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Messages - ColinHH
1
« on: September 16, 2024, 01:40:38 PM »
Sorry FALSE ALARM! I had the ignition switch off, tested the solenoid and then had a sit down and think. Which is always a good idea. Then it hit me. The bike was on centre stand and I was rotating the rear wheel to confirm it was in neutral BUT it was in false neutral i.e. between 2nd and 3rd. It’s not always as complicated as you think 
2
« on: September 16, 2024, 12:37:00 PM »
Either a very strange coincidence, but I put my battery on charge overnight with the battery in Situ. This morning battery is fully charged and bike started. However, on the 2nd attempt at starting I am getting lights and horn but no Ignition power, no oil light or neutral indicator coming on. Fuses are all good, connections to ignition switch are good so am at a loss as to what has happened. Any suggestions?
Thanks
3
« on: August 22, 2024, 05:12:53 PM »
Quite pleased with results.
4
« on: August 20, 2024, 03:49:31 PM »
Hi, It’s me again! My piston, seal and pads have arrived for me to rebuild my caliper and I thought I might as well paint it whilst it is off. There were quite a few areas where the original paint had worn off. So I have stripped the paint off with paint stripper and have the caliper paint ready, which apparently doesn’t need a primer. My question is, do I need to “roughen up†the surface with wire wool or sand paper to give the paint something to bind to? The original paint came off quite easily with a tooth brush having left it to soak in the paint stripper for a few hours, so the current surface is as it was.
5
« on: August 18, 2024, 09:58:54 AM »
Whenever I swing my leg over the saddle, I go through a mental routine! i.e. I am on a 50 year old bike, and not my 2018 BMW, allow for a longer stopping distance, use the front and rear brake appropriately together with the gearbox to slow the bike down, Don’t expect it to stop! And I will mentally keep reminding myself during the ride.
6
« on: August 17, 2024, 08:34:26 AM »
I have written up a service schedule, largely based on the factory workshop manual. I'm going to add in giving the pivot a clean and re-grease every 2 years.
It is quite a vulnerable location, so im surprised this isn't observed more often.
Good Idea Martin, Is this service schedule something that you could share?
7
« on: August 16, 2024, 07:55:05 AM »
Thanks all. I will certainly remove the pivot pin and follow the same procedure when I rebuild the caliper once the parts arrive from CMSL. But the difference that my temporary fix has made is amazing. Since getting the bike I have really struggled to move it around the garage as it seemed soooo heavy, and I have put about 1,000 miles on it, I’m pretty sure that all that time it has been dragging on that static pad. Took it out for a run yesterday and the difference was significant. I can also move it around the garage with ease. All because of a gummed up pivot pin!
8
« on: August 15, 2024, 02:37:39 PM »
Thanks Ted. Will do as you suggested when I take it to pieces again when fitting the new Piston, seal and pads.
9
« on: August 15, 2024, 01:09:37 PM »
Haha! I just read the response regarding the pivot arm just after I got back from the garage looking at exactly that. The arm wasn’t pushing the fixed pad back. So I used some WD40 on the pivot and put a small spacer between the spring and swing arm. Problem solved! I have already ordered the new piston, seal and pads so won’t do any harm to replace them anyway.
10
« on: August 15, 2024, 10:39:45 AM »
Thanks, new seal and piston just ordered. Another thing worth mentioning is that the “static†pad (The one that is held by the clip on the inside of the disc) is virtually worn down to nothing but the moving pad (the one which gets pushed by the piston) is hardly worn at all!
11
« on: August 15, 2024, 09:12:43 AM »
Sorry, but you can probably tell that I am doing quite a bit of work on my K4 at the moment and thanks to this group I am gradually getting through it. Electrics done, front fork oil seals done and now looking at the front brake caliper.
My first question is, how freely should the front wheel spin when brake not being applied? With the pads depressed and the back pad adjusted with the swing arm screw, so that it is just off the rotor, the wheel free wheels and will turn 3 or 4 revolutions before it stops. However I then pull the brake lever and obviously the brakes engage and the wheel stops really well, but once I release the brake lever the wheel won’t free wheel and whilst I can turn it the pads are binding. I think this is why it has been so difficult to move it around in the garage. I took the caliper apart and there is some pitting on the piston! I cleaned everything and very lightly used some wire wool to clean around the metal edges of the pads. It still binds. So is this normal or do I need to get a new piston and seal or is there anything else that I should be looking at? Thanks.
12
« on: August 13, 2024, 06:55:10 PM »
Finally done it! Once I got the first damper out and could see the small bar going across the middle of the tube it was easy to see what needs to go onto the end of the brush handle. Actually I ended up using an extension on a flat head screwdriver and it came off easily. I must remember to undo that bolt before I do anything else next time.
13
« on: August 13, 2024, 12:34:28 PM »
I can’t work this broom handle thing out. What exactly do you do? I have pushed a broom handle down the fork and I can feel the damper turning when I try to undo the bolt, but can’t get enough friction on the brush handle to stop it from spinning. So tried putting a couple of panel pins in but they don’t grip onto anything to stop it from turning.
14
« on: August 12, 2024, 08:02:22 PM »
I tried putting the spring back in, but no joy. Will try the broom handle and panel pins tomorrow. If that fail then I will drill them out and replace the bolts.
15
« on: August 12, 2024, 05:55:58 PM »
I am putting new front fork boots on because the original ones had split, so also decided to change the oil seals whilst I had the forks off anyway. However, I am having a big problem in removing the lower allen bolt that holds the damper in. The first one I tried was so tight that I was concerned that I might strip it. Eventually after using a long tube to get some more leverage it finally started to turn. But now that is all it does. So the damper is obviously spinning in the tube. I think there is a special tool that you can buy, but want to avoid that if possible as I want to try and get it back on the road this weekend. So any suggestions or tricks as to how to get the bolt out? I have tried putting the spring back in but that doesn’t put enough pressure on the damper to stop it from turning. I haven’t tried the second one yet, just in case I have done something wrong with the first one.
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