Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Bradders on June 22, 2024, 07:31:31 PM
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Adjusted the tappets on my 400/4 today for the first time. What a fiddly pain in the neck job! Any tips for making it easier?
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Hey there!
Yeah it sucks. I tried with tools provided with the honda kit and other regular square wrenches and what not but it still sucked.
Personally I went with a gizmo that does both the hex socket for the counter nut and the square socket for the screw. They fit together so you can really keep one hand free and really do fine adjustments without turning the damn counter nut.
You can find something like I got on Amazon with the keywords « tappet adjustment tool » The one I got costs 8.98£ from bjebndd. I’d share a link but not sure that’s allowed.
If others have tips I’m listening too!
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Thanks for your reply Alexrayz. I gave up on the two rear ones near the carbs, I just couldn’t undo the nut with my spanner’s. How often do you guys do them, it says every 1,500 miles in the manual?
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Well I hope your back is okay!
I just listen to what the manual says yeah
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Adjusted the tappets on my 400/4 today for the first time. What a fiddly pain in the neck job! Any tips for making it easier?
Always fiddly first time - that's why I like hydraulic car tappets.
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"How often do you guys do them, it says every 1,500 miles in the manual?"
Is that in the owners manual? The CB400F service manual maintenance schedule on page 104 says to check them every 3000 miles, adjust if necessary.
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Sorry Mikep328 you’re right , it says in my manual every 3,000 miles. Think it was the YouTube video I was watching saying every 1,500 miles.
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Oil every 1500, but i do filter as well, service 3,000, majour sevice 6,000
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The only thing I would do at 1500 miles is to MAYBE observe that the bike had gone 1500 miles! :) But I'm pretty lazy!
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1500 miles would equate to 5 years use for me.
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You really need to change the oil at 1500 as the gearbox destroys the quality, Ted i would change yours every other year to get rid of water contamination
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While trying to retrieve that bit of camshaft I have posted elsewhere about, I removed the sump and, naturally, before doing so, drained the oil.
It has been in there for about 18 months, just sitting and doing nothing. The engine has been kicked over now and again and run for about 3 minutes.
I was amazed at how dirty it looked! The inside of the sump was coated with what looked like dust mixed with the oil.
So I go with Brian; I would change it at least every year or so, or before you start to use it again after a break.
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How often do you guys do them, it says every 1,500 miles in the manual?
Quite honestly I do them when sounds are telling me something, or by opportunity when it is in the workshop. I can never remember how far I've gone since they were last done. Never did me any harm. When I first got this bike six years back ( I paid too much!) the tappet covers were stuck fast , the hexagons on them mostly rounded off, I needed the mechanics to get them off and do the tappets, gawd knows how overdue they were, it may have a lot to do with how hard the bike is ridden of course. My Elen has been leading a gentle life really, something to do with MY age. ;) my dispatch days are history. ;D
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You really need to change the oil at 1500 as the gearbox destroys the quality, Ted i would change yours every other year to get rid of water contamination
I changed my oil at 18 months 250 odd miles Bryan.
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You could have stretched that to 24 months on that mileage Ted
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I was worried about sump dilution when I rode a 100 mikes on two cylinders! Lol
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Has anyone used this tool?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203928464413 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203928464413)
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Has anyone used this tool?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203928464413 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203928464413)
Tools like that (there's been a few design over the years) work OK but some prefer seperate. Makes it easy to hold both parts if access is restricted too.
Shouldn't be a problem, but as with most things, comes down to personal preference in trying it out.
I find it easier to finally tighten tappets by letting the cente rotate with the securing nut for that final torque, as opposed to holding the centre absolutely still as the threads tighten on each other in conflict.
Easier to do than describe ..... but would loosely approximate to aiming for a marginally wider gap than needed, only to let that close slightly with the final tighten to then arrive at correct specification to be checked and verified without touching the locknut again.
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Has anyone used this tool?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203928464413 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203928464413)
Tools like that (there's been a few design over the years) work OK but some prefer seperate. Makes it easy to hold both parts if access is restricted too.
Shouldn't be a problem, but as with most things, comes down to personal preference in trying it out.
I find it easier to finally tighten tappets by letting the cente rotate with the securing nut for that final torque, as opposed to holding the centre absolutely still as the threads tighten on each other in conflict.
Easier to do than describe ..... but would loosely approximate to aiming for a marginally wider gap than needed, only to let that close slightly with the final tighten to then arrive at correct specification to be checked and verified without touching the locknut again.
And you manage to get 0.005mm of clearance precisely? Doing it the way you describe I never could, that’s why I went for that tool Sean showed. Kudos to you
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;D that was my second job as a kid, so long time practicing.
First was given a little brass brush and feeler gauges to clean and gap spark plugs when my father worked on our family car, dont remember if he actually used the plugs, or it was just to keep me quite and out of his way. Did feel quite grown up with that responsibility though :)
Then on to tappets as I didn't mess up the plugs.
Taught me to weld at about 12 years old too, all oxy /acetylene then as well.
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interesting video I saw on youtube,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3qBLW_sYD8
also
phttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM15Gijr6Ag
I enjoy his videoes,I think he lives just south of Glouscester
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Yup he is near Dursley
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I've watched that one recently, interesting outcome and he's quite "investigative" showing his steps etc throughout. Could be skew on cam grind or some rock in rocker arm, or previous wear to give some taper in follower pad. Probably worthwhile using engineers blue to asses wear pattern in those cases. Some camshaft have the lobe peak deliberately ground "skew" to rotate the follower/bucket in distribution of wear pattern between the component.
Have to fast forward through some waffle, he does say that to himself as criticism some times "stop waffling Jim" but leaves you to zip through them yourself to things you find important.
Recently watched a plug re thread in situ as he approaches it differently to other, more common suggestions. Worthwhile watching that one too if you're contemplating the same.
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;D that was my second job as a kid, so long time practicing.
First was given a little brass brush and feeler gauges to clean and gap spark plugs when my father worked on our family car, dont remember if he actually used the plugs, or it was just to keep me quite and out of his way. Did feel quite grown up with that responsibility though :)
Then on to tappets as I didn't mess up the plugs.
Taught me to weld at about 12 years old too, all oxy /acetylene then as well.
Doesnt sound like a bad childhood experience ;)
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