Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: Phatcol on August 03, 2009, 11:47:44 PM
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Hello all! After years of running Brittish iron (Bonnies mostly), I decided it would be good to join the 197-'s, and get a CB750!
Great bike, my F1; should've done it earlier, etc, but the little buggers have been at it! In trying bo hotwire it, they cut the wires to/from the ignition switch, and pulled off the connector from the back of the switch. I'm reconnecting the wires direct to the connectors on the back of the plastic connector block at the ignition switch, but seem to have lost power to the pilot light, and tail light. Can anyone tell me if these are both fed from the same fuse? The fuse seems ok, and I'm wondering if my guess at the wiring to the switch is wrong (funnilly, everything else works ok though).
If anyone with an F1 could help with how the wires are arranged in the block, it'd be a great help, and get me back on the road again ;D!
Anyhow, cheers to a really good, and informative forum!
Phatcol.
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Have a look at this, had a similar problem on my F1, it turned out to be the fuse block connections in the end. Yours could be different, the only real way to do it is to follow the wiring.
Cheers
Den
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z244/DennisMcc/CB750FUKSWEDENEUROPEANTYPWIRING.jpg)
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Here you go had my camera handy first photo is from right handside of bike 1976 F1(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee75/mcpuffett/f1ignitionblock001.jpg) (http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee75/mcpuffett/f1ignitionblock002.jpg)hope these help you ;), cheers Mick.
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Cheers chaps, the piccies especially will help me get that bit done, and if that doesn't do it, then it must be the fuse box right enough! I'm working the next few days, so it looks like a straightforward job (hopefully!) for Friday.
Thanks again,
Colin.
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I had problems with my ignition switch too. The PO had removed the connector block, leaving the spade ends exposed. When I started the bike and increased the rev's, vibrations from the bike loosened the spade ends, causing it to arc across two wires resulting in the main fuse constantly blowing.
This happened the evening before My wife and I were going away to Scarborough for the weekend.
Caused major panic. :o :o
Andy
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by the way in case you didn't know it you can get new connectors to go inside the connector block but the plastic blocks can be hard to get the right ones. Might end up being easyer than splicing wires :-\
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Try these guys
www.vehicleproducts.co.uk
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Thanks again guys;Andy especially; I've had a look at that site, and recon it might be better to wire up a new connector block that trying to guess the right size of connectors, and hoping for the best!
Cheers all, Col ;D
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Hi, I use these suppliers a lot, genrally very fast good service. One word of advice though, the plastic casings won't fit with the standard Honda ones or indeed if it's the same as the 550 any of the switches / electrics mountings etc. However using a small technical screwdriver its quite easy to push back the latch on the back of each terminal and remove all the metal connectors and replace them with new ones, for the ignition switch I think you'll be wanting 6 X female lock and latch 6mm blade terminals - I'd buy a few spares as they can often come appart on other parts of the bike as well - I'm thinking the red - red/white wires by the solinoid + fuse on cb550's here in paricular.
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I use their "Japanese Bullet" connectors - replaced most of them on my CB750, remember to get the insulating covers too.
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The main switch is used to connect the red (+12v from the battery) to the black wire (+12v regulated circuits) in the 'ON' position.When the key switch is moved to the 'PARK' position the brown wires for the tail light and front pilot light is connected to the red wire.
On some bikes the black/white wire (ignition) is connected to the green (chassis earth) so as to deter people hotwiring the system.