Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: bbrian66 on May 17, 2026, 05:29:27 PM
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Hi Guys
I've had my wheels professionally rebuilt and got them to put the wheel bearings in at the same time. I'm now concerned that the rear installation is not correct. Tightening down the bearing retainer firmly leaves a huge gap under the flange. With the sprocket carrier installed it still leave a good 1mm gap under the flange so that the carrier can float.
I can only think that the bearings are not properly seated, that the left hand bearing should be sitting deeper into the hub, allowing the retainer to screw down further.
Am I wrong? Do I have any option other than to try to knock out the bearings and start again?
If I have to knock them out, can they be reused?
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I had a similar issue when I fitted my rear wheel bearings after having my wheels rebuilt by CWC.
Not sure if the 550 is different to the 500, I'll check my build log & come back to you how I fixed it.
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In my case when I fitted the rear wheel the bearings were binding as soon as I started to tighten the axle bolt.
My first thought was the center spacer was out of place. (It wasn't) I undid the left hand lock ring, using a drift tool I hammered the right side dearing so it was flush, all went back together okay when fitting the drive hub arrangement. My biggest error was trying to fit the oil seal in the wrong place.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53699893614_82382f13ed_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pPgZuJ)PXL_20240505_084731863 (https://flic.kr/p/2pPgZuJ) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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I would try removing the lock ring then with a decent sized lump hammer and a drift tool knock the bearing in a bit further.
You will need to support the hub with suitable support to avoid damage.
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Thanks Ted! If this is all correct then I need to knock the bearing under the retainer inward a bit more, but can't because it needs the other bearing and the spacer to move at the same time.
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Sounds like the bearing is not seated against the shoulder in the hub, side with locking ring fits first up to shoulder as there is no shoulder on the other side, bearing is positioned by internal spacer
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Thanks Ted! If this is all correct then I need to knock the bearing under the retainer inward a bit more, but can't because it needs the other bearing and the spacer to move at the same time.
The right side bearing will be moved by the spacer as you press the left side bearing fully home, as a precaution against the spacer tube distorting I would insert a bolt or similar of the same diameter of the axle bolt to keep it all aligned.
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Thanks Ted! If this is all correct then I need to knock the bearing under the retainer inward a bit more, but can't because it needs the other bearing and the spacer to move at the same time.
Yes, that's correct in your assessment of the brake side bearing would have to move as it's location is dependent on the spacer keeping distance to sprocket side bearing.
The sprocket/drive side bearing is tbe reference/datum on these rear wheel. It, when located against the shoulder/rebate in the hub, will set the wheel alignment in the frame, ultimately to make it bolt in centrally located.
The brake side bearing is "slaved" off that position by the spacer distance as it has no effective rebate. It "floats" in other words, with any assembly discrepancy taken out when the spindle nut is torqued to spec on installation.
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Thank you all for these replies - very helpful. It does look like this is my issue.
I'll have a go at tapping them in deeper. I might try to warm the hub to make it easier.
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Personally I don't see the need to warm the hub, the bearings are now aligned in the hub,
Too much heat could damage the bearing seals and make the grease run out.
Relative mild heating unlikely to help, be brave give it a tap with a lump hammer, a decent drift and striking it nice and square on the drift should do it easily.
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Ted - the other point that concerns me is whether the central spacer ends up being permanently squeezed between the two bearings and then exerts a permanent sideways load on both bearings. Is that an issue, or can I ignore it?
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Ted - the other point that concerns me is whether the central spacer ends up being permanently squeezed between the two bearings and then exerts a permanent sideways load on both bearings. Is that an issue, or can I ignore it?
In an ideal world the left side bearing should have been fully against the shoulder, fit lock ring, then right side bearing.
Have you looked down the inside of the inner race and spacer to ensure it looks good and aligned, easy for the spindle to fit?
I can't see squeeze on the spacer causing an issue, it's designed to sit against the inner races and take the torque needed to secure the rear axle bolt.If you don't like the idea then remove the right side bearing or just move it out slightly. I'm guessing that at present the inner race is slightly recessed on the brake drum side,
Personally, I would be more worried about damage to the bearing on removal.
If there is any significant side load it would show straight away as the right ball race would not rotate freely.
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When assembled properly there is no squeeze on the inner races as the outer race on the non locked side floats in the housing.
The thing i hate in engineering terms knocking out a ball bearing by beating on the inner race can damage the race tracks leading to later failure, thats why i dissagree with removing and regreasing, for the cost of bearings if they come out fit new
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Before you do anything confirm the inner spacer in the sprocket side bearing is in place. Part 12 on the parts book pic. It’s essentially a sleeve to enable the spindle fit the sprocket bearing. Otherwise it would rattle a little. It’s easily damaged if you don’t remove the old bearings in the right order. It’s also easily thrown away with the old bearings if you don’t know it’s there. You should be able to spot it by looking at the inner surface of the bearing.
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It makes it easier to smear some light oil on the outer surface of the bearing, place it in a poly bag and then into the freezer for a while. Ones that I have done before, I just warmed up the hub with one of those hot air guns that you strip paint with on the mid setting.
You have to make sure that the inner spacer stays aligned otherwise the bearing doesn't seat square onto it effectively making the bearing spacing larger than needed.
Regards
Dave
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Many thanks for all of these replies - all really helpful. If I have time, I hope to look at this tomorrow, otherwise it will have to wait a week while I'm away.
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Right - I've tried driving the bearings in further and they have not moved. I assume the n/s bearing is fully seated.
The retainer screws down fully into the bearing outer race, but still leaves just over 1mm between the retainer and the top edge of the sprocket carrier.
I assume the retainer is meant to clamp down on the carrier to squeeze the cush drive rubbers. Could it be that my rubbers are worn down? Does anyone know what thickness the new ones are?
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No it’s not meant to crush the rubbers, there needs to be a small gap to allow the carrier to move.
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As Ken says the carrier needs to be able to rotate slightly as it takes up the drive on acceleration and deceleration.
If the drive rubbers are new you might need a small amount of red rubber grease to fit the sprocket carrier. The hub D ring will also need some grease to reduce the chances of damaging it.
I suspect I misunderstood your first post, these things are difficult to describe especially without photos of the actual issue.
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Hopefully you can see the feeler gauge in the gap...
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A picture paints a thousand words, at least you know the bearings were fitted okay.
When the wheel is in the frame & axle torqued up it should be all good.
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Thanks Ted. That would be really good news. I won't be able to get back in the workshop until the end of next week, but will press ahead and let you know what happens.
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I've now got the hub pretty much assembled. Retainer is tightened right down. I'm still not convinced this much movement is correct.
I've hopefully attached a short video to demonstrate this.
I don't want to go any further unless everyone agrees this is normal.
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No, that's not normal.
Personally I'd remove the bearings and see what it feels and looks like when assembled without the bearings in place. You'd know what it should look like then. Mine is completely solid by hand, needs considerable force to make it move and then it only goes forward not sidewards like yours. My wheel is bare ATM so I could assemble it and see what it looks like. Might take me a few days to find everything though, limited mobility at the moment.
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I've just stripped an old 550 wheel that is in very good condition, and measured from the top surface of the bearing to the top surface of the sprocket carrier, using a set of vernier calipers, on both old and new wheels.
The difference is an average of 1.4 mm. It has to be that my bearings are not seated right. I'll see if my local machine shop will put them in their press to double check. Otherwise out they must come.
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When you look down into where the spindle fits does the center spacer and inner races look like everything is seated right ?
Is it possible that a spacer tag has become trapped between the bearing and the hub on the left side?
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Good news - my local engineering works managed to press the bearings in another 0.5mm. All seems happy now. Can't believe it's been such a saga.
Thanks for all the help on here.