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Messages - cbxman
1
« on: July 11, 2024, 08:01:45 PM »
Martin6, yes agree the full advance position is more important in reality.
Essentially controlling fuel burn at maximum duress and load is much more important than idle control.
Retarded position is just to facilitate easy starting and tickover speed control by retracted timing for convenience really.
Can't really see a problem with early advanced curve though, assuming no pinking, as it will improve engine torque generally if you can get it advanced as soon as possible.
I dont know why there's advice floating around to delay the advance curve by shorter springs, seems undesirable to me. Competent control of retard to ensure even tickover, yes. But other than that there's no reason to restrain in reality.
Ideally, whichever method of initial setup, then maximum advance should be checked and verified as correct as good general practice.
I did the cut and shut trick on my 750 advancer. It was a little sloppy, so I put it in my pillar drill and put the tachometer on it. I marked the bob weights with white paint and ran it up to find that it advanced too early. I cut the spring loops as described in 'the other place' and ran the test again. Full advance 2500rpm. It was simple to do, but when you have only one shot at it, or mess it up and have to find another advancer.....not so easy for most of us. So it does work, but there is likely some variability between old advancer springs.. I think it is possible to do one spring, but that might give you a two stage advance curve. Probably wouldn't be noticeable I suspect. Have fun! Cheers, Jerry
2
« on: May 11, 2024, 10:13:59 AM »
Ash,
Floplast do an MEK pot with brush to fit their plastic pipe stuff together. Get it B&Q I used some spare I had recently to repair a plastic door hook. Keep the top on tight...it evaporates really quickly.
Jerry
3
« on: May 11, 2024, 09:57:35 AM »
Clutch lever switch came with a diode as well in the CB360T, which has only arrived here from imports.
The UK had the 360G version, which does not have a mount point for the clutch switch. It does have the spare wires though and no diode.
I bought a clutch switch when I found the wires in my bike and I had a diode from a spare CB550 harness, but when I found there was no hole for the switch and checked the diagrams....No clutch switch....so your spare wires are just that...
Relax,
Jerry
4
« on: May 07, 2024, 07:22:34 PM »
That spring goes between the two throttle plate levers providing thrust to keep the butterflies in the right position. It needs to be there to prevent wear on the carb throat from the butterflies.
The diaphragms are supposed to be pulled out of the rings. I have not done it, but I believe that copious amounts of lubricant be used to ease the old ones out and the new ones in..
Good luck
Jerry
5
« on: May 02, 2024, 09:39:29 AM »
I used their search. "exhaust" and found a 750 with crazy pipes on....
6
« on: April 28, 2024, 09:15:21 AM »
Done
8
« on: April 02, 2024, 07:08:57 PM »
Ive never been 100% happy with the Boyer its very voltage sensitive so I need to keep the bike on a trickle charge. Id like to go back to points to compare.
Hi have Dyna on my CB750 K1. It was very unstable and would misfire sometimes and this I understand was a common issue with these. The installation instructions specified connecting the Dyna +12v Feed onto the ignition switched 12v leads on the coils. However I found through experimentation that the 12v ignition feed that is accessible under the seat (for indicators etc. was a better place to connect. It runs without any issues now Unsurprisingly really as the voltage spikes on the 12v coil terminal would play havoc with the Dyna. Worth a try before you bin the Boyer.
9
« on: March 01, 2024, 10:48:00 AM »
Thanks Ash.
Noted.
10
« on: March 01, 2024, 09:17:45 AM »
Well done.
I was given a 3D printer last year for my 70th. Still experimenting and made many of the downloadable parts from Thingiverse. Now started using "Blender" a free 3D design software. Very good but steep learning curve with a good community and help files. I have managed to make a range of cylindrical volume knobs in PLA...no good for strength though, so now trying PETG. I was given a reel of TPU which is soft and might be good for things like side cover grommets. I am still playing around at the moment.
Is there a way we could build a list of .STL files for bike specific parts?
Grandad...can you make me one of those snakes pleeeeese?
Doh!
Jerry
11
« on: January 02, 2024, 06:07:29 PM »
My two pence worth.
I use a hair dryer to warm the handlebar and the PVC becomes softer and manageable, particularly in this weather! The wires just pushes through quite easily even old brittle stuff. Not too much though!!!!
12
« on: December 10, 2023, 10:12:45 AM »
Ken,
Are you willing to part with it? If so please pm me.
Cheers,
Jerry
13
« on: December 08, 2023, 07:54:14 PM »
Ken,
Thank you for the links. I was getting excited until I saw the shipping from Japan...Ha Ha!
If you spot another one please let me know.
Cheers,
Jerry
14
« on: December 08, 2023, 04:31:46 PM »
My CB1300 has 2 ball bearings on the O/S but a long needle roller on the N/S, possibly because it will withstand the pull of the drive chain better.. Oddly enough it's not the bearing that starts to fail but the tophat bush that runs inside the needle roller. Due to lack of assembly grease no doubt, mine got an advisory on it's first MOT for swinging arm play.
Ken, Thanks for the heads-up. My CB1300 A5 has only done 20k but I'll check the S/A when I have it up on the Abba Stand (no centre stand on mine wtf!) I guess the CBX was one of the first bikes to exceed 100hp, so I guess they figured it needed to be beefed up. the 1300 is real grunt bucket, where's my grease gun! Cheers, Jerry
15
« on: December 08, 2023, 09:33:34 AM »
Yes it would if it needed one, especially if i was doing it! Any play is too much as far as im concered.
I did say that the pin would need drilling for 450/500 bolt.
I dont like needle rollers in that situation as the angle movement is not a lot so needles dont actualy roll, same with taper roller headstock bearings, they indent just as bad as the balls but are easier to assemble
Bryan, The angular movement of the S/A is small...just a few degrees, so I sort of agree with you. However it is common practice from I have seem for more modern bikes. The CBX1000 Z (1978/79) model has plastic bushes and they were replaced by a large needle bearing on the chain side and opposed biased ball bearings on the right hand side to locate the S/A this development is proudly boasted in the "A" 1980 brochure. The idea being that the wide/long needles could bear the load better than a ball bearing with point contacts carrying the thrust. It seems it is common practice now. The is the drawing from the 1980 CBX brochure
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