Post by: Laverda Dave on December 13, 2025, 05:43:29 PM
I was gifted this bike by an old work friend last year when she emigrated to Aus. Now the Honda TL125S has departed it is the NC’s turn on the workbench.
This is going to be an occasional thread as I know it’s not a sohc :o and shouldn’t really be here but as its winter and we all get bored and look for projects to follow I thought I’d start this thread.
So, what am I going to do with this NC? Well, I don’t fancy doing a full restoration as it will become a money pit so the idea is to undertake a sympathetic restoration and get it back on the road for the summer.
First thing to do was to strip the fairing off to see what I have got. There are signs of gravel rash to both fairing lowers and although the paint and fairing is original there is a fair bit of pink going on and it looks like a 90’s shell suit so I am thinking of a respray in the original UK NC30 colour scheme (think mini RC30). The bike is filthy below the fairing and all the alloy is corroded as are the fork bottoms and the upper and lower yokes. The frame looks good with no obvious dents, twists or gravel rash. The wheels look ok from 50ft but are full of chips to the rims.
I’m going to attempt to start the engine but will first check the bores with my bore scope and I’ll whip the cam covers off and add some oil to the cams etc. I’ve had to buy a new battery, I think the reg/rec had cooked the old one, it looked like a waffle.
I don’t know how true the mileage is at 18,000 as the speedo is mainly in MPH with KPH as a secondary scale. Considering this is a 1992 model, I’m thinking the speedo was maybe changed when it arrived in the UK? If there are any experts out there on these bikes please let me know.
I am thinking of draining the coolant and replacing it with a litre of central heating cleaner, running the engine up and leaving it for a couple of days to clean the water jackets etc before draining it out and maybe repeating the process. I know these engines fur up if the coolant isn’t replaced with the correct type. Is what I am proposing wise or will it end in disaster, has anyone ever tried it? I know RRC on YouTube restored a NC and he used this method but it was on a stripped motor, my idea is to use it as a cleaning/flushing agent on a complete motor?
I’ll update the thread when I get it started.
Post by: Laverda Dave on December 13, 2025, 05:44:43 PM
Post by: Johnwebley on December 13, 2025, 06:29:58 PM
I shall really enjoy this
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Post by: Orcade-Ian on December 13, 2025, 06:41:31 PM
Looks like most of the lightly corroded bits - brake unions and the like will respond well to a rub with ACF50 or Bilt Hamber Dynax. Most of the materials in central heating systems are in the bike as well - I would give that a go and see what comes out on the first flush. Ash might know better. Pete Hamber at Bilt Hamber might have some sensible advice and suitable product - he's an industrial chemist and knows his stuff.
Another great project for us all to view instead of Strictly come Baking on Ice!
Ian
Post by: Johnwebley on December 13, 2025, 07:02:14 PM
Rick Oliver
Search for his spares and website
He is very helpful
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Post by: Rozabikes Tim on December 13, 2025, 07:15:22 PM
I'm surprised you are going for the standard colour. Few know but it's a historic fact that all yellow 400 Hondas were faster🙃
Post by: Laverda Dave on December 13, 2025, 07:56:34 PM
I was looking at Rick Oliver's site John, he's got some trick bits on there and I was reading about issues with 6th gear?
Tim, yellow :).......now that's an idea although they are supposedly good for 125mph I'm not sure adding another 25mph by the addition of a parakeet yellow paint job as I get with my 400/4 would be wise although yellow is better than the pink that is on there 8).
Post by: Bryanj on December 13, 2025, 08:24:59 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on December 13, 2025, 09:44:19 PM
Just remember to mix whichever antifreeze it need you mix with distilled or deionised water, never worked on one but dont remember any special fluhing compound for the wings or CX's, i know Cummins use a special water filter unit to stop corrosion
That's a good tip Bryan. I get plenty of distilled water from the dehumidifier, I'll have to empty it into an old anti-freeze container for when J need it👍
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 13, 2025, 10:23:32 PM
Have you considered waterless coolant as an option ?
Post by: K2-K6 on December 13, 2025, 10:47:35 PM
Worthwhile draining to see whats actually in there as it is now.
That type is usually bought pre mixed, and very effective if no leaks are present. It'll easily complete 15 yrs without much change measured.
Unsure of practicality of using central heating product, thought they were focused on iron/ferrous/copper based materials. Not sure aluminium based is in much use for domestic system. Could be wrong though.
Triumph Stag, one of the issues with that, and running without corrosion inhibitors that are part of anti freeze, was the "silt" building up in fine radiator cores to reduce heat handling capacity. Using a system cleaner, of whatever type, in this whole system, may run risk of aggressive action on the aluminium base that could do the same.
Is the radiator aluminium based too ?
Lovely bike it is though, another one with fab sound to it.
Post by: K2-K6 on December 13, 2025, 10:59:01 PM
But if its Honda spec in there, still a good chance it's OK, to empty and inspect the contents in assessment of what you've got would be first check.
If its not been diluted with water previously, it lasts fairly well generally.
Post by: magpie114 on December 14, 2025, 09:51:06 AM
I think you're right about the speedo being replaced. Looks like a Type 7 1992 Japanese model which would have had the KPH version. Model information here:
https://vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/Bvfr400r-mi.htm
Personally I'd keep the original colour scheme but I can see why you're considering the RC30 type scheme, its the best looking in my opinion.
Following with interest.
Post by: Johnwebley on December 14, 2025, 10:08:51 AM
A fairly simple mod that allows the use of UK H4 bulbs of a much greater wattage, with out burning the switch gear out,
All that is needed is a relay,2 special bulb holders, and a bit of soldering
The location is Lh side
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/57ac08e44172907ebd6b5b8c0754a03e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251214/15d8c1b9a672e1b7cb532a09a667d227.jpg)
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Post by: Laverda Dave on December 14, 2025, 10:31:57 AM
I'll go visit HGB tomorrow Nigel and check out the anti freeze and I'll also contact Pete Hamber. I think rhevrad is aluminium but I need to check.
Ted, I like the idea of waterless antifreeze as once in it is supposed to last a lifetime, again I'll check compatibility first (and the cost of it!).
Magpie, thank you for that link, I've just read it but will read it again (probably many times). Jury is still out about the paint scheme but originality is king etc but I do like the RC30 colours, a bit of a classic scheme and Tim wants me to paint it parakeet yellow, it's tempting......😁.
Nice tip about the headlight John, is that your bike👍. Are those fancy rad hoses or just direct replacements, I'll probably have to replace mine anyway.
The bike hasn't been run since 2008 so I'll be checking it over properly before hitting the button to see what I have. The PO did look after it though whilst she owned it and I know she bought the best one she could find when she did buy it. She also gave me a Haynes manual and the rear paddock stand. She wanted nothing for it but I couldn't do that and money did change hands but I still have a really nice bike to work on even though I've never heard it run I don't think I'll be disappointed 👍.
Thanks for all your help so far and I'll keep you all posted with progress.
Dave
Post by: Johnwebley on December 14, 2025, 11:32:04 AM
The reason I sold it was two fold,I was to old and inflexible, it killed my knees after about an hour's riding,
Secondly, I couldn't ride it slowly, it cruised so sweetly at 10 to 11k rpm,which is nearly 100mph,
No stress, just swooped through the corners, easy, and great brakes as well,
I could see my licence vanishing so quickly ,
Maybe I am getting old !!!
BTW,Wemoto do a great brake spares service, pistons, seals, nipples etc,
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Post by: Rozabikes Tim on December 14, 2025, 01:18:24 PM
Post by: andut on December 14, 2025, 07:29:18 PM
I have a mostly original, very low mileage NC30 in the RC30 colours, and it’s fabulous to look at and fun to ride, although not quite so comfortable as an SOHC.
As you’ve likely already read, cooling is one of the NC’s weak points, so definitely check what comes out when you drain it, and make sure the rads are as clean as possible inside and out with straight cooling fins. They don’t like sitting in traffic. Water pumps can also fail and are nla, but are repairable.
The other big weak point you have already found with the reg rec cooking the battery.
Might be worth checking valve clearances whilst the cam covers are off. They’re a pain to get to, so often overlooked in the maintenance schedule. The previously mentioned Rick Oliver does a shim swap if he has stock of what you need to keep costs down if you need a few.
Rear shock is generally a bit on the soft side - swapping to one of Rick’s Nitron shocks made my bike much more pleasant to ride and allows the option to play with ride height’s, but not a budget friendly choice, so maybe one to think about after you’ve ridden it for a few miles.
Final thing to mention is the rear tyre size. Bit difficult to get the right tyre size for the 18 inch rim these days, so keep an eye out for the identically styled 17” wheel from an RVF - quite rare and therefore expensive, but does offer tyre choices (adjustable ride height Nitron shock compensates for smaller wheel if you go that route)
Enjoy !
Post by: andut on December 14, 2025, 07:40:07 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on December 14, 2025, 09:01:28 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on December 30, 2025, 09:33:53 PM
I think the exhaust may be blowing slightly and there is a ticking coming from the front bank when hot although this could be tight valve clearances as I understand these get left as they are so hard to get to.
Anyway that's the good news. I have dropped the oil and it was golden so more good news. Prior to dropping the oil I drained the cooling system and the anti freeze looked fresh as well. Pete Hamber advised me not to use a flushing agent but just to keep refiling with distilled water until it ran clean so that's the action I took and it's all good.
So now I know it runs I've begun the strip down to clean it up and refresh some of it (especially the alloy parts) although the forks need a rebuild but the rear shock looks very clean even the spring is pristine although the remote reservoir isn't!
During the stripping process I noticed there appears to be three finishes of the various nuts and bolts, BZP, yellow passivated and a black (or very dark green). I know Honda used an olive drab finish back in the 80’s but these appear to be something else.
Does anyone have any suggestions of what the finish could be?
Dave
Post by: Johnwebley on December 30, 2025, 10:35:01 PM
Be careful with the footrest hanger Allen screws, they can be very tight,
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Post by: Laverda Dave on January 26, 2026, 12:50:47 PM
The fairing itself is damaged with a couple of tabs broken off and a large piece missing so will need repair before a re-spray in the 1989 RC30 lookalike paint colours, yes I know it’s a later model but to me the original NC30 paint scheme was the best.
A lot of the fittings are rusty, they appear to be a black zinc finish so where possible I’ll have these powder coated in satin black as I’ve been told finding a black zinc platter is nigh on impossible and if I do, they are very expensive. I might have to consider getting the various black zinc bolts finished in chemical black although this finish isn’t very durable, if anyone has any ideas on alternative black finishes I’d be happy to hear.
One of the captive nuts in the main frame rail is just turning and needs to be renewed, I have tried to remove it via gentle persuasion but it will likely have to be carefully drilled out.
As the bike has 28k showing on the speedo (miles not kph) I am going to renew all the chassis bearings whilst it is all apart.
At the moment it’s all spannering, noting, degreasing and cleaning of parts getting them ready for plating.
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on January 26, 2026, 02:03:19 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on January 26, 2026, 02:39:56 PM
Post by: Johnwebley on January 26, 2026, 04:59:19 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIzA5WYePNM
AND THIS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hz0YYP4yNN8&list=PL7gSdA4Amiqwl6Smur-gQSJwCBQtHOaEI
AND
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzqYUaMoMzQ
OF THE 3 ,THE LAST ONE IS THE MOST HUMAN,HE DOES IT MAINLY OUTSIDE !!!!
WATCH AND ENJOY
sorry about the caps
Post by: Laverda Dave on January 26, 2026, 07:53:55 PM
I've seen the first two of those, RRC turns out some amazing work and I've been using the strip down episode as a reference although the editing does leave some parts out.
I spent another afternoon in the garage today, more stripping and noting. I had to use the 1000w Clarke mpact wrench to remove the two torx bolts holding the ignition barrel to the top yoke, they were glued in and were absolutely solid. They have joined the scrap pile as a result of having the heads virtually ripped off by the impact driver!
The 41mm socket turned up this morning and the steering nut is now off, again the impact wrench had to be used.
Post by: Johnwebley on January 26, 2026, 08:15:32 PM
Thanks John.You obviously have the 36mm socket for the rear wheel,
I've seen the first two of those, RRC turns out some amazing work and I've been using the strip down episode as a reference although the editing does leave some parts out.
I spent another afternoon in the garage today, more stripping and noting. I had to use the 1000w Clarke mpact wrench to remove the two torx bolts holding the ignition barrel to the top yoke, they were glued in and were absolutely solid. They have joined the scrap pile as a result of having the heads virtually ripped off by the impact driver!
The 41mm socket turned up this morning and the steering nut is now off, again the impact wrench had to be used.
You will need torx for the calipers, those are lovely to work on,
Wemoto has seals and stainless pistons
Enjoy
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Post by: Laverda Dave on February 02, 2026, 12:16:39 AM
Prior to indulging in some heavy degreasing I thought I'd strip the fork legs. Somebody has been in there before me and has managed to completely mangle the head of the hex socket bolt holding the damper rod. Nothing fits what is left of the rounded head.
Has anyone else come across this before and if you did how did you get the bolt out? I think I might have to resort to drilling it out but that is going to be risky considering the head of the bolt is set so deeply in the recess. It's only going to take a slight deviation of the drill and I'll go into the alloy of the fork leg. I was going to try to hammer a torx headed socket in there but knowing how tight those bolts are I can't see the torx head having enough grip in the socket head.
Any ideas would be welcome 🤔.
Post by: Bryanj on February 02, 2026, 01:53:27 AM
Post by: K2-K6 on February 02, 2026, 10:37:58 AM
It's been a busy but productive weekend in the garage. The bike is now completely apart with the engine now sitting on its own on the bike lift as I removed the frame today.
Prior to indulging in some heavy degreasing I thought I'd strip the fork legs. Somebody has been in there before me and has managed to completely mangle the head of the hex socket bolt holding the damper rod. Nothing fits what is left of the rounded head.
Has anyone else come across this before and if you did how did you get the bolt out? I think I might have to resort to drilling it out but that is going to be risky considering the head of the bolt is set so deeply in the recess. It's only going to take a slight deviation of the drill and I'll go into the alloy of the fork leg. I was going to try to hammer a torx headed socket in there but knowing how tight those bolts are I can't see the torx head having enough grip in the socket head.
Any ideas would be welcome 🤔.
I do that for some, works well on softer materials to get good flank drive.
However, with steel hex internal knackered, the "spline" drive bits (think some call them triple square) bits are usually most successful in getting good drive from the butchered item.
Tap in with lump hammer, remove to clean swarf etc. Tap fully home, then first attempt with decent potency impact gun will usually see them yeald quite easily.
Emphasis of the prep and fully home/engaged to give first strike bite and highest chance of straight removal.
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 02, 2026, 12:31:38 PM
When I get home later I'll get togged up and go into the garage with a lump hammer in one hand and a drill bit in the other and see how it goes.
I'll report back in dispatches with an update 🤞
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 02, 2026, 11:01:52 PM
I was expecting the same scenario with the second fork leg but no, the bolt put up no resistance at all.
Both legs are now completely apart ready for a big clean and new bushes.
As always, this site and the knowledge contained by the members is the best.
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 16, 2026, 10:02:30 PM
First the good news, the wheels and various other parts are currently undergoing blasting and powder coating. I’m collecting all the BZP and yellow passivated parts tomorrow (one week turnaround and £60 for everything in the photo).
I took the frame, bare swing arm and footrest hangers etc for vapour blasting to R D Cox in Reading. Doug advised me not to vapour blast the frame as it is anodised and a vapour blast finish wouldn’t look good on the side beams. He told me to use steel wheel cleaner and a stiff brush. Looking around I came across an alloy wheel cleaner made by Bilt Hamber so ordered some. It was excellent; it cleaned up the castings and the beams really well. It was so good all I needed to do was to use some solvol on the two side beams and they are like new!
And the bad news, I thought the engine was all good and wouldn’t need anything more than a good clean and service. Checking the valve clearances revealed one missing valve shim, oh dear. Looking as best I could down the drive gear tunnel with a torch I couldn’t see anything. The thought of a shim floating around inside the engine fills me with dread so it was off with the sump to hopefully find the shim sitting in there. No luck although it did give me a change to clean out the sump pan. When I took the oil pick up strainer off I found a chewed up piece of metal although not a shim lodged inside (see photo). I have no idea what it is/was. I looked inside the engine from underneath with a torch but no sign of a shim.
Next I removed the cams and the cam gear drive from the front cylinders where the shim was missing from to check if it had lodged in there; it was clear so all that went back in...slowly and keeping an eye on the valve timing marks. I did notice though some score marks to the underside of the casing looking down from the now empty cam gear tunnel (photo). Something has defiantly been floating around the engine at some point doing some minor damage.
Next up will be to remove the engine side covers to see if the shim is in the clutch area or the alternator. If it’s not there I can only assume it may have been flushed out during an oil change at some point in its past. I know from speaking with Rick Oliver the checking of valve clearances on the front two cylinders is notoriously difficult unless the two radiators are removed first and even then it’s so tricky to change the shims a lot of these engines never get checked. Maybe they were checked at some point and the shim was not properly placed and was spat out when the engine was started.
I have to say though it is a real jewel of a bike, build quality is immense.
Post by: Bryanj on February 16, 2026, 11:29:12 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 17, 2026, 08:09:43 AM
The piece of metal looks like the top of a dowl, it's very thin like a shaving of something and it's very small, about 8mm in length (before it was bent double!). It's definitely not a piston ring, it's much too thin. Could it be part of a three piece oil ring, but where's the rest of it?
I have my doubts if this engine has ever been opened to any great extent because the valve clearances are well below what they should be with really tight clearances, every valve was well out of spec. The sump gasket was original Honda and had never been off which makes me think the engine has never been out of the frame.
I'll dig deeper and report back.
Post by: Bryanj on February 17, 2026, 09:58:19 AM
Dowels are frequently "rolled" metal so could be, that pic was a bit blurry.
Possibly leave top end alone and just check lower end for any damage, cant help much as never layed hands on one at meads
Post by: magpie114 on February 17, 2026, 10:03:30 AM
Bad news on the engine, as you say it does look like the remains of a dowel, can't think of anything else. Hopefully will become clearer as you dig further.
BTW there is an as new YSS rear shock on eBay if you are looking to replace the original.
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 17, 2026, 03:35:16 PM
I saw that YSS shock Alan but at the time I was going to get the original shock rebuilt but now knowing it's going to cost somewhere between £250-£300 and some parts such as the actual damper rod are irreplaceable I went to bid on the YSS shock only to find it had been sold😕. I won't think about the suspension now until I know what I'm potentially in for with the engine!
Post by: Johnwebley on February 17, 2026, 03:41:48 PM
I'll give it all another go in the next couple of days. Just waiting for the replacement shims to arrive before delving deeper.I fitted mine with a Yss shock from Wemoto, not to expensive
I saw that YSS shock Alan but at the time I was going to get the original shock rebuilt but now knowing it's going to cost somewhere between £250-£300 and some parts such as the actual damper rod are irreplaceable I went to bid on the YSS shock only to find it had been sold. I won't think about the suspension now until I know what I'm potentially in for with the engine!
Mine had previously been fitted with a CBR600RR unit, but the spring was far too soft,
Back end went down far to much
The damper travel is very short on NC30, so needs a stiff spring
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Post by: Laverda Dave on February 17, 2026, 03:59:56 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on February 22, 2026, 01:15:05 PM
It appears I cannot count, or at least be trusted to write things down before I come indoors for dinner!
Long story short, when I was measuring the valve clearances and removing the shims to replace with the correct sizes and writing down the calcs in a notebook I tried swapping one from one valve to another to test the idea. It was the perfect size and in my success a) I was called indoors for dinner and b) I hadn’t written down what I had done. The result of this was the next day I went back out into the garage to continue and counted I only had 15 not 16 shims on the bench forgetting I had used one the evening before! This is why I though one was missing from the motor and I stripped the sump, cams and cam drive out trying to find a shim that wasn’t actually lost.....oh dear ::).
Anyway it gave me a chance to look deep inside the engine and find that sliver of metal in the strainer. But looking right through the motor there was absolutely no sign of any damage to the gears etc. All the dowels are where they should be as well (in the front cylinders anyway). The metal shaving is too thin to be a dowel. I’m going to use my camera in the spark plug holes to check for any cylinder scoring but the motor wasn’t smoking when I ran it up for 40 minutes before the strip down.
I have cleaned the frame using Bilt Hamber alloy wheel cleaner and really pleased with the results. It got a five star review in tests and it really does work.
I have now prepared the front and rear discs ready for painting the carriers, what a boring job spending three hours with masking tape and a scalpel! I'll spray them with VHT when it warms up and cure them in the oven when the O/H goes to work.
It hasn't all been bike restoration I did undertake a domestic chore and cleaned the dishwasher whilst the wife went shopping. I cleaned the dishwasher first using the two stage process reccomended by Bryan. This involves putting a complete wiring loom in there first on a 65c wash. This was followed by using a dishwasher cleaner to do the real work and hey presto an immaculate dishwasher is the result ;)
Post by: Johnny4428 on February 22, 2026, 03:38:12 PM
Post by: magpie114 on February 22, 2026, 04:26:11 PM
I haven’t the courage to use the oven or dishwasher for parts, more than my life’s worth!
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Post by: K2-K6 on February 22, 2026, 05:06:01 PM
Those little camera / scope are great for inspection of bore etc, we used one on my son's car to very good effect. With very good view of cylinder walls etc from side facing lens, all ok and with aluminium bore at 140,000 mls too :) also its a 40 valve in total, although hydraulic tappets fortunately :D that's in my role as Technical consultant and general grease monkey ;D
He used the camera too on his friends car with suspected head gasket failure ..... to find two cylinders leaking around the gasket. Saves so much time by being able to look inside an engine like this.
Post by: andut on February 22, 2026, 05:10:45 PM
Also, excellent news re the missing shim that’s no longer missing.
The money you have now saved on a major engine rebuild and expensive dishwasher cleaning can be invested in a rear shock ;D
Post by: Bryanj on February 22, 2026, 05:51:33 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on March 13, 2026, 05:05:24 PM
I have ordered a new YSS remote rear shock, delivery time though is five weeks as it is with a new set of Samco hoses in the black matt finish (the gloss finish type is available off the shelf).
I collected all the vapour blasted and powder coated parts yesterday including the wheels, sub frame, footrest hangers and all the various brackets.
The fork leg bottoms and the rear swing arm have been vapour blasted and painted Ford silver fox. I know the fork legs should be painted in the grey colour as they are the adjustable type but as I will be painting this bike in the MK1 UK NC30 colour scheme the fork bottoms needed to be silver. The swing arm is ready to accept new bearings; I have fitted all new bearings in the rear hub.
New wheel bearings are now fitted in the front wheel and I repainted the disc centres. New tyres have been fitted front and rear. BT09’s are now unavailable (for the rear) so I have fitted BT31’s after going on various forums to find the best tyres to suit the bike.
The carbs have been fully stripped and cleaned in the ultrasonic bath. The original brasware was in perfect condition (with the correct size jets between front and rear cylinders) and even the float heights were perfect at 6.8mm! New viton o-rings have been fitted. Getting the carbs back together though was another story, an absolute nightmare with so many springs to hold. No wonder the advice on the forums is not to take them apart unless it is really necessary (echoed by the Haynes manual!). Every day is a school day and I learnt someting.
Next up is putting the bearings in the frame and suspension linkage and rebuilding the front forks using heavyweight springs to suit my weight as these bikes were built for an 8 stone Japanese rider and not an English lard-arse!
Post by: Johnwebley on March 13, 2026, 05:15:47 PM
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Post by: taysidedragon on March 13, 2026, 05:33:18 PM
Post by: magpie114 on March 13, 2026, 06:30:36 PM
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Post by: Rozabikes Tim on March 13, 2026, 10:12:00 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on March 13, 2026, 10:48:18 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on April 23, 2026, 11:09:09 AM
A question I thought may have the answer in here, your Zinc Plating supplier/service i can't locate. Could you post again details as I've got to get some items (Son's car) done and would appreciate your recommendation.
Many thanks.
Post by: Laverda Dave on April 23, 2026, 01:08:42 PM
The company is Hayes Metal Finishing.
Address is:
1000A Uxbridge Rd, Hayes UB4 0RL.
It is very, very hard to find as it is at the back of some shops and you have to walk through an alleyway to get to it and it's not signposted.
It is run by Jim and his son Gary. Gary is the person you need to speak with as he does the non industrial type work in his spare time (he does bike parts as a favour to people he knows). His work is absolutely top notch and he has years of experience.
You cannot post parts to him, you have to deliver and collect in person as it is only him and his dad who is in his 70’s that run the place.
I'll send you a PM with his number.
Dave
He doesn't work on Fridays after 11am.
If you go in person take a packet of chocolate biscuits with you🙂
Post by: Laverda Dave on April 23, 2026, 01:12:26 PM
02085731359.
Mention my name, Dave with the 400/4 and now the NC30!
Post by: K2-K6 on April 23, 2026, 02:05:23 PM
It's reasonably small things needing plate, like differential drive flange and other associated suspension components etc. Son is working through his car (24 yrs old) in maintenance, refresh and preservation and owned now for 3 years.
Biscuits, feeding the world of engineering ;D
Post by: JamesH on April 25, 2026, 10:31:29 AM
Post by: Laverda Dave on May 04, 2026, 01:13:36 PM
Firstly thank you all for the kind comments of progress so far.
So on with the action. The bike is now slowly coming together. The frame is back together with the sub frame and swing arm fitted. The hard chrome plated forks arrived back from Philpot’s and the forks have been fitted with Rick Oliver’s uprated springs and rebuilt with new seals. I have had the fork bottoms painted silver as I want the bike to look like a MK1 (even though the forks have the full adjustment of the later models). I have installed the new YSS remote shock but it may have to come back out and turned 180 degrees as the hose is quite long and the remote reservoir sits back to front so some tweaking required there. All the brake callipers have been fitted with new seals and organic pads and the original pistons were all ok with no corrosion, I’ll be fitting new HEL brake lines courtesy of Rick Oliver.
The routing of the wiring loom has been a head scratcher, despite taking about 30 photos of the routing during the strip down it still proved to be challenging. I have been cleaning up all the connectors as I have gone along. I am installing new UK LED lamps all round after modifying the H4 bulb holders (thanks for the advice Rick).
I am now repairing the fairings having bought some ABS sheet to use as filler rod and to fill a hole in the lower left fairing panel. I am using the soldering iron method to open up the cracks on both sides and using the filler rod to fill the resultant gaps and it has come out pretty well after a rub down and light skim with body filler.
The fuel tank is to be frank an internal disaster area despite the tank looking pristine on the outside. The rust inside is thick and flaky. My go to DEOX-C wont shift this so I have sent the tank off to Motorcycle Dent Removal in Pickering who have developed a top secret method to de-rust the tank and then internally nickel plate it without damaging the paint. They give a lifetime guarantee for their work and the product. I’ll report back on how it goes. I did look on eBay etc for another tank but they are all the same, expensive, full of filler, repainted and internally rusty. A new one from CSMNL (not that they have any) is over £1200 with VAT and P&P!
Lastly Diego (Piki) is busy making me up a decal set ready for the respray after I sent him what turned out to be a really poor quality set bought on eBay to copy so he’s now starting from scratch :o
Post by: Johnwebley on May 04, 2026, 03:05:46 PM
Hope your back gets better soon,
Using LED headlights you won't need to fit an additional relay
Keep up the good work
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Post by: magpie114 on May 04, 2026, 05:20:07 PM
Engine has cleaned up very well. What paint did you use for it?
I’m looking for a NC30 tank too. Quite challenging, as you say they all seem to be rusty and/or dented. Annoyingly some good ones come up occasionally on the Japanese auction sites. Good to know about the internal tank plating.
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Post by: Laverda Dave on May 04, 2026, 11:04:02 PM
The hoses are the matt finished Sanco race hoses that Rick stocks.
Post by: Laverda Dave on June 14, 2026, 09:28:21 PM
It’s been a frustrating few weeks not least because the replacement YSS remote reservoir rear shock didn’t fit as it should. The hose between the shock and remote reservoir was too long so I sent it back to Wemoto (the YSS importer) to be modified. I collected it last Friday and fitted it today.
Fitting the shock finally allowed me to remove the table lift from under the engine and to fit the exhaust. I had to call in help for this (the wife) due to the weight of the exhaust and how awkward it was to refit. New gaskets and joint seals were fitted. Luckily I was able to polish out the serious scratches on the heal guard were the bike has obviously been down on its side.
I have fitted LED’s all round for safety. All new cables fitted apart from the clutch cable. The front brake callipers have been overhauled, new pads fitted and HEL brake hoses.
The tank is still with the Motorcycle Dent Removal Company having the serious flaking rust removed. Unfortunately all the exterior paint had to be removed as it appeared one of the seams was allowing water in (and fuel out!). The good news is the seam was fine and the tank has cleaned up really well. It’s going for internal plating next week; I really don’t want a liner. I’ll report back how it goes.
The elephant in the room are the decals. I bought a set from eBay and they were really poor. I sent them to Piki but even he couldn’t make up a set from what I sent him as they were so bad! I have now found someone who makes them but who doesn’t advertise; I have ordered a set and will see how good they are when they arrive.
Next up, fitting the rebuilt carbs and the refurbished radiators.
Post by: Johnny4428 on June 15, 2026, 11:06:12 AM
Post by: JamesH on June 15, 2026, 11:19:37 AM
Post by: magpie114 on June 15, 2026, 08:54:13 PM
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Post by: Laverda Dave on June 15, 2026, 11:17:07 PM
Samco now make the hoses in matt black Alan. I bought them from Rick. I understand the matt black ones are made to order with a 4 week wait (it may be longer). I fitted the radiators today and had to cut the top hose from the thermostat to the top radiator by 8mm as it was too long and kinked. Apart from that minor mod they are very nice hoses, shame to hide them behind the fairing!
It is fair to say Honda packaged everything very well in this bike and I have to think carefully what to fit and when otherwise it could be impossible to fit anything later and out of sequence!
Post by: Sesman on June 17, 2026, 08:56:53 AM
Post by: Laverda Dave on June 17, 2026, 09:53:37 AM
It's the one I restored 2 years ago. I put a thread up on the forum detailing the build despite it not having an ohc😉
Post by: Johnwebley on June 17, 2026, 12:26:00 PM
Love the goldies, and the fact you used the later unit motor
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Post by: taysidedragon on June 18, 2026, 12:50:11 AM
Post by: Laverda Dave on June 18, 2026, 10:23:33 AM
Post by: taysidedragon on June 18, 2026, 04:04:47 PM
It's from a Triumph Trident T160 Gareth.
That makes sense, no need to modify. 👍
Post by: Sesman on June 19, 2026, 12:14:39 PM
Post by: Bryanj on June 19, 2026, 03:19:23 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on June 19, 2026, 06:35:55 PM
Post by: Sesman on June 20, 2026, 07:04:04 PM
Post by: Bryanj on June 20, 2026, 07:37:34 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on September 15, 2026, 09:50:49 PM
The bad points were the YSS shock although advertised for this model did not fit despite the modification. Rick kindly took it back and ordered me a Nitron shock. Nitron have had some issues and I only took delivery of it last Friday. I thought it would be an easy fit but no. The lower shock mount is binding on the linkage pivot when it is torqued up to the factory spec of 45nm. It is binding to the extent where it will not move! If I torque the bolt up to 15nm it's fine but anything more and it binds, badly.
I know the linkage pivot on the NC30 has a needle roller bearing where the drop link fits and also a needle roller on the swingarm link but the shock mount uses a metalastic bush which to my way of thinking is a stupid idea! How is the metalastic bush supposed to allow the shock to move in the mounting?
Does anyone have an experience of this type of set up? Is it normal for the lower shock mount to bind on the metalastic bush and when it is all installed does the metalastic bush move but only under tension?
I checked the length of the link bush and the internal clearance of the shock mounting fork and they are the same except for a couple of thou which would seem about right.
The Haynes manual is as unhelpful as ever!
At least I've got all the paint set back👍
Post by: Bryanj on September 15, 2026, 11:55:32 PM
Post by: magpie114 on September 16, 2026, 08:42:06 AM
Alan
Post by: Skoti on September 16, 2026, 10:31:30 AM
If you think about it the lower mounting on the fours is the sameas the outer is tight in the swing arm whilst the inner is trapped by the lower shock bolt in the fork, it works because the angle of movement is minimal so the rubber does not tear BUT from experience of bigger ones the bolt should only be tightened when the suspension is in its "normal" position i.e. not body jacked up or loaded down
Well said Brian,
that's an error many folk make, I too prefer to have shockers finally tightened when I'm sitting on the bike for the obvious reason you stated above.
Post by: Laverda Dave on September 16, 2026, 10:33:36 PM
I have reassembled the linkage and have only hand tightened the lower shock mount at the moment. All the remaining shock linkages have been torqued up to the 45nm as per the manual. I will tighten the lower shock mount when the bike is off the stand and I’ll get someone to sit on the bike whilst I tighten the bolt. As the bolt and nut are shielded by the suspension link making getting a socket on it impossible I have modified a 17mm and 14mm crow’s foot spanner to make them a sliding fit. I’ll use a torque wrench with these to give the required setting.
I made good progress today and everything is now back on the bike ready for the fitting of all the body panels. I balanced the carbs a couple of weeks ago and everything is now running as it should. I have given up trying to fit the LED indicators, relay and idiot light the right hand side glows when the left indicators are working (but not the other way around)!
Post by: Laverda Dave on September 16, 2026, 10:36:17 PM
Post by: badger_eng on September 16, 2026, 10:58:00 PM
Post by: Bryanj on September 16, 2026, 11:01:22 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on September 16, 2026, 11:03:17 PM
Post by: Bryanj on September 17, 2026, 12:06:41 AM
Bottom line is easiest fix is normal bulbs, how often do you have them flashing anywat!!
Post by: Laverda Dave on September 17, 2026, 08:54:24 AM
Post by: Bryanj on September 17, 2026, 09:15:44 AM
Post by: Johnny4428 on September 17, 2026, 09:40:04 AM
Post by: taysidedragon on September 17, 2026, 08:47:57 PM
Post by: Laverda Dave on September 26, 2026, 09:35:24 PM
It has taken 10 months from start to finish.
Cost, I gave up counting and its not about the cost anyway, its my hobby and I get to restore one of the bikes I always liked but couldn’t dream of buying back in the early 90’s.
Special thanks to Allan (Magpie 114 on the forum) who has been a great help with lots of hard to find information and who always responded straight away to my many requests for help and guidance.
All I need to do now is insure, tax and MOT it.
Post by: badger_eng on September 26, 2026, 09:45:01 PM
Post by: Johnwebley on September 26, 2026, 10:06:53 PM
Looks wonderful
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on September 27, 2026, 07:30:31 AM
What's it like to ride, when you have the MOT etc it will be interesting to hear if it lives up to your expectations?
Post by: Skoti on September 27, 2026, 07:39:09 AM
90's stuff are becoming the new classics.
Over on the car side Sierra Cosworths and late XR3i's are fetching top prices now.
Post by: magpie114 on September 27, 2026, 09:24:45 AM
Alan
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Post by: Bryanj on September 27, 2026, 10:30:56 AM
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on September 27, 2026, 02:17:33 PM
as they say on that dancing show.
Did you ride it before the build, if you haven't now? I rode my mates NC years ago. Real gem in every way.
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Post by: Laverda Dave on September 27, 2026, 06:08:11 PM
As this is the 6th bike I have restored in nine years I've taken a decision not to restore any more for a couple of years at least in order to enjoy the ones I've got and yet hardly ridden because I'm always restoring them! There's also no more room left in the garage, its become too expensive, I need to get the Jota engine rebuilt (something I don't have the special tools or skill set to do) and will have to farm out to a specialist and due to a hopefully impending house move out of London.
Ted & Tim,
I rode a NC30 back in 1992 at my first ever track day. It was a Honda race school held at Cadwell Park. It was the first modern bike I had ever ridden as I had only ever had a 400/4 as a 'big bike'. I was put into the beginner group at the back so as not to get in anyone's way. When I got the first corner I braked as I would do on the 400/4 i.e. a long, long way from the corner! Within another 3 corners I had lost sight of the group not only due to the very early braking but also I didn't wring the engines neck! I was now on my own getting a bit of speed up when someone walked straight out in front of me as I came over the mountain. I don't know who was more shocked, them or me! When I got back round to the start area I was flagged in. It transpired the mountain section hadn't been included as part of the track for the race school and I should have turned right well before but being so far behind the group I didn't see them turn left! You'd think they would have used bollards to indicate the track ahead was closed!
Anyway, once I got over that I went back out and was much quicker and stayed with the group. In other words I can't wait to ride the NC30 knowing what a vastly different 400 it is to the 400/4!
Post by: Johnwebley on September 29, 2026, 07:45:37 AM
No weight on the wrists,
But cruising at that rate is highly illegal!
Handles and braked very well
I am only 5ft 7in,but felt I was to big for it,after about an hour, my knees agreed
Enjoy
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Post by: Johnny4428 on October 01, 2026, 06:29:50 AM