Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: Coppertop1234 on January 25, 2026, 04:20:56 PM
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Hi all just purchased the 400/4 as a last project bike .
The bike has been a previous 87 year old gentlemen's project in 2019
He rebuilt the engine and restored the bike to its present standard.
A good starting point for a mainly cosmetic restoration.
I like bikes to be original or as near as so this will be my aim
Bits that stand out
Forks off a superdream i think - replacements on order
Brakes off a superdream (no pressure switch) - replacements on order
Wheels same again - new tyres though - i have 2 spoked hubs sort this one later with new rims and spokes
Chain Guard - chrome gone painted black - livable for now
Paint work - Spring job back to correct red and decals
Frame painted - livable for now
Wiring all works taped up so maybe new harness
Chrome work on indicators shot so replacements
New chain and spockets - Bonus
Battery dead - new battery
Exhaust none standard - replace to oem replica on order - need downpipes and collits
New seat - Bonus
Clocks work fine just cosmetics
Bike starts runs / stops and goes through gears fine no bad engine noises or immediate issues.
Tidy little project to get another 400 back to the best it could be within reason of course.
Pic of my last 2 bikes i restored CB750 Fi and CB250 Dream which both were wrecks prior.
a few of new project
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Looks nice , do you mind me asking how much you paid for the bike ?
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not at all Ken
I paid the asking price of 2395 (he wouldnt drop in price)
I paid because the engine had been rebuilt and it also had a second rebuilt engine with it along with other bits and bobs
also it looked a half decent resto to continue.
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I think the correct colour should be Candy Antares Red
I don't want to set off a colour argument, but the burgundy red is my preference
Probably because all my 400's and 750's were burgundy
Parts on order to start
Forks and axle retainers
Brake pressure switch
Complete new front brake and fittings
Dearer bits from DS
Full exhaust system with fitments
New front brake lines
Side grab bar
I am glad the wife doesnt use the forum. :) :)
and still some to get of course
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That sounds like a fair price because it looks good in the photos, My bike was originally candy red but I fancy the yellow so it’s been re sprayed.
On my last CB400 I had it sprayed Candy and it did look amazing but as I remember the paint was really expensive but worth it for the finished product.
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i usually do my own with rattle cans and it always comes out really well - not to put spec on it
Last time on the 750F1 i used BMW candy red which was so close you couldnt tell the difference
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Bits are starting to land :) :)
New Caliper & pressure switch for brake line landed
DS stuff dispatched that was quick
Forks arriving later today
So time to start tinkering
all the old forks calipers exhaust etc will be going on ebay unless anyone here is interested
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Well that didnt go to plan
Old forks are 31mm were on bike
New Forks 33mm (bottoms fine legs pitted)
Yolk 31mm so presume this is also of a superdream - but obviously dont fit
New forks are identified for a 400/4 from seller and manual says 33mm so guess these are right bottoms for bike
old forks legs are also longer than new ones
I only wanted to change fork bottoms but - plan B
Use new fork bottoms 33mm - got these
get 2 new fork legs 33mm - available on ebay
get new top and bottom yolk 33mm and bearings to suit - (hahahaha cant seem to find these)
or open to other models/ options that would take standard stock fittings brakes mudguard etc
even though of a frame with decent front end on it as an option
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Just checked on cms and lower G5 yoke is same but top is different
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Just found a bottom and top yoke they say for 400/4 f 1977
we will see when they land.
Time to strip top end down clean and refurb ready to rebuild all being well.
ordered new head bearings in anticipation of correct fit.
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Few more bits landed
Exhaust looks nice enough for a replica
(glad he came when missus was out )
I will post pics as we progress - hopefully.
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Where did you get the exhaust from looks quite nice, is it single wall thickness on the down pipes, I have heard that some of the replicas because of the reduced wall thickness they can discolour when heated up .
This is not a bad thing infect I like the look of the different colour bands , reminds me of when I started my apprenticeship where we heat treated chisels and punches a few years ago now .
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Yup not like a good bit of tempering Ken remember it well from my training days in the early 70's and the forge in metal work classes. Schools would have a dicky fit it they had woodwork and metalwork as classes nowadays.
Exhaust is a DS replica, I dont know about thickness just packed it away until i am ready
just hope the new yolks are right size for forks. the super dream forks i took out were about 2 inch longer than these I have just bought, but the said they were for a 400/4.
its all trial and error ,hopefully not too much error though.
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Front end stripped out ready
Bikes in background are my sons
Chinese 80cc monkey bike
Harley 1250
(i think he gets more fun on the monkey bike )
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Having sold both and pdi'd the first 1340 in Gloucestershire i can guarantee he has more fun on the monkey bike, and i bet its more reliable
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Would someone confirm for me the front forks are 33mm ? or have i lost the plot already
On the bike were 31mm presumably off a superdream
I ordered from ebay forks, top and bottom yolk all supposed to be for 1977 400/4
top yolk came 31mm - forks from same place 33mm ??
I just sent them back if they cant sell matching kit what's the quality like.
still waiting for bottom yolk hopefully 33mm and what i need if i am correct.
now looking for top yolk and forks again.
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Look at cmsnl parts list , size is usually quoted
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just found complete front end only 1 slight problem
they are in italy - hope they are not left hand drive
delivery in 2 to 4 weeks no rush plenty to do to keep me occupied.
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Would someone confirm for me the front forks are 33mm ? or have i lost the plot already
On the bike were 31mm presumably off a superdream
I ordered from ebay forks, top and bottom yolk all supposed to be for 1977 400/4
top yolk came 31mm - forks from same place 33mm ??
I just sent them back if they cant sell matching kit what's the quality like.
still waiting for bottom yolk hopefully 33mm and what i need if i am correct.
now looking for top yolk and forks again.
400Four are definitely 33mm.
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cheers for that i thought they were 33 mm,but nice to have it confirmed
:)
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I think your Superdream confusion is 250 were 31 and single disc whilst 400 was 33 and twin disc
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Thought so
just having a debate with a no return on ebay who sent me a 31mm yolk, he said it is of a 400/4 and wants me to explain why they dont fit.
I sent him info on people used the superdream forks on 400's as a replacement and obviously the one he is stripping had had this conversion to 31mm which are not correct spec for bike which i required.
Waiting for further response on return,but buyer protection should cover it as the are not as described.
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You couldnt write it
just speaking to a motorcycle shop friend and he is just breaking a 400/4 with a complete front end on it.
aw well you have to grasp the best option at the time , which was italy parts option for me.
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Front forks landed and they are just as they should be no pitting well pleased.
stripped and cleaned then fitted them ,then new brake line and pressure switch Stage 1 done for now
Fitted DS replica exhaust No major issues
Removed all the old pvc tape off the harness and replaced with heatproof / waterproof fabric tape - looks a lot tidier
Rewired and yes she fired up exhaust sounds nice, but carbs are well out - job for a bit later.
just tried an old 400 wheel in forks and the axle that was on bike with comstars is too big and speed drive is not compatible either, no surprise there
glad i tried them before i started stripping old wheel back to hub.
A good days progress today, well pleased with results
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Just mounted horn and tacho guide only to find horn then didnt work .
after investigation it would seem a previous owner had cut the wires in the switchgear and taped them back together.
Not a great job of doing connections horn switch was araldited in place so in short switch gear needed replacing to do the job right.
The switch gear didnt seem to fit quite right either with a visible gap all way round the joint, so is probably also of a different model.
Cleaned and tidied rear light mount while playing.
Its all part of the fun finding whats right and whats not.
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New switch gears arrived and fitted
The quality of the DS replica seems decent and looks as good as originals
Slight disappointment the wiring is not matching to original - ok for me with the matching colour guide provided, but may be a problem for someone else at a future stage down the line.
I will make note on DS invoice of colour matching wires to keep in file.
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the thing that bugs me is costs the same to use the proper colours, so why use any others?
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Hi would some one be able to post me a few pics of horn mount from both sides.
Better to ask than bodge about trying this and that.
I made the previous mounts which fit and have the horn facing forwards under tank.
I have now got an original horn and fittings, but unsure if i have them all and how they go?
Got horn working and cleaned up, but do i have everything
pics of what i have.
I think
Short wire clip if rh side as a cable retainer for throttle cables?
Angled bracket is Left hand side and has a rubber cable retainer like battery box one fitted from frame to bracket?
Horn mounts on rh side flat to frame with fixed bracket 2 holes at top - no pic?
Where does taco retaining wire fit ?
cheers
keith
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I think the forward facing horn was a requirement in some European countries. Netherlands being one.
The horn bracket goes on the right hand side, and on mine the cable tidy wire piece goes on the front mounting bolt.
The bracket for the rubber strap on the left, there should be a bit on the frame for the other end of the strap .
Don't bother until your done with plugs and tappets. It just gets in the way.
Regards
Dave.
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The dealer setup manual will show you the cable routes. It's in Ash's Dropbox.
The tacho cable just dangles, clutch and throttle go through the clip.
Regards
Dave
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Found the set up manual and diagrams thank you Dave
Helpful document cheers Ash.
Cables now routed as should be and all ok.
Horn located correctly and working fine
on to next job carbs clean and refurb
(well my son will do it really beyond my eyesight these days)
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Nurse Julie for O ring kits and clean all the original internals, ultrasonic more or less esential
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Ultra sonic and cleaning agent ordered
carbs off ready to strip Pic 1
Most of black engine paint removed. (why would you paint it black)
Spare carbs from a recently acquired donor bike. Pic 2 :) :)
So we presently have 3 rebuilds on the go
Mine and my sons other 2
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Carbs stripped and rebuilt by my son Keith Jnr.
(I do the pointing, He does the seeing and skinning knuckles. Glad he also likes motorbikes)
First time he has done carbs though - Utrasonic leaned and new jets etc
Well pleased with results -back on bike all working fine
Also fitted new electronic ignition from DS straight enough replacement for points
Working on wheels \now new rim ,spokes and bearings just need new retainers and removal tools for retainers
front retainer has been chaveld so got it out with a bit of old school hammer and chisel
New bearings fitted once i have retainer i can start to relace rim.
Bike is coming together bit at a time
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I had a set of Keyster repair kits as per your photo, they came with my bike, they were purchased some 10-15 years ago by the PO.
The bike runs great on them despite many reporting that the original brass wear is better cleaned & kept.
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Wheel rebuilt with new rim spokes and bearings sent to local shop for trueing, tube and tyre.
After about 14 incorrect attempts to get lacing pattern right ,on 15th attempt it all just fell into place. I Hope!!
Thought of trueing it myself, but to be honest eye sights not best so let shop do it .
Front Mudguard sent for rechroming ,so only front brake to fit and front end is finally sorted.
Not doing brake till last off as i don't want it to start to seize just for the sake of fitting it to early.
Next job
New indicators to fit a bit of bling as old ones are original but very pitted.
Then onto back wheel to do same refurb again.
loving messing about again nothing too drastic just tinkering and sorting out whats not right.
Cant wait for better weather to start on paintwork and make it look like a 400 should. :)
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Finally removed last of black paint from engine block.
Repainted with heat resistant paint to tidy up and look more like it should.
Just got to remove studs and clean paint off them- one at a time
little bit of polishing to alloy covers to make them stand out a bit.
Fitted rear indicators, just got to tidy wires a bit and replace old cable clip
sorry for messy workspace spaners and crap all over at moment ,think i need to tidy up.
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Well done Keith, its getting there.
When is the maiden voyge planned?
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Hoping to do the Distinguish Gentleman's Ride in May with both my sons.
But may get on road end of April ;D
Yes I think its getting there and starting to look like it should.
its such fun only a biker could understand (and a considerate wife of course )
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Rear Hub stripped and bearings out ready for wheel re build.
waiting for front to return this week trued with new tyre and tube fitted.
Son popped over today to balance carbs. it was a pain No 3 just wouldn't move.
checked valves all ok, had carbs off bench set them, checked all intake rubbers, rebuilt
last thing checked vacuum pipes and yes you guessed it blockage on No 3.
well could have been worse and passed the morning on nice.
Engine sound nice with the ds replica exhaust, and ticks over with no fluctuation, bit of echoing from garage, but don't think i will have any issues with the previous owners rebuild.
Son took spare engine to his to make a start on refit into his bike. it was rebuilt i n 2019 and never fitted so first thing is it free or siezed as it was dry stored. Plenty of penetrating into bores before we try to turn it over i think.
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Just found some decals i had one is for exhaust muffler
Where was this placed on the bike? Swinging Arm?
Advice appreciated
ta
Keith
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Swing arm by sjlencer and readable
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Cheers thought it would melt on muffler ;D
still waiting for wheels to return hopefully this week
Paint and tank decals on order.
Bike No 2 now up and running also
We spent the weekend on it got engine in wired up and all fired up ok so we may have 2 more 400s back on the road soon.
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Tank and panels sprayed and decals fitted ready to laquer after we put preserve nature sticker on
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Tank before
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Total cost of around £120.00
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Preserve nature fitted
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Is it me or does both the hinge and catch brackets look twisted?
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Think its the angle of the dangle on how I took pic
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Paint work complete just a bit of cutting back to do.
Only waiting for rechromed front mudguard and we're off on a road test
Keith jnr is starting on 750 fi and his Ruby red f0 while weather is good
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Nice!
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Thank you not looking too far off a decent job for novices
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Some very good work, and results there.
It surprises me the different overall appearance of 400 Four whether wearing the original "flat" colour in early models in comparison to the later metallic like this.
Seems to impart a different outlook/market just from that small shift on essentially the same bike.
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Keith, it's probably just a trial fit, but if not, the side panel is not fully located and pushed in at the bottom fixing. You don't want to lose those freshly painted panels!
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Cheers Gareth
Yes your right trial fit waiting for paint to harden fully before i put the rubber bungs in
Bought some replacements and they are solid, even in hot water so not for fitting today
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Ruby Red Tank painted up so we are getting there
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Nearly there will be fully sorted this week
Few gremlins to sort odd earth wire rubber on centre stand front brake to bleed.
Insured and test drove today,runs nice
Last 400/4 i was 20 and weighed in at 11.2
Present 400/4 I am 69 and weighing in at 17.5 and that's with added hair loss
Surprising what nearly 50 years does ,but still fun and what a nippy bike.
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Nice looking 400 you have there.
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Cheers its as close as I could make it to what mine was new in 78.
Not perfect but nice enough for me.
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Slight problem, just sorted front brake all fine now starts on the button runs smooth.
turn indicators on you here engine blip just for a moment.
turn side lights same thing
turn headlight and bike cuts out
increase revs and no cut out but on tick over its not happy.
just test rode it and when indicators are on engine stalls at each flash then picks in again
so engine is on off on off with indicators
first thought is battery power - test ride sorted that not battery
its new and always on trickle.
not a loose wire or it all wouldn't work
bike is charging ok you can see headlight get brighter with revs.
possible poor connection on rectifier/regulator? cleaned and seems fine
has anyone had similar before i start going too deep?
i would think it a wiring issue thats earthing the ignition when indicators or lights are selected
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Check all earth connections.
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Checked wires and cleaned all joints and earths - all disconnected and cleaned replaced back in order
Headlight now not an issue can turn lights on and off with engine running ok
Fusebox was a pain with fuses just collapsing, they were getting on a bit and silver ends were falling off when i touched them
(seem ok at moment will get a pack of new fuses to make sure)
Flasher unit was an led flasher unit ,took it off and it just packed in so i have ordered a new one
end of play for today till new units come tomorrow.
At the moment I am thinking the problem was related to the flasher unit, rather than wiring, but we will see tomorrow
Hope it was
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Correct glass fuses have been getting hardercand harder to find in correct size, if you go to US site and look up Hondaman he mahes and sells a replacement that takes the blade type fuses
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well one step forward 3 back
flasher unit fitted indicators all flashing as they should.
not started bike yet.
idiot console went blank no power
tank off checked harness connections all look fine
Headlight out all connections look fine no wires out or loose
checked fuses all ok
checked connections all ok
still no power to ignition
tried fuse between fuses yup powers up ignition and cranks over
not tried to start it at this point but think she would fire up
checked fuse box out all wires good and connections ok
next thing i can think of is ignition connections, but these power with fuse bypass ok so probably not
stumped at moment maybe its the diode at side of fuses? Rectifier?
Any comments appreciated
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Not sure what you mean by fuse between fuses, the diode is only for thestarter interlock(neutral light on OR clutch lever pulled in)
It is not unusual for the block connector to come loose on ignition switch and/or the contacts in the switch part to fail
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If you place a fuse inbetween the space where a fuse should not go it powers ignition as if a key is in bike
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Then something is wired wrong as only 3 fuses do anything
1 main
2 tail and instruments
3 head
The other 2 are spares
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It’s the old dodge/thieves trick to start a bike with that sort of fuse box Bryan. You fit a fuse between the main fuse and the next fuse inline. That acts as a direct short to power both circuits. However it should only work if the headlight switch is also moved to the on position. For some reason Honda powered the lighting circuit so it stayed on all the time. Most likely to run parking lights. It didn’t take long for the thieves to spot the fault. Everything lights up and the engine will start. Honda even provided the spare fuse to jump it with.
It was the main reason when I fitted my 500 with a 550f harness that I kept the old ignition switch under the tank. I still used the 550 switch between the clocks but until the 500 switch is in park, so I can remove the key, the rest of the systems stay completely dead. I wired it so the main feed wire to the fuse box runs through the 500 ignition switch and then back to the fuse box.
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Never heard of that one Ken, perhaps i worked in a less theivefull area, from that info suggests the ignition switch contacts are bad so try unplugging the switch connector block and jumping red to black, if it all lights up then the contacts are duff so new switch or Emgo contact unit but i would fit a relay
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I’d agree with Bryan, most likely a poor contact set in the switch. They can be disassembled though and cleaned up, done it a few times, just be careful you don’t snap the retaining lugs.
As Bryan also suggests jump the red and black wires together first. If it all lights up it’s the switch if not it’s something else.
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Well later today when I land home we should see which parts iffy. Son has brought me all electrical parts to try 1 at a time from a bike we have not started on yet.
Unless I am unlucky and it has similar issues.
I will update as we progress further
Thanks for imput always helpful to have differing opinions and possible sources to investigate.
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Stage 1 replaced easy swaps
Fuse box
rectifier
Dioder + Regulator
Flasher unit
No difference all original parts replaced and on to the ignition for stage 2
Looks like I found culprit loose wire on coupling block for ignition.
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First proper test ride out to local car spares about a mile away for some fuses
Told wife I would be back in 5 or an hour all depends.
Little bike rode very nice and didn't fault on anything.
So hopefully problems solved.
Got some spare 15 amps but no 7s so I will order some on line to sort it.
may go to Chesterfield on Sunday to a classic meet and give her a bit more of a run.
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Same fault returned when Indicating engine falters and stamers to flash speed.
Checked wiring and nothing visible found a few badly taped up wiring joints i was not happy with,so I can only presume its a earth leak somewhere in the bindings of the harness.
Previous owner wiring repairs were twist and tape not a permanent fix so could be anywhere,
New harness on its way so.hopefully that will sort it.
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New harness fitted all working as it should
Polish tinker and take for a spin.
Son took it home tonight to give it a run on motorway
All rode fine slight issue on back lanes,
a pheasant decided it also liked the bike at 60 mph.
Feathers all over broken sparkplug and suppressor
But alls alright pheasant still flew off and bits to now sort out.
I was hoping it would have taken longer but jan to may passed 5 on
Went out on sons 750f1 while we were test riding and I am tempted,but as I said this is my last 1 I will just supervise and polish the 400
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Decided to play with fuse box today and make a blade fuse replacement.
Pic of finished blade fitted to bike and working all ok
Cheap enough to buy at 6.00 plus a couple of quid for spades
all wires soldered on blade fittings,i think with a bit of messing i could make the blade fusebox fit inside the old fusebox housing.
thats going to be version 2 i think
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Link to bike finished on you tube
Only a short clip of her running steady at 1200 tickover
https://youtu.be/tCL0FjgBY5c?is=cVGDBP_qB1-c4qzx
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Very worthwhile mod to do. Have fitted spade fuse box on 750 need to do the 550 next. Countless main fuses blown due to crap springy contact thingys!
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Well mines all sorted so now we can start on sons.
He had a bottom end oil leak where someone had overtightened a wrong size bolt and tried to fix with epoxy.
we have a full spare engine untested with all new insides but stripped head and rocker bolts
A full engine with oil leak at bottom but runs fine
Another engine stripped
So today engine with oil.leak out of frame and head off
Untested engine stripped and head and barrels off
Rings new barrels all fine refitted to bottom.end
Good head refitted and rebuilt
Electronic ignition transfered and timing checked over ready to refit
2 rocker bolts were sheared redrilled and tapped out
Engine ready to refit tomorrow
Unfortunately its over to son as I am away for a couple of weeks but sure I will get a message its up and running all been well by mid week. Or maybe tomorrow
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Lower front engine mounting bolt by any chance? Usually when case guards removed and long bolt put back
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Yup you got it in 1
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Just as I thought up and running not bad for a 24hr rebuild
From memory running in was 600 miles below 6k revs?
https://youtube.com/watch?v=vT9ElP2CqKc&is=5WqoHUDKKq6WzQEr
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Just when you think your done.
Spilt petrol on tank
Petrol resistant lacquer not very good
So flat back and repaint with 2 pack lacquer
All sorted awaiting it to really harden off before refit
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Once my tanks sorted and a few bits are done
I will post a walk round of project completed..
It has been interesting playing with it and 70s bike again and we have a couple more to complete at sons a 750F1 and another 2 400/4 s.
This rebuild had a complete engine refurbishment in 2019 and never rode.
clutch was poor so this was replaced
Numerous incorrect parts and poor electrics to start off with
so most of electrics were replaced including harness
If it was not correct to the bike or in poor condition I replaced it
Complete front end and brakes wheels axels bearings etc, etc
I did make a few mods, not period ,but beneficial in my opinion.
Electric ignition
Bladed fuse box
All in one reg /rec
Loads of pattern parts like exhaust and clocks, but you dont get many of these in really good condition
The only parts I didn't change really were frame and swinging arm ,handlebars, rear light mount, mudguard and seat.
I did manage to source a original toolbox but pattern lid along with an original owners handbook
The next ones will not be in as much detail as mine but will still be good bikes when done.
As we are aware resto's are not cheap they are for enthusiasts to play in the garage and reminisce on days gone past.
This resto including the £2,300 purchase was £5,273 in total but I think it looks and rides like the one I bought in new from DC Cooks two wheel centre in Goldthorpe south Yorkshire in 1978 replaced by a 750 F1 later that year.
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I will add video in a few days away at moment, but I think this should now survive another 50 years
Keep up the good work and enjoy.
Purchase cost from ebay £2,300.00
25/01/2026 Front brake caliper £127.00
25/01/2026 Brake hose joint switch £25.00
27/01/2026 Exhaust gaskets £7.80
27/01/2026 caliper bolt,battery strap,Brake hose,
3 way joint,Brake pipe,Collars,,Complete Exhaust system,Bracket,side grip £857.15
28/01/2026 Front and rear wheel bearings £30.00
28/01.2026 Head bearings £20.00
29/01/2026 Disc Spat £4.99
30/01/2026 Front Forks £184.00
06/02/2026 Clutch lever switch £5.75
06/02/2026 Clamp,Brake hose Bolt,Tail light,Front
wheel rim & Spokes,rim Tape £170.75
09/02/2026 Clutch switch,Left and Right Switch gears £119.12
12/02/2026 Electronic Ignition £164.00
14/02/2026 Mirrors (DS Pattern ) £30.00
16/04/2026 Carb Kit £55.00
18/02/2026 Indicators (DS Pattern) £45.00
16/03/2026 Rear wheel Rim & Spokes key blank. Points cover £205.22
26/03/2026 Rear footpeg bolts £10.78
18/04/2026 Battery,Tank and Panels repaint & decals £250.00
18/04/2026 Recrome Mudguard £100.00
19/04/2026 owners handbook £45.00
23/05/2026 New wiring harness £103.00
23/05/2026 New Coil packs £40.00
25/07/2026 New tacho(DS Repo) £106.00
25/07/2026 New Speedo (DS Replica) All new engine parts rebuild - restart milage at 0.00 £114.00
25/07/2026 New Clutch and Springs £61.00
25/07/2026 Regulator & Rectifier in 1 upgrade £19.00
25/07/2026 Blade fuse box upgrade £6.00
06/07/2026 Generator cover £68.00
Refurbishment expenditure after purchase costs £2,973.56 plus what i have forgot about of course.
Total Spend identified £5,273.56 about right price for a nice bike i would say ?
Pic below was start project bike
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Really nice work👍.
Yep, that's the going rate I think for the work you have done. Luckily there was no major engine work and a need for new pistons, rings, rebore, rocket arms etc because they really do push the price up and once you get into splitting the engine you end up vapor blasting and repainting the cases etc, etc.
Just enough left of summer to get it run in👍
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Not bad, I have similar money in my 350F....... it's for the love of the game, I tell ya!
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It is it keeps us out of the missus hair for a bit unless she notices a lot of deliveries.
Fortunate for me engine in bike had been rebuilt with new internals and spare engine that came was the same which is now in sons bike..
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Just looking at bike tonight and noticed on the side stand end it looks like it was designed to take a rubber like the gear change or am i just looking for something thats not there ?
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The US models had a lump of rubber bolted onto the side stand that was designed to flick it up if you forgot.
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[attachimg=1]
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Yup seen them the flat type
I was looking at the shape with the small shere at the end and just thought did they have a rubber pushed on there?
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No, never had a rubber fitted there.
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Cheers Julie thought i was wrong,but not sure
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Last few pics of finished bike.
Insured for 133.00 Adrian Flux - Bike Sure
Classic valuation to be agreed at 6k
Rides , runs and sounds like it should - just like the one i bought in 1978.
(Maybe some engine bars if i can find some would be another mod)
Other than that it play away for the rides out with sons on a Sunday while we continue restoring Keith Jnrs 2 x 400s and 750F1
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Excellent job. Well done 👍
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Great job Keith.
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Well done that man! Excellent.
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Nice job, looks great.
Not fault finding, is there a screw missing on the clutch actuator cover?
It might be the photo, lower screw.
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Cheers ted just checked because we have just done clutch and they are Allen studs so I can see photo showing holes
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first ride out 80 miles all ok But
always a But
Head Lights not working
got home expecting a wire out in headlamp , but nope
tank off checked harness all ok
checked switch yup defective
slider did not move with switch so no contact made
Part is from DS a pattern part as they didnt have uk R/H originals
I have emailed them hopefully they will send a replacement - we will see
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DS are sending out a replacement no fuss or bother.
Well that will pass a bit of time on so may aswell put some rechromed bars on while I am messing again.
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Great job Keith, congratulations on keeping another one on the road.
My second 400/4 in 1982 was that same colour.
You need a set of engine bars on there for that finishing touch..........
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One of my side reflectors started spinning on the thread so made a temporary repair with a stud till new ones came
I saw a set of Suzuki reflectors which had chrome(Plastic) rims and thought they could look nice.
the thread size was wrong so popped reflector out and replaced with correct size stud.
I know they are not Honda, but I think they look a nice bit of trim without really being noticeable
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The ones on my Superdream are marked STANLEY so presumably original.
As I don't have the original Fork Ears on my 500 I don't have any, neither has my 400 as it's fitted with a 500 headlamp.
I have mounting points on my fork mounted headlamp brackets where I could attach them.
Are side reflectors mandatory, is it an Mot fail without them ?
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Don't think they are an mot item Ted
Just a finishing touch and added safety of course
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I've just fitted a pair on my 500, they look ok.
They came with a big box of spares when I bought the SD, not original brand.
Not sure if it's fading, I do Iike your Suzuki ones aside from the trim they look more orange.
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Also have them on bertrums bikes 15.00 a pair and say for Honda so maybe they have right size thread.?
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Generic ones ay £3.61 each
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306856458634