Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: Lynx on September 07, 2014, 06:48:36 PM
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My clutch drag is starting to be a right pain in the arse. I've stripped and checked everything 3 times now. I've fitted new friction plates, genuine clutch springs, thrust washer, basket internal collar (top hat bearing) and clutch cable. None of this has made any difference. The lifter mechanism looks to be in very good condition. The metal plates are perfectly flat. Everything rotates freely in neutral but in gear it's chomping at the bit and you just can't get it into neutral. You can get in it fine while you are still rolling. What an I missing? I've been working on my own bikes for over 30 years but this has me stumped now :'(.
I've included a photo as I'm a bit concerned about the amount I have had to screw up the bottom cable adjuster and also the adjusting screw seems to be screwed in quite a long way to me. There is also seems to be quite a gap between the back of the little lifter arm and the shaft seal.
Any help much appreciated.
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My bastard did that a few years ago did all that crap and the gear shift oil seal persisantly dribbled.With all the years gone and my knowledge lacking the past 30 years or so changed the oil back to mineral and the problem went.Not saying its a cure for you but it fixed mine.
Cheers
Bitsa
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I am using semi synthetic 10w40.
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Semi-synth motorcycle specific oil? If it's a general automotive motor oil then the friction modifiers in the additive pack may cause wet-clutch slip. Think it's been fairly well documented on the forum in the past..?
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Yes I know. It's bike specific and I soaked the plates in it over night.
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Ok cool, sorry not trying to teach granny to suck eggs and all that. V annoying by the sound of it. I had a similiar issue on a 750 and in the end the only solution was to source a second hand clutch assembly and swap it in. Cured the problem. Then I fitted the new friction plates from the old assy and worked a treat. Good luck with it. James
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Go back to mineral and it will get better it did with mine and then like a doughnut did it with the 750 but have to say not so bad.
Cheers
Bitsa
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I've used mineral and semi-synth in mine, according to whatever was in the garage at the time, and never had a problem. Wouldn't use fully snyth, mind.
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Actually I ran the bike on mineral oil for 500 miles while it was running in and I had the drag then too. It couldn't be anything in the gear box could it?
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Lynx, is the engine just rebuilt (looks it).... could it be due to a case gasket of the wrong thickness?
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Hi Lobo. Yes it's completely rebuilt. Any particular gasket? I do have other clutch spares I can try but I chose the best looking ones originally. I need to order another basket damper kit first.
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Hi Lynx... no personal experience of 'bad gaskets' here, and simply er... 'clutching' at straws as you seem to have been meticulous about every other aspect. TBH the adjuster indeed looks as though it's compensating for way more than a mil or two of gasket.
Be sure to let us know how what the problem 'was' & good luck..
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Woohoo! Sorted. We'll much better anyway. I swapped out the whole clutch and lifting mechanism with used spares I had. The first test it was fine. If anything, a bit the other way. Clutch only bit at the end of the lever travel. I thrashed it up to 9k a couple of times but it didn't slip. For the second test I rode it into town to pick up a couple of things. It was fine most the time but did clonk a bit when changing into 1st. Then when I got home I had trouble getting it into neutral again, but it wasn't pulling like before. I still don't know what was causing the bad drag before. All the old bits (including new plates
) look fine and very similar to what I've put in.
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Good news; interesting to read little visible difference noted, but 'a whole different feel'
Simon.