Honda-SOHC

For what it's worth, a few years ago I decided to take the wise decision(sic) to save money and buy a  new pattern fully assemnled backplate. There was noy waynthat I could get spot - on timing for both sets of points, so it became a compromise between 1/4 & 2/3.  First time out and one of the condensors failed 50 miles from home. Returned back home in the cab of an RAC truck.  Dug down my box of bits, found the original backplate and fitted 2 sets of genuine points. This I am still using which means the condensers are now 50 ears old.

If the shiny portion(s) are towards the front and rear of the cylinders, then this is quite normal.  On the firing/downward stroke, as the crank turns the con-rod is not in a vertical plane, and it gives the piston a 'slanting' tendency thereby exerting more pressure at these points. If ever you get the chance to look at a large  marine diesel, or a steam locomotive engine you will se that the connecting rod from the base of the piston operates a crosshead, which keeps the piston square in the bore. I would put your camera away, and if it's not using oil, stop worrying and enjoy riding.

Firstly, I admit that I did not see or hear much of the video, But I thought it unusual to have cylinders 1 & 2 sharing a carb, likewise 3 with 4.  Earlier twin cylinder Hondas only shared a carb if they had a 360 degree crank because the intake and exhaust pulses were evenly spaced giving smoother breathing. Bikes like the CB72/77 and the later CB250 K series had twin carbs because they were fitted with 180 degree cranks which give uneven pulses.  The way the video shows the carb fitting means that each carb is supplying a pair of cylinders which are 180 degrees apart.  Many years ago Mick Hand sprinted a 250 supercharged Honda which was catalogued as a CB72, but it had a C72 crank fitted to obtain the regular intake pulses.

I hope you did not take up the slack in the clutch cable while the engine was still hot, I think most of the 4's develop some slack when warmed up.  When it has cooled off the slack disappears, meaning if you had tightened it when hot you could have clutch slip.

Cibie, I always think of Oscar's & Super Oscar driving lights from the Monte Carlo era of Mini Coopers that were disqualified on a lighting  technicality by the French in 1966. No surprise that Citroen ended up winning, BL who were 1,2&3 were disqualified as was the Ford in 4th place.

  Ted, I have a distant memory telling me that at the time, French registered cars had to have yellow headlamps, but the Citroens that won by default were said to have white lights.

I had this happen a couple of times on the 400. I was advised to check the multi-plug supplying the fuse holder. Sure enough, after 40 odd years all the spade connectors inside were a lovely shade of green. Did not take too long with a set of jewellers files to restore them, and no problem since. The person who told me to look there, also mentioned that with the glass fuses, if it fails with the wire broken inside the glass, then that is usually a short.  If it fails because the end cap on the fuse has parted company, as in my case, then that is because it has got hot trying to draw current through the corroded connections. 

Looking at the angle between the front brake cable and the operating arm, I guess it will very soon want re-lining.  Hope it does not reflect on the Spitfie!!!