Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Dolomite_ on March 01, 2026, 04:35:40 PM
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After re-tightening some gear selector bolts, applying a bit of loctite and an oil service I've been trying to set the clutch, but it's not going my way.
I've followed the steps in the haynes manual but it doesn't feel right. The bite point is slightly different in 1st compared to the other gears. In 1st it's closer to the bars and 2nd-6th its further out.
The bike also seems to rock back and forward when the clutch is held in, there is also resistance when the clutch is held in and I roll the bike backwards. I think this is because the clutch disks are fully separated or area little sticky, it's not been ridden in 4 months but this was also happening before I was investigating the shifting issue.
I've tried setting the screw at the specified 1/4 turn back after feeling resistance and also setting it when I feel the resistance, neither seem to make a difference. In both positions I've also used the adjusters at the clutch lever and at the top of the casing but neither seem to alleviate the rocking.
The more modern bikes (2000s) I've had didnt were easy to set the clutch on.
Is this the expected behaviour? Could anyone give me a dummies guide to setting the clutch? :D
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Is your bike a 400?
If so is the mechanism in the housing with the three ball bearings on in good condition?
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Is your bike a 400?
If so is the mechanism in the housing with the three ball bearings on in good condition?
I doesn't look worn. It has the slight groves that help the balls roll out. I assume they're normal?
What are the usual signs of wear?
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Lots of flats on the balls and horrible operation
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Mine were as Bryan described, rusty with flat spots, at the time replacement ball bearings were not available,
they are now.
Other considerations are cable routing, is the guide bracket bolted to the cam cover with the center O sleeve present and bolted in the correct position?
The clutch cables start sticking/binding. Due to the exposure to heat they might look good externally, that does not mean they are good internally.
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The clutch cable has less than less than 1000 miles on it.
When I rebuilt the engine the balls were fine, they felt smooth and had no corrosion. Next time im in there Ill have a think about replacing them. Is there a part number or size for the ball bearings?
Whats the correct routing for the clutch cable?
There are some mentions of pictures on here but the image links are dead.
How did you set your click bite point?
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The clutch cable has less than less than 1000 miles on it.
When I rebuilt the engine the balls were fine, they felt smooth and had no corrosion. Next time im in there Ill have a think about replacing them. Is there a part number or size for the ball bearings?
Whats the correct routing for the clutch cable?
There are some mentions of pictures on here but the image links are dead.
How did you set your click bite point?
I've just bought a new pattern clutch operating mechanism from DSS for not a lot of money because I had wear issues with both original mechanisms I had.
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The clutch cable routing is here, also worth also looking at the push mile photos in Ashs drop box for the 400, links attached if they work.
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/01py4kzna3zr5ytsgai8x/CB400_set-up_man.pdf?rlkey=6i9xdpsfppruq9hv9v8rxmufy&e=1&dl=0
www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/97pm41rmojmibgw6skkvy/ACXWZLnqMn-MFflx_Dz5ck8?dl=0&e=1&preview=rec11050-1_15.jpg&rlkey=eif3urr015dchwa5juutdz7sv