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Messages - alexdecker
1
« on: August 20, 2026, 01:30:20 PM »
Phew, lotta heat in here  Thanks for the input on my bike, I really appreciate it! - Alex
2
« on: August 17, 2026, 06:00:04 PM »
Damn 143000 km. I think mine have gone around 83000. I actually thought that was in the higher end, and maybe the engine was reaching its end. I did a big engine job three years back, changing the shells on the crankshaft and rods, new sealings, new primary chain, top end rebuild, honing, new piston+rings etc.
How much life is normal to get out of these bikes?
- Alex
3
« on: August 17, 2026, 11:29:19 AM »
When I am out on my 400, the expresion ride it like you stole it springs to mind.
It's like a video game, going through the gears, keeping the revs up to be on song.
Interesting, I actually have a tendency to shift up all the time. For instance, shift up to 4th gear at around 60 km ph. I guess I should run 3rd gear a little longer then! Do you have a set RPM you usually shift at?
4
« on: August 17, 2026, 06:57:28 AM »
It's fine now. Go for a ride, in town, minor roads and highway. Have it run at a maintained 6000 rpm or higher for some time to burn of all the carbon caused by all this idling. You'll be surprised.
Ah, interesting! Theoretically, what can happen with the build up of carbon? I never really thought about that (like so many other things obviously)…
6
« on: August 15, 2026, 08:10:31 PM »
Oh my god, Deltarider was right on the money! Rechecked everything and was slowly going insane. After reading his comment, I was like "surely that can't be it". Went down, one of the wires on the second point had slightly moved towards the plate and was making the tiniest of contact. Cleared it, started the bike, and it went ahead and puuuuuurred like a kitten (albeit a kitten who needed a vacuum sync), firing on all four again.
Shit, these old bikes. It can be anything, but sometimes it's just the tiniest stupidest of things.
We are back! I vacuum-synced it today. Will be back with an idle video tomorrow and ask for comparison with the old one. To my ears, it sounds beautiful now. Also it revs so cleanly.
- Alex
7
« on: August 15, 2026, 11:40:10 AM »
Okay, this story is slowly unfolding to a grim nightmare. Got the boots fixed on all 4 intakes and exhausts, but now 2 & 3 are not firing at all. Here is what I have done so far: - When I had the carburetor out, I cleaned it, before putting it in with new boots (just carb cleaner, but had the top lid off and the float bowls)
- I replaced the points with new original Honda points
- I then set cam chain, valves (kept them to the looser side of around 0,08 mm intake and 0.1 mm exhaust). I then set timing.
Measured the coils and they measure a 3.2 ohm resistance each. The points are getting power. The timing is dead on. I got spark on all the plugs. What on earth could cause 2 & 3 to just set out all of a sudden? - Alex
8
« on: August 10, 2026, 03:48:20 PM »
I've used the right boots for the intake. They are easy to differentiate, as they have the lips that go into the airbox. Unfortunately I can't measure them up against the old ones, as I chucked them when the new ones was installed in a pre-mature celebratory moment of relief of finally having done this task, as un- and reinstalling the carbs is such a pita! 🙁
11
« on: August 08, 2026, 02:16:48 PM »
Hey all
So before the idling video, I had just replaced all the carb boots. I just discovered today that the intake boot on cylinder 3 was not seated properly. This might also be why the idle has a little swing.
Now, I cannot for the life of me get this boot to sit properly. It won't go over the carb, no matter how much I try. Its like its a tiny bit too short. These new boots are always so stiff and hard to handle. Any advice on how to drag it properly over the carb? It sits fine in the airbox, and the other boots seem to sit fine as well.
- Alex
12
« on: August 05, 2026, 09:42:05 AM »
400 only Ted, 500/550 different shape. I only know of one supplier and he won't post to the UK.
Will he ship to Europe though? I’m located in Denmark 😊
13
« on: August 03, 2026, 11:10:55 AM »
Thanks all for the replies!
I just switched all the boots on both sides of the carb and this was the first time I ran it. I noticed small swings in the idle, but wanted to know how this was as a baseline. I will probably do a complete maintenance with cam chain, valve adjustment, timing and vacuum sync. Just figured I might not need it if it was only the boots I had changed.
An idle that goes up and down, is that also a vacuum sync, or is that something more severe like an air leak?
I actually hadn't thought about any strange knocking noises. The primary chain is new, but whenever it idles and I don't have the clutch lever pulled, it always rattle a little more. Just figured that was the nature of the beast. But with your comments here, I might have to look into the clutch plates or springs or anything else?
- Alex
15
« on: May 30, 2026, 02:42:48 PM »
The return spring on those carbs is very strong, too strong, some would say. Remove the spring and move the butterfly by hand, if smooth it’s the spring if not then it’s something like a bent needle for instance
How smooth is it supposed to be? With the spring off, I can move it up and down manually, and it doesn't seem like it is hitting any resistance, but it's not like it's feather lite either. Just with a normal amount of resistance I guess. With the spring on, I can still move it just with my fingers, which makes me think that I might actually have a weak spring? - Alex
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