Honda-SOHC

Finally getting around to putting some rear foot pegs on my 400 four. I know they changed the location of the rear foot pegs on the F2 model but are there physically any differences between the foot pegs or are they the same?

I rebuilt the engine just under 2 years ago so all the seals are pretty much new.

Ted
Is the oil relief valve in the oil pressure switch?

The clutch cable has less than less than 1000 miles on it.

When I rebuilt the engine the balls were fine, they felt smooth and had no corrosion. Next time im in there Ill have a think about replacing them. Is there a part number or size for the ball bearings?

Whats the correct routing for the clutch cable?

There are some mentions of pictures on here but the image links are dead.

How did you set your click bite point?

After re-tightening some gear selector bolts, applying a bit of loctite and an oil service I've been trying to set the clutch, but it's not going my way.

I've followed the steps in the haynes manual but it doesn't feel right. The bite point is slightly different in 1st compared to the other gears. In 1st it's closer to the bars and 2nd-6th its further out.

The bike also seems to rock back and forward when the clutch is held in, there is also resistance when the clutch is held in and I roll the bike backwards. I think this is because the clutch disks are fully separated or area little sticky, it's not been ridden in 4 months but this was also happening before I was investigating the shifting issue.

I've tried setting the screw at the specified 1/4 turn back after feeling resistance and also setting it when I feel the resistance, neither seem to make a difference. In both positions I've also used the adjusters at the clutch lever and at the top of the casing but neither seem to alleviate the rocking.

The more modern bikes (2000s) I've had didnt were easy to set the clutch on.

Is this the expected behaviour? Could anyone give me a dummies guide to setting the clutch? 

After being sat for few months and me not giving it a good enough clean before moth balling it for the winter my 400 four is looking a little dirty and a few spots have appeared on the chrome and exhausts.

What does everyone use for cleaning and them protection?

I initially just used some car shampoo, autosol and AC-50, are they all still a good shout for older bikes?

Has anyone used anything in particular to help reduce speckles of rust on chrome work?

Good morning all!

I'm back at it now and about to go and uncover the bike.

Dolomite, did those adjustments you made solve the problem?

If not, have you had any success?

Yes, they seem to have fixed the issue. I just need to try to find some torque specs for the bolts and add a little bit of loctite. I thought I dod them tight enough when putting the engine together, I don't think any toque specs were listed in the Haynes manual.

Going to have a look for the specs and order some oil, oil filter and a new sump gasket.

Your issue seems like a bit of a freak one. I wonder why it bent.

I spent a few hours investigating the issue today. Drained the oil, took the clutch casing and clutch drum off and also the sump.

I noticed that the bolt circled in red had become loose enough to allow the disc to have some play. I think this then meant that the shift arm in blue wasn't snug up to the pins. It was catching them and then slipping off. Because the bolt was loose I think it also meant that the part behind the disc wasn't straight like it should have been.

I took the disc off and put the bolt back so I could see what was happening and when I held the arm in place it shifted fine. I added the disc back and tested it again and it felt like it was slipping off the pins again. The arm had some stiffness against the disc when it tried to return flush against the pins. This turned out to be because the gear shift shaft had moved out slightly and was putting some pressure on the arm, I pushed the shaft back and it seems to be fine.

What actually holds the gear shift shaft in place? Is it just the gear shifter? Does anything hold it in place on the clutch side?

One other thing to double check. Does the arm held in place by the yellow bolt help shift it that last little bit? When I removed the arm when testing and I would shift I would need to manually rotate the part behind the disc slightly to get it to engage the gears. This gave me a little panic because I was hearing sounds from the gear box I thought that something had become loose inside.

Lastly does anyone know the toque settings for the red and yellow bolts and also the bolts that hold the clutch springs in place? I will also be putting a bit off loctite on them.

Im not sure why the image isnt showing Ive done [img ]http://[\img ] (without the spaces)



https://imgbox.com/ZkK3587b