Honda-SOHC

Other Stuff => Misc / Open => Topic started by: TezzerTel on August 23, 2024, 08:36:01 PM

Title: Rust converters
Post by: TezzerTel on August 23, 2024, 08:36:01 PM
Has anyone had any experience good or bad with the chemical rust converters?
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 23, 2024, 08:53:50 PM
I'm a fan of Evaporust - trouble is it keeps going up in price.
If there is a next time I'll try Citric Acid.

Quite a few discussions if you use the search facility. https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,29517.msg283808.html#msg283808
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: Spitfire on August 24, 2024, 10:14:27 AM
After reading how good it was on here I invested in some Evaporust and it's as good as they say it is, I am impressed.

Cheers

Dennis
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: DomP on August 24, 2024, 10:37:33 AM
On a similar subject I've cleaned my xs650 tank out using electrolysis and then soaken in phosphoric acid which if drained but not rinsed is meant to form a phosphoric coating and apparently goot as an etcher for subsequent coatings.

 I've noticed I have some rust reappearing so I'm not sure what to do as I've read bad things about tank liners
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on August 24, 2024, 11:29:45 AM
After reading how good it was on here I invested in some Evaporust and it's as good as they say it is, I am impressed.

Cheers

Dennis

I have found that when using Evaporust it seems to help if the item is free of oil & general dirt.
When I did the outer plate on my 400 petcock I sprayed it first with Cillit Bang Kitchen degreaser then using a nylon type soft brush (Not Brass or Wire) just removed the light surface contaminants. Washed the surface with Meths then immersed the item in a shallow container. After an hour or so I would use a small soft paint brush to aggitate the surface - this seems to help speed up the process. Items can be left overnight if needed.

My 400 Petrol Tank did not leak - it had probably three pints of ten year old petrol in it the smell was bad.
It was full of rust and black petrol residue after emptying the liquid. I removed the petcock & broken strainer and bunged up the outlet.
I used some small diameter gravel plus a little Diesel I think it was as a lubricant then began shaking it up and down the tank rotating the tank so the sides and top had the gravel wash treatment. Drained off the dirty Diesel or it might have been petrol can't remember then added fresh liquid and repeated until it looked pretty free of the big lumps of black gunge. Getting all the gravel out took a while!

Once that was done I half filled it with Evaporust leaving it to stand overnight. Repeted next few days with tank on side etc I could not leave it upside down as it would leak out of the fuel cap. The Evaporust takes longer to work as it becommes spent and turns dark brown. I used a fresh Evaporust for the final clean - hard to photograph with my phone but iirc I did post some pics on my 400 project build at link below. I might have added a small amount of glass type florists mini glass diamonds during the Evaporust process - we had some that Wendy used for flower arranging. In the end the tank was pretty clean inside with just a few stain spots visible. Fitted new strainer plus an inline filter - not had any issues since. I did use Wynns Dry Fuel over the winter brimming the tank with SUL. I use Stabil now instead.
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: Sesman on August 26, 2024, 08:02:54 AM
Bilt and Hamber Deox- C for rust removal and Gas-Mac for tank preservation. Works for me.
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: Laverda Dave on August 26, 2024, 10:54:41 AM
I've used Deox-c a few times and it's great. I fill the tank to the brim with boiled water from a kettle and wrap it up in a NASA blanket (the foil backed but thin insulated blanket used for home insulation and available from Wicks). The tank will still be hot the next day. I normally leave the Deox-c for 2-3 days before draining it out. It's never failed to work. I then dry the tank inside with a hot air gun until it is bone dry and including the seams. I then swill a bit of diesel around to coat it.
Deox-C costs about £20 and can be purchased direct from Bilt Hamber via their website, other places can charge a lot more.
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: Mike_Berkshire on August 26, 2024, 07:42:29 PM
I recently tried Ferro-bet - it wasn’t very good
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: Sesman on August 27, 2024, 02:50:59 PM
I flush with deionised water post Deox C treatment. Not sure it’s absolutely essential, but does prevent flash rusting until I get the diesel coat in.
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: DomP on August 27, 2024, 06:59:54 PM
Does the diesel not just get washed off once you fill up with petrol
Title: Re: Rust converters
Post by: Sesman on August 27, 2024, 09:30:10 PM
Yes, that’s the idea. The diesel provides some anti rust protection if the tank is not used for a while.
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