Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: antonypo on January 12, 2015, 01:15:55 PM
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As I have rebuilt the swing arm, changed bearings and powder coat, renewed dust seals and caps etc, I bought two replacement grease nipples incase of ware and blockages etc.
However in my ignorance I assumed these screwed in but as the picture shows there are no threads.
How do I get the old ones out and fit new ones without a thread?
k4 usa cb 750
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They just press in ;)
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Assuming they create pressure how do they stay in?
Do i just pull the old ones out?
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Anthony
The last set I got from CSMNL did not fit too small had to use the old ones so be careful getting them out
Cheers
Bitsa
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I just taped mine in with a rubber mallet.
Pull them with a pair of mole grips they come out easy enough.
Mick
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when fitting ONLY tap on the flange --not the end as it tends to flatten them and they dont work.
Asimple drift with a relatively close fitting hole drilled in it works.
To remove use mole grips.
As said a lot of people(Me included) drill and tap 6mm and fit a standard threaded one
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I suppose I should have added the mallet I used is incredibly soft I think it was a pound shop reject.
Mick
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I suppose I should have added the mallet I used is incredibly soft I think it was a pound shop reject.
Mick
Well. get a good heavy one and whack yourself in the head ;D
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Bit harsh Trig even for you. :P
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Bit harsh Trig even for you. :P
I was thinking pickaxe first ;D ;D ;D
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Once again thank's for the advice - job done. One nipple didn't work so glad I checked. The other was fine so left alone.
Swing arm now on and SLOWLY but surely getting there.
I have to go backwards tomorrow a little bit. I have not fitted the bolts to the steering/ yolk. I can't find any reference to torque settings in the haynes.
Any ideas where to look on the tinternet?
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Don't forget to put the washers in the yolk to prevent them from cracking.No:9
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750-four-k4-usa_model482/partslist/F++03.html#results
Mick
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yes thanks for the advise i have all new replacement parts - but no torque settings !!
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Anthony
I do all bolts up to resistance and then a quick nip especially with 6mm bolts and so far I have had no problems.On the front end the 8mm bolts its them that take the humph not the 6s
I am sure the experts will coment real soon
Cheers
Bitsa
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Hi,
No comment Bitsa, after a lifetime using spanners to earn a living, the only nuts I torque are the cylinder head bolts----Ken
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Great - will do it tomorrow. What next? Fit wheels, electrics, fit engine ?
Just to confirm - all powder coated, fitted new tapered bearings and completed steering except nuts, swing arm fitted with new bushes and rear shocks.
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Same here Ken thats my thoughts exactley mate with you on that one :D
Cheerrs
Bitsa
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Great - will do it tomorrow. What next? Fit wheels, electrics, fit engine ?
Just to confirm - all powder coated, fitted new tapered bearings and completed steering except nuts, swing arm fitted with new bushes and rear shocks.
I did notice in your picture that you have the forks on. You really want to be fitting the engine in the frame with only the center stand and swinging arm on. When you start bolting parts on the frame starts to get a bit heavy to move and drop over the engine.
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Thanks Trigger. I need to finish off what i am doing tomorrow and start cleaning the engine up then.
I have a few questions about that. Do i need to take off the cam cover 1st. The carbs are off already.
How do I protect the powder coat as I know it can be a tight fit.
I have heard you can check the cam chain tensioner while the air box is off somehow. Must be easier while its out of the bike but not sure what to do assuming the story is correct.
Anything else I can do while its out of the bike to make life easier? Its a runner by the way - when I bought it but obviously not run for a few months now and not been inspected or serviced.
All I know is its ran and sounded ok before purchase.
As usual your help would be appreciated lads.
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Don't forget you need to remove your nice posh powder coat where the engine mounts and earth strap are and also where the earth lead bolts on by the coils
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I knew about the earth leads but not about the engine mounts - thanks !
Any advice on the other points I mentioned previously please anyone?
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Thanks Trigger. I need to finish off what i am doing tomorrow and start cleaning the engine up then.
I have a few questions about that. Do i need to take off the cam cover 1st. The carbs are off already.
How do I protect the powder coat as I know it can be a tight fit.
I have heard you can check the cam chain tensioner while the air box is off somehow. Must be easier while its out of the bike but not sure what to do assuming the story is correct.
Anything else I can do while its out of the bike to make life easier? Its a runner by the way - when I bought it but obviously not run for a few months now and not been inspected or serviced.
All I know is its ran and sounded ok before purchase.
As usual your help would be appreciated lads.
If you have any pipe insulation in the garage. Use that to protect the frame.
Not sure how you removed the engine but, the best way is lay the engine on something soft on its right side ( i use a thick sheet of polystyrene) . That is without the points cover or the points in place as they will get damage. Then with two people, lower the frame over the engine, line it up and put the mounting bolts in. One person at the front and the other at the rear, stand the bike up. At this point i put it on its center stand and have axle under the front of the frame to balance it up.