Honda-SOHC
Other Stuff => Misc / Open => Topic started by: kifer on March 22, 2012, 10:49:42 PM
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Nearly ready for MOT but cannot decide on what indicators to fit. Do they have to be fitted for MOT? Bike is registered 1978
I remember my old 1979 Briton had none as standard.
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If the switchgear is there for them they must be installed and working.
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unscrew / balank off the switch if your MOT tester is particuarly picky - like none I've ever used has had an issue with no indicators on an old bike, even where switches are fitted, but with most bikes so long as the indicators are not fitted then it's ok so long as the bike is either pre '85 manufacture or sigle seat limited road use (trail bike)
Personally I always run road bikes with indicators fitted (if I can get them working, I have put a bike through an mot with them removed if they are miss behaving, but I genrally try to keep them in good order). 500/4 indicators are fitting with the bike (if it's a 500/4), 550k3 ones might be right for a k3 but if I gave a cobblers about the look I'd still retrofit the earlyer ones as I think they look better. At the end of the day it's one less excuse for some numpty in a car to give as to why they knocked you off. Anything that makes me safer for so very little effort is worth it.
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They are barstewards over here for MOT. They were gonna fail my car because the tester felt it was too noisy. They don't have any way of measuring the noise output.
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I've been using lots of different MOTers over years (and worked in an MOT bay) My bikes don't have indicators but do have switches, and have never even been mentioned. The rule is if you have indicators (or any other lights) they have to work, I can't find any reference to switches in the MOT testers handbook.
You could always get the MOT doen then sort indicators out, or like me ....use your arm ;D ....pretty hard to leave an indicator on that way ::) ;D
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Cheers to everyone for input, True about arm signals not much chance leaving them on, Will speak to local MOT lad before I Take it. Fitted new loom so all geared up for flashers gave some 750 originals away a few years back [ as you do ] now I will have to look for some more or some similar, spend is going out of window now I suppose every body has the same? you way up cost at start of build but always forget to double it. GOOD TIP Don't keep a log of bike spends in case the misses finds it!!!
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you way up cost at start of build but always forget to double it. GOOD TIP Don't keep a log of bike spends in case the misses finds it!!!
Yep, know that feeling. I didn't like the original CB750 master cylinder for the front brakes on my cafe racer, big, clumsy (and dirty looking) plastic pot sticking up in the air.
So I sourced a CBR600/900 unit off Flea-bay for £45.
When I got it the lever was corroded to fek and no amount of polishing was getting it sorted, so another £18 for a new ally lever, also when I took the lever off I found the piston seals were shot as was the cap seal (reservoir filled with water ) so another £28 for the main seals and £9 for a cap seal.
I also wanted to strip and polish it, Nitromors doesn't work on brake-fluid resistant paint and I don't have a compressor to blast it myself ,so off to the local bead blasters, another £12.50.
Total cost for a 'cosmetic' mod? £112.50. Luckily SWMBO doesn't know about this site either!
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You'll be even sicker to know Dave Silver has brand new genuine ones including lever for £69.00 :'(
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I took my indicators off because I kept leaving them on by mistake and I should know better because I have been riding continuously for 31 years but it's too easy to do. Even I can remember to put my arm back down.
If you leave your indicator on and are indicating left, a foolish car driver may pull out in front of you. The other thing to remember is that on sunny days the indicators on these old machines are often invisible so don't put too much faith in them. Perhaps an additional hand signal is advisable in bright conditions.
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Good point about the sun never thought about that one, solved problem got some old honda ones will fit them on this week, gives me a choice then. Also if I hold the old arms up to long they start to ache and the mind after 40 years of riding struggles with left and right.
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Also if I hold the old arms up to long they start to ache
Ah, that'll be the self cancelling indicator unit working. ;)
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Didn't the RD400's have self cancelling indicators? Anyone know if that is part of the indicator relay fitted....I was thinking the other day it would be a usful thing to have.
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I'm not sure but the switch was different. It doesn't stay to the side, always centres itself.
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Just looked on the auction site and then at an RD400 wiring diagram online - there is a self-cancelling unit that does the job.
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XS1100's had self cancelling indicator units, they're separate units that plug into the loom.
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Yes but both of them had special speedometers with wires coming out of them that went to the cancelling unit
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True they do, when the bike is below a certain speed the unit doesn't cancel the indicators, so if sat at traffic lights or junction with indicators on you want them to stay on, once up to a certain speed the unit timer would kick in.
Clever buggers ain't they.
I'll stick to the "arm ache" self cancelling unit ;)
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I fitted a 12v chirper on one bike not to loud but never left them on with that. I think its one of those things we are all guilty of.
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I find the big flashing tell tale on the instruments gives a fair reminder, After all you do occasionally need to check the speedo, especially in these gatso infested times. Only found it an issue on my sidecar as it was a bit slower and less of a speeding issue plus the left indicator wasn't visable from seated position and the tell tale can 'shine' in sunight......
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on the RD's the unit works of an off set drum & wires in the bottom of the speedo so it would be a big job to to fit it. but it is a great idea cant see why Yamaha stopped fitting it
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I found them a pain. They were never on when I wanted nor ever off when I wanted.