Honda-SOHC
General => New Member Introductions => Topic started by: mattsz on October 23, 2018, 01:11:53 AM
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Greetings all, from Maine, USA...
In two days, a '77 CB400f (21K miles) arrives at my door - I'm taking custody from a friend who sadly cannot keep it. I have no experience with this type of bike (and not much with any other type, either!), so I'm hoping to find some useful info to help me along. I did ride the bike three years ago, and it seemed to run pretty well then, but the bike has been in storage for the previous two years, and I know it wasn't prepped beforehand, so I'm imagining issues with the fuel tank and carbs right off. I'll basically be moving it right into my own storage for the winter, so I'm looking to help it along with some proper preparation.
I have no print resources to guide me; I did download what Honda manuals I could find, but they're a bit short on details. I am in the middle of reading through Nurse Julie's engine rebuild thread, and have learned that I probably should be very careful about even trying to turn the engine over after two idle years - although I am told the bike was stored indoors, completely out of the weather.
Advice on what a beginner might do to stabilize and protect it for the winter would be most welcome!
~ Matt
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Welcome Matt,
You will find all the help ypu need on here and your forum over in USA
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php
Good luck with the bike :)
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It depends on how far you want to go, winter is a great time to get the carbs off and send them for cleaning or you can drain them for storage then inspect when the days get longer again. Drain screws can be a pain to remove if they've been sitting though. The inlet manifold rubbers and airbox rubber may well be hardened up, so they might replacing before reassembly if you go the removal route. I have generally found if the bike starts, idles and runs then 500 miles and some Redex fuel additive is a more fun alternative to disassembly of the carbs.
i'd drain the fuel tank before winter too and have a good look at the state of the rust. The manual reckons changing the oil before winter as well.
the electrics might not have benefited much from standing around depending on how it was stored before, so may need some cleaning up (switches, connectors etc), that's a fun winter job along with routine service bits like timing and valve clearances. The battery may well be shot as well though if you have a spare knocking about for testing I'd wait to buy a nice new one in the spring.
I have a CB450 arriving in a few weeks so this will be part of my campaign.
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Welcome:
All the manuals you should need are on here in my dropbox links on this site.
CB400F PARTS
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u51uf0p1dv6m29q/Honda%20CB400%20F%20Parts%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
CB400F PARTS USA Searchable
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j0hysqub5jsfg46/400-4%20Part%20List%201975%20searcheable.pdf?dl=0
CB350/400F SHOP MANUALWORKSHOP
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1n3w5433jkph228/350F%20400F%20_4%20Shop%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
CB350F Part Manual
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7pieydvznvy7nhp/CB350_F_F1%20Full.pdf?dl=0
CB400F DEALER SETUP INSTRUCTIONS .. RARE !!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewl1d9td0nhxeya/CB400_set-up_man.pdf?dl=0
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Welcome to the forum and have fun. If you rode it only 3 years ago that’s a big plus.
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Welcome to the forum.
I know someone living in RI who variously takes bikes into and out of winter storage, along with bikes stored for naval / military personnel while on tour's of duty. We had a think through specifically about the engine oil during such periods and came up with;- if the bike's been standing for extended period to heat the motor gently with external fan/electric heater to get it warm, drain the oil and filter while warm to remove as much as possible. Then replace both to allow any turnover to be completed on new oil.
If you are not going to run it at all, the above procedure is still good as any used oil normally contains acids from the byproducts of running on petrol. If this is removed before winter and you don't start it then it offers the best internal protection during the winter. Just disable the fuel and remove plugs then bring the engine up to oil pressure by turning over to distribute the oil around the engine, then leave it alone. After one winter it can then be started on this oil to recomission.
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Thanks for the welcome, guys! So there's a "US version" of this forum, too? I guess I'll investigate there, too!
I suppose the advice I'm looking for applies to any motorcycle, regarding what to do. I'll apply the usual cautions regarding attempting to turn the engine over, etc. An oil/filter change, definitely - plain old dino oil for storage oil?
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Welcome Matt.
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Welcome Matt
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Welcome to the forum Matt.
We have just returned from our holiday in Maine, I'm envious of you, you have some great roads and scenery to ride a 400/4. I think everything has been said in terms of advice, let us know how you get on and please post a photo of the bike.
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That oil will be fine, their spec is just for mineral oil but with regular changes in general use, it'll not give you problems.
I don't know what others think, but a small amount of synthetic two stroke oil in each bore also (it doesn't appear to go sticky like some alternatives when left) but won't cause you any problems either when recommissioned.
Where are you located in Maine?
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Thanks guys and gals! I'll have a chat tomorrow with the guy who has been keeping the bike for the owner - find out if anything was done before or during storage (although the owner says he was in a "bad place" two years ago, and he just put it on the center stand and walked away from it). I'm hopeful I'll be able to turn it over easily; a look into the tank and carbs will settle whether I'll try to run it...
I live on the coast of Maine, in Camden, about a four hour drive north of Boston. I've worked on the water since I moved here in 1990...
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Hi Matt and welcome.
I was in Portsmouth in '91 with the British military right after the first gulf war. The locals there gave us a terrific welcome and treated us very well.
Beautiful location and one to which I hope to be able to return one day.
It made me laugh that the locals hated their southern neighbours so much so that they referred to them as 'Massholes!'
Enjoy your new bike and remember "Live Free or Die"
Peter
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There are some great pubs in Camden.
Oh, you mean there’s another one?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I'm only a few miles from Lincoln, even closer to Boston and even closer still to New York........oh, you mean USA not Lincolnshire 😀😀😀
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Sadly ...most of the great pubs in Camden have gone or been ruined.
If the bike has only stood a few years, it should be pretty much OK. But a careful approach is better than stuffing on the jump cables and cranking it over.
If anything is siezed or stuck, it's better to find out when you turn it over with a spanner on the end of the crank so you can feel what it is doing. Pop the plugs out when you do this.
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SumpMagnet - last time I rode it (three years ago), the e-start was nowhere to be found anyway. I'll pull the plugs and add some lubrication to the cylinders and take it slow. The owner says it's been kicked over occasionally during storage, but I'm not sure what that means, exactly - I can ask tomorrow when the friend who stored it for him drops it off.
Years ago in another life when my wife and I were musicians, we toured the UK and one venue host introduced her as being an up-and-coming "star" from Camden Town - worth a good laugh as she wasn't any of the three! Well, she's a star to me, of course...
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That oil will be fine, their spec is just for mineral oil but with regular changes in general use, it'll not give you problems.
To be clear: "mineral" oil = conventional, non-synthetic?
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That's it, the old fossil stuff ;)
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That's it, the old fossil stuff ;)
Thanks!
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I've finished Nurse Julie's engine rebuild thread, well done! A valuable resource, to be sure.
Comments were made regarding the usefulness of the Honda service manual and Haynes manual; on my initial perusal of the Honda download version, I find it light on a lot of details. I've got a Clymer book on the way, for better or worse. Do you guys think I'd be well served by obtaining a Haynes book as well? If the Honda manual is useful, I'd really like to have a hard copy to work with...
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Hard copies are rare and pricey, Haynes is no better than Honda
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Well, I've already committed to the Clymer, so we'll see what happens!
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My comments on my engine build thread about the usefulness of the Haynes and Honda Workshop manuals were based mainly on them assuming that people carrying out the work had a good mechanical knowledge base. They tell you to do something but do not go into detail on the reason why you need to do a certain thing, or in a certain way, or what to look for whilst doing it or how to analyse if something is correct or not. I'm sure if you have a good general mechanical knowledge and know how, which I did not really have as far as engine building was concerned, you will be fine.
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Should have said that the Honda manual is the same as the dealer manual and assumed you are a trained Honda mechanic. They were not really designed for sale to the general public but to none franchised dealers
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Understood, thanks for clarifying...
The bike has arrived! Should I continue my introductory comments and questions here, or start a thread somewhere else?
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Understood, thanks for clarifying...
The bike has arrived! Should I continue my introductory comments and questions here, or start a thread somewhere else?
Start a new thread Matt, either on the 400/4 board or project board. Let's see some photos too, we love photos 😀😀
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Will do! See you there, I hope...
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Welcome to the sohc forum. Looking forward to hearing your progress.
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Thanks Jon, and everyone! Progress will be slow, I can assure you...