Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Recommended Sources for Parts and Services => Topic started by: Sifu on October 17, 2025, 03:11:21 PM
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hi can anyone recommend a place to get my cb750f2 sohc would be looking at full engine done
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Now Trigger has given up you will be hard pressed yo find somebody to do that with the known F2 problems expect a four figure bill for just the engine and that is without repainting or blasting the cases
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The last time I had a 400/4 engine blasted and painted it cost £950.
I think with the blasting, painting, rebore, pistons, rings new bearings throughout, primary chain, cam chain, horseshoe, clutch plates, cush drive rubbers, gaskets etc I probably spent over £3k. Apart from the rebore, valve seat cutting/lapping and blasting I did most of the work myself.
If you add labour into that figure it will cost a fortune (and that's before you've touched the carbs and the rest of the bike).
Can you not restore it yourself? It's a great way to get to know your engine and there is always help and advice here if you hit a snag👍
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Thanks for help . I’m not mechanical minded . The bike has started to have a couple of issues 1 being I’ve been told it’s electric, out for ride and when i stop and get off bike say for 10min i return and put key in nothing no dash no start . After putting key in / out a few times it lights up and starts ….2 right hand switch gear not available anymore but k7 is same but none available.
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That’s interesting, sounds like just an ignition switch fault! Is there any running issues with the engine when it is going or any such wierd noises?
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No noise. When it decides to light the dash up i use the kick start .. then it’s fine.again Friday started first time with push of button. Will try to take it for a spin this week.
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No noise. When it decides to light the dash up i use the kick start .. then it’s fine.again Friday started first time with push of button. Will try to take it for a spin this week.
Sounds like a load dependent intermitency in electrics. Crusty or insecure electrical connection that won't accept the necessary loading to keep the volts flowing. If the electric start loading causes it to croak, then that's reasonable indication of something unable to take that capacity through it's intended connection.
First point would be to check both battery terminals, their lead condition and then the other ends of those leads wherever they attach.
The back end of ignition key switch can also have this effect too, and may cause supply to drop out at inconvenient moment.
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Thanks for help . I’m not mechanical minded . The bike has started to have a couple of issues 1 being I’ve been told it’s electric, out for ride and when i stop and get off bike say for 10min i return and put key in nothing no dash no start . After putting key in / out a few times it lights up and starts ….2 right hand switch gear not available anymore but k7 is same but none available.
Definitely sounds like an ignition switch or wiring problem. Spray some contact cleaner or WD40 down the key slot and switch the key on and off a few times. Wiggle it about to see if the ignition comes on.
Also check the electrical connections to the base of the switch to see if any are loose or intermittent. Sometimes there can be an intermittent connection in the wiring loom where it goes around the headstock. Switch ignition on and move handlebars left and right to see if that shows any intermittent connection.
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Just remembered that I had an issue with my 550 years ago if you turned too tight a corner the bike just cut out! 😂 ignition switch was knacked.