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Messages - PennoK3
1
« on: May 22, 2025, 04:14:43 PM »
Looking at the clutch on my K3 which is the one with the thicker Plate B steel plate. There is a shim behind the circlip on the mainshaft but should there be a spacer between the clutch outer basket and the inner centre/collar? Also for the life of me I can't get my head round how this particular clutch operates to separate the plates. Does anyone have any sort of schematic operating diagram?
2
« on: November 17, 2024, 02:16:17 PM »
Thanks guys. Yes, blocked solid. Had a quick look on the internet for new ones (Size 42) but they all seem to be in Germany. Any UK sources that anyone could recommend?
3
« on: November 17, 2024, 01:01:35 PM »
Simple question, should the hole in the idle jet be clear its full length? Trying to work out if its blocked or correct.
4
« on: November 09, 2024, 05:28:27 PM »
I will look when i get home after holiday, there are 2 types, all will fit but drain plug might be on wrong side
Many thanks.
5
« on: November 09, 2024, 04:22:37 PM »
I have always wondered if theold tube could be removed, the hole tapped and generic tube tapped to suit then sealed in, a lot of work if you can get another bowl! What bike and which carb so when i get back from holiday in a couple of weeks i can look in my scrap box
550 K3 PD46 Carb.
6
« on: November 09, 2024, 04:21:30 PM »
Tried a good coat of solder on the tube but after watching it drain I think it is actually weeping through the joint between the pipe and the float bowl.
7
« on: November 09, 2024, 01:47:14 PM »
Yes, that just popped int my head on a dog walk, worth a try
8
« on: November 09, 2024, 12:48:42 PM »
Standard leaky float bowl procedure of replacing float needles but one carburettor continued to overflow. Removed the float bowl and filled it with petrol and it appears to be a leak through the brass overflow pipe in the float bowl rather than the float needle I assume there isn't any way to replace this and it will mean a replacement float bowl?
9
« on: October 15, 2024, 05:25:05 PM »
OK, found some instructions for installation on t-web 
Undo the centre small nut, take off the big nut on end of crank ..... now where is the red spot located on the aluminium pulse trigger wheel ?
That spot should be aligned with the "1 & 4" marks of the Honda advance and retard mech. If that's opposite (next to 1&2) then it'll do what it's doing now, that's firing the setup at 180 degree away from intended operation.
I was viewing the manual/instructions for install on the SOHC USA site for reference.
Yes the red spot is correctly aligned. I've gone through the installation again today and think I've cracked it through some very careful movement of the electronic board and a combination of completing a full cycle once the LED is lit and positioning with the power off. But it now lights in line with the F1,4 mark and extinguishes after the F 2,3 mark which should be correct. However, in this position there is almost no adjustment left in the bottom right slot on the PCB. Unfortunately, I can't try a start as I've taken the carbs off to sort a leaky float valve. Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.
10
« on: October 15, 2024, 09:30:23 AM »
Thanks for all your suggestions so far guys. I'll give it another look this evening.
11
« on: October 15, 2024, 09:28:55 AM »
Here's a pic of the TEC advancer. Note that the tiny mark in the rim (in white rectangular) should oppose the hole (dito).
Yes, the orientation of the rotor is as the picture.
12
« on: October 14, 2024, 09:09:04 PM »
I'm lining it up against the second mark (5 degrees).
13
« on: October 14, 2024, 07:23:34 PM »
Advancer has not been apart, blue points on the left, yellow points on the right. Blue coil to 1 and 4 plugs.
14
« on: October 14, 2024, 01:50:39 PM »
Yes, everything fits as it should, all original parts are TEC.
15
« on: October 14, 2024, 01:30:53 PM »
I'm assuming it is the correct unit as I checked over the phone when confirming my order.
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