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Messages - element137
1
« on: April 23, 2026, 07:56:02 AM »
Maybe he's building a bike a piece at a time by nicking bits of yours😀
Johnny Cash wrote that plan in the song 'One piece at a Time ' 
2
« on: April 22, 2026, 02:53:41 PM »
Thanks all for the very informative replies - I trust Honda's engineering ( even if in this case its 50 years old ) so will go with dry fit and correct torque - really appreciate all the input -
3
« on: April 22, 2026, 12:48:37 PM »
These type application are usually assembled dry, just the zinc coating on the components and nothing else as part of their function.
No thread lock ?
4
« on: April 22, 2026, 12:48:13 PM »
Have they got the serrated flange Mick? If so loads available in stainless steel
The OEM nuts are smooth flanged - I did look at using some alternative Stainless Nuts - but they are shallower than the OEM nuts , i.e., the height above the flange to the top of the nut is much higher on OEM ,so less thread would be have been engaged so decided to clean up the OEM bolts and nuts and intend to re-use them - I was curious about the conflicting info about locking tabs or not , and I couldn't find the torque setting anywhere (until it was kindly posted in this thread ( many thanks for that ) -
5
« on: April 21, 2026, 11:56:36 AM »
Actually looking at that service bulletin, it looks like CB350 had the lock tabs - 400 not fitted ?
6
« on: April 21, 2026, 11:54:24 AM »
Try this,
(Attachment Link)
Regards
Dave
Got it - many thanks for that -
7
« on: April 21, 2026, 11:53:52 AM »
Might be worth checking the downloadable Honda workshop manual on this site.
My 400 has lock washers, a paired arrangement iirc.
Thanks - I could not find it in the workshop manual - and I have seen conflicted images reference the lock tab washers - some with - some without ?- not sure if it changed on model years ?
8
« on: April 21, 2026, 07:29:53 AM »
Hi everyone , I have had a look at the Haynes manual, but cant see the torque values for the four bolts/nuts that pass through the front wheel hub and front brake discs, also assume these are thread locked - as standard , there is no retaining tab washers ? ( as per the rear sprocket nuts )
9
« on: April 09, 2026, 07:42:07 AM »
I managed to extract- combination of very careful dremel/drill/ punch to fold it in on itself - there is evidence of damage to the threads in the hub from previous drilling of stakes, but overall the threads cleaned up quite well with a thread file
10
« on: April 08, 2026, 03:38:15 PM »
So after drilling out the staking - used a dremel and drill on the inside edge of the retainer to try and break it free, then used a punch to collapse it on itself and 'peel' it out of the hub
11
« on: April 08, 2026, 03:31:26 PM »
All- thought I would post this up here as it might help someone with similar problem, chewed up and seized front bearing retainer - this is how it started -
12
« on: May 25, 2021, 02:11:44 PM »
Slightly off topic - what front fork/front/brake set - up are you running on that ?
13
« on: May 24, 2021, 11:45:41 AM »
I had problems with aftermarket float valves leaking too - after several attempts, many rounds of tweaking float height, I put the original float valves back in - after ultrasonic cleaning them - polished the ends with a bit of wire wool - no leaks after that - also - worth trying to rig the carbs up so you can test for leaks before fitting back on the bike - I suspended mine over a washing up bowl and filled the float bowls - save you a lot of time if you do get leaks -
14
« on: May 18, 2021, 08:41:02 AM »
Thanks for the comments - Does sound like it is just a blanking screw - It was only once I got both the longer screws out holding the body together that I realised I probably didn't need to extract it at all - all the screws were really badly chewed - I suspect from non JIS screwdriver being used in the past - I had to cut a slot across this little one - and when i finally got it out and saw how short it was assumed it had snapped off - but there was nothing left in the housing - so I expect its just a blank and is not long enough to reach into the throttle tube - as an aside - fitted new throttle cables (after the 'pull' cable snapped ) - and the difference in how the throttle is working is massive - the old cable must have been causing massive drag before it let go and snapped the nipple off ! - a real eye opener as to how much influence the cables have on the feel of the bike -
15
« on: May 18, 2021, 07:36:12 AM »
Does anyone know the part number for the small screw between the throttle cables ( bar end ) on the underside of the body - I had a real job getting this out as the head was chewed up - I have looked at the Honda drawing/parts list but cant see this on the drawing- I have found the part numbers for the longer screws that hold the body together - but this screw has got me stumped - its only about 8mm in length - not even sure what purpose it serves ?- locks the throttle tube in place ?
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