Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: JezzaPeach on November 19, 2022, 10:15:55 AM
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I was just starting to familiarise myself with the wiring connections for this.
1) The diagram doesn’t mention the orange and purple wires so I’m guessing orange goes with yellow and purple with blue?
2) It looks like the connections can be made in the small shroud to the right of the battery? I only need to release the two securing tabs nearest the points and the shroud can be slid up for better access? Worst case disconnect at the points.
3) I’ve got a tool kit in the tray, but the unit fits very neatly under the battery strap, has anyone done this?
4) I think I’ve read on a post that a good connection for the black power feed is the rear light one on the rear mudguard?
Experiences much appreciated!
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My Dyna system advices power from the rear brake lamp switch feed.
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Many thanks Ted.
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I ran the power from the coil connection
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I have one of these boxes and it comes with a diagram and such on what colours connect to what wires. Did you not get this? I also bought 2 systems at the same time, one for me and one for someone else and there were only one set of instructions so I send a PM or an email to the other person describing how and what to attach, if I can find either the instruction or the message I'll let you know what it said.
Essentially, Mark Paris (Hondaman) ccouldn't follow the original blue and yellow colours because it made it difficult to work out what was power in and what was power out so he changed them very slightly, I think orange was yellow and purple was blue, there was also a double connector to tap power without cutting any wires, no wires are cut at all, IIRC the blue goes to the blue, can only go one way due to bullet configuration, yellow to yellow, orange to yellow, purple to blue and the double taps into the rear brake light connector, there is an additional green wire which is meant to go to the points plate and earth on one of the screws in there.
That's what I seem to remember and if that make sense with what you can see then go with it but if it's not vital you fit it right now then wait until I can confirm it when I find the instructions.
Oh and lots of people fitted it under the battery strap, I intend to bolt mine to the back of the battery tray if there is space there or failing that under the battery tray.
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Many thanks Oddjob much appreciated. Yes those colours seemed logical as they are similar, orange/yellow etc. 👍
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Here's the relevant section from the instructions - hope it's readable (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221119/ff2b421bd911811681101cfbdd79172f.jpg)
Sent from my moto g(50) using Tapatalk
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Many thanks Phil. I didn’t have that, only the diagram. Much appreciated. 👍
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One slight problem, the coil wires will be black with white stripe.
The black is inside the headlamp and feeds power TO the kill switch
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Thanks Bryan. My coils are DSS so I’ll check the connectors by those and that the kill switch works on them.
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Saves me looking, thanks Phil.
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Just looking into something like this, smallest possible, to hang it on the battery strap.
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Would something like a leatherman pouch work ?
[attachimg=1]
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Yes looks like it. I’ve got an old mini camera nylon pouch I’ll try. I’m just checking with Mark that heat dispersal isn’t a factor.
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Many thanks Phil. I didn’t have that, only the diagram. Much appreciated. 👍
Sorry about the faff fitting, Jez. The sheet it came with was the only thing in the box when I recieved it from Hondaman. I havent seen that book of words that Phil has.
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Not sure of the 500 battery strap geography, but on my 400F I simply bonded a light alloy ‘tab’ to the back of the ignition unit, put 2 radiused 180 bends (lower bend anchored the bottom of the strap) in it and hung it over said strap. The unit was therefore cooled adequately, took minimal space and looked almost professionally mounted.
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No problem Roo. The instructions just posted by Phil were fine, in fact my phone managed to copy the words as text into ‘notes’ and I could print it! I’ve got it fitted now, and seems to run well, in fact it started instantly. I haven’t been for a run yet. I have asked Mark if it needs cooling and not putting in a pouch, in which case I can just pop it out and under the strap, but I dare say if that was the case it would have cooling fins. The only difference is the static timing needs a multimeter (on volts I think) instead of a bulb.
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Update, ran well. The unit seems to get slightly warm so it’s no pouch, under the battery strap for now. 👍
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I did ask Mark about removing the 2 screws that hold the box the unit comes in and using those screws to attach a steel plate to so I could then attach the plate to the back of the battery tray and hang it off there. He said it would be just fine doing that.
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👍
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I did ask Mark about removing the 2 screws that hold the box the unit comes in and using those screws to attach a steel plate to so I could then attach the plate to the back of the battery tray and hang it off there. He said it would be just fine doing that.
Too much work if you ask me. Under the strap has proved to be an excellent location. Mine hasn't moved a mm in all those years, in spite of numerous bumpy roads all over Europe. Also this location is vibration free, because of the six rubbers in the battery cage, meant to shield the battery from vibes. Moreover, the original wires in the harness can easily be disconnected and connected as the original male and female connectors are so nearby. All in all, the location couldn't be better and it's very tidy too, allowing the wires to be as short as possible.
Just the other day I have finished another of my homebuilt transistor ignition modules. This time I have chosen a bigger box as I found out that behind the RH sidepanel there's ample space, much more than you'd expect. This bigger box will allow fitting the 630VDC capacitors instead of the smaller 400V ones I used in the previous much smaller box. Also in this new module I use the BU931P power transistors instead of the old TIP 162 which seem no longer available. This new box will probably go on my CB500 and the old unit, still working flawlessly, will be donated to a friend's Yamaha XS650.
The reason is that:
a) I have already transplanted the Honda colour wires from my old box to the new one, so for the old module I will try to find the right colour wires that will match the Yamaha colour code.
b) More important: the Yamaha's OEM capacitors are, unlike our Honda ones, real near the coils, so I can easily have them maintained them and by doing so, I won't need capacitors at all anymore in my original box and so the problem of not enough room for the big 630VDC capacitors is elegantly circumvented. :)
Now please have a look at the wires if you will. Obviously the yellow and blue males will be connected to the original females coming from the resp. coils NEG hanging down. The yellow and blue females will be hanging down to be connected to the original males coming up from their resp. breakerpoints.
Obviously the green wire will be connected to the nearby battery's NEG terminal. The black wire obviously still needs extension to be connected to one of the coils POS side, so when the kill switch is in OFF the ignition unit will also be switched off. :)
What I am not satisfied with, is the two short black and the two short green wires exiting the box which - for the moment - are joined in one side of a 'kroonsteentje' (don't know the word in English). Now I have used kroonsteentjes before with success. The ones needed to extend the wires to the rear indicators, when I fitted a luggage carrier in 1980 (!) have never caused a problem and are still there. But here, at my ignition box, I'd welcome a solution that looks somewhat nicer. What kind of connector can I use to replace the two 'kroonsteentjes'?
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Excellent many thanks to all.
kroonsteentje we sometimes call ‘choc bloc’ or ‘chocolate block’ connectors (which they sort of look like!). I’d solder maybe, with a ‘heat shrink’ insulator over, or more Honda type bullet connectors? Mind you the kroonsteentje stay pretty secure.
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It might be easier DR but TBH it looks shite, like you couldn't be bothered to do a decent job of locating it. As mine is also going onto the battery tray it's also using the rubber mounting system to stop vibrations. I'd imagine TBH the battery moves more than the tray, it's the heaviest part.
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It might be easier DR but TBH it looks shite, like you couldn't be bothered to do a decent job of locating it.
Once on the road, there aren't that many onlookers, not behind the side panel. ;) I admit the location was initially meant for a testride only, some 20-25 years ago. But it was such a success: in all those years it has proved to be a trusty location and the vicinity of where the stock harness has its two male and female connectors is a big plus. As if Honda anticipated my EI. ;)
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I know that DR but I know it's there and that's enough for me. I hate having to remove stuff just to get to other stuff, especially if the offending part wasn't meant to be there in the first place. Just the way I am.
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Each to their own, it generates some great innovation on the forum.
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Below a pic that demonstrates the difference in size between the new box (112x61x31mm) and the previous one (100x50x25mm) which from now will continue its life on a Yamaha XS650. Both boxes are from the Hammond 1590B series. I was surprised how much room there is behind the RH side panel. Even with the bigger box installed, there's still room for contrabande. ;). Also in the pic the blue 400V capacitor which was the maximum size I could squeeze in the smaller box and the somewhat bigger green 630VDC one. I don't expect a difference in performance.
Actually the wires exiting the box are longer than needed, as the original male and female connectors in the OEM harnass are so nearby. Bottom right in the pic the OEM wires coming from the breakerpoints.
With this set up, my breakerpoints have lived 60.000 km. I don't know about aftermarket breakerpoints, but the TEC ones are very, very good quality. Maintenance is zero, as long as the little felt is lubed.
First ride in spring, it's my habit, to mount the by me much hated tankbag, to accomodate a dwellmeter. As long as dwell reads the same as last time and remains constant up into red zone, all is well and no readjustment let alone replacement is needed.