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Messages - AshimotoK0
1
« on: May 15, 2026, 09:44:38 AM »
I think with candy paint, like the flip paint I used, the more you put on, the colour changes. With the flip paint it got lighter the more you used. I had a nightmare of a job matching up a door that had dropped from its holder... even when you add the laquare it changes slightly again. good luck Ash.
Fully understand and agree.. problem with the CCR supplied paint is that I did spray out cards with it with different numbers of coats but non of them looked anything like close to Honda Candy Gold. The guy at Paints4U in Grimsby reckons if we can find a close match on one of his swatches then I sould be able to match that by applying the desired number of coats. Got to admit Candy Gold is a PITA because I painted my.mates Ariel Square Four in Candy Ruby Red and it was quite straightforward. Very easy to get 'tiger-striping' with Candy Gold. I am not a quitter though.
2
« on: May 14, 2026, 02:52:53 PM »
Phoned Paints4U in Grimsby and he reckons he can help me if I take a panel in. Fingers crossed 'eh. 
4
« on: May 13, 2026, 10:13:00 PM »
Other than rip-off RS Bikepaint has anyone sourced Honda Candy Gold paint? I have a '71CB175K5 to paint. It is Honda's original Candy Gold, later Hondas were painted Candy Starlight Gold and Candy Custom Gold. I sourced some paint from CCR in Sheffield a year or so back ..described as Candy Starlight Gold but it was nothing like Starlight, Custom or Original Honda Gold. I asked the guy today if he could do any better but he tells me has illness in his family so cant assist for a while. The Starlight Gold was for a 500 Tank. I would be happy with Candy Gold Custom for the 175K5 as I compared a NOS fork ear with a NOS 500 Candy Custom fuel tank and it was a pretty close match. Even without clear coat included, RS Bikepaint will be £150 for not a lot of paint ..not good if I cock it up first time. Anyone got any ideas. I dont think you can scan candy paint.
5
« on: May 07, 2026, 08:14:09 PM »
Hi Ash they are all expensive but as you say I might use it for other uses in the future, by the way who do you work for and what do you do ?
I am an electronics design engineer for these guys but I only do 1 to 2 days per week now. https://www.waterhydraulics.co.uk/
6
« on: May 07, 2026, 05:26:12 PM »
I wouldn't use silicone HT lead on the coil fix as I don't think you would get decent bond with the epoxy.
I only quoted the RS components epoxy as we use it where I work it has a quoted high dielectric strength ...but you could use another liquid epoxy if it has a decent electrical spec. It's a great general purpose adhesive though and it can be filled with aluminium powder, silica etc for a whole variety of uses.
Hi Ash is this the epoxy you used on your coils ?
Regards Ken
Yes but it's a bit expensive to just do one set of coils plus we use it at work.
7
« on: May 07, 2026, 12:49:55 PM »
As it turns out Ash I looked back at my order from the Green Spark Plug company and it turns out I actually ordered both red and black 7mm PVC HT lead. Not silicone. So hopefully that should work just fine.
Your idea of turning coils around I think was used by dispatch riders in the 70's Ken. Yea ... I got mine from Green Spark Plug Co. too.
8
« on: May 06, 2026, 08:31:37 PM »
I think Dave has pretty much answered you there Ken.
I usually use 7mm PVC cable or Hypalon and abrade/degrease the surface. Hypalon isn't supposed to good for bonding to rigid epoxy but I have abraded it and found it to be OK with the RS adhesive. I don't think the original PVC cable 'bonded' well to the plastic Honda used anyway.
9
« on: May 06, 2026, 08:23:27 AM »
I wouldn't use silicone HT lead on the coil fix as I don't think you would get decent bond with the epoxy.
I only quoted the RS components epoxy as we use it where I work it has a quoted high dielectric strength ...but you could use another liquid epoxy if it has a decent electrical spec. It's a great general purpose adhesive though and it can be filled with aluminium powder, silica etc for a whole variety of uses.
10
« on: May 02, 2026, 04:01:35 PM »
I have found the tank of the NC30 project to be thick rust inside with very large flakes present. The previous owner took it off the road because the rust kept getting through and into the carbs, stripping NC carbs isn't fun whatsoever.
My usual go-to would be Deox-C as it has been in the past but I know this tank is well beyond that and even if it does remove the rust (and it will take a few attempts) I know the rust will come straight back. I am loathe to use a liner having heard too many bad stories about flaking and being nigh on impossible to fully remove.
I have been in touch with a company I have used previously to remove a dent from the alloy tank of my Triton and who really are excellent called 'Motorcycle Dent Removal'. They have developed a process to remove the rust, prep the tank and to then nickel coat it. They give a lifetime guarantee for their work and the product.
The first question I was asked was is there a liner in the tank because if there was they wouldn't touch it.
I've sent the tank to them, they are located in Pickering, North Yorkshire.
I have asked them to let me know about the condition of the tank following the rust removal process and before they go any further.
I'll report back how it goes.
I have been to that place Dave to get a dent out of a 750 tank. He's pretty awesome and has a lovely set up ...not too far from Mathewsons ... not cheap though .... so interested what he quotes you and comments on liner removal.
11
« on: May 02, 2026, 10:42:01 AM »
AI Overview
Yes, you can use electrolysis (often confused with hydrolysis) to break the bond between a failing tank liner and the steel, effectively removing it. Electrolysis works by using an electric current and an electrolyte solution (like baking soda and water) to turn rust into a "goo" that breaks the adhesive bond, allowing the liner to flake off.
YouTube
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This method is generally most effective when the liner has already begun to delaminate or flake due to underlying rust.
When considering this process, it is important to be aware of several factors:
Process Duration: Electrolysis is often a slow process, sometimes requiring several hours or even days to sufficiently weaken the bond of the old liner.
Safety Precautions: Working with electricity and water requires careful setup to avoid short circuits. Additionally, the process can generate small amounts of hydrogen gas, so performing this in a well-ventilated area away from open flames or sparks is essential.
12
« on: May 02, 2026, 10:39:19 AM »
A solvent that can remove Tank sealant especially Epoxy Resin based ones will almost certainly remove paint I would have thought.
My first thought was to clean out the tank to remove any loose sealant, then fit extra in line filter(s) to catch what passes throught the standard filter arrangement, not a fix but it means you can ride the bike.
Rob has bought my NOS K1 tank to use Ted and just wants to clean out his old tank to see if metal is intact .. then if not perforated, remove rust with a view to selling. His tank was the wrong gold for a K1 anyway.
13
« on: May 02, 2026, 09:14:30 AM »
The product description does not mention anything about being an Epoxy Remover aside from on the tin itself.
It just reads like a repair product to me unless I'm missing something.
Ted,
I agree, looks like the ebay seller has attached the wrong details to the item description.
See previous post back to Ted. Looks pretty clear to me, and probably the chemical I would choose if hydrolysis doesn't work.
(Attachment Link)
Yes I agree it's sealant remover, but looks like the ebay seller has attached the wrong details to the item description.
Please see my previous edited post for the correct details.
I see what you mean now ... but the product being sold does look like remover. I think I would start with hydrolysis with Rob's tank though, just in case the metal is perforated as that remover will definitely trash any paintwork.
14
« on: May 02, 2026, 08:54:07 AM »
The product description does not mention anything about being an Epoxy Remover aside from on the tin itself.
It just reads like a repair product to me unless I'm missing something.
Ted,
I agree, looks like the ebay seller has attached the wrong details to the item description.
See previous post back to Ted. Looks pretty clear to me, and probably the chemical I would choose if hydrolysis doesn't work. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
15
« on: May 02, 2026, 08:35:51 AM »
The product description does not mention anything about being an Epoxy Remover aside from on the tin itself.
It just reads like a repair product to me unless I'm missing something.
I think they probably do liner coatings too Ted but this is their remover product. That chemical it contains is listed as a softener for epoxy etc. It's related to tetrahydrofuran (THF), which I have used in the past to soften epoxy type potting of electronics assemblies.
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