Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: XS850 on October 03, 2024, 03:24:41 PM
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Sorry - another “bland†query! My 4 exhaust clamps (the finned ones) need re-chroming, I “think†they’re originals (but no way of telling). Had a quote for re-chroming which is almost identical with 4 “new†repro ones from DSS.
Has anyone had the repro ones and how do they compare with “originals� Cost of post/pack from DSS is nothing as I’m so local can pick them up - conversely I’m in no rush for mine if I go the re-chrome route.
I know the general feeling is originality and I’m trying (where possible) for this but if a new item is identical then to me it’s a “no brainer†- I suppose it comes down to quality of replacement against chrome quality (I’m not after “show†chrome) after rechroming!
What’s the thoughts from others please?
Bruce
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On my 400 I did some surface preparation then sprayed them with heat proof silver paint. They don't re-chrome and stay good for long due to the relatively poor castings that are full of holes.
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Didn't Ken (Oddjob) get some good results with Ceracote ceramic coating. Knowing his attention to derail, they were likely prepped to within an inch of their life first however....
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Hi Bruce, after reading some of Oddjobs work on here I decided I would have a go at cleaning up a set of these exhaust collars. It’s a very tedious job using a dremmel and different grades of grinding abrasive wheels. I can probably guarantee that I didn’t spend ad long as Ken on each one but nevertheless spent probably about 4 hours on each one!😳 Then sent them to Chromefix for plating. They haven’t been on a bike yet as they were an old set off the 550k3 which I replaced. I joked that I was going to place tea lites in them and put on top of the mantle piece. These were very rough casting originally and so are the replacements. I haven’t tried the repro ones. So to sum up if you spread the time required by just grinding a bit at a time even say an hour or so and leave when you’ve had enough, you can get through with very satisfying results. I’ll see if I can find a picture.
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Blimey Johnny, tney look ace, well done that man. I'm sure Ken would be proud of you.
And then say, "You missed a bit" ;D
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Nah.....it would be "that's a good start you just need another 4 hours with a fine wheel."😁😁😁
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If it wasn’t for Ken I would never tackled it in the first place! One thing he did teach me was you want a descent Finnish on something your not going to do it in 5 mins!😂
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As a result of Kens post I bought a new buffing wheel that served me well last winter. Not to mention those little plastic wheels!
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Cat-pigeon, pigeon-cat! Not wishing to be pedantic but those clamps are rough for a reason - they provide as much surface area as possible for cooling and the ‘highlights’ should be the only ‘blingy’ bits. I just soak them in Jenolite and give them a coat of ‘Rub n Buff’. 350 ones have been done for years, 550 only 2.
Ian
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The clamps that came with my Delkevic 500 4 into 4 system did not appear to have the casting blow holes of the Honda ones.
In the end I used my Original ones just cleaned & painted. The new ones were just too bling.
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Cat-pigeon, pigeon-cat! Not wishing to be pedantic but those clamps are rough for a reason - they provide as much surface area as possible for cooling and the ‘highlights’ should be the only ‘blingy’ bits. I just soak them in Jenolite and give them a coat of ‘Rub n Buff’. 350 ones have been done for years, 550 only 2.
Ian
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Very interesting! The ones on my 550 look really grim and I was thinking I would need to replace them but I have some rub and buff so will try this first. Thanks for the tip
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Good tip there Ian with the rub and buff! I got mine home but it’s pewter not the silver stuff so will have to order again. The ones on the current project aren’t in bad shape so I will try the rub and buff on them after a soak in Evaporust.
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Mike,
I wouldn't apply the Rub n Buff without neutralising any rust first - it will work but not last long term. I prefer Jenolite with the clamp dipped in it and agitated now and then with a paint brush to make sure all the little pits and crevices have been treated. Not used Evaporust, so can't comment. When dry, then you can apply the magic dust! Next time I meet up with Johnny I'll show him how the 550 ones came out - I'm still away in Germany but due home later this week (with his paint from Ash!)
Ian
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That’s a lot of differing opinions but ALL good info - Thank You. I might try the “rub & buff†route first (I assume that’s the silver version?) as my clamps aren’t too bad!
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Thanks Ian, I was intending to give them the Jenolote treatment first. I will file this task away for when I get closer to the point where I need to fit the exhaust clamps. Right now I a, in the process of stripping the outer paint off the barrels prior to painting. Head and rocker yet to be started. I hope my Dremel clone won’t expire before I finish this!
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I've got repro from DSS and they are very good. 8) The way I clean them is remove any surface rust with hammerite rust gel first.Then I have this towel belt from a sacrificed bathrobe on which I put a generous amount of Autosol on, I stand on one end, holding the other end tight and rub each grove up and down until it runs black. Then repeat with dry end of belt. I eventually restored the originals like this, mixed them up and I can't tell which is which anymore. ::)