Honda-SOHC

Im having a clear out and will be making available parts from a 1977 model to help fund work on another one

Most of parts refurbished approx 10 years ago covered a short distance and stored in dry.

Frame, swing arm, headlamp and carbs not available

Generally complete assemblies ready to install and would prefer collection from near Guildford, Surrey.

Front Wheel complete with new bearings, disc, axle, speedo drive, tyre with minimal use, rebuilt with new spokes, Black powder coated rim £375

Rear Wheel complete with new bearings, axle,  disc, axle, tyre with minimal use, rebuilt with new spokes, Black powder coated rim £350

Front forks complete with new seals and caliper bracket £350

Battery carrier complete with rubbers and zinc plated fixing bolts, powder coated, ready to fit £60

Oil tank, powder coated with cap/dip stick £50

Motad stainless 4 into one exhaust and silencer £150

Top and bottom yokes, powder coated with taper bearing head races £150

I will list more later or let me know what you need and can send photos by Whatsapp or email

 

My theory is they rebated it to aid locating it but then changed their minds. I don't think the rebate helps, it can pull the top back if the screw is tightened too hard and crack the drive inside the camcover. I have a friend looking into making me some tacho drives in another metal to stop it breaking so easily. He has his own CNC machine and likes a challenge. The stumbling block is how much it would cost to make, we'll see.

I also wonder if people have tried to draw in the housing with new outer O ring, using screw.

Mine needed a tap with rubber hammer to seat

My bikes are quite tight in my sheds and it can be difficult to move around, especially as I get older !

I find myself trying to lift rear of my CB750F1 and hoping I dont bugger up my back.

Had a look on Ebay and saw these  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388118190891?_skw=motorbike+mover+dolly&itmmeta=01JQE5M01TWR78G9QE433GXZTH&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dsN1UN4SiDIyZqO736aElrqfFZzvUGwsoiGrwjhZmwYZI3lfRjSD5rWS2tjtVhs8HxtaLDLzCk2o2RXQM0kooPPOCdL0PEXbCGFqPQAJTwAKs7ZpAiOEcwzXr9RgBd5KAQ4uVgvroYSV%2Fl8WntTy3%2BfVcWxHhaAbbWgqJAOP4LozoIeiOE2raFcqug95u1XLKvZUp2xrKH5znfC2423jz5xdc1OO17wqm4eXtiV%2FT6Q6QaRV9RKcg0boPbkAcoCPA%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5CB0MW7ZQ


Interested in others experience and recommendations

Most require the head off again. Lift the barrels an inch or so, compress the tensioner by hand and lock it off with the locknut, Then lower the barrels whilst making sure the end of the tensioner goes into the slot. Check the tensioner body isn't bent, a lot are. It should look straight to the eye. If it's bent straighten it.

Thanks Oddjob.

This was the only way to do it.

I have experienced many issues in past with E10 petrol due to 10% ethanol content.

One of main problems is the drawing in of water from atmospere and damage to rubber parts not designed to resist

I go out of my way to use Esso E5 Super as was the lowest ethanol %

Thanks for help withother issues , its great to have input from others with more experience on these engines.

I have another question, re the fitment of the oil pick up filter in sump.

It is quite a loose fit and only held in position by sump plate. I would have been happier if there was an O ring to seal it, but no groove apparent.

Is this how they are or have I missed something?

Might be of help? This is a picture of mine, you can clearly see where the tensioner end was! Now sitting in the correct position.



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Thats great really helps