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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
2
« on: October 07, 2026, 04:15:27 PM »
That looks like it was found in the local pond.
3
« on: October 06, 2026, 10:11:25 PM »
The only time that I had a persistent puddle of petrol on the floor, the float was twisted causing it to get stuck somewhere between full and half full. Lay the flat bottoms of the floats on a flat surface and see if they both sit level.
The other possibility is crud from the tank or debris flaking off on the inside of the (if its old) fuel pipe getting lodged in the float needles. Pay attention to any sediment in the float bowl when you take it off.
When filling rebuilt carbs for the first time, a gentle tap on the offending bowl with a screwdriver handle can sometimes get the floats floating again.
Regards
Dave
4
« on: October 03, 2026, 12:55:37 PM »
Also a health battery just needing charge is going to pull more current for the same voltage compared to a charged battery.
Since playing around with the adjustment on my regulator, it's straight up to 14 on a fast idle and topping out at 14.8 going down the Road Idling at traffic lights it drops down to 12.8 with the headlight on and about 13.5 with it off. Soon back up once the revs get up to 2 1/2
Much better than before adjustment where it was dropping below 12 in urban traffic with the headlight on.
Regards
Dave
5
« on: October 02, 2026, 03:33:22 PM »
Thanks for that.
I am reasonably sure the grounds are ok. I have the green cable from the field coil going into a 3 way WAGO. Also going in to this WAGO is the green cable from the reg/rec, and coming out of this, connected to a chassis ground is another green cable. Checked for continuity and all good.
Wago connector - clamped on the wire and not the insulation ?
6
« on: October 02, 2026, 03:31:46 PM »
Do you have a multimeter to measure resistance and voltage
Warning, actually note the resistance measurement, don't rely on the beeper as they sometimes beep indicating a connection not necessarily a good one.
The connector that goes down to the alternator unplugged would originally have connected to the OEM regulator, ignition off.
Measure between each of the 3 yellow wires, 1-2 2-3 3-1 doesn't matter which ones, should be around half an ohm, the corresponding shop manual should tell you the exact value. Main point is they should be very close to each other. Any more than that value or differences between them, suspect a grubby connector between that plug and the alternator windings.
From the white wire which is probably connected to the new unit now , measure to ground you should see about 5 ohm, significantly more than that suspect a grubby connection between there and the field coil including the green which is the return to ground.
The grubby connectors may be hidden behind the front sprocket cover.
The red or red/White wire should go back to battery +ve. Not to the starter motor side of the starter solenoid.
If they look ok then Voltage measurements with engine idling
Meter on DC voltage
Battery voltage on black wire
Close to battery voltage on white wire going to alternator field coil, should reduce as the revs increase.
Zero voltage on the green wire going to the field coil
Switch meter to AC voltage, measure between each of the yellow wires going down to the alternator, anywhere between 25 and 40v AC depending on load.
A quick check if the field coil is energized, try sticking a small 10ml spanner to the honda logo on the alternator cover, you should feel it pulling the spanner as you pull it away.
Regards
Dave
7
« on: October 02, 2026, 01:01:19 PM »
No spiders, I had one set up home in my Speedo when it was off the bike.
How about a match stick, a couple of inches of thread with a couple of greenfly on the end. Then dangle it near the hole and wait.
Best outcome is if it expires, falls to the bottom and gets captured by some stray grease.
Regards
Dave
8
« on: October 01, 2026, 12:23:10 PM »
Is the green cable properly grounded, check continuity to chassis or battery -ve. Alternatively check for zero voltage between the Reg/Reg green wire and ground with the engine running.
You may have a green wire between field coil and new Reg/Rec but both need to be grounded somewhere. The original rectifier was bolted to chassis to pick up ground and also provided ground to the green wire.
Regards
Dave
9
« on: September 27, 2026, 06:53:51 PM »
The ones that I have are EBC and they still start to squeak a little after about 500ml Previous ones were from DSS bought in the mid 90s squealed like a stuck pig.
I have the nylon ring still in there, makes no difference, just makes the braking effect a little more progressive. What makes a difference is cleaning out all the corrosion in the groove that the seal occupies, not just gunk or bits of old seal, the corroded aluminum crust. Failure to keep this groove clean makes the piston tight and it doesn't retract properly or enough. With the front wheel off the ground it should spin easily with one finger with minimal rubbing sound of the pad on the disc.
Regards
Dave
10
« on: September 26, 2026, 07:52:49 PM »
The pads are glazed.
Put some medium grit sandpaper on a flat surface, rub each pad on that until the shine has been removed.
When you reassemble,make sure that the pads aren't dragging on the disk. That seems to glaze the pads more quicky.
Seems to happen to me more often using modern pads
Regards
Dave
11
« on: September 23, 2026, 07:34:42 PM »
It seems relatively easy to get a rubber boat and sneak back
12
« on: September 22, 2026, 11:33:34 AM »
Something like plastidip, comes in a tin, just dip the thing in, allow the excess to drip off and wait for it to cure.
Difficult to justify a tin full of the stuff unless you have enough things to do, eg. Tool handles.
Regards
Dave.
13
« on: September 21, 2026, 07:53:44 PM »
That's how government budgets work. Spend under budget they claw the surplus back and give you less the following year.
It was always prudent to have quotes in hand come January and sniff out other departments with an under spend to get things that you needed.
14
« on: September 21, 2026, 06:51:11 PM »
Quite normal in government.
The amount of stuff that is just thrown away because it was a risk selling it and no one had the time anyway. I worked in various labs during my career, and being a habitual hoarder, I kept stuff hidden that might be useful or a parts donor. My boss twigged onto this and made me thin out my hoard on a regular basis because storage space costs money. We pretty much worked on a 7 year write off so something that cost £25k new was zero value after that time.
I was pushing 15 year old bits of kit out into the field when things got busy or desperate. No thanks for saving the day - why are you spending time fixing old equipment? The younger generation don't push back against this and just go with the flow and keep their heads down to preserve their favourable annual review.
The skips on site were a gold mine.
Regards
Dave
15
« on: September 21, 2026, 02:43:45 PM »
I think the OEM clip had a black vinyl dip coating, My one disintegrated long ago.
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