Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Mikep328 on April 25, 2026, 06:41:03 AM
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Yesterday I "woke up" my 400F from its winter storage and found that the brake light would not illuminate when the front brake was applied. It did illuminate with the rear brake pedal. When I put the bike in storage, the front brake illuminated the light correctly. So it "failed" by sitting for 4 months. :(
Ironically, I had installed a new switch when I was overhauling the front brake system almost two years ago even though the original switch was working fine but I figured that a new switch was a good idea; it wasn't. Wish I had kept the OEM switch that was working OK but I tossed it in the trash can. :-\
In doing some research, it appears that these pattern switches are not particularly reliable but it is all that DSS carries. Are "Honda" brake switches available anywhere or do I just buy another pattern switch from DSS?
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Oxide?
If, yes contact spray will help if possible to reach where needed.
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Thanks! I should have mentioned that I pulled the connectors from the switch, connected them together and the light illuminated. The switch contacts and the connecters were cleaned. A multimeter connected to the switch contacts showed "open" even with the brake lever pulled.
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That’s a pain Mike, CMS has genuine ones but not cheap nearly £60! Nurse Julie?
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Thanks, Johnny! £60 seems a bit much BUT I'd rather have a reliable switch that I don't have to replace every 2 years!! :)
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None in stock :(
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There are loads of generic ones around, just choose the right thread and make up a small adapter to come off the spade terminals and plug into your existing wiring.
Just search for hydraulic brake switch
Regards
Dave
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Thanks. Yes, I know the generic is easily found. DSS as well as other suppliers have them but I'm looking for the HONDA part, not a pattern part.
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They’ll be a lot available second hand on eBay
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Just an idea you have nothing to loose, my bike has been in storage for 12 years and the brake pressure switch didn’t work so I used the blunt end of a drill bit an pushed it through the hole where the switch connects to the brake manifold and it moved slightly and it freed the switch and has worked ever since.
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Ill say same as in brakeswitch post, Honda bought a supplier part that fitted and worked, and worked for many years before it was stood doing nothing and gummed up with secret additive found in all oils(sh*t)
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Just an idea you have nothing to loose, my bike has been in storage for 12 years and the brake pressure switch didn’t work so I used the blunt end of a drill bit an pushed it through the hole where the switch connects to the brake manifold and it moved slightly and it freed the switch and has worked ever since.
Thanks - might try that. Costs nothing other than having to rebleed the brake after removing/reinstalling. Of course, if it doesn't work then get to do it all again with a new switch! ::)
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I use a bleed tube to make it easy.
The type that have thick rubber wall, stopper in the end and slit cut just up from stopper to give very effective one way valve. You can buy them but easy enough to make, then with a longer tube so that it reaches the traditional British jam jar down on the floor.
Normal method, buy jam, make toast, eat jam on toast (scones or other jam foundation materials available) use empty jar to catch fluid ;D
Joking aside, the tube makes virtually one shot bleed exceptionally easy with any system. I use on cars too, with split/anti-lock systems etc, they work completely solo with pushing pressure through and nil return to let you close off bleed nipple conveniently after air is expelled.
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Thanks, good idea re split tube!! I ended up buying a pattern switch from DSS and plan to remove the old/install new/bleed brakes tomorrow. Don't have an empty jam jar but I'll make do with one of my several empty Hendricks gin bottles!! ;)
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You could go second hand with https://www.400fourbits.co.uk/#electrical as to whether they are OE I think you'd have to message Steve there.
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If you still have not removed the switch, maybe try applying plenty of pressure through the brake lever then give a sharp tap to one of the hexagon flats with a small jhammer or a screwdriver handle. This used to work sometimes on compressed air lines if a valve played silly buggers.
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Thanks, I should have tried that but replaced the switch before reading that thread. Works fine now - hope the switch lasts longer than two years!!!