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Messages - Priddy
1
« on: March 09, 2026, 06:43:08 PM »
Anyone know the correct fork spring length? Haynes notes 484.5 (with 460 minimum) but mine measure an exact 500mm. The manual does state the F2 to have a length of 500mm but no mention made of the F1 - considering dropping the tubes through by 10mm to see how it affects the handling.
2
« on: March 07, 2026, 06:05:20 PM »
There is no end to this topic, regardless of vehicle it seems very much down to preference. I am running a new clutch and Castrol 20/50 Semi Synth and it is still a bit fickle, very grabby clutch and perversely if you 'blip it' on down changes (as I always have) it now crunches gears! considering Morris mineral oil (gold 20/50?) next time following advice from an 'I used to race these motors in a sidecar' bloke!
3
« on: March 07, 2026, 05:48:56 PM »
That's good advice I feel, i have all apart at the moment and giving all a good clean and inspect. Seals etc all looked good but being replaced so will will have a measure up as I rebuild. I'm going to pull the headstock and replace the head bearings whilst I'm about it to make sure any wobbles and bounces are as they should be!
4
« on: February 18, 2026, 01:59:25 PM »
I'm about to service my front forks/head bearings etc and considering whether its worth replacing the fork springs with a progressive set, any advice/recommendation's?
5
« on: October 09, 2023, 03:32:54 PM »
Further checks do point to the clutch switch! never underestimate the obvious.
Thanks for replies i'll get one ordered!
6
« on: October 09, 2023, 03:17:01 PM »
I don't think its a US spec, UK as far as I know!
7
« on: October 09, 2023, 02:52:27 PM »
Looking for a bit of help here, my F1 has started to not restart if stalled in gear. I've gone through the wiring testing all and fitted a solenoid, all indications are that the wiring is fine. Bike starts and runs fine but will ONLY start on the button if in neutral.
Any clues would be appreciated (P.S. neutral light works fine) - Thanks in anticipation!
8
« on: November 13, 2020, 05:08:48 PM »
Thanks to all, sounds like Timeserts are the obvious choice, always used Wurth kit when in the motor trade so gives me confidence!
9
« on: November 12, 2020, 09:56:17 PM »
Yes considered in situ but as no 3 (hardest to access) I figured remove the head and get done properly by someone with experience.
10
« on: November 12, 2020, 07:09:58 PM »
Hi all, I have had issues from day 1 with no 3 spark plug and it is obvious I need to address this as although the plug is in the thread is not good. I am assuming its an engine out/head off job. Anyone experience of this job/Helicoils?
11
« on: June 04, 2020, 01:35:06 PM »
I use Garmin although I find the mapping and software a bit of a faf as you are forever updating the lifetime maps!
Not yet fitted my old (660) unit to my F1 but on the list to do as I find it useful when just out for a ride to look at alternative routes as I go (and music is nice sometimes!) .
12
« on: May 27, 2020, 10:55:22 PM »
I understand your point and as an engineer I am loath to tamper with what appears to be standard but I have checked and the pad does not sit flush to the disc due to the raised section in the lower half of the pad. The calliper back section has no corresponding 'dimple' recess to accept the raised section of the pad so I remain puzzled.
If the modification allows the pad to sit in line and flush with the disc and calliper back as I expect all well and good - if not I will replace the pads, I hope to report back with images soon!
13
« on: May 26, 2020, 07:19:48 PM »
Hi Brian,
My pad has a raised 'hump' but distinctly from the centre (bullseye) to the lower (6 o'clock) area. Spoke to an old Honda tech today who advised the pad may be a generic one and some of the 500/550s had this from new - it definitely puts the pad at a slight offset vs the disc. For the price of a set of pads I am going to remove the hump to see if it improves the feel!
14
« on: May 25, 2020, 11:33:19 PM »
Hi,
I have replaced most of the front braking system and have a reasonable braking efficiency but on a recent strip and service I noted the inner brake pad to have a raised section towards the bottom not as one could expect in the centre of the pad. As this is the inner pad it is actuated by pressure from the outer where the piston is and as the retaining section of the inner calliper appears thus to have an imbalanced amount of force to the lower area as a result does in due course I suspect cause a spongy feel when pressure applied as a result of the inner calliper housing being forced to flex.
Now, I propose grinding off the raised section to ensure the back of the brake pad sits perfectly against the calliper and hopefully giving a firmer feel, my long winded question is has anyone experience of this and is it normal to have this raised section at the bottom of the inner pad?
Thanks!
15
« on: October 23, 2019, 06:02:08 PM »
Thanks for info! I now understand why nothing made sense! I think I will try the full chatter as it should be and decide later if I need to install the 'quietining' double plate. I did used to own a Ducati!
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