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Messages - rbt1548
1
« on: April 09, 2025, 04:18:01 PM »
Thanks!!
2
« on: April 09, 2025, 12:56:24 PM »
Thank you!
3
« on: April 09, 2025, 11:49:53 AM »
I got a 1976 CB250, (UK G5), model, in nice condition which the previous owner left for over a year but didn't bother draining the tank or the carbs before laying it up. It did start but would only run on the left cylinder, the right plug was bone dry indicating to me that the carb was bunged up.
I cleaned the tank and had it lined, cleaned both carbs to within an inch of their lives, refitted them and both cyls fired, pleased with that but noticed when revved it would hang off idle before slowly settling back down. As there were a few things I wasn't happy with I decided to go through the bike, starting at cam chain adjustment then valve gaps, points and timing, the auto advance unit was filthy so that was stripped, cleaned, and lubricated, everything put back together and the hanging revs problem was gone, good chance it was the auto advance unit sticking a bit.
I realised the only thing I hadn't done was the float heights and the question is with regards to the float height, I have searched for a definitive answer and read info in various places and there seems to be differing opinions on float height and how the carbs should be sitting whilst checking the height, FSM says 18.5mm, carbs vertical with tang just touching float needle and choke side at the top, others give a range of heights from 19mm-23mm with the carb slightly tilted, others stating because of the newer fuels E10 etc heights should be increased slightly.
I would be grateful if someone could tell me which would be the best setting and way to do it please?
Thanks
4
« on: July 07, 2023, 02:45:07 PM »
PS thats not rust, its patina.
You lucky man, 'Patina' can add hundreds to the value of a bike!
5
« on: June 16, 2023, 11:09:36 AM »
£465 is three times what I paid on my Triumph Trident 660 (£151), and I have no voluntary excess.
Agreed, £465 is totally ridiculous, who are you with for your Triumph?
6
« on: June 16, 2023, 10:42:15 AM »
Now, I am sure you are all aware of the the "voluntary excess" type, let's say, 'money making exercise', that goes on when trying to insure a bike.
I have just recently bought a modern bike, a 2017 BMW F800r, having a classics policy with RH I will just add it to that at a not too unreasonable price, but I thought I would shop around to see prices elsewhere. Nine times out of ten when you look at the quote it has added some sort of varying scale of voluntary excess, as I always take no voluntary excess when getting a quote for my car or bike, I take it off and the price may just rise by a few pounds.
Yesterday I got a quote from BeMoto for £465 for a single bike which was bad enough, and with a total excess of £500, made up of £300 compulsory and £200 voluntary, when informed I did not want the voluntary, the young lady sounded a bit shocked and said she would have to go and speak to someone, she then came back and asked me to confirm I did not want voluntary excess, I confirmed and she then said ok, 'without voluntary the price is now £465!', the exact same as with the £200 voluntary, I asked her why it was the same and she couldn't explain it, granted it is not the young lady's fault but it's totally ridiculous.
If I had been inexperienced, or not savvy enough to not want voluntary excess, should I have had an accident I would have ended up £200 out of pocket for taking the £200 voluntary excess for absolutely no benefit to me in reduction of premium at all.
By all means if you have a low excess of say £50 or £100 and you think bringing it up to maybe £250 is fine and you're getting a good bit off your premium, do it, but check how much you are going to pay extra by not taking voluntary excess, possibly just a couple of quid, or in my case, absolutely zero.
7
« on: June 07, 2023, 09:41:58 AM »
What's a sympathetic restoration?
Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
I believe it's where you play classical music in the background whilst restoring it and keep telling the bike, "Now, now, it'll be fine in the end!" I, of course, could be wrong!
8
« on: June 06, 2023, 12:43:57 PM »
I too was with Peter James, but for some reason the premiums hiked up, I spoke to RH insurance and they will cover both classic and modern, like a lot of classic policies there is no NCB but the premiums tend to be more realistic. Not only that you get to talk to a human type person and the is no charge for amendments, which some companies charge up to £50 just to type in something different, another money making con, excess is £50, and you can retain salvage should you have the unfortunate luck to have an accident. https://www.rhspecialistinsurance.co.uk/
9
« on: June 02, 2023, 03:43:36 PM »
Plain or flat, same thing. How tight, well nipped it is how I'd describe it, the split pin will stop it coming off if it's too loose so not so tight that you risk stripping it and not so loose you can remove it with fingers. The step on the bolts prevents you overtightening these nuts.
Thank you!, I just realised it was typed flat instead of spring, nipped up is sensible, thanks once again.
10
« on: June 02, 2023, 03:12:58 PM »
Everyone I've seen has a flat and a spring washer at the front bolt, plain washer on first, then flat. The flat washer is the same diameter as the step on the bolt, the spring the same as the bolts thread which is normally 8mm.
As for the brake plate end, large, thick rubber washer same diameter as the step, then the torque arm goes on and that should cover the rest of the step if the rubber washer is thick enough, the idea being that the nut and plain washer on the thread should crush the rubber washer slightly so that acts like a spring washer keeping tension on the nut and also acts as an isolator for vibrations.
I was going to make some of those rubber washers but as most of them are already crushed I'd need the thickness of a new one so I could source the correct thickness rubber sheet to make them with Anyone has dimensions of a new one, OD, ID and thickness I'd be obliged.
Thank you Oddjob, much appreciated, could you please clarify something for me, the piece highlighted in your reply ?, should it read 'flat washer first, then spring?', or am I getting mixed up with plain and flat? Also how tight should it be?, especially the brake plate end as I would imagine that 'too tight' would negate the effect of isolation and tension given by a rubber washer. Thanks again.
11
« on: June 02, 2023, 02:47:16 PM »
I was having a general look about in an illustrated parts catalogue and I came across a picture of the Rear Torque Arm and I noticed that parts 676 & 667, (in pic), are noted as 10mm spring washer & 12mm spring washer respectively, on checking mine the two washers are just plain washers, possibly changed by a previous owner, the one at the brake plate end is fine with a thick rubber washer and a plain washer the same dia. as the rubber one. Could someone please tell me if they both should be spring washers? and if possible how tight the nuts on both ends of the torque arm should be? It is no problem for me to change to spring washers as I have 10's & 12's. Thanks. 
12
« on: May 04, 2023, 05:06:54 PM »
Yes, possibly, but on the end bolt with the protrusions pointing down as previously suggested, there is no way to adjust the angle due to the protrusions touching the breather box.
It is indeed a strange one.
I am just going to leave my own as it is as I prefer the run of the cable.
13
« on: May 04, 2023, 02:41:55 PM »
You take the ring off, it's split, turn it round and fit it back onto the inner ring.
Thanks very muchfor info, I thought it was a solid ring. I tried it on the end bolt, apart from showing that the ring was a tad rusty, I felt that the cable run wasn't so smooth and the cable bent a bit, I feel the cable got a cleaner run when it is fitted to the back bolt, so I have put it back there, a couple of pics below to show the run when fitted to end bolt.  
14
« on: May 04, 2023, 01:07:29 PM »
It's meant to sit the other way up with the flanges of the ring facing down, this then stops the ring rotating and keeps it in the correct orientation. In which case the end bolt is probably the only one it would fit.
Honda wouldn't have put the flanges on the ring unless they had a use.
That does make sense and is probably correct. I will leave mine as it is just now as I am content with it and would need to disconnect the cable to take the guide off and turn it the other way round. Once I take the cable off I will try it in the location suggested by Oddjob.
15
« on: May 04, 2023, 09:09:52 AM »
Interesting picture rbt - does it clear the petrol tank okay?
Yes Ted, it sits almost directly under the coils, so with the tank clearing the coils it will clear the cable holder.
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