This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - alexdecker
1
« on: September 16, 2025, 10:37:41 AM »
Hey Ted!
Did a search but can't find that thread! Is it on here or somewhere else?
- Alex
2
« on: September 12, 2025, 08:08:21 AM »
Thanks for all the replies guys!
The carbs does have a "push" cable, and when I reverse throttle, the carb closes all the way. Also when I push the brass caps, the carb closes all the way. Also, I hope its not the shaft and bushings. This is a fairly new problem, and last season, the carbs closed fine (after I restored them), but this season all of a sudden they are hanging a bit.
I will test the spring as Oddjob is suggesting and go from there. Update will follow.
3
« on: September 11, 2025, 05:35:05 PM »
Did you re-synchronize the carbs with the idle adjustment screw turned in a lot? This will affect the carbs returning to the stop screw when the spring return doesn't have enough snap to go into the over ride.
I didn't, and it sits in a really nice spot. Wish it was that simple though - would make for less of a headache 
4
« on: September 11, 2025, 05:34:17 PM »
More likely the shaft is tight in the bushings
Can you put a few more words on it? Was looking at the parts lists on CMS, but not completely sure what parts you are talking about.
5
« on: September 11, 2025, 01:13:51 PM »
Hey all
I got a throttle that is not returning fully. I inspected cables, throttle pipe etc. all with no problems. When I disconnect the cables from the carb, the carb still doesn't return fully to the idle screw stop. This makes me think that the return spring is the problem. If I open the throttle fully, it will snap fully back. But if I only open it 1/3, it will not snap all the way back.
My question is: Is there anything else that could cause this? Is there some screw I can have tightened too much in the carb rebuild, that will hinder the spring in doing its work? Could something else bind, or maybe a third thing? Most people on the forums says that its very unlikely that the spring is faulty. Although it does seem like that would be the exact problem in this case, I just wanna make sure there is nothing else Im missing, before I go looking for a replacement.
- Alex
6
« on: February 10, 2025, 05:50:49 AM »
Thats a US style tail light bracket so could be the big US style light, cant tell properly from that angle, does it look like the attached pic from the back?
Weird, the bike is European. But the tail light does look like the image you attached!
7
« on: February 10, 2025, 05:50:09 AM »
Hey all Somebody locally to me took apart a CB650 and is selling it for parts. He is selling a complete front end. This has dual brakes. Would I be able to fit this directly on my CB550F2 from 1977? I heard that many of the parts on these two bikes are interchangeable, but not sure to what extent. See the ad here with images: https://www.dba.dk/recommerce/forsale/item/3336960Also, he is selling this indicator housing: https://www.dba.dk/recommerce/forsale/item/3191072 From the pictures it is looking identical to my (broken) housing on the CB550. Would I be able to fit this as a direct replacement? Thanks! - Alex
8
« on: February 07, 2025, 11:18:39 AM »
I have a picture of it here!
9
« on: February 06, 2025, 05:06:52 PM »
Its the original tail light, but the rear fender has rusted so bad and has holes in it because if it, and the tail light doesn't look good either, so wanted to get a new rear fender and then fit a smaller tail light on there if possible…
- Alex
10
« on: February 06, 2025, 05:27:09 AM »
Hey all
Does anyone know of a smaller tail light, that will fit the existing mounting point on the original fender (three or four holed) and has an OEM look?
I am replacing my old worn rear fender, and wanted to replace the tail light as well. I want an OEM look, but always found the whole rear end of a CB-XXX bike weirdly over dimensioned.
I am riding a CB550 F2 from 1977.
Thanks for any tips you can give me!
- Alex
11
« on: April 08, 2024, 10:05:01 AM »
Bring the engine to Gloucester and i will do it, buy and ultrasonic cleaner and do the carbs yourself with an O ring kit from Nurse Julie and DO NOT replace any of the brass in the carbs with "kits" as most kits are wrong nowadays.
If not kits, then single pieces from sources like CMS and DSS, or do you have any alternative for good sources?
12
« on: April 08, 2024, 04:52:32 AM »
Thanks all for your replies! I am based in Copenhagen, Denmark, so will try and find a local guy who can help me with this.
And thanks for the string method! I will do that as well, even though it doesn’t have something to do with the uneven brake feel 😊
The brake flutter is only slightly when I am driving slow and applying the brakes. Can it be that it just needs to be seated a little but more, and will disappear over time, or should I have this taken care of?
13
« on: April 07, 2024, 07:41:46 PM »
The inside doesn’t look cracked at all though. I have this picture.
14
« on: April 07, 2024, 06:16:13 PM »
The "jitter" is nothing to do with alignment but either oval or corroded drum, you dont say what bike it is, very frustrating and i dont care if its in the header, shouldnt need to read that!
Sorry, it’s a CB550F2 from 1977!
15
« on: April 07, 2024, 03:42:17 PM »
Hey all
What is the best method to align the rear wheel on the frame, if you don't have any special tools available? Obviously I can use the marks on the frame, but is there a way to dial it all the way in? I feel a little jitter in the pedal of my rear brake, and I think it might be because of poor alignment.
I aligned the rear wheel according to the marks on the frame. Then I finger tightened the nuts. I then activated the rear brake and while holding down the brake, I tightened the nuts down.
What do you guys do?
|
Show Posts