto the carb bodies, so I plated some small head stainless as screws.  I used a Woods nickel strike first and then into the zinc bath  immediately .
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This modern trivalent yellow passivate is not as good as the old hexavalent stuff. Even with the best cleaning between plating and passivation the colour does fade as bit if you rub it hard enough, but then the old stuff did to some extent.

Regards
Dave

Finally got around to doing the yellow passivate the last few days after struggling with adhesion.

A few words of wisdom for  anyone using the Gateros kit especially the brightener.

DO NOT DUMP IN THE MAXIMUM AMOUNT OF BRIGHTENER FROM THE START

Initially I was aiming for a satin like finish more in keeping with the original so opted to add 4ml brightener instead of the recommended 6ml.  Things were still coming out the bath looking like chrome and the excess brightener film left on the plated items was making the passivate difficult to adhere. So the only thing for it was to do a couple of large items (Speedo bases) to pull some of the brightener out of the bath.(it gets consumed during plating, occluded within the plate and as a surface film).

To succeed with yellow passivate you only need a satin-dull plate coming out of the bath and even that brightens up after passivation.

The key seems to be getting bubble formation in the acid dip before the passivate. With the bright finish and using 5% HCl there were no bubbles at all even after a good minute in the acid, almost like the brightener film was acting as a lacquer.

With much reduced brightener levels in the tank, cleaning off the brightener film becomes easier and bubbles in the pre passivate acid dip make an appearance much quicker.  But you still need to wash it off well.  I have currently settled on using a warm detergent wash for about 5 minutes in the ultrasonic bath followed by a long soak in a jug of water. Followed up by a quick buzz using a mildly and dilute alkali degreaser.( 10% dilution of Elbow Grease Heavy Duty Degreaser).

Here's what they come out the bath before passivation
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Here's after passivation
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Other than the initial frustration it seems relatively straight forward but very time consuming.

I did feedback these observations to Dan at Gateros. Very helpful chap who looks after his customers.

Regards
Dave

They look like aerotight type nuts so should be reusable.

From McMaster-Carr site..
Spring-Stop Locknut
These locknuts withstand heavy vibration similar to distorted-thread nuts, and you can use them over and over. The prongs at the top bend when tightened to create tension for a secure hold. As you remove the locknut, the prongs spring back to their original shape, so you can install the nut again without losing holding power. Also known as Fuji locknuts.

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/90543A110


I wouldn't bother with loctite.

Regards
Dave

Good results are still to come - or not  if the yellow passivate on all the carb bits doesn't rub off.

I have a Speedo base to do and hopefully that might use up some of the brightener and dull things down a bit.

Regards
Dave

By replacing the starter motor with a bulb as described above,the bulb should  light up when you press to the button and go out when you release the button. If it's on all the time then something is stuck.

If the bulb stays lit sometimes on button release
1) sticky button, broken button return spring
2) solenoid sticking.

If 2) then hitting the solenoid with a screwdriver handle might jolt it loose

Worth noting that. If the solenoid sticks the bulb/starter motor will still be getting power even with the ignition off.

Regards
Dave