Honda-SOHC
General => New Member Introductions => Topic started by: antonypo on March 31, 2014, 08:08:26 PM
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;D Hi there.
I have just joined and am awaiting the delivery of my run down ebay 1974 k4. i cant tell you much of a big kid its made me!
I live in northwich cheshire and was wondering if anyone can recommend a good company to spray the tank and side panels?
The engine does turn over so hopefully i can just change cam chain and set up/clean carbs etc.
Can anyone tell me how to get the engine casings in such pristine condition like others ive seen on the internet?
Is it just sprayed or do people blast the engines clean and then seal them somehow?
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Howdy
I love the oddball colours these old girls come in.I had my eye on that who would have thought a bike could look so good in brier brown.
I left my cases so I don't cry when it rains on it. ::) unfortunately the only way to get them shinny is with lots and lots of elbow grease.
Mick
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Hi, and welcome to the site.
I also had my eye on the this bike (I have a K4) Lets us know what parts you are looking for once you have the bike, and any questions, the American models (K3,K4,K5) have a number of differences.
Alan
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Hi and welcome to the group----Ken
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:'( i already know i need a foam for the seat and good quality cover - assuming it fits the wronger on it. also lock ,latch and hinges.
the front mudguard has been butchered short(shall i live with it) and there's no actual button to electrically start. i turned it over by poking a small screwdriver in the hole. obviously a new 2k exhaust system (no i cant afford it) a l/h side panel and the rest will be noted on (my 1st) strip - down. oh and covers for the faded rev counter and speedo.
I also need decals for the tank, a reputable spray company who will spray in an original colour i decide on and l/h logo for side panel.
i think the tank badges are goosed too.
Can someone borrow me some money please !!
n.b cant find brown as an original colour mentioned anywhere on the tinternet. what do you think?
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Hi antony and welcome
pete
(http://yoursmiles.org/tsmile/transport/t4014.gif) (http://yoursmiles.org/t-transport.php)
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Hello and welcome to the forum :), make sure you post plenty of photos during your rebuild ;) cheers Mick.
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Just realized you probably have a k3 as there wasn't a brown k4.
So it should be Maxim Brown Metallic.The only way to tell for sure is with the frame no:
If the frame number starts-2200001 its a k3 if it starts-23000001 its a k4
Sorry don't know a painter near you.
Iv never seen Maxim Brown but I know my painter could get it spot on.
Mick
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Welcome to the forum mate. Make sure you change that 16" rear rim as well....looks like a k3 to me based on the engine fin detail..?
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Keen eye there James it took me a wile to spot that
But wouldn't that make it a k4
k0-k3 had 4
K4-K7 had 3
Mick
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Yeah I managed to confuse myself then - that's a k4 on fin detail so must be a k4..
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oh my god ! are you saying its the wrong rear wheel as well? looks like an expensive miss by me.
Whats the damage and are they available? So the rear brake drum is not original either i suppose
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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btw
Year: 1974 made in Dec 73
Engine No: CB750E-2339153
Frame No: CB750-233578 so why no brown mentioned for k4?
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antonypo,
The rear drum looks like the right one.All you need is rim,spokes,tape,tyre and tube and you are back to standard,all available still and a wheelbuilder if you cant do it yourself.
Cheers
Bitsa
PS One of my engines is 23681 etc and IS a k4
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Your numbers match to a K4.
Flake orange, olive green & brown metallic colour schemes are K3
The K4 colours are, flake orange, boss (plum red) maroon, freedom green metallic.
Alan
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Welcome to the mad,mad world of the SOHC. Enjoy, there is a ton of info to be had.
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;D
Ive started to tinker with the bike today. used my t100 bonny battery to try and start it but the fuels no good in the tank. I cleaned the filter below the tank as it was full of rubbish. I suppose the carbs will be too so im going to take them off tomorrow and dump them in engine cleaner in my ultrasonic machine i use to restore clock movements. Then im going to attempt a start again with fresh fuel. i realised that the previous owner has ground off the lugs that the seat hinges attaches to for some reason. today i also said sod it and ordered a seat from david silver spares. I know its a bit premature but it was the last in stock and I dont think I could use the base of the one on it. i ordered the seat (original) and the bars to go through each hinge. Im in need of the lugs which are part of the frame. my brother is a welder so he can do the welding but what do i do about the lugs - see pic . i see the lock is available but not the plate seat lock set part no 50223-341-000. any help with this would be appreciated.
Thanks for the information regarding the rear wheel. its not expensive to get the rear wheel and spokes etc which is a suprise. having said that the originals are £100 but aftermarket only £36. Is it worth the extra money? Also theres two sizes and which would mine have been since its not here to look at . 1.85x19 40 hole or 2.15x18 40 hole?
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If you looking to keep the bike i would go for a DID rim, with stainless steel spokes. The £36 ones are 36 for a reason, they do not last very long. The lugs will have to be made unless you can find a member who is doing a cafe racer. He/she will be cutting them off.
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Front wheel is 19", rear is 18".
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You might get some lugs from the Bike Butcher Norniron. He is always cut something of his bikes.
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Cut all the shit off her,makes her nice and light.easier to wheelie then.thats if the clutch holds out
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I can get a DID kit but it says the spokes in the kit are mild steel. Aren't they supposed to be chrome?
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Chrome is only a plating over mild steel. Have you got a link? I'd be surprised if they are just bare steel.
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http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750-four-k4-usa_model482/rear-wheelrebuild_00000kit0066/#.Uz9C2ag7ssA
it does say oem spokes but not chromed. they look different than these too
http://www.cmsnl.com//search.php?s_keyword=spoke&Button_Insert=search&partblk_category=&partblk_block=&part_hotitem=&model_id=482
so is the kit a cheaper alternative spoke with a good did rim?
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Probably nickel plated. I got myself a front rim and spokes from David Silver years ago, I can't complain at the price.
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB750K4-FOUR-1974-USA/
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Antony, try Central Wheel Components for rim and spokes. They will even built the wheel for you. CMS would be expensive, by the time you add on VAT and postage. A wheel builder is no cheap these days.
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as usual great advise - thanks. next one !
I'm going to take off the carbs and ultrasonically clean them with proper apl engine cleaner. What will not be able to go in the machine, rubber, floats ?
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well the carbs are off but not had any advice yet about what NOT to put in the ultrasonic cleaner. i decided to try and take off the crap exhaust but low and behold one of the inner bolts (12mm) which hold the exhaust to cylinder head clamp is rounded off. How the hell am i going to get this off !
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Antony is the ultrasonic tank heated? It's really best to try and strip the individual carbs but you could clean the assy 'complete'. Obviously pull off the float bowls and unscrew the pilot / main jets. I'd also take out the floats and needle valve / seat - this is where the main supply of fuel enters the carbs and is a bottleneck. You'll need an airline to properly blow through all orifices after cleaning. It's time consuming and you need to be methodical but it's a rewarding job.
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yes its a heated cleaner and its recommended for the liquid im using. I want to know what i can clean in it as im no mechanic and dont really want to pull carbs apart if i dont need to. i know they will need setting up and balancing in the future so will pay someone but dont want to give it to someone in bits !
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Looking at what you've taken off, still the whole rack in at 50 deg with the bowls off. Can you post some photos of the carbs with the bowls removed..?
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will do tomorrow. ive also sent an email to the seller of the cleaning fluid. reading the instructions for removal it suggests NOT taking off the bowl rubber gaskets unless they're damaged. i assume that's because they may leak once disturbed?
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Well as you can see I've taken the picture of the carb' with the bowls off. Already in trouble !
One of the rubber gaskets was broken in situe. Don't know if it was sucking air. I couldn't get one of the pins out of the float bowls so decided to leave it in after a bit of a go. I don't want to damage it any more than i have trying to get it out. It could easily make the float bowl stick.
All in all I have I decided to leave the rest in tact and have now put it in the cleaner.
Will take a picture when its done.
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Hi antonypo,
There gubby but anything can be clean.
Is that rust there to, if so tank might need lining.
Paul
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No it was "jellified" petrol. Well thats my word for it. I've taken it out of the cleaner but no photo yet. They are cleaner but i think i should have gone a bit less diluted. 10/1 as recommended has cleaned it but some grime is loose but not come away from the outside. This leads me to think that inside the jets may still not be clean. My next step is to take one off at a time and strip it out and clean the jets as someone previously said with air. i have a canister for blowing out grime from the laptop - that should do until tomorrow.
About the tank lining paul. As far as I can tell it looks clean inside and no rust underneath. When I send it to paint would they do it or is it something I can do? What is the process and is it prudent to do it?
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Anthony, if you don't have access to a proper air line I'f suggest getting yourself a can of Wynne's carb cleaner. Use the 'straw' attachment to blow through all orifices after you've removed from the us tank. Also, remove all of the jets before cleaning again (small flat head for pilot, 8mm for main jet holder/emulsion tube and unscrew the main jet from this as well, 10mm for float valve seat).
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good idea. I will do that. i assume I don't really need to rebuild these carbs unless there's a problem? been reading it's advisable if their out but a complete kit is about £25. Times that by each carb and it's yet another money pit area which may not be necessary. It's done 40,000 mls btw.
While we're on the miles subject, I see that you can refurb your original speedo and tacho but the costs are more than replacement ones - about £60 each. I would do it myself cheaper but I read that there are other things internally that need checking.
So is it worth keeping the originals when mine is imported with no paperwork . I have proof of purchase and import duty paid btw.
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I'd focus on the basics of getting it running first. Unfortunately you cant afford to cut corners on the carbs, if you do you'll regret it (trust me its the voice of experience :-).
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All im saying is how do i know if its necessary to refurb the carbs? I've cleaned them - or will be finished tomorrow. is there something I can do to know? any obvious ware I can look for. I really need to carry on dismantling really. Its a total strip down of the frame to powder coat and then start rewiring,refurb brakes, get a proper size back wheel sorted etc. try to source a good spray company
i think I should come back to the carbs when the time is right. I was contemplating getting the engine cleaned professionally outside because i know it turns over, I was hoping nothing major is wrong inside other than a service and check timing etc
Maybe change the camchain but I dont know if that's necessary. It was running of sorts in the u.s. apparently.
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Anton
How many times have I heard supposedly,apperently.Do NOT asume you know what that means.Check all and you will have peach of mind.Plus 1 with James.
Cheers
Bitsa
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;)
ok thanks Bitsa. For a start i'm ordering the x4 carb kits off ebay. The sizes stated don't match the manual, but they state for my year. Main jet 110 slow jet 40. Manual says 120 ?? I could check mine but they could have been changed i suppose as it's got a 4 into 1 fog horn on it. I'm going for the 4 into 4 original eventually.