This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Alimacdee2
1
« on: October 11, 2026, 06:00:24 PM »
thanks Ill get the steel wool and chrome cleaner out, the finish on some really bad will soak worst ones in vinegar,
Well pleased ringers are mostly Whitworth have polished up good,
just to update, vinegar 24hrs has worked well then a degreaser and chrome cleaner with steel wool to stop flash rusting,
2
« on: October 11, 2026, 05:22:46 PM »
Just scored a toolbox full off imperial spanners for a fiver this morning! some whitworth havent looked to closely yet they need a good clean first, bit of a mess but thought I had to grab them, was going to give them a scrub maybe paraffin, or does vinegar actually work?
3
« on: October 09, 2026, 12:18:27 PM »
thanks I'll definetly be careful with that, did label them L/R F/R with masking tape when I removed them, looked okay to me in my limited knowledge of pushrods, the cam followers same. realising the importance right tools for these as advised, finding some nasty butcherd Nuts not nice viewing, need to buy a clutch hub center puller next 1" x 20TPI among others. My diy electroplating is going well though but sad I'm using up my Trustan rust converter on the rear light holder.
4
« on: September 25, 2026, 09:56:07 AM »
thanks good site, wish I’d seen that earlier http://www.aoservices.co.uk/products.html, already have one of those cheap Single Phase Rectifier-Regulator +- units off eBay just to get things started, nearly ready to start wiring in the loom, I’ll upgrade as I go along coils. And I thought the spring thingy improved output!
5
« on: September 23, 2026, 05:14:35 PM »
Thanks for that info again , yes looks like bronze guides in this head see two short two long, valve stems way under spec feel a lot of play in the guides, strange first bronze guide I’ve checked seems good at its limit though, I would have thought they’d be as worn as the stems, was thinking I’d need new valves and guides but if these are still in spec, or false economy
Also can I reuse this copper head gasket?
6
« on: September 22, 2026, 08:20:20 PM »
not a nice surprise hidden under the front engine plate, a good tig welder required! bores look good a little glazed seem to show good numbers with the oversize pistons and no up /down play in the conrods, valves do wobble a fair bit in the guides the Honda's were much tighter than this in spec, maybe down to tolerances in these old engines, not sure.
7
« on: August 22, 2026, 10:26:08 AM »
two wire, think this is it. I would have liked a replacement zener diode they look good under the headlamp, but the combined reg/rectifiers are reasonably priced, think it’s a straight forward upgrade.
8
« on: August 22, 2026, 12:58:40 AM »
Yes will replace with a reg/rectifer, but think Ill retain the positive earth so i can follow the wiring diagrams, I can follow the red earths that way, this spring thingy looks like the rectifier I believe, not sure what this Lucas box at base of stearing head does.
9
« on: August 21, 2026, 11:24:52 PM »
Sorry for delay reposting, after refusal and requests for documentation, and dating from the triumph owners club, interesting the connection to A. Brunnschweiler & co Ltd Nigeria, now registered with age related number, relief!
Amazed at the underside of the rear mudguard, the original paint still intact, the upper side very worn and sun damaged solid good condition, never been off, bike is very oily mess though and the wiring is a right state, strange it has a 12v positive earth with battery, have new wiring harness , the headlamp wiring is totally butchered, and missing the zener diode at front, complete disassembly now.
10
« on: July 08, 2026, 04:03:40 PM »
Should we not also consider the temperature of the oil and it's viscosity at start up, a critical time for the engine. I certainly would not want 20w50 in a cold engine in the winter. (Perhaps you don't ride in winter?)
don’t think it’s a concern in the UK, even the North of Scotland it’s rarely that cold, I usually drive all year round weather permitting when it’s dry, I keep bikes heated in winter to prevent condensation &oxidation forming on engine casings when temperatures drops I’ve also previously found lower viscosity semi synth and full synthetic oils exacerbate problems with leaky cylinder head pucks, threads, and exhaust valve stems on the early cb750 on an older rebuild, and.. now that I’ve heard it, probably due to fluid dynamics and increased flow rates
11
« on: July 07, 2026, 08:40:26 PM »
I’m now using a 20/50 mineral oil, full circle really! I think it’s probably more appropriate for these older engines, these are hot running engines 20/50 at its hottest i see drops to 60psi on my bike, a 10/40 or 10/30 synthetic non synthetic oil would reduce oil pressure, to main bearings, the engineers that designed these must have calculated oil pressure according to engine clearances to match Oil and viscosity back then.
12
« on: June 11, 2026, 07:52:46 PM »
yes I’ve seen those you still get nice kits for that type of fitment, I wanted a lit gauge cluster without any changes to wiring etc a reversible non-destructive upgrade!
13
« on: June 11, 2026, 01:43:30 PM »
thanks, if the fittings aren’t quite matching could introduce a leak, never been a fan of domed fittings because of this, Ive been careful to use correct hose with bsp flat seat fittings which match the gauge and the t-piece, with fibre washers, though not required I have fitted 5mm spring clips to the hose now.
Not to everyone’s taste!
MSELMA004/4 APS Oil Pressure Gauge Capillary Hose 1.2m Long with 2 x 1/8 BSP flat seat female fittings
If I could figure out the plumbing I would fit one of these.
14
« on: June 10, 2026, 10:15:38 PM »
Recently fitted a mechanical Oil pressure Gauge whilst retaining the oil light. The original oil sensor switch was failing wasn't coming on till hot, and what with the oil pump needing priming after the engine rebuild, I thought I'd try replicate the setup I had with my first CB750. An 1/8 bspt adapter with thread sealant and a bsp T piece worked good. I'm getting about 70 lb/in cruising speed drops to about 20 lb/in psi at idle in traffic which was an eye opener.. but I would think that's normal, the oil pump would reduce with engine revs I'm running 20/50 mineral oil. and the unions are all oil tight. Handy thing I have a photo of the original Gauge from 1978 showing similar pressure.
15
« on: April 22, 2026, 10:51:42 PM »
I recently went for a 6kg dry powder extinguisher, covers a wide range of fire risk, and 20sec of discharge, also useful if some low life’s here decide to torch my workshop, this is the world I live in theses days, 29.99 for some peace of mind!
6kg Dry Powder (ABC) – 21A 144B C
|
Show Posts