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Messages - royhall
1
« on: November 19, 2025, 09:28:06 AM »
It's not exactly the best system to have two simplex primary chains tensioned by one tensioner. With the best will in the world these two chains are never going to be the exact same length, nor will they wear the same. So that one tensioner is going to cause chain slap that will resonate through the drive train. Although in practice the chains last very well, it's hardly a good design. So really anything that can be done to keep the rattling at bay is no more than a workaround to limit the effects of that bad design.
People may know otherwise, but I personally have never seen a 750 that doesn't rattle to some degree, all you can do is calm it down with careful setup. In my experience the electronic tacho setup of the jets is very difficult and fiddly to do and barely has any effect on the noise whatsoever. Balancing the air flow across the 4 carbs does appear to smooth out the rattle. As I say, other people may have different experiences, but that is what I found. I would be happy for someone to correct me on this with a proven procedure that works as that rattle is a pain.
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2
« on: November 17, 2025, 03:07:33 PM »
Blimey that was a difficult read.  Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
3
« on: November 15, 2025, 06:34:33 PM »
Whatever you try the rust will eventually return. It's due to a poor chroming job that skipped the copper plating part. Nickel and chromium are slightly porous so without the copper the base layer of steel will always rust through. Pay cheap gets a cheap job.
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4
« on: October 01, 2025, 10:32:13 AM »
That's the way the world is going. Who would try and sell a bike with a dead battery. Have these people no fathers to ask. 
5
« on: October 01, 2025, 10:28:42 AM »
Morning. Had a quick site search and didn't come up with an answer. Did anyone ever come up with a truly workable solution to the famous CB750K clutch rattle. Somebody mentioned a Barnett kit, is that a real thing and does it work. Cheers.
6
« on: September 04, 2025, 09:16:27 PM »
Can you still get Avon RoadRiders. They quit making them a while back when Avon deserted the UK.
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7
« on: September 03, 2025, 10:10:02 AM »
Your choice, good luck.
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8
« on: September 03, 2025, 08:03:31 AM »
I should clarify that the one I fitted that failed was a cheap Chinese eBay item not the Silvers unit.
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9
« on: September 03, 2025, 06:41:34 AM »
Yes I tried them, it failed in about 5 days. I then fitted a well made unit from Electrex World and it's been right ever since. Cost a lot more obviously, but as they say buy cheap buy twice. I could have sent the failed unit back but couldn't be bothered so I just binned it. Electrex products are UK made and top quality, worth every penny if you don't want to be stranded at the side of the road.
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10
« on: July 29, 2025, 11:36:39 AM »
Can weights are just 2 circlips to remove them. Then the Boyer bits fit as the instructions. The hardest part of a Boyer is finding somewhere to fit the control box. Got a Boyer on my 750K5 and it is superb. Bike runs lovely. Bit of a strange procedure to strobe the timing as you have to rev the engine to 5000rpm to set the full advance.
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11
« on: July 27, 2025, 02:16:45 PM »
Nice kit, nice price. Just need another 750 now.
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12
« on: July 27, 2025, 10:52:13 AM »
Very nicely done. What's the price for the kit.
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13
« on: July 18, 2025, 09:13:17 AM »
Are you using genuine points or those horrible Diechi things (sorry can't remember the spelling). I fitted a Silvers electronic on my 750F2 about 10 years ago and have never touched it since. It has done a fair number of miles in that time as well.
Julie is right though, probably best to find the condenser issue first.
14
« on: July 14, 2025, 07:49:11 AM »
The sleeves were made out of stock mild steel tube the right internal diameter to slide over the painted frame tubes.
The bolts were drilled through for slight clearance on the front, but drilled and tapped in the back. The bolts were then screwed into the tubes and just gently nipped. Then a nylock nut was tightened onto the back of the bolt to secure it. That way there was no need for sleeves as there's no crushing force, plus the threaded part located the tubes perfectly.
It was done about 12 year's ago and not the slightest problem with it, and the bike has been used quite a lot. I took it apart about 5 years ago to fix a leaking rocker box gasket and it came apart okay. I did coat the insides of the sleeves with copperslip when I originally built it and that helped. Would have been an engine out job without the modification.
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15
« on: July 13, 2025, 07:29:04 PM »
You are looking for a rare part if my search is anything to go by, even complete bike are scarce now and over £1000 on fleabay.
You could ask DK but the 250 didnt go to us also i have had parts from bg caferacers in stratford. There also used to be a find a part system on the net
Thanks Bryan.
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