Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on October 12, 2024, 06:21:03 PM
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Here are a couple of photos of the new arrival - delivered this morning.
It's going to take me a few days to catalogue the boxes of parts that came with the bike.
It starts on the button having had a new battery fitted a couple of weeks ago.
A two cylinder does sound strange at first.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54061833253_7abe5787a6_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qng2xk)Boxes of spares (https://flic.kr/p/2qng2xk) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54062042755_46b1ab64d5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnh6Pr)400NA (https://flic.kr/p/2qnh6Pr) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
That seat was on backwards, it's come with a better seat plus a new cover & , strap.
In the boxes were not one, not two, but three spare starter motors!
Not sure yet how many of them still work.
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Nice to get a look Ted! Looks like quite a bit of spares too! Is that an original colour for that model? Not so many of the 400 around back in the day.
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Nice to get a look Ted! Looks like quite a bit of spares too! Is that an original colour for that model? Not so many of the 400 around back in the day.
No there were never made in white , I commented that I liked the colour on the SD website next thing the guy who had only owned the bike for a month or so offered it to me at fair money.
He had a Yamaha FJ? 1300 that was his priority.
The owner was a really nice bloke who asked me for first refusal if I ever wanted to sell it.
A great bonus is it's easier than the 400/4 to pull onto the centre stand. Photo with seat on the right way around.
The engine has suffered from a slight persistant oil leak for the last nine years & two owners from the cylinder head/block area.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54062414520_89db705918_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnj1kb)PXL_20241005_110311905 (https://flic.kr/p/2qnj1kb) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
I'm off to Stafford Show with my BiL in the morning.
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A good basis for a winter resto Ted. That engine looks a bit on the heavy side, it's a big lump.
Enjoy Stafford, I was contemplating going but the wife is working this weekend and needs the car. I'd go on the Viffer but that limits what I can buy and carry back.
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Looks a decent project Ted. Are you keeping it that colour?
Went to Stafford today as my son always pays and drives me there.
Bit disappointed... poor turnout of autojumble a p*ssed down all of the time we were there, although we left about 1pm. David Silvers rummage area was disappointing too ... eBay prices rather than his normal autojumble prices.
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I've been reading a series of old invoices dated June 2014 to August 2019 by a firm named RGS Motorsport (Wellingborough) who have charged a PO £200.20, £817, £1171.02, £177.00, & finally £352.80 during that period the bike covered only 1.078 miles - little wonder the owner sold the bike and gave up trying to stop an oil leak. That's a total of £2717.84.
RCS stated on the last invoice in 2019 "this engine is delicate and would not advise being taken apart again".
Seems an odd statement on face value by a repairer. I can sense the money puddle turning into a Lake.
Yes Ash I'm planning to keep the colour as it is mainly to keep down the costs & it's not bad enough to justify a re-paint although one of the decals is a tad bubbly at one end.
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Wonder what 'delicate' means? Threads in alloy about to give way after they had bodged stuff perhaps? No big deal surely, nothing insurmountable. As you say, an odd statement. That bike looks somehow familiar - perhaps a few folk had them done in white, I've certainly seen on done in those colours. There are a few Super Dreams here in Orkney - one 400 owned by a mutual friend of Johnny and myself. I bought a brand new one in Sept 1980 and did 3000 miles in 3 months and chopped it in for a new CX500A - transferred the number RAT 300W onto that. Also I have a contact down in Lancashire who has quite a few and might have spares lying about but you seem to have plenty!
If the puddle is turning into a pool, just drill a hole in the lowest part and Wendy will not spot it!
Ian
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Looks a nice project Ted 🤠 always nice to do something different, enjoy buddy 😁
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Well done Ted. You really are a prolific restorer Sir!
Re money puddle / lake / pit etc. Just keep in mind its a twin and your others were fours. Half as many cylinders etc to consider cost wise.
Many many years since a rebuilt my motor (40+) but don't recall it being difficult to work on. Good luck mate.
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Just back from Stafford Show, it was dry but there were lots of empty stalls inside with a lower attendance it seemed. We did not find a Honda stand or see a 400N with just one 250 Superdream.
Ran the engine when I got back, the oil looks as though it's leaking mainly from the very top cover, oil then runs along the top fins on the cylinder head down the valley between the two cylinders. It made me wonder if the vent pipe is trapped.
I can see that the invoices included fitting two Time Serts as they do not use long studs but very long head bolts that reach through the head & block screwing into the upper engine case.
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That rocker gasket can be a pig Ted as its a T shaped cross section and needs glueing into the cover(evostick)
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You have endorsed what Ken told me this afternoon.
Ken was saying it's easy to knock the gasket out of position as you fit the cover.
As a bonus the oil ends up dripping onto the collector box so you get free smoke as well.
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At least it stopsthe collector rotting!
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The genuine seal at DS is £19.70, aftermarket part £9.00 is the cheaper option as good?
The top seal/washers are £7.70 each, so it's a total of £35.10 or £24.40 - just to cheer me up there might be a second leak lower down!
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Just back from Stafford Show, it was dry but there were lots of empty stalls inside with a lower attendance it seemed. We did not find a Honda stand or see a 400N with just one 250 Superdream.
Ran the engine when I got back, the oil looks as though it's leaking mainly from the very top cover, oil then runs along the top fins on the cylinder head down the valley between the two cylinders. It made me wonder if the vent pipe is trapped.
I can see that the invoices included fitting two Time Serts as they do not use long studs but very long head bolts that reach through the head & block screwing into the upper engine case.
From your diagnoses Ted I think someone has taken the 400 engine out and substituted it with a 350 Triumph engine, my Triton has exactly the same symptoms. The advantage is your boots will be totally waterproof ;)
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Just back from Stafford Show, it was dry but there were lots of empty stalls inside with a lower attendance it seemed. We did not find a Honda stand or see a 400N with just one 250 Superdream.
Ran the engine when I got back, the oil looks as though it's leaking mainly from the very top cover, oil then runs along the top fins on the cylinder head down the valley between the two cylinders. It made me wonder if the vent pipe is trapped.
I can see that the invoices included fitting two Time Serts as they do not use long studs but very long head bolts that reach through the head & block screwing into the upper engine case.
From your diagnoses Ted I think someone has taken the 400 engine out and substituted it with a 350 Triumph engine, my Triton has exactly the same symptoms. The advantage is your boots will be totally waterproof ;)
[/quote
To be fair to my old Triumph 21 it only leaked oil when stood overnight - it did not pump out when the engine running.
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I've just come in from the garage Ted. I took the rocker covers off the Triton engine today attempting to cure the oil weep. I've fitted copper gaskets with wellseal! The trouble with old British bike engines is they were made using worn out tooling and the world and his brother have all had a go at them on the cheap😏.
Give me a Japanese engine (or an Italian one) anyday!
I'm going to get back on finishing Ratty in the next few days, I had to take a break from it after all the aggravation of the carbs. I'm refreshed enough to strip them......again!
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The genuine seal at DS is £19.70, aftermarket part £9.00 is the cheaper option as good?
The top seal/washers are £7.70 each, so it's a total of £35.10 or £24.40 - just to cheer me up there might be a second leak lower down!
For the sake of an extra £10 I would always go for the genuine part (assuming the DSS part is genuine Honda and in a Honda bag). Imagine fitting a pattern part and it still leaks, you wouldn't know if it was the pattern part or another issue. If a genuine part is still available I would always use it just for peace of mind that you know it's correct and it will fit properly.
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An interesting project Ted, looking forward to seeing it progress.
Isn't the rocker cover fitted and secured by two sleeve bolts on these with rubber seals ? Much like a A series BMC type but with that T fitment instead of traditional cork ;D
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The genuine seal at DS is £19.70, aftermarket part £9.00 is the cheaper option as good?
The top seal/washers are £7.70 each, so it's a total of £35.10 or £24.40 - just to cheer me up there might be a second leak lower down!
For the sake of an extra £10 I would always go for the genuine part (assuming the DSS part is genuine Honda and in a Honda bag). Imagine fitting a pattern part and it still leaks, you wouldn't know if it was the pattern part or another issue. If a genuine part is still available I would always use it just for peace of mind that you know it's correct and it will fit properly.
I've come to doubt a lot of parts that are in bags marked Honda much like genuine NGK plugs that look the real deal.
The advice on the Superdream forum was they use aftermarket ones without issue.
As I have a spare top cover I will check it sits on the cylinder head as it should without the seal in place.
It appears that a PO has tried to put sealant including silver paint on the joint area so I'm hoping it's just some bodgery.
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An interesting project Ted, looking forward to seeing it progress.
Isn't the rocker cover fitted and secured by two sleeve bolts on these with rubber seals ? Much like a A series BMC type but with that T fitment instead of traditional cork ;D
Yes Nigel very similar to a BL A series rocker cover, if you under or over tightened the cork gasket they would leak.
Looking at my spare top cover the top mounting holes look like a slightly tapered recess with a bolt that has a metal/rubber sealing washer .
When I take the tank off I will know more - the old parts books are pretty poor on detail. Ken told me that when fitting if you were not careful the sealing ring could be knocked out of place, it could then split or just become trapped. I think Bryan or Ken mentioned it was worth applying an adhesive to keep the profile correct in the cover groove.
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They aint cheap but its worth changing the rubber cones on the bolts as the bolt tightens down to a built in stop so if cone deteriorates cover is looser
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I will be replacing the top seal arrangement - DS sells them.
A PO has fitted new front brake lines with no guide brackets on the mudguard for the two calipers the skinny braided hose in white just look wrong.
Original replacement guid brackets are NLA so looks as if I'll have to find some aftermarket ones to fit my none genuine front mudguard. The existing front mudguard looks nice enough as a plastic replacement, I just need to find a pair of brackets that will fit.
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No guides or brackets in your stash of spares that came with the bike Ted?
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The big box of spares that the last owner bought online as a job lot is mainly junk. The upper crankcase that was coded BBB had no bearing caps so is scrap. Some parts are not for the 400N out of the three starter motors two are working. There were a load of used cam chains & balancer chains all binned. The bike has a pair of Hagon shocks fitted, the rusty foot rests I've binned the bad ones that are not for my bike. I've kept what looks good. There is one small bracket that looks like a choke top fitting. Two pairs of long alloy side brackets that hold the rear foot pegs etc are pretty decent. I haven't the space for a load of rusty junk. Unidentified useable parts I've kept.
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Out of interest Ted was there a massive price difference between your project and what Charlie at Oxford Classics was asking?
Admittedly even his had a pattern front mudguard fitted. I guess the original chrome guard must be a bit of a hens teeth item then?
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Ted parts you need are
90441413830
Cms say €9 each
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Ted parts you need are
90441413830
Cms say €9 each
Thanks for that information Bryan.
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Out of interest Ted was there a massive price difference between your project and what Charlie at Oxford Classics was asking?
Admittedly even his had a pattern front mudguard fitted. I guess the original chrome guard must be a bit of a hens teeth item then?
He did not give me a firm price, he indicated something in the £3250 3450 area iirc Mine cost me £1300.
As you know I was really looking for a sensible project, this should keep me busy for at least 18 months.
Aside from some daft bodgery it's pretty complete in most areas, I'm not a purist so it looks like I have a good starting base to keep me busy. I'm enjoying the fact that its quite different to my 4 cylinder bikes.
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Today I have removed the seat & tank ready for fixing the top cover gasket.
One of the top securing deep shouldered bolts was rounded it needs replacing.
I can see why folk have trouble replacing the gasket as when the top bolts are removed you have to fight against the throttle & choke cables to remove the cover that has to clear the internals.
On face value it has the wrong battery fitted - it had a novelty fitting between the live terminal and the solenoid.
Clearly a PO did not have a soldering iron so attached the main positive lead to a new terminal connector using a pipe clip.
The pair of frame reflectors that clamp on the fork tube used a cable tie instead of a nut & bolt.
Looking at various things I don't think the frame has ever been fully dismantled with lots of makeshift wiring connections.
The battery is the wrong one it's around 14 mm too long so does not sit in the battery tray. The tray is a tad bent to try to make it fit, so I'll need to straightening. I suspect thats how the solenoid lead was snapped.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54069429800_0845537322_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnVXJh)novel battery connector (https://flic.kr/p/2qnVXJh) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54069318094_1405e16748_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qnVowj)close fitting cover (https://flic.kr/p/2qnVowj) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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I've removed the coil & CDI unit to make more room, top engine mount triangle next plus choke cable disconnected to follow.
I might have to disconnect the throttle cables - that will be fun as I managed to cut the ball of my thumb yesterday on a clip. If you don't get a war wound it's too easy.
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I've removed the coil & CDI unit to make more room, top engine mount triangle next plus choke cable disconnected to follow.
I might have to disconnect the throttle cables - that will be fun as I managed to cut the ball of my thumb yesterday on a clip. If you don't get a war wound it's too easy.
Ouch! 😳 Ted don’t be cutting off anything more!🤣 That bolt looks worthy of replacing.(
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I've removed the coil & CDI unit to make more room, top engine mount triangle next plus choke cable disconnected to follow.
I might have to disconnect the throttle cables - that will be fun as I managed to cut the ball of my thumb yesterday on a clip. If you don't get a war wound it's too easy.
Ouch! 😳 Ted don’t be cutting off anything more!🤣 That bolt looks worthy of replacing.(
That's the good one Johnny!
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I've removed the coil & CDI unit to make more room, top engine mount triangle next plus choke cable disconnected to follow.
I might have to disconnect the throttle cables - that will be fun as I managed to cut the ball of my thumb yesterday on a clip. If you don't get a war wound it's too easy.
Ouch! 😳 Ted don’t be cutting off anything more!🤣 That bolt looks worthy of replacing.(
That's the good one Johnny!
😳😳😂 hope that’s not a theme throughout the bike Ted!
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Out of interest Ted was there a massive price difference between your project and what Charlie at Oxford Classics was asking?
Admittedly even his had a pattern front mudguard fitted. I guess the original chrome guard must be a bit of a hens teeth item then?
He did not give me a firm price, he indicated something in the £3250 3450 area iirc Mine cost me £1300.
As you know I was really looking for a sensible project, this should keep me busy for at least 18 months.
Aside from some daft bodgery it's pretty complete in most areas, I'm not a purist so it looks like I have a good starting base to keep me busy. I'm enjoying the fact that its quite different to my 4 cylinder bikes.
I am surprised Charlie was asking that much Ted ... so I see your logic. Maybe it bodes well for you project ... maybe CB400N's are bucking the trend and holding prices. Perhaps your Fast Ford man of the early 80's would choose the 400N as the bike of his youth ...or would that be an Austin Maestro driver?
I base this on the first link below on Charlies asking price on this CB250K4
https://oxfordclassicmotorcycles.co.uk/bikedetail.aspx?bike=5519
On another level this CB500F2 looked a beauty.
https://oxfordclassicmotorcycles.co.uk/bikedetail.aspx?bike=5526
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Out of interest Ted was there a massive price difference between your project and what Charlie at Oxford Classics was asking?
Admittedly even his had a pattern front mudguard fitted. I guess the original chrome guard must be a bit of a hens teeth item then?
He did not give me a firm price, he indicated something in the £3250 3450 area iirc Mine cost me £1300.
As you know I was really looking for a sensible project, this should keep me busy for at least 18 months.
Aside from some daft bodgery it's pretty complete in most areas, I'm not a purist so it looks like I have a good starting base to keep me busy. I'm enjoying the fact that its quite different to my 4 cylinder bikes.
... maybe CB400N's are bucking the trend and holding prices. Perhaps your Fast Ford man of the early 80's would choose the 400N as the bike of his youth ...or would that be an Austin Maestro driver?
Maestro driver? That could cause alot if offence to us historic 400N owners.😱😱😱
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Oddly enough a bloke I worked with bought a new MG Maestro it would have been in 1984/5 it was actually from a passenger point of view a really nice car. It had some sort of early voice command on it as well as mpg display computer. Only fault he had was it always smelt of petrol after switching off the engine. It had twin carbs iirc, it was a flooding issue linked to the early model not having a heated inlet manifold. He got nowhere in trying to get it fixed under warranty.
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Nice one Ted, that should keep you off the streets, the bike reminds me of my favourite 750K1, I was respraying it and had just put on a white undercoat and thought that it looked really nice so I finished it off white.
This is the bike the day I traded it in for my 750F1 in 1976.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7818/7CnVu9.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2194/nZWqnw.jpg)
Cheers
Dennis
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Looks great in white. My 550k3 was white for about 30yrs. That’s a nice f2 Ash not bad price either. Probably not one tearing to pieces though! Where’s the fun in that!😳🤭
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Looks good in white Dennis - It was only a chance remark about the colour of the 400 Superdream that the last owner who only had it for a month or so offered it to me via a PM. (Serendipity strikes again)
I've been very carefull unplugging & removing the CDI unit this morning - happy no connectors were damaged. Part of the outer casing had a fair layer of surface rust on it. Currently cleaning it ready for some zinc primer then a coat of black to make it look better. In my box of spares is a CDI unit with missing connector but it might be okay. At some point I will consider fitting some new connector blocks from Kojaycat.
The coil looks very new - probably aftermarket but fitting is in the original mount spacings.
Having a new project has perked me up no end, it will help me with my winter blues (mild SAD).
I'm not certain but I think the headlamp is a standard 7" unit - the rim needs replacing it's no better than the rusty one in the box of spares.
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It’s great being on that voyage of discovery with a new project like that Ted. I went through an entire winter (and they are long) with a tidy w/shop and nothing happening and vowed I wouldn’t be doing that again. Happy days!😁
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I can visualise the Orkney equivalent of Tumble Weed blowing around outside in the winter - snow perchance - you Islanders do make the place sound great - a cross/half-way house between me living in a Derby Suberb & being a Hermit. ;D ;D ;D
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We don’t get a lot of snow, it doesn’t get a chance to land the wind blows it all out to see,🤭 The wind is our nemesis. Still wouldn’t really want to live anywhere else. If you ever get the chance to see the film “The Outrun†it is a very powerful film about a struggling alcoholic which is a true story. It is based in Orkney with flashbacks to a former life in London.
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I'll look out for that film Johnny - I did watch a crime series a couple of years ago, I enjoyed that.
I do miss Ken's eagle eye, he rang me this afternoon to tell me he had spotted a problem on my 400N. My heart sank at first but it does explain why its a tad slow to start and why the tickover is all over the place.
The left side carb mounting rubber where it is attached to the cylinder head is cracked right through from previous over tightening. Neither of the two in my spares box look like the correct ones.
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Bring back Ken!
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Bring back Ken!
The site moderator knows my views so I will not comment, thank goodness I can still contact him.
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Work has ground to a halt due to a cut on the ball of my right thumb done by a spring clip 4 days ago - I've got to let it heal before I re-fit the top cam cover. Dipping it in the array of liquids in my garage has not helped, boy does petrol sting in a part healed cut.
Things that you need your thumb for include.
1.Shaving - I cut myself shaving trying to hold the razor without using my thumb.
2. Pulling up your trouser zip when you get dressed.
3. Fastening almost any type of button including any press buttons on my shirts.
4. Picking up a cup of Tea.
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👍 thumbs up to that Ted!😳
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Pollex to that Johnny. 👎😁👍
[Also known as the pollex or digitus primus manus, the thumb is anatomically different from the hand's other four digits]
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😂 thought you were being rude for a minute there Ted!🤭
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I've never come across the medical term before its a good word for Scrabble players. Thanks Mr Google.😁
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I'm with you Ted having just had both thumb joints replaced its amazing the things that you have problem doing without a working thumb, the left hand was bad enough but the right has been really annoying.
Dennis
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Your situation is off the scale Dennis compared to my self inflicted minor wound - wishing you a speedy recovery.
My BiL had some sort of Gold injections in his fingers due to long term issues in both hands - he struggles to ride his bikes these days, he is nine years younger than me.
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I've never come across the medical term before its a good word for Scrabble players. Thanks Mr Google.😁
I played Scrabble last night and accidentally swallowed some Scrabble tiles. I've been suffering with vowel movements ever since. If I have to go to the toilet just one more time it will spell Disaster!
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;D ;D ;D
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I've never come across the medical term before its a good word for Scrabble players. Thanks Mr Google.😁
I played Scrabble last night and accidentally swallowed some Scrabble tiles. I've been suffering with vowel movements ever since. If I have to go to the toilet just one more time it will spell Disaster!
You been listening to Tim Vine by any chance Dave? 😂😂
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Back on track ever so slightly - am wondering what was painted silver & what was polished alloy on the CB400NA originally?
My clutch casing is polished alloy as are the visible parts of the cam top cover.
The rest loks like it was silver paint.
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I've never come across the medical term before its a good word for Scrabble players. Thanks Mr Google.😁
I played Scrabble last night and accidentally swallowed some Scrabble tiles. I've been suffering with vowel movements ever since. If I have to go to the toilet just one more time it will spell Disaster!
Our daughter bought us this recently Dave... highly recommended and very addictive.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bananagrams-BAN001-Word-Game/dp/1932188126/ref=asc_df_1932188126/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17476059834876574248&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9180715&hvtargid=pla-2281435178538&mcid=142b26d35e173bcfa5ba1f4dec719ce0&th=1&hvocijid=17476059834876574248-1932188126-&hvexpln=74&gad_source=1
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Good luck with the resto Ted looks like a good buy and that model would also high on my list as an interesting rideable bike in the end. Getting started on my BMWR80 soon after I’ve sorted a near engine death belt issue on my Volvo Xc60. Hope the thumb gets better !
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It's weird the bloke I bought my CB400NA from has sent me a photo of his latest bike, another CB400NA, at a glance it looks in quite similar condition overall.
Might be he is buying & selling or that the one I have was just too much work with the comments by a previous bike repairer about the engine being delicate.
Having read all the history of the bike a few times it had new genuine Honda block & standard pistons fitted in Oct 2015 at 48,859 miles it has now covered a recorded 50,678 miles with documentation that supports the recorded mileage and lack of use.
Looking at the statements dated August 2019 at 50,646 miles "this engine is delicate and would not advise being taken apart again " this might be why the last owner has decided to move it on.
The upper crank case has had some Timeserts fitted with a report of oil leaking from cracks in engine casing as far back as 2014. Reports do not seem to specify if it was the lower (gearbox) casing or the upper. There is a decent lower engine/gearbox casing in my box of spares.
Looking around on e-bay it appears that stripped head bolt threads are pretty common. Worst case scenario is I either need to find a better upper crank case or the existing one will need more head bolt threads repairing. There is no sign at the moment of any slow oil leaks from the engine when it is not running.
I've seem a few adverts for complete 400N engines, I suspect stripped head threads is pretty common - makes me wonder why Honda did not stick to studs & nuts.
Pretty sure the engine is going to end up being fully dismantled, I still plan to fire it up again when the cam top cover is back on just to see if there are second or third areas of oil weeps/leaks.
I'm planning/hoping to have her running again by the end of the week - currently having to cope with a water leak somewhere under the bath area that is causing a small circular damp patch in the rear lounge.
Plumber calling tomorrow to give me an estimate.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54082925116_0e3f4d6b28_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qp88q9)damp patch circle (https://flic.kr/p/2qp88q9) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Ted in my opinion any thread repairs if carried out competently will be stronger than original threads as you probably know. So I wouldn’t be put off by previous repairs, cracks is a different story. More annoying would be a water leak in the house!😳
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Ted in my opinion any thread repairs if carried out competently will be stronger than original threads as you probably know. So I wouldn’t be put off by previous repairs, cracks is a different story. More annoying would be a water leak in the house!😳
The optimist in me did wonder if the so called 'cracks 'were casting marks. If the bottom casing has cracks can I fit the 'spare casing' I have assuming the bottom cases are interchangable with the upper half as the mains arrangement is an internal coded mains cap arrangement?
As you can imagine the water leak (a small damp patch at the moment) is my priority. I've made a small hole at the centre of the circular patch with a bucket directly below just in case it suddenly accelerates.
Today there has been what appears to be one drip onto some dry loo roll in the bucket. It's how the plumber will find the source of the leak and what needs to be removed to fix it.
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Yes the lower case can be swapped Ted
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Yes the lower case can be swapped Ted
I have since looked at the 400N parts book that is quite different from the CB400F & 500 K1 versions.
Two part numbers are listed for the 400N depending on the engine number, I have a spare lower crankcase but not sure if the two part numbers are interchangeable.
The book lists 11200-413-781 & 11200-413-782 so whilst not disputing the swapability wondered if there is some easy way of identify the spare casing I have as a 781 or 782?
Is it connected to the so called kicker models Bryan?
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Probably Ted, never got that far in. Did change top set on a brand new 250 but thats a different story
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My thumb wound is sufficiently healed so this morning the cam casing has been cleaned to remove the worst of the oxidation followed by a coat of Simonize silver matt engine paint.
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I am pleased to report that the cam cover oil leak is fixed with no sign of any other oil leaks.
I'm pleased I removed the coils & CDI unit as it made fitting the cover back really easy. I used Red Rubber grease to hold the seal into the cover, carefully put it in place, checked it was in place all the way around. New top seals & bolts fitted.
I've made a replacement cable for the battery to solenoid lead using some new cable & one new soldered end connection. I reclaimed a 90 deg terminal for the battery end. Not perfect but a good temporary arrangement until I can source something closer to the original battery terminals. Had to use the gas ring on the cooker to get the terminals hot enough for the solder to flow.
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Never mind all that…what’s happening with the leak?
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Never mind all that…what’s happening with the leak?
History, I have no oil leaks now!
Next going to do an oil & filter change & check the balance shaft chain for tension. I've had advice on how to do it from Bryan & Ken.
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The water leak Ted, the water leak🫣
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Ah sorry I was in bike mode!
We have a low threshold bath as Wendy can't get her leg over due to hip replacement a few years ago. ( bath not me).
We have a fancy electronic shower with a fixed rain head plus the usual hand type shower head on an adjustable rail. It's a power shower with a folding side screen so it uses almost as much water as a bath.
Plumber came on Tuesday and declared no leaks from the various pipes at the foot of the bath. He was a bit stumped as to what was causing the obvious wet patch on the lounge ceiling. He tried the bath taps no leak on the drain from the bath. As a last resort he asked me to switch on the shower. Nothing for the first few minutes then water appeared between the end of the bath and the stench pipe cladding in the corner of the bathroom. He did a video with his phone.
The bath is not dead level but tilts slightly away from the taps and the shower section. During a long shower then water runs along the seal between the bath & the wall tiles and was leaking at the far end.
After our house fire the cladding was pulled away from the walls by the fire brigade to ensure there were no small pockets of fire that could restart after they had left. Although the bathroom was not damaged the cladding had to be replaced due to the holes they had made in the uPVC. The builders just sealed in the new cladding but the joint where new met old failed to last.(It's lasted 6 years).
It just needs all the sealant round three sides to be removed and replaced with a good quality sealant with the bath full of water until it's dried.
I've decided to let them do it, sounds too much like removing gasket material from an engine block.🥱🥱🥱
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Charlie finally got round to pricing his Ted plus he has another one now if anyone else on here wants to share your journey ;D
https://www.oxfordclassicmotorcycles.co.uk/bikedetail.aspx?bike=5518
[attachimg=1]
https://www.oxfordclassicmotorcycles.co.uk/bikedetail.aspx?bike=5536
[attachimg=2]
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It took a while for it to be priced Ash, more in line with the current market, might be I got it wrong, I know it was more than I wanted to spend plus it probably needs little work doing to it.
The bloke I bought my 400 SD from has gone and bought another 400SD one with 16k miles on the clock from somewhere near Chester for £1800 IIRC, I saw it when I was looking for one, it's dropped a few hundred.
Too tidy for me I need something that needs working on.
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I've managed to do some dismantling on the Superdream, next week it will be engine out if all goes to plan.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54112418483_f787d8bab3_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qrJhLt)PXL_20241102_181907542 (https://flic.kr/p/2qrJhLt) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Great progress, your getting down to the nitty gritty Ted.
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Carefull Ted that lump is deceptively heavy mate
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Carefull Ted that lump is deceptively heavy mate
I'm planning on having my much younger brother help me when it's set to come out, plan is to have a thick block of wood on my scissor jack arrangement to take the weight once all the bolts are out at the front & rear. Bike is on the center stand with wheels in place. Just hope it lowers enough to clear the frame, then move it sideways.
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Its a long time but i think you have to drop the back end and rotate lump slightly, i had a 250 in the shop out and upside down in 17 mins
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Was it getting near stopping time Bryan? 😜
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The Haynes Manual mentions having the left side cover removed in the engine out instructions?
I was hoping I could leave the oil in.
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My recall similar to Bryan, head rotated backwards into the space where carbs are usually, to then come out more or less vertically through frame aperture.
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So would it help to remove the back wheel from the frame so the frame can be jacked up from the rear swing arm?
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At first I thought this Bilt-Hambler degreasing fluid was pretty average, however it appears to work better diluited than neat so I've now updated my opion on the stuff.
I still like Petrol though, posted this picture of my brake pedal that I thought was black from new. A PO painted the outside part but 40 years of grime revealed it was chromed. I've not started cleaning it with Kens's (Oddjob Ken) buffing wheels yet but it looks like it will clean up OK, there is always the Chrome Paint alternative recently posted here.
Nice touch - the braked pivot has a removable insert so that is currently having the Evaporust treatment.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54114123893_d392828f3c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qrT2J6)before (https://flic.kr/p/2qrT2J6) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54114189654_07503fdcf3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qrTngU)after (https://flic.kr/p/2qrTngU) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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It’s a messy job but somebody has to do it!🤭 I’ve not tried the Bilt-Hambler stuff yet Ted, mine is about 2 parts diesel and one part petrol ish. It’s sort of satisfying but quite tedious, and messy!😜
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I've spent more time removing some of the thick grease / grime on the chain side of the frame. It was so thick I could not see the rear engine mount bolt heads.
I've now undone all the engine mounting nuts on the frame, four at the front & two at the rear., top triangle removed previously. Side stand now off. I'm spending more time cleaning up mess than actual work on the frame.
I've spent about 3 hours in the garage so that's me done in for today. Once I have worked out the engine lifting arrangement to take the weight off the engine mounting bolts I'll be ringing my brother for the final phase - engine out, turn the bike round on the ramp in readiness for front wheel & fork removal.
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Nice work! If it’s any consolation I’ve been hacking down bushes the day. It’s not much fun either.
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Machete in hand, secateurs at the ready & lopping bushes - hard graft indeed Johnny - definetely harder work than what I've been doing today. 8) 8) 8)
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My brother came today to help me get the engine out for the last haul. My it's an unweildy lump, I took off the left side cover on advice from Superdream site. We tipped the head towards the rear wheel for the last part of the process, the rear frame was quite tight on the engine, suddenly the frame let go then it was out without mishap. Walked the engine sidways onto the waiting dolly platform with some wooden offcuts as support to stop it tipping over.
Made me wonder what the steel plate with three bolts is for on the engine above the cylinder head area?
I'm thinking come assemble time to put the engine on the ramp then just lower the frame onto the engine, bolt in place then fit the rear wheel, jack up the rear swing arm, final stage fit the front forks etc.
.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54127834903_46b795a962_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qt6iwP)PXL_20241109_153855245 (https://flic.kr/p/2qt6iwP) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54127548966_dec9b13ee3_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qt4QwS)PXL_20241109_153906250 (https://flic.kr/p/2qt4QwS) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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From memory there is a plate either side of the frame bolted on with a bolt through all three Ted
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Oh I forgot, the double triangular top bracket, there is me thinking it was an engine removal part!
Thanks Bryan.
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Ted you are getting as forgetrull as me-------who are you?
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Bryan, you are starting to sound like Her Indoors, every time I forget something she starts telling me it's the onset of AlkaSalter's Disease (sympathetic re-branding) anyway last week it was Wendy's 70th so I bought her (as per a gift list) a bottle of Bolly instead of our usual Cava or Frexinet. (In August I bought a bottle of Tattinger for our wedding anniversary that was still in it's box).
After conducting a wedding today when Wendy was back home late this afternoon she suggested we open the bottle of Tattinger to celibrate . I asked her if she preferred Tattinger or should I open the Bolly?
You never bought me any Bolly she replied, yes I did it was dam expensive. After a heated exchange of words I went into the garage to fetch the Bolly, it took me a good fifteen minutes of looking in all my hiding places to find the bottle that I forgot to give her.
What me being forgetfull...............I'll fetch my coat. ;D ;D ;D
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Only answer to that is who, what, where!!
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This morning as Wendy has gone with some friends to watch Arsenal v Chelsea I had a fresh look at safely removing the front wheel.
I must have been too tired yesterday to see the obvious. Wheel is out, good tip from the SD site about putting some wood under the center stand to lift everything up - never thought of that.
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Only the center stand left to remove plus the outer steering column races if on inspection they need replacing.
Then some serious degriming next week then I'll need to decide if it's powder coating (PC) or rattle can, might end up PC as the weather will be turning soon. If I go for PC then the damper bushes will need to come out.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54130189331_8d2be070e5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtinqp)close to bare frame (https://flic.kr/p/2qtinqp) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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If you don’t mind me saying so, please don’t rattle can the frame. Unless you intend to use 2K. I have yet to witness any rattle can solution that exhibits an appreciable level of durability. I accept I’ve led a sheltered life.
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I spoke to Ken yesterday he pretty much convinced me to go for powder coating so that is going to most likely be the route I will go Phillip - I know it makes sense.
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Ted, before spending a heap of cash restoring the bike please get the frame checked for alignment. The guy I used asks for the engine cases to be mounted in the frame along with the swing arm, shocks and rear wheel. He charges £100 (used to be £70 a couple of years ago but that's inflation). The only bike that didn't need a tweak was Ratty the 400/4 but all the other frames I've taken to him in the past including a 350 Morini, 250RSA and 400/4 were all slightly out of line. He did say that most mass production frames are never 100% when they leave the factory as they are mass produced in jigs and very rarely checked.
I would hate to spend £000’s restoring a bike only to find it doesn't handle properly on its first outing because the frame is bent.
Considering the age of the bike, number of previous owners and obvious hard life it's lead I personally would get it checked.
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TBH Dave that never occurred to me, that's probably something I should have done before I took it to bits as it was a runner & theoretically a rider. There is no obvious damage to the frame etc.
The wheels rotate true with no sign of any buckles.
I'll ask my mate Neil who has the mental Turbo bike as he is in the bike trade.
Something that I do not like about the Superdream design is the top yoke being a flat bit of steel albeit with a lip, not a big block of alloy.
The bar holder just bolts on the steel plate from underneath with no top pinch bolts at the top, just top cap nuts.
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Dave - is £100 to check and straighten it as well? Was that a spot on Watford?
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I have no understanding of how the frame is re- aligned if it's found to be bent. I understand 4 wheel alignment on a 4x4 as there are adjustable suspension arms on all four wheels. I've seen a body jig for when a chassis leg is replaced, that tends to be where a tacked in part is checked before and after full welding.
I wonder if it's on U-tube how they do it.
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They literally bend it, ordinarily with hydraulic assistance, to "twist" it back into alignment if its distorted.
Look for "motoliner" jig, should bring up something.
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Brute force and hydraulics is the answer Ted, you bend it back, usually pluss a little bit to account for spring in the metal
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Down to the skeleton now.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54134860341_e38437d420_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qtHiX4)PXL_20241111_200316917 (https://flic.kr/p/2qtHiX4) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Dave - is £100 to check and straighten it as well? Was that a spot on Watford?
Hi Andy.
The price included minor tweaks although if the frame is bent and needs heat it will cost more. The 350 Morini frame I took to him needed a crack on the rear seat rail welding up and that cost a bit more.
Howard who owns the business is very honest and is an ex aerospace engineer. He was building a wicked looking Norton Commando cafe racer in a Featherbed frame last time I was there.
The company is called Hybrid Motorcycles and they are located in Croxley on the road between Croxley and Sarratt. It is opposite a prep school and is just a driveway, blink and you'll miss it!
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Thanks Dave. Not far from me so I'll investigate further.
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I'm planning to get Max (former member) to make me a set of SS wheel spacers for the Superdream so thought I would find them ready for posting out..
I found the rear spacers within a minute or so. I have failed to find the front wheel spacer as it was not on the front axle bolt with the speedometer drive where I should have put it during dis-assembly.
I've checked all the boxes on the shelves yesterday & again today, it really bugs me when I can't find a part.
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I can 100% guarantee Ted they will be in last place you look!
I dropped the small centre pin that links the no 2&3 carbs on the 400 last spring. I looked everywhere and couldn't find it even sweeping the floor with a magnet. I bought another from Steve @400/4 bits.
I was tidying up the garage last week, pulled out a storage box from under the bench and sitting on the lid was......the carb centre pin!
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Read my bits at bottom of posts
Of course it is in the last place you look---------- YOU STOP LOOKING WHEN YOU FIND IT
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😂😂
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This evening I've put some small tool racks back on the garage wall that I had to move to make room for my 400 & 500 at one end. I was fed up with rummaging for tools in boxes.
Honest I've not looked for the missing spacer at all, just been trying to think back 10 days. No point in looking in the same places for a third time, well not tonight anyway.☹ï¸
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Found it! 😄
Took another look this morning using a pencil torch to peer inside the front hub. On one side I could see the bearing & center spacer (left speedo drive side).
When looking at the other end there was clearly something else there as well as the inner spacer & the bearing, yep it was inside the hub seal where I had pushed it back in after inspection ten days ago.
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New problem found today - I'm hoping there is an easy fix.
The center stand pivot on the Superdream is held in place slightly differently. For some reason they changed the fitting so there is a clamp on the right side only plus a threaded bolt hole in the pivot that is tightened up with a bracket arrangement. I'm thinking that bracket is to ensure the stand moves on the shaft, rather than the shaft rotating in the frame clamps. No clamp on the left side unless it's missing.
When I came to remove the center stand shaft from the frame the bolt in the center was several threads undone so this did not prevent the shaft from rotating. Even worse still the center shaft was in fact broken near where it fits close to the frame acting like flexible joint, I actually thought briefly that it was a rag bolt design.
The original shafts are no longer available, the SD website sells a SS replica that comes with the center bolt. The new shaft is a nice bit of kit, it fits firmly into the frame on the right side - a different story on the left side as the hole in the frame has enlarged over time so it fits like you know what in a stocking.
Not sure at the moment what the easiest decent fix is going to be, my first thought is a steel or alloy plate needs to be fitted on the outside of the frame with the original sized hole in it for the shaft to be held in place. It might be the plate could be held in place by a couple of bolts or brazed in place not sure at the moment if there is an easier fix.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54157877904_0513434b89_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvKhgA)broken stand pivot (https://flic.kr/p/2qvKhgA) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Must admit to never having took one off Ted so thats a new idea to me
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I'm pretty sure the center stand has never been removed previously judging by the layers of road tar and grime on the area around both stands.
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The photo tells the story, the enlargement is almost round!
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54158883006_3e8ca1a806_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qvQr3W)PXL_20241123_103720742 (https://flic.kr/p/2qvQr3W) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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You could press a short sleeve onto the new shaft with its O/D slightly larger than your wonky hole (so to speak!) then carefully file/dremel the hole so that the new sleeve is a good sliding fit in the frame. With it clamped correctly it shouldn't go anywhere.
Ian
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My thoughts are in that zone, I used a cut plumbing olive as a starting point, not helped by it being to big in the first place.
Finding a suitable sleeve will be the hard part- not sure how they are listed on ebay - I'll scour my many boxes of bits first.
The shaft o/d is 18.65-18.85 mm according to UHSD site.
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Probably the simplest way to recover it would be to get a plate made (bespoke washer really) in something like 4mm plate, four holes drilled into that and just placed correctly! then with welding through the holes to frame structure to secure.
Holes unless you know someone with a spot welder, local bodyshop etc ? that may do it as adhoc job for you.
That'll give an easy install and competent bearing surface in bore to repair it.
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I've resurrected my Brass olive, if I can sand it down a tad more it might work
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The Brass olive is an interference fit on the shaft when I push the shaft fully home from the other end, on assembly I will pop some Loctite on the outer edge of the olive and shaft contact.
It has been suggested elsewhere that Brass might be too soft due to the weight of the bike.
As it's a tight fit with the shaft being double held at the other end by the usual clamp plus a bracket bolted to the center of the pivot to stop it rotating it might be good for a few years.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54163719376_7d2bba2558_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qwgdJC)SD pivot 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2qwgdJC) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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I think thats a great fix Ted, worth telling the other forum
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I've posted a picture on the Real SD Forum Bryan, only comment to date was that brass is a bit soft, suggesting the weight of the bike might be an issue. I'm happy to monitor the situation and see how it works out.
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For what it does i think it will be fine mate
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Weren’t the bushes in the CB900FZ plastic?
Softer than brass.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Whilst I'm thinking about what to do with the slightly pimply fork sliders I decided to spend around an hour on one of the fork stanchions, I think it's the left side iirc.
I started with Ken's little plastic wheels Red (220) then light green (1000) then 5 minutes with some medium soap on the buffing wheel. I'm chuffed with the improvement, I will do more until I am happy with the finish.. I used my Dremel type tool instead of a cordless drill at speed setting 3.
.First photo at 19.16 today, second at 20.05 hrs approx.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54174562666_4d42e21d98_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qxdN4U)19.16 Sat (https://flic.kr/p/2qxdN4U) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54174562656_107050cd5b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qxdN4J)20.05 Sat (https://flic.kr/p/2qxdN4J) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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That looks pretty shiny!
I tend to paint mine, as I lack the patience, buffing wheel, and take the easy way out.
I have to re-do the fork lowers on the daily ride, and wish I had them looking like that!
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That looks great Ted. Those whizz wheels (as I call them) and reccomended by Ken really are the bees knees.
I will use your method when it comes to polishing the TL125.
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After mixed results plus daft rising costs/quotations from two local firms I have used previously a mate put me in touch with a small firm near Chesterfield. They specialise in vehicle paintwork they also do powder coating.
As the Superdream is never going to have much end value I have taken a risk and taken the frame to them. I will report back on what sort of job they make of it and name the place when I have the frame back, hopefully by the end of next week.
Photos will be posted, I'm using the firm based on recommendation from someone whose opinion I value.
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Ted - what are the plastic / polishing wheels you referred to?
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Don't know what Ted used, but I got a similar result using a scotchbrite pad type version of a polishing disc from Lidl.
Not too brutal but enough to easily remove the lacquer and gently polish up alloy.
Then finished by hand with solvol autosol.
And finally done with autoglym super resin to seal the elements out.
EDIT.
Parkside fibre disc set, item number PWSZSP1.
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Details of the polishing discs are here:
Wobekuy 50Pcs 1 Inch Radial Bristle Disc Kit Abrasive Brush 3mm Shank Detail Polishing Wheel for Rotary Tool Accessories
https://amzn.eu/d/cETlHwP
Amazon are showing no stock at the moment :(
I notice Ken has previously posted a review on these and if they are good enough for Ken they were good enough for me. They are are great product.
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Ted - what are the plastic / polishing wheels you referred to?
I use two of the polishing discs on the same shaft, although they come in a range of coarseness I tend to use the 220 grit equivalent ones for the first phase, then the 1000 grit. One pair of wheels lasts for ages as long as you do not apply too much pressure or have your dremel type tool set too fast. The plastic discs are directional, it takes a bit of practice as you need the wheels ideally to be at 90 deg to the metal. I used a cordless drill back in 2020, a dremel type tool is much better, mine is a mains powered Von Hous recommended by a member. Final phase is the buffing wheel using the different grades of finishing soap.
Ken has discovered a new super grade of finishing soap that he was telling me about last week - it's Gold and priced accordingly.
These are the ones Ken uses & recommends, I think they are mentioned in Tricks & Tips here http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,28743.0.html
This is a link to Amazon item.https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B097NHP7CM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
On e bay as well.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394131453050?_skw=50Pcs+1+Inch+Radial+Bristle+Disc+Kit+Abrasive+Brush+3mm+Shank+Detail+Polishing+Wheel+for+Rotary+Tool+Accessories&itmmeta=01JEQWS4BY6TZM375PFW2BX040&hash=item5bc410b47a:g:wD0AAOSw-DZitWMN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABUHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnp8dE1FFjQCgxVke0%2BzYARIvWPkdbXZ8lO%2Fivqt4fzhu88G12OSAqyMIBVsrO3xC0sKtH6rQiaA2oVEBbOd36AfzRXjw96vwxiSqDcv6b9AUlUfNZT4lmIDVJesLqF%2B7nQXxG2okuAG6WJ1w%2FfjmY6icjKFLS8MAVuA5qaKED5opbdh9C7Yrb%2BOrNcB9WMz4p82VSqwNVJkWW13QIAxyAC%2F77Gs8SNalSFWBSqqwd8Vuho1xvrzU16Sm9ZZhBj2zYFOj17uMdzWFsV852YIT%2FjhuFyE0eVVlj6FiISDyGw4o4baJYcQUAQTCstBA17q%2FNCe7F8iE4EaS2fB3A4Y7mw50%2Fg7iw4s14N74AidkJE%2FOIc2Ua17wjH68dOjA8bIXlCTos29GPb05GffQoujWj36jZ6kASXSwggQS2oeYuvmQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMhMbk_PVk
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I felt bright enough this morning to drive to Clay Cross to collect my Superdream frame from Rood Automotive, the guy I dealt with is Ollie. Cost was £100, turn round was 3 days, I could not collect it yesterday as I was not well enough to drive.
He is no stranger to bike frames, he used to work for Langley Gates in the powder coating arm. They wanted £240 inc VAT, RPT at Ripley were talking from £120 plus VAT. I would not use them again.
The frame is still in my car I will post a photo later.
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Frame still in my motor,
Wendy has made it clear, however temporary, it can't stop in the house, so photo taken in situ in boot of car.
I'm chuffed with the finish, frame number staming still legible on the headstock as requested.
.
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. (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54200432598_33fdcdb5d8_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qzvoid)PXL_20241212_140258300 (https://flic.kr/p/2qzvoid) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54199291977_ca35375eab_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qzpxek)PXL_20241212_140329939 (https://flic.kr/p/2qzpxek) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Ted, who’s in charge you or Wendy? 😂😂
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Jonny dont start that war!!
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I surrendered that battle long ago Johnny, how else could I have managed 46 years. ;D ;D ;D
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I know the way Ted! Thought it woul look nice with some tinsel and leds in the Hall? Frame looks nice, hope you are getting clear of the dreaded “lurgy�
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We are both experiencing the green shoots of recovery, I still have a temperature, the ear ache might be unrelated. ;)
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You won’t be feeling very good still Ted? Onward though get it out of the system before Crimbo!
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Sorry for the sideways but anybody want to guess how many led on this 8ft tree?
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1000?
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You won’t be feeling very good still Ted? Onward though get it out of the system before Crimbo!
Christmas Day 2022 we both had Covid (again) , only ray of sunshine was the birth of 7 white Chihuhuas that morning.
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Bit low Johnny
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I would not leave them on if you are out of the room Bryan, over a thousands reads like a potential fire risk.
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1700 Bryan?
Great looking frame Ted. Did the price include all the brackets etc?
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2 sets of 3000 plus one set of 2000.
The boss told me i was not allowed to spiders web from branch to branch so the run strats in middle up a branch going round spurs then back to middle to get to next branch.
Total load less than 5amp for the lot Ted, cant feel any heat from the lot at all.
The boss told "there are gaps!"
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1700 Bryan?
Great looking frame Ted. Did the price include all the brackets etc?
I only sent the bare frame plus the steel half-pipe front engine bracket. Small stuff I will paint myself as per my previous builds.
I decided against having the rear swing arm powder coated for a numer of reasons. A member of the Real SD forum has repaired my center stand that had a partially rotted leg and painted it in 2K gloss black f.o.c.
I've left the Fork Ears with Ollie to powder coat them in a dull chrome effect, new ones are daft money, re-chroming even dafter.
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2 sets of 3000 plus one set of 2000.
The boss told me i was not allowed to spiders web from branch to branch so the run strats in middle up a branch going round spurs then back to middle to get to next branch.
Total load less than 5amp for the lot Ted, cant feel any heat from the lot at all.
The boss told "there are gaps!"
Is that 5 amps of your UK 240 A/C volts into the transformers, 1200 watts in total, you can turn the radiator stat down!
Trust they are the better type of wiring loom that starts off with loads of wires then the last run has just the two wires, so when an LED fails it just knocks out one small branch of lights? I've never figured out how that works, I guess its a combination of series and parellel wiring loops.
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Hell! How long did that take to put them up? Think you’ll need your shades on in your living room!😎
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I've not been trusted with the Christmas tree since the great tree debacle of 2015 ;D
My choice,, of a natural tree (local common scheme that allows you to cut your own for money to their coffers) resulted in a "ahem" sparse distribution of branch and greenery "ratio" :) tried to manoeuvre my way out of it by naming it Twiggy, a veritable supermodel of tree form ;D
That cut no ice with Mrs K or the K minors, at that time.
For ever remembered, fondly by me, but no other.
They still bring it up ::)
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I've not been trusted with the Christmas tree since the great tree debacle of 2015 ;D
My choice,, of a natural tree (local common scheme that allows you to cut your own for money to their coffers) resulted in a "ahem" sparse distribution of branch and greenery "ratio" :) tried to manoeuvre my way out of it by naming it Twiggy, a veritable supermodel of tree form ;D
That cut no ice with Mrs K or the K minors, at that time.
For ever remembered, fondly by me, but no other.
They still bring it up ::)
🤣🤣🤣
Our first encounter with the real tree purchase for our sitting room - I thought since our ceiling was 8’ we would order an 8’ tree, but I didn’t know was an 8’ tree was actually 10’ +! 🤣🤣 Thankfully out of our system now after many years (with a smaller version) we now have an artificial one.
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We have an ‘artificial’ tree. My wife and I went on a craft course to build a tree out of recycled scaffolding boards. Once it’s decorated if you stand some distance from it and squint so your vision blurs it looks just like a real one. Well, ok, it doesn’t really but we love it.
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The 8ft in the pic was bought after christmas in a big garden centre for less than half marked price and yes it took a while to put the lights on , about 3 to 4 hours over 2 days, my geriatric old back gave in on first day
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Nothing much doing on the SD due to my current bout of not-man-flu. Just a bit of background that is probably of no interest to anyone but as I'm struggling to sleep here goes.
I wrote to the long term PO soon after buying the SD to get a handle on where the bike has been since he parted with it. I included my e-mail address etc, no response so that was a dead end.
Yesterday being bored and effectively house bound I decided to clear out some of my old e-mail. I opened my junk mail folder to find several hundred messages that had been classed as junk by MS Outlook. As I scrolled down I spotted the name of the Superdream long term PO as the sender, however Outlook had auto deleted the body of the file so I could not open the file. After a lot of going round in circles I managed to restore the file.
This PO bought the bike in May 2011 finally selling it to a trader LMT Motorcycles in Little Addington in May 2024. It appears that it was then sold on to a new owner in the Leicester area between May-Sept 2024, then sold on the the PO who I bought it from who lives in a Leicester suberb.
LMT have a sales website with some interesting bikes & cars listed that might be of interest to sohc members, I see it as potentially useful state of the market price indicator. They seem to have an eclectic range of ICE vehicles. No idea how realistic the asking prices are but some do look reasonable.
https://showroom.ebaymotorspro.co.uk/LMT-Motorcycles-LTD?page=1
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Turns out the long term owner of my CB400NA did a deal and bought an early black CB250NA.
He has some new 400 parts that might be available, I'm waiting to see what he has.
I've actually done some faffing about in the garage this afternoon as I feel I'm recovering at last from the coughing bug.
Update, Over the weekend I received my three SS wheel spacers from Max - top bloke who will get a mention on the Superdream sites.
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Nice new wheel spacers from Max - top bloke.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54212342004_6f2f515f76_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qAyqxN)PXL_20241217_184658796 (https://flic.kr/p/2qAyqxN) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Starting to recover from the coughing bug.
When my brother helped me remove the engine I put it on this newly acquired 6 wheeled trolley.
I was able to pull it up the ramp onto the bike stand with ease, no help needed.
I plan to fully clean the engine and paint it without full dismantling, hence the catch tray.
Obviously the underneath will be the more difficult part.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54212342019_23946434bc_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qAyqy4)PXL_20241218_094500265 (https://flic.kr/p/2qAyqy4) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Drain it and turn it upside down mate
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Fine to see it progressing Ted and glad to hear your on the mend! These spacers look ace! Might have to consider a set for my next project, which will be swerving away from what Honda intended!😜
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Feeling much better today so I spent 40 minutes in the garage before the cold started to get to my knees.
I removed the starter motor from the casing, put a bung in the casing to keep dirt out for when I resume cleaning the assembled engine.
The starter motor on the Superdream is at the front of the engine so it gets all the weather & road grime on it, also my model did away with a kick start leaving a bump start as the only alternative if the starter fails. As I have a couple of spare working starter motors that came with the bike I'm not going to dismantle the starter (never taken a bike one apart yet) just a clean of the alloy ends & paint the steel casing part methinks.
This is the motor after the first petrol wash & quick clean with a soft brush in theb Dremel Tool.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54230877477_c88d382f1b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qCcquV)PXL_20241228_140026310 (https://flic.kr/p/2qCcquV) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Greetings Ted,
Glad you are improving - this stuff that seems to be going around takes longer to shift as we get older!
Anyway, I would personally strip the starter - especially without a kick start as back-up. There's never been much wrong with the ones I've stripped but often found quite a bit of brush dust (always worth removing) and an occasional brush sticking in the holder, which is often the reason for them not working. Is it the same as 400/4?
Ian
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It looks very similar to the 400 & 500 ones.
My worry is pulling off an end and then being unable to get it back together! I assume the gear end will be just a bearing, the other end is where the commutator/ brushes sit with wires from the outer housing involved. Sounds like a recepie for disaster, if it ain't broke don't fix it Ian?
I might look for a video.
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Hi, Ted.
Take the leap. I did mine on the 550 and found it very straight forward without any special tools needed.
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Your shout Ted
They are really simple to dismantle - release oil on threads and heads, a good fitting JIS bit in a ratchet and remove the 3 long screws. Grip the flanged end in soft jaws and just pull the body off. There are a few end float shims to rescue and Bob's your Dad's brother!
Would you want to leave all this (conductive) crap in there?
[attach=1]
The two brushes were both tight in their holders too. This is an untouched (until just now) spare from a 400/4
[attach=2]
Ian
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Agreed Ted, I did mine on the CB360 and found it very straightforward and definitely worthwhile , I could be wrong but can’t see it being very different and If I can do it, you certainly can.
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Just spent most of the night in A&E as Wendy has been unwell for over three weeks. Now they are saying it's Viral so no more antibiotics, just go back if she coughs up blood!
I'm seeing sense now, the starter motor will be dismantled, easier to paint when it's in bits. Two long screws now being soaked in releasing fluid. Pricey for brushes & new bolts at £30.00 if needed.
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The two long screws are very tight, they have been there since 1980., more soaking in releasing oil. I'm going to use my old fashioned lump hammer driven impact tool tomorrow, might add a bit of heat with my electric paint stripping gun.
Worse case scenario is saw through the bolts then put bolt shaft in vice and turn
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Ted, if you grip the plain part of the long screws in the vice with a little bit of clearance between the body and the vice, you can then rock (twist) the body a few degrees back and forth and the screws will let go, especially after a bit of heat at the thread and head ends. I've not been beaten yet and those had not been moved since 1975!
Ian
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Never thought of that Ian, good tip.
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This morning I decided to follow the advice given by a number of members and dismantle the starter motor.
The first long screw came out pretty easily using Ian's tip, clamping the long bolt and moving the starter motor body, then with my JIS screwdriver it loosened up nicely. Part nipped it back up to do the second side.
On the second screw it was seized solid on the none threaded end, after a lot of messing about getting nowhere I cut through the bolt shaft with my Dremel cutting Disc (brilliant cutter courtesy of Ken) the threaded end undid easily when I put the bolt shaft in the vice.
I clearly cut the other end off too close to the housing cap so I have drilled off the JIS head and washer. I've cut the other side off as close to the housing as I could get. The un-threaded shaft does not want to come out, it's at times like this I miss a Pillar drill.
At present I've put the end cap in the freezer whilst I gather up the energy to drill out the small remaing bolt part, tapping with a center punch has faied to move it, likewise heat from my heat gun. I might need to look at a way of pressing it out, not that easy as the housing has a sort of lip to hold the O ring in place.
Meanwhile looking at the starter motor shaft, the commutator has no step worn in it, I've wiped off the light carbon deposit with some meths on a rag. Not sure what to use the clean the rest of the rotor with. The contact screw to the live terminal on the brushes was loose.
The light brown coating on the main part of the starter motor rotor (?) part is missing at the drive end, I can't see any contact marks with the outer coils so not sure if this is normal?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54235951108_ef0d01c611_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qCDqHj)Superdream commutator (https://flic.kr/p/2qCDqHj) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Ted
Pillar drill you miss. If space isn't the issue, I'm clearing out my deceased dad's house next weekend. There is one there you are welcome to FOC. Its only an Aldi Parkside affair but does the job (I have had one for years)
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Ted
Pillar drill you miss. If space isn't the issue, I'm clearing out my deceased dad's house next weekend. There is one there you are welcome to FOC. Its only an Aldi Parkside affair but does the job (I have had one for years)
I have no idea how much room I need for a Pillar drill, I'll PM you.
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Back on the Starter Motor, at the output gear end there was a pronged washer plus two shims plus what looks like a fibre washer. I failed to record what side the fibre washer fitted! Is it towards the commutator or the three pronged washer?
The brushes are 10.80 mm long, they look okay, no idea what the new or minimum length should be.
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I had a response from an e bay seller, new brushes are 12 mm in length, mine are 10.8 mm so probably just bed in.
Looking at it logicaly the two thin shims go against the commutator boss, the fibre one will be against the pronged spacer to act as a cushion.
The casing seals are intact, at almost £18 for the two from DS I'll use what I have, I'll just fit a new seal on the outer boss where it goes into the engine.
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Spent an hour or so in the garage, cleaned up one of the starter motor end caps.
Not going to go too mad with polishing (sorry Ken) as you can barely see it once fitted.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54242282353_dd8a7279eb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qDcSLH)PXL_20250102_151612720 (https://flic.kr/p/2qDcSLH) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Starter motor back together & works off the bike.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54253213885_29c4341b77_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qEaUkp)PXL_20250107_201938498 (https://flic.kr/p/2qEaUkp) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Just degreased these foot rest mounts, the insides were full of grime & grease. Some overpainted black Hammerite on the edges with a few marks on the alloy.
A member on the SD site thinks they were Anodised originally, not sure what to do to make them look better?
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54255944696_a57a794f63_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qEpU7m)Honda 400NA Superdream (https://flic.kr/p/2qEpU7m) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Hi Ted. Suspect he was wrong on that re anodising. It will be the same finish as Cb750F2. Maybe someone here could advise. Lacquered polished alloy would be my call.
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Nice job on the starter motor, Ted. Peace of mind now, much smarter and won’t need doing for another 40 years.
I too doubt the brackets would have been anodised. Satin polish and lacquer is my best bet. Or even paint and lacquer?
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Thanks for the replies, tbh I think they are painted/lacquered not anodised as has been said on the SD site, hence why I asked here.
I'm going to find a container with a lid so I can strip them with my Paramous stuff, then give them some polishing, not sure if I will leave them polished or re-paint.
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There is always recourse to powder coat in a nice shade of silver?
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Thought I would give one of the alloy plates 17 minutes with some coarse green wheels to start with, not a bad start atm.
I have concluded that they were not painted, possible lacquered, hard to tell, so far so good. (I have a spare pair that came with the box of spares)
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54256720809_21cbd68e65_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qEtSPB)PXL_20250109_173644278 (https://flic.kr/p/2qEtSPB) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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These wheels/discs are great Ted! That’s going to bling up nicely.
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Spent another 30-40 minutes on the part using finer wheels, oddly enough they look almost worse at this stage, as has been mentioned before by Ken.
This is what an original one looks like, it's the other side bracket if link works.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54256721787_0bacd0174d_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qEtT7t)IMG-20240830-155755 (https://flic.kr/p/2qEtT7t) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54257795493_0168b417ce_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qEzohD)PXL_20250110_084116220 (https://flic.kr/p/2qEzohD) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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The best results I have had with casings is polish smooth first then go over with the green scotchbrite mop gives a nice satin finish. Scotchbrite treatment on that bracket now Ted wouldn’t be far off the mark. Depends on the desired finish of course.😜
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Thanks for that tip Johnny, I was going to search for it as I remember it being posted to give a Satin finish.
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Collected my Superdream fork ears from the powder coaters today, firm is based at Clay Cross near Chesterfield (Ollie at Rood Motors).
The old units were quite badly rusted on the inside surfaces with old silver paint & rust pimples. I did not expect a perfect job due to the rusting, I did no preparation work that if I had would have made the rear surfaces better than they are. The price for the job (£30 pair) so I took a chance.
I was told the Chrome effect was obviously not as good as chrome so not to expect too much.
Well pleased with the outer parts that you can see, inside faces surfaces a bit wavy but mostly out of sight they.(inside the tubes looks ok)
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54269957283_af3f5a3203_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qFDHyF)PXL_20250116_135343956 (https://flic.kr/p/2qFDHyF) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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They look great Ted. Hard to tell it's not chrome.
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That’s a lovely job Ted! Hard to believe it’s not chrome by your pics.
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Nice job again Ted. Seems like that coating guy is a good find.
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That’s looks a seriously good job!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the comments, not going so well with the footrest bracket polishing. I moved from Kens Plastic wheels to my buffing wheel too soon.
Result is the edges are good but the main flat areas look like the craters on the moon. Going back to using the plastic discs is hard work as the surface is so smooth.
Not sure what to do now, I'm thinking of using Wet & Dry in a sanding block to rough it all up again, possibly 320 grit.
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You need some fine flap wheels Ted, good for large flat areas. The ones you find on eBay tend to only come in 80 grit but there are some 40, 60, 80, 120, 180, 240 and 360 versions available if you know where to look. I’ll pm you a link tomorrow but they need adapting to fit a Dremel.
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When the surface has gouges or heavy pitting, I use a fine flat file and file it smooth, then 320 lightly, a lot of 400 and then 600 followed by a coarse sisal mop on the bench grinder with black soap...and then medium mop with green/yellow soap and finally polish with fine mop and white soap and then hand finish with solvol.
There's phone advice and mops/soaps here https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/
And a good powerful bench grinder like the 750 watt SIP makes things much easier..https://www.sip-group.com/product/category/106/sip-10%22-professional-bench-grinder/07650
Also get a decent respirator Ted and a balaclava plus goggles it's a dirty job and you don't want that in eyes or lungs 😊👍👍
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As you've surmised Ted, likely you'll have to "flat" it with file or block type abrasive arrangement to reduce undulations in surface.
You can use one of those house decorators rubber/Cork material blocks to facilitate abrasive materials. They'll give softer edge to help work around the area that has a boss sticking out too.
Light pressure cuts with 180 grit should bring it back to flat plane first, then successive increases in grit number to take it finer.
Use paraffin or "maintenance spray" from Asda to keep it lubricated as you work, this to prevent pickup and risk of a gouge from that being pushed across the surface. Maintenance spray is cheaper than wd40 :) it's how wind tunnel aluminium models were hand finished a while back.
The effect you've currently got is a little like aluminium cylinder bores that use a flexible hone to remove material around harder particals in the casting, called a "Hypereutectic" tool to particularly target this effect.
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Thanks for the tips Ken,HE & Nigel.
Interestingly I've found Solvol dulls my final Soap finish.
Ken has found a Gold Ultra fine finishing Soap.
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Have you tried these Ted ? I have found the plastic wheels work on engine covers etc but these flap wheels are effective on harder material. Very useful to have as an option
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186399186277?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&ff=11&customid=CjwKCAiAnKi8BhB0EiwA58DA4clKHFvQARjxQTEB50xeSIXUKaILM9TJmjJBGi5p8tQA4Q0h5PAmJBoCFecQAvD_BwE
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Ted, I came across this classic bike dealer/breaker when looking for something. He has a whole load of 250 Superdream parts for sale. There may be something that you could use. See pic attached.
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Thanks TD I'll give them a ring, the wheels in the photo are reverse comstars probably for a CB250NC.
I did expect the rear drive cushion rubbers to need replacement, on removal not only were they all hard as rock, a PO had wound some sort of cloth type tape around the four drive lugs to make them a tighter fit, you can see the material in the right of the photo.
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54276095653_c21153a740_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGcbhD)PXL_20250117_111431162 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGcbhD) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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So during todays mild weather did my first clean of the Comstar rear wheel in an effort to clean the grime off the hub center and the back of the spokes where the Spiders have been living.
Just used some Bilt Hambler Surfex-HD to start with, revealed a sort of pale yellow colour on the inside, might be paint, might be how they left the factory. These wheels seem harder to clean than normal spoked wheels. Not used the jet washer yet, I'll persevere with an old tooth brush and the cleaner for a couple more times.
Photo is after the first clean.
. (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54279157706_a10390ce36_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qGsSwE)PXL_20250121_134236393 (https://flic.kr/p/2qGsSwE) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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...revealed a sort of pale yellow colour on the inside, might be paint, might be how they left the factory...
Likely like/similar to Alodine, zinc chromate or zinc phosphate corrosion inhibitor...
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...revealed a sort of pale yellow colour on the inside, might be paint, might be how they left the factory...
Likely like/similar to Alodine, zinc chromate or zinc phosphate corrosion inhibitor...
An old post on here has suggested the spokes are Cadmium plated on some variants.
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Your examples look like all aluminium Ted. That's from details I can see in your photo.
Some were steel spokes with satin chrome and have clearly different appearance from the all alloy fitment.
Both rim and spoke on all aluminium are effectively "forged" by rolling of that material. It makes them particularly resistant to surface cracks etc, as such forming a characteristic within their long term performance.
Anodised to finish, again it very effectively protects the structural integrity by not allowing propagation of any corrosion points into fissure that would degrade them.
They are pretty tough and resilient generally, but I'd ideally try to conserve the original surface and not use anything abrasive on them if possible.
The paint on internal surfaces doesn't look original. Agree it appears a proprietary type coating that could be from aircraft industry norm that's been applied.
High acid or alkaline type cleaners (road film remover ? ) can cause the anodised layer to go "milky".
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...revealed a sort of pale yellow colour on the inside, might be paint, might be how they left the factory...
Likely like/similar to Alodine, zinc chromate or zinc phosphate corrosion inhibitor...
An old post on here has suggested the spokes are Cadmium plated on some variants.
"CAD" plate usually looks yellow in appearance a little like yellow passivated zinc from my experience a long way back.
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Ooh, forgot, check spokes with a magnet to give binary id, steel or not :)
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Thanks for your replies Nigel, the spokes must be some sort of alloy as they are definetely not steel, I tried my small torch magnet, then double checked with a very powerful aquarium magnet, zero attraction.
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Stainless isn't always magnetic
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Stainless isn't always magnetic
:) yes agree, but put a provision of "binary" split in assessment.
From contemporary knowledge, I don't "think" there were stainless construction offered in production wheels. Could be wrong though :)
The 750 f2 were steel and satin chrome with many others aluminium alloy convex or inverted design. Unsure of 125T, CX 500, CB 650 etc.
There may have been stainless spoke arrangement on racer RCB that I think was first use of this generic design in 1976.
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True DomP, I've also not eliminated plastic.😄😄😀
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I thought stainless was rarely magnetic, unless cheepo stuff
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There is an entry on Wiki as well.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comstar_wheel#:~:text=What%20metal%20the%20spokes%20were,to%20further%20reduce%20unsprung%20mass.
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I thought stainless was rarely magnetic, unless cheepo stuff
Properties can shift according to alloying mix and the attributes those bring.
"Types of stainless steel
Stainless steel comes in over 57 types of standard alloy, as well as numerous custom alloys produced by stainless steel manufacturers. The composition of each type varies. Based on their metallurgical properties and microstructures, stainless steels can be divided into five categories:
Austenitic Stainless Steels
Ferritic Stainless Steels
Martensitic Stainless Steels
Duplex Stainless Steels
Precipitation-hardened Steels
The Duplex stainless steel combines austenitic and ferritic crystals, so it offers the best of both worlds and is magnetic whilst also having generally greater corrosion resistance than the austenitic 304 and 316 stainless steels."
Quoted from here https://www.eclipsemagnetics.com/resources/guides/are-all-stainless-steels-magnetic/ some are more condusive to welding, while work hardening etc also varies.
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With the milder spell I have started to assemble some of the frame bits over the last few of days, center stand is in place.
Steering shaft outer races fitted to steering column, painted the front steering shaft ready for fitting bottom race and fitting the column. A taper roller kit that was cheaper than the standard ball bearing races, old bearings were well rusted. (JMT Kit was from M&P on offer at £10.18)
The kit came with a bottom spacer, I will be fitting an improved bottom seal that is attached to a thin spacer rather than the rubber original type. I have a selection of thinner bottom spacers that I can use left over from my 400 build.They are steel JCB bucket shims in various thicknesses that are the correct i/d & o/d. My bearing puller tool will remove a bottom race undamaged if I need to change the spacer under the bottom bearing.
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Not much of an update really as cold spell with no warm house to retreat into has slowed down progress.
Frame is on the bike stand, hit a snag with my fix for the worn frame hole for the center stand, not a big snag but enough for some cogitating to occur. When the center stand is used the return spring pushes the stand boss towards the olive that I made. >:( >:( >:(
I have a cunning plan Lord Black Adder. ;D ;D ;D
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#(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54304622479_b4eab20223_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qJHojt)Frame after powder coating (https://flic.kr/p/2qJHojt) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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The brake lever/pivot sleeve is somewhat sloppy due to wear, both the lever & the insert are NLA.
Hard to work out which part has the most wear, the collar or the insert
What is the way forwards to fix this sort of problem?
Presumably members working on rarer model Hondas come up against this problem.
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Probably a brass bush turned to fit the worn shaft and the hole for the insert
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When I dismantled the center stand I found that the centre pivot shaft was broken quite close to the brake pedal bracket that bolts into the end of the shaft. Clearly this damage had been present for a long time leading to wear in the frame at the left side as the shaft was pretty free to wobble about.
The original stand shaft looks as thought the end part is pressed into the shaft as it was serated at the end, this has kept it in place for many years.
When the brake was applied the whole bracket was moving as the end bolt was finger tight, this might explain why the wear is mainly on the left side of the brake lever, the outer end has relatively little play.
Reversing the insert does not significantly change the amount of play, the brake pedal though has some serious wear to the inner left side. There is not a lot of material to cut into to make it good with an oversize bush/insert.
I'm going to start fitting the steering shaft whilst I mull over my options, I'm still working on the footrest hangar plates, I have a couple of spare sets that came with the bike to practice on. I'm thinkng a Matt finish might be more practical, still needs the preparation work.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54316254736_a2f936cb0c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qKK1bC)PXL_20250209_122409225 (https://flic.kr/p/2qKK1bC) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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You don't look very hard Ted.
https://tnortheast.co.uk/product/honda-rear-brake-pedal-3/ That's in the UK.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/405524299941?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D280787%26meid%3D3cdc28310ca94d7ca76c6d4fbedbdce6%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D156593564115%26itm%3D405524299941%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2332490%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V6WitheBertDiversityReRank%26brand%3DUnbranded%252FGeneric&_trksid=p2332490.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A4055242999413cdc28310ca94d7ca76c6d4fbedbdce6%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABIHq5%252FnIFMUEf6B1DI668RyGdRfI6covxK3pfZkGKdoYSD8Fc9U2pW3qa7utGenAYTjdfByflhHAGpP35vZGf%252F95UitaOvYeQnDZS57Zl9zzC7M7gAlkxEwZJqRDpbWgYFTOyaP81iEPAom%252BVDBczgYNOp0vgTWi6XLNAH%252FE2eUowuOmJCGXurBMUUkgnSPDHxdb%252FeHFXITxuzBYJUgG3HcPwBjPvELmqUjCo00c0Z0CWuzXF%252Fect%252BKmfC8iQno5w07p1Z0nLGaNlYHzqJNFoEmkTmlXOVFdBACO7sut0gm8DN%252FJ4PeJEcJfB%252B%252BYVvaS7%252BXmRYjtb57Utx1DltYdQt79NvZSPsAcouHzO2Gs80Dtnb3osTEITxRenTjTJo%252FhEeQ%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01JKNHAYKKJXZZYM2CE9N9ZYJP Used but cheap and looks to have the bush.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/363923129274 That's in the USA.
https://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/MLB-2618430049-bucha-pedal-freio-cb400450-original-honda-46501-413-000-_JM South America I think.
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You are a star Ken, I must have a poor search engine!
At first I thought I had made a Typo claiming to be related to one of the Kray Twins, I'm a Pussycat really not hard at all.lol
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I've had a good couple of hours on the SD this afternoon, the headstock taper roller kit I bought fitted a treat, just did away with the thick base spacer, I fitted a thinner one I had in my box of bits.
Trouble is when something goes well I'm looking for a knock on problem.
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I've had a good couple of hours on the SD this afternoon, the headstock taper roller kit I bought fitted a treat, just did away with the thick base spacer, I fitted a thinner one I had in my box of bits.
Trouble is when something goes well I'm looking for a knock on problem.
🤭 yes I’ve had that feeling Ted when things are going well, your looking over you shoulder so to speak! 😂 in my case it’s not being pessimistic it’s being realistic! 🤭
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Ah well me and Ted are too old to look over our shoulder(s), the arthritis wont let us turn that far!
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The brake pedal from T Northeast (Kens search) arrived today, I'm not sure if it's a period repro or NOS tbh. There were a couple of old labels on the shaft held on with very brown selotape.
It needs a little bit of Solvol-Autosol in a couple of areas to clean off a few minor rust spots, absolutely no movement using the existing center collar. That's saved the need for a new center collar as well, nice one Ken.
I think I have found an answer to tidying up the Comstars after a few email exchanges with Camcoat, another hot tip from Ken.
Full Ceramic coating was way out of my budget at £432 plus carriage for the pair. The manager Nick Adams has come up with an interesting alternative a matt silver Ceramic spray for £85 per wheel plus Vat, Sounds very promising.
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If it’s got those labels it’s a nos one, I think they are attached by the main depots back in the day
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I'm going to have to remove the wheel bearings from the Comstar wheels prior to painting, the manual says no lock rings, just drift them out? That's not what I expected!
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I've just removed the wheel bearings prior to deciding how far to go with improving the look of my Comstar wheels.
At one end of the spectrum I'm looking at an inexpensive option, a powder coated chrome/alloy look (like my fork ears) for £80 ish for the pair. At the other end of the scale £432 at Camcoat. I've never compromised on wheels rebuild costs before, being mindfull of end cost v value I'm still uncertain what to do.
Anways enough of my blabbering thoughts, a new question here about wheel bearings. The rear wheel bearings were replaced in 2014 at 49,561 miles, the bike has only covered 1,117 miles in the last 10 years or so. The front bearings look original so I will replace them.
The rear wheel bearings are a bit of a conundrum as there is quite a lot of general surface rust where some water has managed to get into the rear hub affecting the outside of the left side bearing, some rusting of the hub steel band & the outside of the spacer.
Does the grease in a wheel bearing go hard with doing so little mileage in 10 years, the left seal is a modern fully sealed one, the right side is sealed only on the outside. Am I skimping to even consider putting them back in?
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Ted, just go to a bearing supplier and order by number on the outer race, specify 2RS type, you will probably get all 4 for less than £20.
I would even use fleabay ones
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Short answer, yes.
From looking it looks like you need a 63042RS and a 6303ZZ for the rear wheel and 2 x 6302ZZ for the front. If the bearings come out with only a metal or plastic seal on one side only then just remove one seal from the new bearings. Rs are plastic seals, ZZ are metal.
Try Hendersons, SKF or NSK are a good make. Around £5-6 each.
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Thanks Guys, I'll check the markings on the existing bearings & oil seals.
Updated
Ordered seals and bearings from bearingsrus came to £19.18
Bearings are by Dunlop, I'll never wear them out at my age.
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I've just started to add a few items to the frame, I've fitted the wiring loom to the frame as the air box is so close to the frame the loom will not fit afterwards.
Honda never listed the air box to carb rubbers separately so there is no part number(s) listed.
Aftermarket ones are available as a separate item but do not seem to be handed. My rubbers look okay but appear to be handed, my two are either both left side or both right side?
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My Comstar wheels arrived back from Camcoat today. I went for a basic wet ceramic spray satin silver/alluminium colour finish to save on cost. TBH they are a tad darker than I expected, that said they look much better than they did. I'll post some photos later.
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Just a photo update, I'm presently cleaning some small parts for painting black before fitting to the frame.
Killing time whilst I wait for Bob Minions to source me some tyres of the right size, might be several weeks as Avon Road Rider 2 are out of stock. Alternatives are Bridgestone BT46R / L303F - they are a tad cheaper, I've never been a fan of Bridgstone on cars.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54399075461_df3d58c06c_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2qT4tUa)PXL_20250320_162712065 (https://flic.kr/p/2qT4tUa) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Looking very Tidy, Ted.
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Coming together nicely Ted, liking the alphabetical bins system!
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Coming together nicely Ted, liking the alphabetical bins system!
I also keep track of the contents of each bin that contains bike parts on an XL spreadsheet - I've too much time on my hands. :(
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Better to be browsing the spreadsheet in the comfort of the home rather than rummaging around in the cold garage getting harassed! 😂
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Today I manged to undo all 8 of the screws that hold the two carbs together, a couple were quite stubborn but came out eventually.Its a sort of upper and lower bracket arragement rather than a normal manifold. The two brackets have quite bad surface corrosion, they are a yellowish colour originally I think. Is this some sort of Zinc plated finish?
Is there an inexpensive way to improve the appearance, Gold coloured metallic paint perhaps if it can take the heat?
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Ted, Without seeing it, hard to be sure. Probably zinc plated, yellow passivated.
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Thanks, I couldn't remember the yellow passivated expression, I'll see if my local platers offer an affordable service.
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I collected these items for the TL125 yesterday Ted. £40 in total although I did clean them all up, de-burred and wire brushed everything before I took them in.
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I think they left the yellow parts in the passivate a bit too long Dave, that's damn near gold, it's supposed to be a light yellow.
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I think it's the flash on the camera Ken, its much darker than that in real life. The coil holder is a difficult part to plate apparently because its laminated the passivate drips out from between the laminations as its drying causing streaking (although Gary the plater has been in the ttrade for so long he doesn't get that problem).
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My M3 X5 x 0.5 mm brass washers arrived a couple of days ago, they are a perfect fit on my mixture screw fitting.
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My brother came over to help me fit the rear drive hub circlip yesterday, I could not press the chain ring down and fit the big circlip on my own. What a difference an extra pair of hands made. He actually come over to help me move some wooden shelving out of the rear bedroom ready for the new boiler installation next month.
Today I thought I could just fit the new genuine Honda Dust seal on the rear hub on my own. I've almost had it fitted twice for it to let go again.
Is there a trick to this or is it a case of needing another pair of hands holding one side in place whilst the assistant pushes the other half of the inner lip over the oversize washer ?
I started with a dry dust seal, then using Red Rubber grease, I've been closest to success with the use of grease.
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You need an army of trained spiders with mechanical aptitued Ted or just determination and luck
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You need an army of trained spiders with mechanical aptitued Ted or just determination and luck
As I have fitted new drive cushions I suspect I will need an extra pair of hands to press down on the sprocket, this gives a slightly wider gap for the lip to fit over the washer. It will have to wait for my brother to help me.
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Finally fitted the drive hub dust seal, two pairs of hands made the difference - thanks brother Paul. ( He isn't a Monk)
Both carbs now cleaned, assembled then attached to the pair of mounting brackets.
Next task will be fitting the rear wheel into the frame to check if the 500T swing arm is fully suitable. There will be an unknown drop in rear ride height