Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: TezzerTel on November 26, 2024, 04:19:13 PM
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As the title really how much spoke tension? I've got my wheels re-spoked with new stainless rims from CWC but just how much tension is needed on the spokes? There running fairly true but there's a bit of a 'kick' where the weld is which I can't seem to do much about
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Have they been trued to the rim or the bead? It’s Best to true to the bead. Incoming…..
As for tension, as long as they are tight and sound the same, they should be fine.
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I read somewhere (possibly on here) to true to the bead where the tyre will sit and that made sense to me so that's what I've done
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I’m absolutely no authority on the topic, but a trusted source advised me to do it that way too.
On the original question, I assume all the spokes are taught and pass the tuning fork test?
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What do you call the 'tuning fork test' ?
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Ting, ting, ting all the way around with no tongs!
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Obviously no Ting-Tongs either. :-* :-* :-*
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Yes but I guess the question is how much 'ting' ?
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Gimme dat ting, same on every one, and you will NEVER get rid of the weld "kick"
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I was trying to remember who sang that Bryan, I will have to google unless you know?
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I thought it was Rankin Toyan but Mr Google says it was The Pipkins.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vs6gnsAtjXw
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Yup Pipkins
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I am re-spoking my CB750F1 now. I start by oiling all the threads on the spokes. Starting with the inners followed by the outers. I thread them on 2-3 turns until all spokes are in place. Then I slowly go around and use my fingers only to get each spoke showing the same amount of threads.(it's usually 2 or 3 ) and snug them with your fingers only. This gets you in the ballpark of center. At this point i mark up the rim in equal quadrants across from each other (four or two in each quadrant) mark them A,A1,B,B1 etc.... then I get a strawberry milkshake! and start tuning. Working the up and down first to get the rim as round as you can. Then work on the side runout. I shoot for less than 0.5mm and that it is very attainable.At this point after going around for a couple hours to get it true.Going back and re checking the up and down runout and correcting as you go. All of the spokes will have tension on them.
Now with the rim true and center I start tightening starting with quadrant "A" tighten all spokes in that quadrant 1/4 turn. Then do quadrant "A1" witch is 180 across do the entire rim until you have tightened all quadrants. I usually go around 2-3 times until you get the proper "ting"
All the spokes should be under tension at this time and Have a nice ring or ting sound. All the spokes will not be the same tension. If you want them all the same your rim will not be True.
And yes you will never get the weld bump out. It is usually not that severe especially on DID rims.
The question of the proper ting is hard to answer. I have done a lot if rims and it the feel of the spoke wrench and the sound of the spokes. The second or third time around there will be some great resistance on the spoke wrench. Having the threads lubricated is critical.
Ozzybud
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I am re-spoking my CB750F1 now. I start by oiling all the threads on the spokes. Starting with the inners followed by the outers. I thread them on 2-3 turns until all spokes are in place. Then I slowly go around and use my fingers only to get each spoke showing the same amount of threads.(it's usually 2 or 3 ) and snug them with your fingers only. This gets you in the ballpark of center. At this point i mark up the rim in equal quadrants across from each other (four or two in each quadrant) mark them A,A1,B,B1 etc.... then I get a strawberry milkshake! and start tuning. Working the up and down first to get the rim as round as you can. Then work on the side runout. I shoot for less than 0.5mm and that it is very attainable.At this point after going around for a couple hours to get it true.Going back and re checking the up and down runout and correcting as you go. All of the spokes will have tension on them.
Now with the rim true and center I start tightening starting with quadrant "A" tighten all spokes in that quadrant 1/4 turn. Then do quadrant "A1" witch is 180 across do the entire rim until you have tightened all quadrants. I usually go around 2-3 times until you get the proper "ting"
All the spokes should be under tension at this time and Have a nice ring or ting sound. All the spokes will not be the same tension. If you want them all the same your rim will not be True.
And yes you will never get the weld bump out. It is usually not that severe especially on DID rims.
The question of the proper ting is hard to answer. I have done a lot if rims and it the feel of the spoke wrench and the sound of the spokes. The second or third time around there will be some great resistance on the spoke wrench. Having the threads lubricated is critical.
Ozzybud
Good advice. I just make sure the wheel is true and every spoke rings. They don't need to ring to the same pitch.