Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: WestYorkshireBiker on July 11, 2020, 06:02:45 PM
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Just starting on my first ever restoration. Following the excellent Hondaman book as I go. Going Ok so far. Any tips on getting the air filter and carbs off as that's tomorrows job!!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200711/3a205bde82f9983c25e326b3916fb8cf.jpg)
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Brute force, ignorance and a big box of esastoplast, prefer fabric ones they soalk up the oil and hide the blood
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Use a hot air gun to warm the rubbers.
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Brute force, ignorance and a big box of esastoplast, prefer fabric ones they soalk up the oil and hide the blood
Yeah that's what I thought. Have to get the hairdryer out to warm the rubber inlets I guess.
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Nice looking K1, Airbox is easy on a 750 sohc. Comes out the left side and if you take the bottom part off, comes out even easier ;)
I have never read that book, or any other book :o
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Nice looking K1, Airbox is easy on a 750 sohc. Comes out the left side and if you take the bottom part off, comes out even easier ;)
I have never read that book, or any other book :o
Thanks. I got the bottom bit off so I'll do the top from the left (as I did the bottom on the right!!) tomorrow. I do like reading a good manual before doing work (nerd alert). Also your engine stand is finally being used!! I'll probably be in touch over the next few weeks as I'll be needing some engine work doing I suspect. The bike has a K6 with the K1 in bits (no idea why tbh at the moment).! So I'm looking to rebuild the K1 and get her back to her former glory (and have matching engine/frame etc). Cheers.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200711/901f3fa8db706631ecc841cecf6cf98c.jpg)
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Now looks more like a 'naked' bike after a few choice words with the carbs and oil filter!!!! Bloody bolt was rounded and wouldn't budge without a chisel!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200712/f0fb55c4796ce662750f25a5cd9ff5d9.jpg)
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Good luck with your project, do you have the spec for your engine stand? I could do with one of those for my K7 engine rebuild.
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I got it from @Nurse Julie on this very forum. Thanks.
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do you have the spec for your engine stand? I could do with one of those for my K7 engine rebuild.
Trigger may be along soon to offer to flog you one - I can recommend them, weirdly, as well as my CB750 mine also fit my CL450 engine.
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do you have the spec for your engine stand? I could do with one of those for my K7 engine rebuild.
Trigger may be along soon to offer to flog you one - I can recommend them, weirdly, as well as my CB750 mine also fit my CL450 engine.
Yeah sorry it's Trigger who makes them. Very well built. Will save me a ton of hassle I reckon 
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Good luck with your project, do you have the spec for your engine stand? I could do with one of those for my K7 engine rebuild.
Yea nice looking project there and ...... another Yorkshireman ;D ;D
This was one of my 'lockdown' projects. a DIY stand made with big boys Meccano ... I made brackets to suit engines from S90 up to CB750..totally adjustable and has been a absolute boon for engine building.
[attachimg=1]
Manuals here if you dont have them (Genuine & Haynes). The MEGA downoad one is he one I use most.
HONDA CB750 SOHC FOUR
MEGA CB750K /F PARTS MANUALS SHOP MANUALS VJMC ARTICLES ETC ETC … WELL WORTH DOWNLOADING. MASSIVE DOWLOAD THOUGH!!
NOTE : This starts with the Service manual and the Parts lists are later on in the download beginning with later model Parts list K3->K5 and then K0->K2 . Please PM me for the very early Sandcast 4/69 Parts Manual link as it is not included in the links on here.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/anpzqn2r55f1o9k/CB750%20Mega%20Parts%20Service%20and%20More.pdf?dl=0
CB750 K0-.K8, F SHOP MANUAL
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nxt8v8xcvnvnpz0/Honda%20CB750%20SOHC%20K0-K8%20F1-F3%20Shop%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
CB750K Haynes Manual
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zxg25whp5gyr97a/CB750_HNS_Shop_Man.pdf?dl=0
CB750 F2-3 Parts Manual
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l5oaiythibeg7dm/AAAwXNQKWFIHdDJmfRVBGRs8a?dl=0
CB750F1 PARTS MANUAL
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwpqt3rod8m01am/Honda%20CB750%20Four%20CB%20750%20F1%20Illustrated%20Parts%20List%20Diagram%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
CB750 SERVICE BULLETINS -- Collected over many years by Bryan Jones ... MASSIVE THANKS BRYAN
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xkkwyl5lteti976/CB750%20Service%20Bulletins.pdf?dl=0
CB750K7 Dealer Setup instructions ..courtest AndyD
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7dt3z3pd5u37snh/CB750%20setup.pdf?dl=0
CB750 Sandcast Restorers Reference
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s391rvkoylest0z/AAAhoNiIXbv8P_zxRNGS1Hvqa?dl=0
CB750K6
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/Catalog/Honda/0750_CB750K6_Microfiches_Honda/parts_list_0750_CB750K6.html
CB750K7 K8
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/Catalog/Honda/0750_CB750K7_K8_Microfiches_Honda/parts_list_0750_CB750K7_K8.html
CB750F2 F3
Archive of Greenbushacres site with CB750 Service Bulletins etc.
https://web.archive.org/web/20150904205939/http://greenbushacres.ca/Motorcycles/Technical/Technical.html
CB750 HISTORY AND SPECS
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bt8gpfiu2h3n2kq/Honda%20CB750%20CB%20750%20SOHC4%20History%20%26%20Specifications.pdf?dl=0
CR750 Parts List
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w128vp6hqpxgpyr/HondaCR750partslist.pdf?dl=0
CB750 1970 Test MCM
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4zwa2q1lpk3s63r/CB750%201970%20UK%20report.pdf?dl=0
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Good luck with your project, do you have the spec for your engine stand? I could do with one of those for my K7 engine rebuild.
Yea nice looking project there and ...... another Yorkshireman ;D ;D
This was one of my 'lockdown' projects. a DIY stand made with big boys Meccano ... I made brackets to suit engines from S90 up to CB750..totally adjustable and has been a absolute boon for engine building.
(Attachment Link)
Manuals here if you dont have them (Genuine & Haynes). The MEGA downoad one is he one I use most.
HONDA CB750 SOHC FOUR
MEGA CB750K /F PARTS MANUALS SHOP MANUALS VJMC ARTICLES ETC ETC … WELL WORTH DOWNLOADING. MASSIVE DOWLOAD THOUGH!!
NOTE : This starts with the Service manual and the Parts lists are later on in the download beginning with later model Parts list K3->K5 and then K0->K2 . Please PM me for the very early Sandcast 4/69 Parts Manual link as it is not included in the links on here.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/anpzqn2r55f1o9k/CB750%20Mega%20Parts%20Service%20and%20More.pdf?dl=0
CB750 K0-.K8, F SHOP MANUAL
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nxt8v8xcvnvnpz0/Honda%20CB750%20SOHC%20K0-K8%20F1-F3%20Shop%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
CB750K Haynes Manual
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zxg25whp5gyr97a/CB750_HNS_Shop_Man.pdf?dl=0
CB750 F2-3 Parts Manual
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l5oaiythibeg7dm/AAAwXNQKWFIHdDJmfRVBGRs8a?dl=0
CB750F1 PARTS MANUAL
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwpqt3rod8m01am/Honda%20CB750%20Four%20CB%20750%20F1%20Illustrated%20Parts%20List%20Diagram%20Manual.pdf?dl=0
CB750 SERVICE BULLETINS -- Collected over many years by Bryan Jones ... MASSIVE THANKS BRYAN
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xkkwyl5lteti976/CB750%20Service%20Bulletins.pdf?dl=0
CB750K7 Dealer Setup instructions ..courtest AndyD
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7dt3z3pd5u37snh/CB750%20setup.pdf?dl=0
CB750 Sandcast Restorers Reference
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s391rvkoylest0z/AAAhoNiIXbv8P_zxRNGS1Hvqa?dl=0
CB750K6
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/Catalog/Honda/0750_CB750K6_Microfiches_Honda/parts_list_0750_CB750K6.html
CB750K7 K8
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/Catalog/Honda/0750_CB750K7_K8_Microfiches_Honda/parts_list_0750_CB750K7_K8.html
CB750F2 F3
Archive of Greenbushacres site with CB750 Service Bulletins etc.
https://web.archive.org/web/20150904205939/http://greenbushacres.ca/Motorcycles/Technical/Technical.html
CB750 HISTORY AND SPECS
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bt8gpfiu2h3n2kq/Honda%20CB750%20CB%20750%20SOHC4%20History%20%26%20Specifications.pdf?dl=0
CR750 Parts List
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w128vp6hqpxgpyr/HondaCR750partslist.pdf?dl=0
CB750 1970 Test MCM
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4zwa2q1lpk3s63r/CB750%201970%20UK%20report.pdf?dl=0
Thanks Ash. Got all the links and bought the Hondaman book for a desktop reference. Awesome stand!! Just going through the wiring at the moment just to get an idea of what goes where. Bit lost where this wire goes. Looks to have been unplugged for ages as it's corroded. Coil wires look Ok (been hacked at some point).
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200713/75804255d921734716e335f369972216.jpg)
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What's the colour of the wires ? There should be a double bullet connector like that with Black/white tracer which is +12v feed to both coils from the kill switch. If its black may be horn 12v feed. A long time since I wired a 750 though so maybe someone else can chip in.
This may help
[attachimg=1]
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What's the colour of the wires ? There should be a double bullet connector like that with Black/white tracer which is +12v feed to both coils from the kill switch. If its black may be horn 12v feed. A long time since I wired a 750 though so maybe someone else can chip in.
It's black. I'll check the horn but it looked to have the earth and live wired up. As the could have been hacked at some point ( I managed to trace the wires for the live to both). I'll check again tomorrow as I'm knackered now. Onwards and upwards...
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See modified post above for colour diagram
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See modified post above for colour diagram
Thanks Ash. I was trying to find that but couldn't remember where it was.(the mega manual I guess!).
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See modified post above for colour diagram
Thanks Ash. I was trying to find that but couldn't remember where it was.(the mega manual I guess!).
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Wiring diagram from USA SOHC.net site (note no feed from + battery to wiring loom so that's an error).
Its not the Horn wire BTW and there is a double black in the loom. Someone else is bound to know who has wired one recently
[attachimg=1]
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What's the colour of the wires ? There should be a double bullet connector like that with Black/white tracer which is +12v feed to both coils from the kill switch. If its black may be horn 12v feed. A long time since I wired a 750 though so maybe someone else can chip in.
It's black. I'll check the horn but it looked to have the earth and live wired up. As the could have been hacked at some point ( I managed to trace the wires for the live to both). I'll check again tomorrow as I'm knackered now. Onwards and upwards...
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If it is Just Black then, it goes nowhere ;)
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What's the colour of the wires ? There should be a double bullet connector like that with Black/white tracer which is +12v feed to both coils from the kill switch. If its black may be horn 12v feed. A long time since I wired a 750 though so maybe someone else can chip in.
It's black. I'll check the horn but it looked to have the earth and live wired up. As the could have been hacked at some point ( I managed to trace the wires for the live to both). I'll check again tomorrow as I'm knackered now. Onwards and upwards...
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If it is Just Black then, it goes nowhere ;)
. Btw someone sent me a PM last night about the stand so I passed on yours and Julie's details. 
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Cheers,
On the K1 there was the late engine and a early type. You can tell from the outside as the early type had M6 bolts with washers and the later (that was used on the early K2) has M6 flanged type.
You can not build one of these engines from a manual or any other book ;)
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Cheers,
On the K1 there was the late engine and a early type. You can tell from the outside as the early type had M6 bolts with washers and the later (that was used on the early K2) has M6 flanged type.
You can not build one of these engines from a manual or any other book ;)
Nice bit of info Trig. I'll check tonight and see which I have. I'm taking shed loads of photos and marking up where I can as I disassemble tbh. I remember from my days messing with cars that the old 'Haynes' manuals can only ever be used as a guide tbh.
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More dismantling then ..bugger. Found a crack in the top fork yoke. Balls.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/0616e11b9b6b223cd525f3a6ac390b55.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/c71bde585ec943b3a856c34579ec27c6.jpg)
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Bet the "D" washer is missing
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Bet the "D" washer is missing
Not sure what that is but thanks. I'll add this to the shopping list. Along with new tank, wire harness (possibly), clock faces... etc etc.
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Where the pinch bolt goes through the top yoke to clamp the fork tube there is supposed to be a washer with a flat edge so it looks like a D. This is supposed to stop you tightening the bolt too much and breaking the yoke.
I think they have been discontinued by honda but somebody on here was making them
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Where the pinch bolt goes through the top yoke to clamp the fork tube there is supposed to be a washer with a flat edge so it looks like a D. This is supposed to stop you tightening the bolt too much and breaking the yoke.
I think they have been discontinued by honda but somebody on here was making them
Brilliant. Thanks Bryanj.
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Bet the "D" washer is missing
Not sure what that is but thanks. I'll add this to the shopping list. Along with new tank, wire harness (possibly), clock faces... etc etc. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
These little chaps, ignore the brake adjuster screw 'n' spring......
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Bet the "D" washer is missing
Not sure what that is but thanks. I'll add this to the shopping list. Along with new tank, wire harness (possibly), clock faces... etc etc. Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
These little chaps, ignore the brake adjuster screw 'n' spring......
Ahh. Thanks. Checked and there is a washer there (gap is about 2mm). I'll mic it when I get it off as another post mentions the correct thickness. Anyway cheers for the info! (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200714/0776fd603e3375a2b4495ab3035b89cc.jpg)
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Note: Drawn by Ashimoto , Checked S.B. Devotion ;D
[attachimg=1]
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Note: Drawn by Ashimoto , Checked S.B. Devotion ;D
(Attachment Link)
Awesome!! Thanks Ash 
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Note: Drawn by Ashimoto , Checked S.B. Devotion ;D
(Attachment Link)
Awesome!! Thanks Ash 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJ_LLwQ7Pck
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Bit more 'progress' on the old girl. Was thinking about the engine and how to paint it. Once stripped down do you vapour blast first I guess. But what was the factory paint on the engine. I'm keeping her as factory as I can tbh. Thanks.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200725/50539758a9011b99372adf2f0008bb50.jpg)
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Never vapour blast a engine, you will be asking for trouble using vapour as it contains glass bead.
I build engines for a living and have found the best way is a acid dip that has chemicals suited to cast alloy ;)
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A nice looking project.. do you get over to squires cafe? Plenty of nice old jap bikes to look at on a thursday eve through the summer
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Never vapour blast a engine, you will be asking for trouble using vapour as it contains glass bead.
I build engines for a living and have found the best way is a acid dip that has chemicals suited to cast alloy ;)
Thanks Trig. I read about this and honestly wasn't sure what's best. I've got the origional K1 which came with the bike. So the engine ,(K6) in the frame is being replaced. One of the K1 linings is cracked (not stripped it down yet so don't know what else is wrong). Is it Ok if I pm you at some point in the future as I'll be needing your services etc. Thanks.
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A nice looking project.. do you get over to squires cafe? Plenty of nice old jap bikes to look at on a thursday eve through the summer
Never been but planning to. I've an 'modern' SV650 so thought of popping over.
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A nice looking project.. do you get over to squires cafe? Plenty of nice old jap bikes to look at on a thursday eve through the summer
Never been but planning to. I've an 'modern' SV650 so thought of popping over.
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Any day is a good day to visit squires...but thurs night is classic bike night and there is loads to see....japs, british... italian... def worth a visit, you’ll be hooked once you’ve been :D
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A nice looking project.. do you get over to squires cafe? Plenty of nice old jap bikes to look at on a thursday eve through the summer
Never been but planning to. I've an 'modern' SV650 so thought of popping over.
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Any day is a good day to visit squires...but thurs night is classic bike night and there is loads to see....japs, british... italian... def worth a visit, you’ll be hooked once you’ve been :D
Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.
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Never vapour blast a engine, you will be asking for trouble using vapour as it contains glass bead.
I build engines for a living and have found the best way is a acid dip that has chemicals suited to cast alloy ;)
Thanks Trig. I read about this and honestly wasn't sure what's best. I've got the origional K1 which came with the bike. So the engine ,(K6) in the frame is being replaced. One of the K1 linings is cracked (not stripped it down yet so don't know what else is wrong). Is it Ok if I pm you at some point in the future as I'll be needing your services etc. Thanks.
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The K6 to K1 barrels and liners are not interchangeable and the head is different. You will see the differences once you have the engines stripped so, keep all engine parts separate, one on one side of the workshop and the other on the other side ;)
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Never vapour blast a engine, you will be asking for trouble using vapour as it contains glass bead.
I build engines for a living and have found the best way is a acid dip that has chemicals suited to cast alloy ;)
Thanks Trig. I read about this and honestly wasn't sure what's best. I've got the origional K1 which came with the bike. So the engine ,(K6) in the frame is being replaced. One of the K1 linings is cracked (not stripped it down yet so don't know what else is wrong). Is it Ok if I pm you at some point in the future as I'll be needing your services etc. Thanks.
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The K6 to K1 barrels and liners are not interchangeable and the head is different. You will see the differences once you have the engines stripped so, keep all engine parts separate, one on one side of the workshop and the other on the other side ;)
Didn't think so. Already got two spaces in the garage for K1 and K6. Ta pal.
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So I found these marks when cleaning the K1 head. The head came separately from the bike (as did the engine) but is this machinable or scrap! Thanks.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/2207d4c7abc0a77fc8c5b18c71c49dcd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/72d0232bf256fae8e04eaedbf85dcb56.jpg)
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A head skim and those valve seats need a regrind, also check the valve guides . Are you sure it is a K1 head ?
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A head skim and those valve seats need a regrind, also check the valve guides . Are you sure it is a K1 head ?
It just came with the original engine in bits as the bike has a K6 in it. The bike is a 1971 but not sure tbh. What else will show if it's a K1 or not?
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A head skim and those valve seats need a regrind, also check the valve guides . Are you sure it is a K1 head ?
It just came with the original engine in bits as the bike has a K6 in it. The bike is a 1971 but not sure tbh. What else will show if it's a K1 or not?
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Head and barrels are different on a K1 to K6 ;)
Show me a picture of the head side on and the top face and a front, top and side picture of the barrels and i will tell you if they are K1.
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Thanks. Head has a K3 stamp in it but not sure if that helps!
A head skim and those valve seats need a regrind, also check the valve guides . Are you sure it is a K1 head ?
It just came with the original engine in bits as the bike has a K6 in it. The bike is a 1971 but not sure tbh. What else will show if it's a K1 or not?
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Head and barrels are different on a K1 to K6 ;)
Show me a picture of the head side on and the top face and a front, top and side picture of the barrels and i will tell you if they are K1.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/78be726e82b0383d823187511d11b7d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/ab5868d9d81aa6f54a16b2677c7780f8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/8a618cae7e9aa95da33c435cd211558d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/4f8355f703385df1b410435f3bea7996.jpg)
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Barrels are not K1, Head looks K1 but, i need a picture straight down of the top of the head
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Barrels are not K1, Head looks K1 but, i need a picture straight down of the top of the head
Like this?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/78918ec27082e76489f0c66b6cb2ad72.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/9e4da9e8551c29cc7f35784560b52da3.jpg)
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Could you post a clearer picture of this jet for Trigger please. I've tried blowing it up on my phone, (the pic that is 😁😁😁) but it's quite blurry
[attachimg=1]
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Could you post a clearer picture of this jet for Trigger please. I've tried blowing it up on my phone, (the pic that is 

) but it's quite blurry
(Attachment Link)
Here you go. I removed the o ring and placed it next to the jet.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/cd33171a536309b28ee066932cffdad5.jpg)
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Yep, That is a K1 head with a pepper pot jet. DO NOT Damage the jet as these cost ££££ ;)
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Thanks. Appreciate the help. On with the bottom end tomorrow. Micrometer at the ready! (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200810/58bc15c7aed9b1651fc0cdb45e036502.jpg)
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Looks like that needs a new set of gearbox bearings, remove all the oil way bungs and give it a good clean ;)
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Looks like that needs a new set of gearbox bearings, remove all the oil way bungs and give it a good clean ;)
Yeah it's getting all bearings / o-rings etc etc replaced. Been stood for God knows how long. No rust I can see as it had some oil in but not much. Total restoration and rebuild.
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Looks like that needs a new set of gearbox bearings, remove all the oil way bungs and give it a good clean ;)
Yeah it's getting all bearings / o-rings etc etc replaced. Been stood for God knows how long. No rust I can see as it had some oil in but not much. Total restoration and rebuild.
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So I was looking at the con rods today and found that none of the usual 1,2 or 3 markings are stamped on. Any idea what the stamps in the pic actually mean (there's no markings on the other side of the rods). I've got the chart to get the correct bearings using the rod and crank journal from the Hondaman book and some plastigauge but not sure why all the rods have these different markings!
Yours sincerely Worried from West Yorkshire.
(Also not sure if it's a '2 or 7' in the pic)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200812/224f8a8f017708dee3a03689650e4a4e.jpg)
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Early con rods are weighted differently to the later type and have different markings.
Make sure you know what journal they cam from and what way round that they came off. Do not get these mixed up ;)
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Early con rods are weighted differently to the later type and have different markings.
Make sure you know what journal they cam from and what way round that they came off. Do not get these mixed up ;)
Thanks again Trig. I've marked all the rods as I took them off so all ok there. Just got thrown by the lack of markings! Ta.
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Does the other side of the rod have Japanese markings on them ?
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Does the other side of the rod have Japanese markings on them ?
Not that I could see. They were all blank.
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Any markings that look like these
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Any markings that look like these
I'll check on Friday but thanks for the info.
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These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ..... Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.
[attachimg=1]
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These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ..... Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Anyone know if the tap size for cylinder head studs is M7(or8??) * 1.25 pitch. Need some taps as one snapped off and needs TLC! Hoping to be able to drill / tap out as it's too far gone.
Failing that's what's best helicoil, vcoil or something else. Thanks.
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They are M8 X 1.25.
Why are you trying to take them out ? Leave them alone or you will be looking for a engineering firm that has a spark eroder ( EDM machine ) to remove the broken bits.
Some of these stud holes can not be heli-coiled as they are a oil way for oil to be feed to the head ;)
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They are M8 X 1.25.
Why are you trying to take them out ? Leave them alone or you will be looking for a engineering firm that has a spark eroder ( EDM machine ) to remove the broken bits.
Some of these stud holes can not be heli-coiled as they are a oil way for oil to be feed to the head ;)
Thanks. Replacing as the engine has been split and sat in a barn exposed for God knows how long and they have seen better day tbh.
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It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
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It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!
Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/0606da0b7cef40ea32a33178b65efce5.jpg)
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It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!
Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/0606da0b7cef40ea32a33178b65efce5.jpg)
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Successful day. Finally got the K6 lump out. Onwards and upwards..(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/4ae95eb26f5bbefabe19c7782903ca9c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/389e1d6066e2893b65de7cdf769190ad.jpg)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
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It can be a very expensive hobby trying to remove these. Stud A is still available at about £15 each and there are 12 of those. Stud B has not been available for many years. Add in the cost of spark eroding at £25 a pop and you are looking at a shed load of money, just to replace something that with a good clean could be good to go ;)
Thanks. Another question! I'm struggling to remove the front engine mount bolt. All the others came out no probs. It's just a straight through bolt right? Can't turn the head after heat and brute force. Don't want to get the big hammer out either just yet!
Edit: nevermind. Bolt sheared off despite my heat cycling and gentle persuasion.... Thanks.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200829/0606da0b7cef40ea32a33178b65efce5.jpg)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
Successful day. Finally got the K6 lump out. Onwards and upwards..(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/4ae95eb26f5bbefabe19c7782903ca9c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200830/389e1d6066e2893b65de7cdf769190ad.jpg)
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Mmmm oily...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200912/5b0cbd3a2978ce519dc1a272df332665.jpg)
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
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These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ..... Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Hey. Been away a while I'm now back on the rebuild. So I'm still stuck with identifying the con rod bearings. I've got the journal ones worked out but for the con rods that came out if the engine I don't know how to find the shell colour as the rods are not marked as per the manuals. e.g the rods all have '2/29 (or 28)' marked on one side and nothing on the other side. All rods are marked 'S30F' and looking at the bullitins look like the 'new' type with the numbers on. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/13bb8ed65e0e30953ec299679807899c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/9b8c925580de36e46b09e9636fa4d21f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/26ec502d75e578d0fed596052cedf8a7.jpg)
Sent from my AC2003 using Tapatalk
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These are the two Service Bulletins you need ..they came originally from BryanJ..... Why Honda never ammended the main Shop Manual with this information beats me. My original '69 diecast crank had the Japanese chracaters stamped on the con-rods but yours are something different.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Hey. Been away a while I'm now back on the rebuild. So I'm still stuck with identifying the con rod bearings. I've got the journal ones worked out but for the con rods that came out if the engine I don't know how to find the shell colour as the rods are not marked as per the manuals. e.g the rods all have '2/29 (or 28)' marked on one side and nothing on the other side. All rods are marked 'S30F' and looking at the bullitins look like the 'new' type with the numbers on. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/13bb8ed65e0e30953ec299679807899c.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/9b8c925580de36e46b09e9636fa4d21f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/26ec502d75e578d0fed596052cedf8a7.jpg)
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.... however I've just noticed that (in very very faint scribble) there is a '3' on each of the what I thought were blank sides! So think one answered my own question. (Note to self: get new glasses)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210406/1a2b7d43c85529dfe64ceb71f095dde8.jpg)
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