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Messages - kevski
1
« on: April 24, 2026, 09:19:42 PM »
If your points system is all well and good, stick with them, decent points and condensers are harder to find now, but I have used Boyer bransden ignitions on a number of bikes and highly recommend them
2
« on: March 22, 2026, 03:09:05 PM »
I’ve noticed as of late a lot of these copper rings are only copper plated steel and aren’t really up to the job, so now I have gone to the aluminium and fibre type, put a magnet to the copper ones if it picks them up they are cheap Chinese fake rings.
3
« on: February 28, 2026, 08:20:15 PM »
Not only a beautiful to look at it was super usable, easy to work on and with, just so well worked out.
4
« on: February 27, 2026, 09:25:25 AM »
I so wish I had kept mine, best bike I’ve ever owned
5
« on: February 19, 2026, 09:49:43 PM »
Bottom line is it what we got here so that’s the attraction, my own favourite is the 350/4, I wish I had not got rid of mine.
6
« on: January 11, 2026, 08:53:38 AM »
As Bryan says, but it may already have some sort of thread lock in there so do not be surprised if it needs warming a little, when putting the new stud in apply a little threadlock on it, not arraldite or the likes of, the threadlock ensures the stud stays without being solidly glued in if you have to remove nut again.
7
« on: December 28, 2025, 10:37:20 AM »
Compression needs to be tested on a hot engine, your problem at present is either float levels too high, leaky float valves, fuel tap not working properly in fact you can have all of these problems, fuel should always be turned off when you switch engine off. Don't strip the top , drain oil, replace filter and oil, do float levels and needles rebuild or replace tap.
8
« on: December 17, 2025, 02:28:04 PM »
Go for 5ft lbs, I never torque these small bolts, always done by feel, hand tight then an eighth of a turn
9
« on: December 11, 2025, 08:37:54 PM »
Sounding like a carb problem, ie pilot circuit, pilot jets maybe gumming up, the overflowing down to float needles either particls jamming them open or jamming and not closing, I took the needles out of mine and polish the 3 ribs with a 1200 grade paper and polished the tips lightly with solvol along with the seats using solvol and a cocktail stick, overflowing cured.
10
« on: December 11, 2025, 05:05:45 PM »
Ideally with clean and serviced carbs, running stock jetting and filters, you need to bench synchronise the butterfly's or slides first, then run the bike up to temperature synchronise at around 4k rpm using the synchronising screws between carbs, then on idle using the pilot circuit fuel or air screw, whichever is applicable.
But if your bike is running fine don't touch it, also don't just warm it up in the garage all the time as this will leave the plugs black and make them hard to start and miss on cylinders.
11
« on: November 13, 2025, 09:02:12 PM »
Polishing chrome surfaces removes small amounts of chrome, the problem is that a lot of these old chrome guards have very little if any nickel or copper under the chrome, chrome has macro cracking naturally so therefore is not waterproof, the iron in the steel oxidises and creates the problem, use aluminuim foil and wd 40 and rub the rust away, then use a very fine polish like brasso or silvo as these are finer than solvol.
My first post in 2 and1/2 years.
12
« on: February 15, 2023, 03:50:33 PM »
Some of your info in the first post in this thread is not at all accurate, but on the whole you done a fair job, p.s nickel is under the copper, saves the use of cyanide base copper strike, though for many years now they have been using alkaline copper strike in a heck of a lot of plating shops.
14
« on: October 09, 2022, 08:08:37 AM »
Me 6, had this on another bike, the stops were thick enough to drill and put m5 cap screws in to stop the problem.
15
« on: October 06, 2022, 10:37:46 AM »
I have in the past made complete screw in overflows.
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